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cougar cub posted:Which puzzle toy? Haven't been able to find a great one for my pup. It's this semi-translucent little ball divided in two. You put treats in the hold in the top, and if the ball is shaken enough the treats will fall through the divider to the bottom. The holes are shaped so that the treats won't fall out easily, but if the dog bats it around enough they can get the treats to fall out. Nina loves the thing to pieces, but she mastered it pretty quickly.
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Sep 14, 2016 02:54
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I keep seeing a clicker mentioned for training. I assume you all would recommend it? I've had tons of success with treat pellets, but I'd be willing to give one a try.
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Sep 14, 2016 14:26
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The clicker is used in conjunction with food most of the time. It doesn't replace it. Here's an article and a bunch of links to get you started, if you're interested: http://www.clickertraining.com/whatis Clicker training is awesome.
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Sep 14, 2016 14:41
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Warbird posted:I keep seeing a clicker mentioned for training. I assume you all would recommend it? I've had tons of success with treat pellets, but I'd be willing to give one a try. The clicker makes treat training easier by buying you a bit of time. You associate the treat with the click, so when the dog hears the click they know they're getting a treat.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:17
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Ive been wondering, can you use a toy as a clicker reward instead of a treat? My puppy likes tennis balls more than food I think.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:33
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Yep. Ideally you want a dog who will work for both toys and food. I think food is an easier point of entry, since it's easier to control. But the click is simply a precise marker to communicate to your dog "yes, that think you just did has earned you a reward". Clicker training:  Dog hadoken. Hadogeken.
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Sep 14, 2016 16:38
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ImplicitAssembler posted:Get some help. 2 would be ideal. One person to hold the dog (cradle it's neck/chest), 1 person with a clicker and a bunch of awesome treats, 1 person with the nail trimmer. Fingers crossed this works for you. My shiba was obsessed with food but wouldn't take even a spoonful of PB when it was nail trimming time(either at my work at the grooming station or at home), and she wasn't even bad about nail trimming. It's definitely worth a shot though. Viola the Mad posted:It's this semi-translucent little ball divided in two. You put treats in the hold in the top, and if the ball is shaken enough the treats will fall through the divider to the bottom. The holes are shaped so that the treats won't fall out easily, but if the dog bats it around enough they can get the treats to fall out. Nina loves the thing to pieces, but she mastered it pretty quickly. I forget the name of it but I know the one you're talking about. You might want to try to cube one I posted in my last post if they've mastered it. It's a bit tougher for them. Warbird posted:I keep seeing a clicker mentioned for training. I assume you all would recommend it? I've had tons of success with treat pellets, but I'd be willing to give one a try. Clickers are excellent training tools and are like 2 bucks for one at your local petsmart/co. They act as a precise marker to tell your dog "yep that was what I wanted", which makes duplicating and reinforcing behavior faster in many people's experiences. I recommend checking out kikopup's youtube channel, she has a lot of videos on clicker based training. There's a bit of a learning curve with timing but once you get it down, you're golden. Carmant posted:Ive been wondering, can you use a toy as a clicker reward instead of a treat? My puppy likes tennis balls more than food I think. Ausrotten can give you a ton of words on this as her GSD is way more toy motivated than food motivated, but in short, yes. Whatever your dog finds rewarding is a reward.
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Sep 14, 2016 19:02
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I struggled with clipping my dogs nails (a 1 year old vizsla), usually having to wait until he was passed out to do it. Last night I positioned him upside down to lay in my legs belly up. He fell asleep and started snoring within a few minutes in which case I started clipping his nails. Half the battle of clipping his nails is him pulling away his foot as soon as I touch it. With him on his back and not resting his weight on his feet, he allows me to touch his feet more willingly without pulling back than when he's on his stomach. I'm going to slowly start progressing with treats until he lets me cut them while awake and is happy to have them trimmed. On a side note, I'm working with him to become a decent bird dog. I plan to hunt upland birds (pheasant/quail/grouse) but I didn't want to spend a poo poo ton of money having him trained when I'll realistically hunt him a few times per year. He's been doing incredibly well lately and picking up new commands insanely fast. His points have always been pretty good from the get go. He figured out left and right hand signal directions and the zig zag pattern in a day or two. Woah is slowly getting there but its improving. Fetch has been the most difficult thing to teach as he's not super keen on retrieving but its improving day by day. Its absolutely incredible to watch dogs do what they were bred and taught to do. Even if you don't hunt, the training is great and giving them a job to do challenges both their brain and body.
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Sep 15, 2016 03:11
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Bought clicker for dog. Dog is terrified if the clicker's sound. Business as usual.
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Sep 15, 2016 04:38
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Warbird posted:Bought clicker for dog. Dog is terrified if the clicker's sound. Business as usual. You can use any sound for the click cue, but you want something you can say fast then. I say yes!, some people say good! Some people have tried the button tops from a glass juice bottle cuz it's a softer click which sometimes helps. The basic principle of clicker training can apply to any sound. you can even cluck your own tongue.
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Sep 15, 2016 06:46
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Warbird posted:Bought clicker for dog. Dog is terrified if the clicker's sound. Business as usual. I've often seen it advised to put a bit of tape on or in the clicker to soften the sound, I'd mess around with that.
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Sep 15, 2016 10:23
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One little question - just how poisonous is chocolate to dogs? I get that it's something you absolutely do not want to deliberately feed to them, but in terms of accidental ingestion, how much will likely result in trouble? A square of a chocolate bar? A few crumbs of cake?
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Sep 15, 2016 11:16
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It depends on the actual chocolate content, and the size of the dog. Dark chocolate is more dangerous than milk chocolate, too. Crumbs of cake wouldn't make me worry. A square of a dark chocolate bar might warrant contacting a vet.
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Sep 15, 2016 12:39
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Darth Walrus posted:One little question - just how poisonous is chocolate to dogs? I get that it's something you absolutely do not want to deliberately feed to them, but in terms of accidental ingestion, how much will likely result in trouble? A square of a chocolate bar? A few crumbs of cake? a few years ago someone was house sitting for me and baked me cookies as I was coming home that day. The stupid Hound dog jumped up on the counter and ate the whole plate. Chocolate isnt good for dogs and like the HaDogken trainer mentioned the darker the chocolate the worse it is. This is a decent "oh gently caress my dog ate chocolate" chart http://www.petmd.com/dog/chocolate-toxicity My dog was fine but my dog also weighs a metric fuckton.
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Sep 15, 2016 13:37
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Hey guys, I have a 10 month old puppy named Olivia. I've been taking her out for walks every day to try to get her to socialize more and to get her to burn off some energy for the day. The problem is whenever I'm walking, she'll start barking at random people, especially children. Before you ask, half of the people she barks at, don't make any sudden moves at all or do anything to startle her. I even saw her walk up to a guy who was just standing to the side texting. She sat there until he looked at her, then started barking at him until I pulled her away. She hasn't attacked or bitten anyone at all, just barks at them and nothing else. I can't see her being aggressive to other people or dogs at all. I even witnessed her try to play with a dog that was snarling and snapping at her, with teeth bared. I literally had to pull her away on the leash because she kept trying to play with those dogs despite their aggressive behavior. In short, I have a dog that likes to play with people and other dogs but barks at completely random people when I take her for a walk. It's usually 49/60 odds whether she'll bark at them or not. If anyone has any advice for how to deal with this problem, I'd be happy to take it because considering her personality, I'd think she'd be a great match for children.
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Sep 15, 2016 18:01
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Anecdotal but my dog is a twat and I'm an idiot, left milk chocolate where she could get it to go answer the door. Came back to a guilty dog. Was about 150g bat of galaxy, 16kg dog, she had zero reaction to having eaten it. My sister's greyhound got into a kg sack of hours Tobermory cocoa, ate the lot and also had zero reaction. But then he also used to steal packs of butter and mine loves to raid handbags for polos so ymmv. Don't experiment though!
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Sep 15, 2016 18:04
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My sisters beagle got into my bag once when I flew there to stay a few days. He ate a king size snickers bar, a bag of Italian gardettos, and a York peppermint patty or two. He was fine aside from some gas. He also would headbutt the bathroom door hard enough to open it. So maybe he wasn't fine. On a separate occasion he also broke into his food and ate himself sick. They had to go to the vet and have it surgically removed. Beagles am I right?
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Sep 15, 2016 19:10
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Verman posted:Beagles am I right? We had a (seriously) mentally, uh, deficient beagle when I was a teenager. He once ate a DOZEN chocolate cupcakes off the counter, including at least a few plastic rings set in the tops-they had Barbie or something on them, for kids. He was, against all odds, completely fine.
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Sep 15, 2016 21:41
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Beagles a best.
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Sep 15, 2016 22:06
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Does anyone use food grade diatomaceous earth for their dogs as a daily edible supplement?
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Sep 15, 2016 22:42
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That sounds like something you need to dilute 100 parts before you give if to the pooch lest they starve.
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Sep 15, 2016 23:08
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Anyone have an recommendations for puzzle toys for dogs? My aussie tore through the two I got her the other day in a matter of seconds and I think I need something more challenging than "spin top around to get food".
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Sep 16, 2016 13:56
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FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:Anyone have an recommendations for puzzle toys for dogs? My aussie tore through the two I got her the other day in a matter of seconds and I think I need something more challenging than "spin top around to get food". I like Nina Ottosson's stuff. She has a bunch of different kinds and some of the aussie owners I work with swear by them. http://www.nina-ottosson.com/
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Sep 16, 2016 21:58
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porkswordonboard posted:I like Nina Ottosson's stuff. She has a bunch of different kinds and some of the aussie owners I work with swear by them. Thanks, I went ahead and ordered a sliding one from amazon from her. Another question, I recently moved into a first floor apartment and my 7 month of puppy goes CRAZY over another dog that passes by. She rushes to the window and starts jumping up and down and barking at them. I assume she wants to meet them and is getting frustrated that she cant, is there a good way to help train her away from this? I ordered some of those vinyl window stickers to cover the bottom portions of the windows so she cant see out to hopefully minimize it. I've also been getting in front of her when she starts and make her sit as well as doing a "look at me" command and then rewarding her when she calms down and doesn't jump or fidget around. I assume some of this is her being a puppy and wanting to meet other dogs and the majority of it me.
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Sep 18, 2016 14:57
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So puppy training is going pretty well, he's still not a great walker but we are working on it and he knows the basic commands (he's very treat oriented so it helps). The only problem I'm really having with the puppy is sometimes he has accidents (pee in the house). This seems to happen no matter what, even if he's just been outside to pee. We have started the if you pee outside you get a treat thing and it's kind of working but he still pees in the house. It might just be the 11 week old puppy thing but still, any advice beyond the one in the op.
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Sep 18, 2016 17:43
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my main advice to you is to wait until your dog is older.
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Sep 18, 2016 20:44
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11 weeks is still housebreaking territory. It will pass.
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Sep 18, 2016 22:41
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Verman posted:11 weeks is still housebreaking territory. It will pass. That's what I figured but I wanted to make sure
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Sep 18, 2016 22:51
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My new apartment's breed restrictions:quote:We welcome all breeds of dogs, except the following breed or mixed breed: Akita, Alaskan Malamute, Chow, Doberman Pinscher, German Shepherd, Great Dane, Husky, Pit Bull Terriers*, Rottweiler, Saint Bernard & Wolf Dog Hybrids.* (including all Pit Bull breeds - American Pit Bull Terriers, American or Irish Staffordshire Terriers, Bull Terriers, Pit Bulls, American Bull Dogs, & Presa Canario.) We reserve the right to add additional restricted breeds at any time. Problem is, looking at adoption websites, I fall in love with all of the shepherd mixes after having adopted an elderly shepherd for several years recently. Purebred restriction is a thing, and I don't intend to even argue it... but has anyone had luck arguing a "mixed breed" rule like the above with an apartment management company, especially if it looks more like another breed (Say, a lab/shepherd mix that looks like a lab with a bit more of a brownish coloration)? Shepherd restrictions are pretty rare, especially for as pet-friendly an apartment as this is, compared to pit bull/doberman/rotty restrictions (I also like Rottweilers, but I'm not even going to try to argue that one), and the Akita/Malamute/Husky/StBernard restrictions make sense given the climate. Is there a process for fighting it? In reality, I don't have a dog currently, and it would look bad to adopt one that is explicitly counter to the complex's rules, so I'll be best served to fall in love with another one, but there are an awful lot of mixed-breed shepherds in the area and I seem to want to pet them all. Kytrarewn fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 23:16
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I can't imagine any apartment complex willing to spend money on a dna test to determine the breeds within a mixed breed dog. All said that complex sounds like they might not have a great disposition towards dogs, specifically large dogs.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:34
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I figure as long as you are cool and don't raise a piece of poo poo dog then nobody will ever thank to care
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Sep 18, 2016 23:49
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Verman posted:I can't imagine any apartment complex willing to spend money on a dna test to determine the breeds within a mixed breed dog. All said that complex sounds like they might not have a great disposition towards dogs, specifically large dogs. The trouble comes when the adoption agency is a little bit too helpful. Not much plausible deniability when they say "It's a lab/shepherd mix" outright on the advertisement and adoption forms.
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Sep 18, 2016 23:50
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FAT CURES MUSCLES posted:Thanks, I went ahead and ordered a sliding one from amazon from her. You're on the right track with what you're doing, what you want to do is train an incompatible behavior to the jumping and barking. So every time she sees another dog get her to look at you and sit and stuff her full of treats. Eventually (it won't be an overnight fix) she'll automatically go to you for treats instead of jumping and barking whenever a dog walks by.
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Sep 19, 2016 00:21
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Kytrarewn posted:My new apartment's breed restrictions: The view I've seen with apartment restrictions is that they generally go by what's on the adoption paperwork, but if it looks especially like a banned breed, I could see them turning it down as well. Akita/Mals/Huskies are banned breeds often because of a common belief that they're inherently aggressive. St Bernards are a first for me, though. Edit: also what Aquatic Giraffe said that I thought I included but forgot to because  , the aggression thing tends to be more aimed at Akitas and Mals in my experience. A lot of Huskies just destroy everything if bored(except mine, he's broken) as Warbird can attest.
Psychobabble! fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Sep 20, 2016 |
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Sep 19, 2016 03:58
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Kytrarewn posted:The trouble comes when the adoption agency is a little bit too helpful. Not much plausible deniability when they say "It's a lab/shepherd mix" outright on the advertisement and adoption forms. Get some whiteout and cover the "/shepherd mix" part of the form, photocopy and send the apartment manager the photocopied form. Boom! Enjoy your new apartment and your new Labrador.
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Sep 19, 2016 04:29
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A lot of high energy breeds (huskies, etc) are banned from apartments because they get destructive when not given enough stimulation. Not saying it's impossible to have a high energy breed in an apartment but the average dog owning dipshit doesn't give them enough to do then they chew on walls and bark and stuff then the apartment complex bans them all because of one or two idiots.
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Sep 19, 2016 20:39
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I have a new and different problem. My puppy is fine in the crate, pretty much sleeps from when he goes to bed at 8pm (we have tried for longer but he get's very nippy and puts himself to bed) to about 7:30 in the morning. Right now we are trying to get him to the point where he will sleep in the living room/office with me during the day while I work, I created a little area where he can run and things using safety gates and despite him being able to see me he won't settle there at all. All he does is cry and cry, he has a blanket in there and some toys but just keeps crying till I put him back into his crate. Should I try to bring his crate into the living room/office while I work? or I try to stick it out with the play area for him?
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Sep 20, 2016 16:44
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sbaldrick posted:I have a new and different problem. Give him a kong with frozen PB or a chewstick and make him lie down/relax that way. He'll then start to associate the new area with lying down/chilling. I
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Sep 20, 2016 18:26
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Is it okay to crate the puppy right after she's had her meal? I've always heard that exerting them too soon before/after a meal can lead to bloat, so I've just been putting her in her crate after eating. Usually the meal involves some light obedience training, but it's not really enough to tire her out since I make sure she naps a bit before she eats too.
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Sep 21, 2016 00:29
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Carmant posted:Is it okay to crate the puppy right after she's had her meal? I've always heard that exerting them too soon before/after a meal can lead to bloat, so I've just been putting her in her crate after eating. Usually the meal involves some light obedience training, but it's not really enough to tire her out since I make sure she naps a bit before she eats too. How old is the puppy? Exerting them too much soon after a meal is known to increase risk for bloat, but taking them for a leisurely potty walk after a meal shouldn't be an issue, if you want to be careful/let poop become a thing she needs to do, wait 30 minutes. IIRC, you have some kind of mutt that may have some husky? Dogs that are especially at risk for bloat are ones with big narrow rib cages; think weims, vizslas, danes, etc. I've never heard that exercising them before a meal can cause bloat, but the science is still out on what *exactly* causes it, so I would worry less about exercise pre-food, and give them some downtime after food unless it isn't strenuous. Anecdotal, but I've worked in dog daycare centers a few times, and in the first one the founders Weim had almost died of bloat at a daycare because they put them out to play right after breakfast. When she founded the business, she required 30 minute waits between letting them out of their kennels and meals(on several vets advice), and we never had a case of bloat, and other places I work had similar protocols tl;dr: keep it light for 30-60 and you should be fine.
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Sep 21, 2016 07:27
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