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300+ mile trip, Kalamazoo to Toledo and back. Got the best gas mileage I've ever had - 37mpg! Makes the trip one way with no stops for fuel. Tomorrow, chain maintenance and clean it for the work week.
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Sep 18, 2016 06:18
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Schroeder91 posted:New rear pads. I somehow ran them down to metal again. At least this time the rotor is relatively OK. I'm not sure they changed the rear pads when I got my engine replaced, even though I gave them new pads and a rotor, which they did replace. If they did, then they didn't even last 3k miles. Is this normal for organic pads when you use only the rear brakes 95% of the time? How come you use only the rear brake 95% of the time?
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Sep 18, 2016 08:48
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Replaced a float needle in a buddies cb250 carby. Was easy enough though we had to replace a threaded screw and also pissed fuel everywhere. Also, it didnt fix the leak we were out to fix so mission success, lets go to the pub
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Sep 18, 2016 11:28
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Sagebrush posted:How come you use only the rear brake 95% of the time? I still use the front if I need it, but if I'm coming up to a stoplight or need to slow down engine braking + rears covers it majority of the time. If I need to stop faster, I use the front too. Slavvy posted:Sounds like your lever is adjusted improperly and dragging the rear brake all the time, or you have a jammed up caliper or something. I'd be lying if I said I never did that  but I usually try and hang my toes away from the controls for that very reason. I'll have to look into the lever and caliper it sounds like.
Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 13:29 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 13:26
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Also use your front brake more
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Sep 18, 2016 13:33
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The front brake is much more efficient please use it.
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Sep 18, 2016 14:52
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Yes I'm aware it's better but I don't need to lay into my brakes every time I stop. Edit: I'll make am effort to use em more but it sucks when your front dips hard. Currently looking to upgrade the springs when I do my forks. Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 15:13
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I actually took my off road motorcycle off road.  
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Sep 18, 2016 15:29
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Schroeder91 posted:Yes I'm aware it's better but I don't need to lay into my brakes every time I stop. You are aware that brake levers are not on/off switches right?
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Sep 18, 2016 17:47
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Chris Knight posted:You are aware that brake levers are not on/off switches right? Yes. If I don't need the increased braking force that the front can put out then what's wrong with using the rear?
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Sep 18, 2016 17:59
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When you brake, the weight shifts forwards and increases traction on the front wheel while decreasing it on the rear. I'd say that the rear brake alone locks up and slides at about a quarter to a third of the braking effort that is possible with the front alone (depends on your vehicle obviously). So you say that's not a big deal if you don't "need" the additional force, but you can't really predict when that'll be the case. If you're braking using the rear and a car runs the red light and you suddenly have to brake harder, stomping on the rear will just make you fishtail. So you grab for the front, but there's a fraction of a second lost doing that. And then since you aren't already on the front brake with the suspension compressed and the wheel under load, the bike will be less stable in that transition from no-brake to maximum-effort braking. I tend to use engine braking and the front brake alone 95% of the time, and only get on the rear as well when I need to stop really hard in a straight line. (e: on the newer bike. On my 350 with drums front and rear, I need to use both simultaneously every time to get reasonable stopping distances). If you're worried about suspension dive, fix that instead of giving up 75% of your potential braking force most of the time. e2: do you have a cruiser? The issues aren't quite as bad in those situations, because the geometry and extra weight mean that more force remains over the rear. The front is still the primary brake, though. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 18:07
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Plus muscle memory isn't going to magically remember how to apply the front brake correctly when you suddenly need that additional braking ability.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:10
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Also you're chewing through rear brake pads like mad. The front brakes are stronger like you say, so a light touch will give you the same braking force for less pad wear.Sagebrush posted:So you say that's not a big deal if you don't "need" the additional force, but you can't really predict when that'll be the case. If you're braking using the rear and a car runs the red light and you suddenly have to brake harder, stomping on the rear will just make you fishtail. So you grab for the front, but there's a fraction of a second lost doing that. And then since you aren't already on the front brake with the suspension compressed and the wheel under load, the bike will be less stable in that transition from no-brake to maximum-effort braking. Anecdotally, this exact thing happened to me several times in my first few months of riding when I still cautious of using the front brake. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Sep 18, 2016 |
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Sep 18, 2016 18:11
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always use your drat brakes. both of them. if you ever drove something big with only rear brakes, you'd know why.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:21
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On my MSF, the instructor had to keep reminding me to use the rear brake as well, because I was more used to bicycling than driving and focused entirely on the levers. </humblebrag> (I also struggled with not pulling in the clutch every time I braked for the first couple of months)
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Sep 18, 2016 18:25
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Sagebrush posted:When you brake, the weight shifts forwards and increases traction on the front wheel while decreasing it on the rear. I'd say that the rear brake alone locks up and slides at about a quarter to a third of the braking effort that is possible with the front alone (depends on your vehicle obviously). No, it's a Vstrom 1000 and the front dives the second I touch the front brake. It really is the main reason I don't want to use it if I don't need to. But what you say makes sense. I've already ordered springs to swap out when I do my fork seals. I've had no issues braking how I do and have done it a long time so it's habitual and I like it. What z3n says though was my biggest concern, not having the muscle memory. There's been a couple instances where I need both and I didn't have any issues grabbing the front though.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:30
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anything without a telelever or other exotic front end designs will have some brake dive. get used to it.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:43
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Some dive is normal -- that's just how suspension works (unless you have a BMW Opsidedaunersuspensung). Is this a known issue with the V-Strom 1000? Are you a big fat guy? Maybe have a suspension guy check it out and tell you if it's set up right before changing things. If you have already done this, ignore.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:44
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I believe it is a common weak area in them, from what I've been searching about them. And yes I'm a big fat fucker at 6'6" and around 340. My cbr500r had hella dive too until I changed the springs and it was much better. The Vstrom is squishy as gently caress. I don't know if the PO did anything to it or not.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:51
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Yeah at that weight you probably would need some stiffer shocks. Bike will definitely be safer after you get it set up.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:53
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Ah, yeah, you're definitely going to have excessive dive then, since Japanese bikes seem to come from the factory set up for a Japanese guy of average weight (like, 135lbs). Incidentally, your weight is also likely part of why the brake pads are wearing out prematurely -- that's a lot of momentum and energy that needs to be dissipated, and the rear brake is smaller in diameter with smaller pads that heat up faster. Fix the springs and start using the brake properly IMO. You'll be pleasantly surprised.
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Sep 18, 2016 18:55
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Hopefully everything will be here by next weekend and I can get it swapped out. I'll report back then.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:05
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Revalve + Respring for your weight. if you're curious as to how much travel you are using regularly, wrap a ziptie around the chrome stanchion like this: 
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Sep 18, 2016 19:06
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Yeah at your size/weight I'm not surprised you're burning out rear pads using the rear only. Swap to using front and rear and your pads will last a lot longer. Also you're on the right path with respringing that thing, OEM vstrom forks are hilariously soft.
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Sep 18, 2016 19:07
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cursedshitbox posted:Revalve + Respring for your weight. I was going to get the race tech gold valves too but it has to wait for budget reasons. Even better than a zip tie, I'm getting a little fork seal leak, which is why I'm doing them obviously. 
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Sep 18, 2016 19:19
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Z3n posted:OEM Just Suzuki thangs. 
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Sep 18, 2016 20:31
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Sagebrush posted:On my MSF, the instructor had to keep reminding me to use the rear brake as well, because I was more used to bicycling than driving and focused entirely on the levers. </humblebrag> License test humblebrag time: I got talked to for getting too low in corners 
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Sep 18, 2016 20:41
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:License test humblebrag time: I got talked to for getting too low in corners I broke an indicated 90 mph on a spirited overtake on my test.
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Sep 18, 2016 22:54
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Had the 600 mile service done on Friday. It was an oil change, chain adjustment, steering head re-torque, 9k rpm rev limiter removal and a bunch of checks. $238 worth of BMW tax. At least they washed it for free. I also had the OEM side cases and a HP chain tensioner installed.  And added a cheap radiator and oil cooler guard. 
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Sep 19, 2016 01:20
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Man that color scheme is pretty dope.
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Sep 19, 2016 07:56
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Z3n posted:Man that color scheme is pretty dope. Thanks! I love the way this bike looks and rides.
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Sep 19, 2016 15:22
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I learned how to change oil and oil filter on my MV. It only took 3 hours! Also checked the air filter and installed new clutch & break levers. It was pretty fun. Had to lay 'er down to find out that what looked liked hex bolts on the sump were star bolts. Yay! Guys at San Jose Moto Guild have been very helpful. It's nice to have an access to a lift and all that poo poo along with someone else's years of experience.
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Sep 19, 2016 22:43
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I POR15'd a tank because my previous efforts of de-lining and de-rusting were so effective I uncovered pinhole leaks, which incidentally must have been what the PO was trying to cover up with the first lining 
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Sep 19, 2016 23:48
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Schroeder91 posted:No, it's a Vstrom 1000 and the front dives the second I touch the front brake. ... I've had no issues braking how I do and have done it a long time so it's habitual and I like it. When I started riding on a CBR250, I used the rear brake all the time too and it felt more natural. That said, every larger bike I've ridden has had a hilariously ineffectual rear brake, my old SV1000 included, and I've quickly gotten used to mostly using the front. Assuming the Vstrom has a similar setup - it shares a stack of SV1000 parts, no? - its no wonder you're running those pads down. Using the rear to slow that biek has got to be some exercise in patience and early application.
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Sep 20, 2016 01:49
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prukinski posted:When I started riding on a CBR250, I used the rear brake all the time too and it felt more natural. That said, every larger bike I've ridden has had a hilariously ineffectual rear brake, my old SV1000 included, and I've quickly gotten used to mostly using the front. Assuming the Vstrom has a similar setup - it shares a stack of SV1000 parts, no? - its no wonder you're running those pads down. Using the rear to slow that biek has got to be some exercise in patience and early application. I've had no issues braking with just the rear and engine braking, and I'm not braking super early either.
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Sep 20, 2016 02:37
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I don't even understand how you can use the rear for more than 15-25% of braking. Just did the pads on the rear of my Tuono since the PO must have mainly used them, but they are still just useless. Kinda fun locking up the rear when roll up to a stop light sometimes, but otherwise every bike I have owned the rear is just a supplement to the front. Although the engine braking on my twin is insane, so I guess I could see how the PO did just that with the rear...
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Sep 20, 2016 02:45
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The engine braking probably did a majority of the work and the rears just supplemented it? I dunno. I didn't have to brake earlier than normal and never blew past anything cause I couldn't stop in time or anything like that.
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Sep 20, 2016 03:13
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My fz-09 locks the rear if you put moderate pressure on it. Fun for skids but makes it sort of hard to modulate for brake use. I don't really need it for anything but skids anyway though that's why I got it.
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Sep 20, 2016 03:50
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Voltage posted:I don't even understand how you can use the rear for more than 15-25% of braking. Just did the pads on the rear of my Tuono since the PO must have mainly used them, but they are still just useless. Kinda fun locking up the rear when roll up to a stop light sometimes, but otherwise every bike I have owned the rear is just a supplement to the front. Although the engine braking on my twin is insane, so I guess I could see how the PO did just that with the rear... I mean the Tuono is pretty special in that the lines and cylinder is so close to the engine that it roasts the fluid anyway so the rear brake has a dead feeling almost immediately regardless of how often you change it. I pretty much only use it as a hill assist now
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Sep 20, 2016 03:55
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Razzled posted:I mean the Tuono is pretty special in that the lines and cylinder is so close to the engine that it roasts the fluid anyway so the rear brake has a dead feeling almost immediately regardless of how often you change it. I pretty much only use it as a hill assist now Oh hey, at least yours loving works. I'd should probably go with the RSV4 vertical setup before I end up needing it.
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Sep 20, 2016 04:06
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