Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

Zhent: Oct 18, 2011; The difference between gods and daemons largely depends upon where one is standing at the time.

On airbrush primers - I just went to prime some bikes and found my old bottle of Vallejo grey primer caked up and lovely. Is that still the best stuff to go with, and does it still flake off models if you don't let them sit and dry for 24-48 hours before handling?

# ? Sep 14, 2016 13:27

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# ? May 16, 2024 14:05

big_g: Sep 24, 2004; Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

I started the White Dwarf freebie model last night. Following the colours from the guide. It's the first time I've picked up a brush since the Imperial Fists I posted a while back. Quite happy with the red armour.

Hopefully starting the flesh tonight.

# ? Sep 14, 2016 14:08

TheFinalTuba: May 3, 2016

Zark the Damned posted:

Talking of paints going bad etc., does anyone know of a good replacement for Gretchin Green (old GW Foundation) - my pot's down to its last dregs and I still have a ton of Grots, Gnoblars and Goblins to paint.

Also, according to this handy chart I found online:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

VGC Heavy Khaki should get you there too. Or there's a few others on there too if neither GW or VGC are your paint of choice

# ? Sep 14, 2016 17:34

Dr. Phildo: Dec 8, 2003; Except the heaven had come so near,
So seemed to choose my door,The distance would not haunt me so; Soiled Meat

big_g posted:

I started the White Dwarf freebie model last night. Following the colours from the guide. It's the first time I've picked up a brush since the Imperial Fists I posted a while back. Quite happy with the red armour.

Hopefully starting the flesh tonight.

That's looking real nice

First white dwarf I've bought in years. I'm a sucker for freebies though

Now all I have to do is paint the dude

# ? Sep 14, 2016 18:15

Triggered: Aug 21, 2016; Learn about this great man on mormon.org

Zark the Damned posted:

Talking of paints going bad etc., does anyone know of a good replacement for Gretchin Green (old GW Foundation) - my pot's down to its last dregs and I still have a ton of Grots, Gnoblars and Goblins to paint.

Not sure how old gretchin green is but if you are talking about old school citadel paints you will need coat D'arms. There are conversion charts out there.

# ? Sep 14, 2016 19:51

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Triggered posted:

Not sure how old gretchin green is but if you are talking about old school citadel paints you will need coat D'arms. There are conversion charts out there.

Coat d'Arms predates Foundation paints as far as I know.

# ? Sep 14, 2016 19:54

Skarsnik: Oct 21, 2008; I...AM...RUUUDE!

Zark the Damned posted:

Talking of paints going bad etc., does anyone know of a good replacement for Gretchin Green (old GW Foundation) - my pot's down to its last dregs and I still have a ton of Grots, Gnoblars and Goblins to paint.

I've had a lot of luck picking up job lots of paint on ebay for foundation colours. Most wont list the actual colours so you need to do a lot of zoomed in picture hunting but it's how I got a full pot of charandon granite recently

# ? Sep 14, 2016 20:05

Fyrbrand: Dec 30, 2002; Grimey Drawer

Congrats on the Charadon. It's one of the most useful colors I've ever come across. Ranks up there with Menoth White Highlight.

# ? Sep 15, 2016 01:18

Skarsnik: Oct 21, 2008; I...AM...RUUUDE!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252534904058

These are the kind I mean, just search fairly generically

# ? Sep 15, 2016 07:12

Attestant: Oct 23, 2012; Don't judge me.

big_g posted:

I started the White Dwarf freebie model last night. Following the colours from the guide. It's the first time I've picked up a brush since the Imperial Fists I posted a while back. Quite happy with the red armour.

Hopefully starting the flesh tonight.

That is so good. How do you do the armor bits?

# ? Sep 15, 2016 07:16

big_g: Sep 24, 2004; Our young men will have to shoot down their young men at the rate of four to one, if we're to keep pace at all.

Attestant posted:

That is so good. How do you do the armor bits?

Thanks, it's just what the White Dwarf recommended: Khorne Red washed with Nuln Oil then Evil Sunz Scarlet and edged with Fire dragon bright.

A little bit of wet blending and extra wash added to the very darkest points.

# ? Sep 15, 2016 20:28

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

At NOVA I won a copy of Lost Patrol which is pretty neat. I'm stoked to play it, but I wanted to paint the models in it first. I wanted to take a quick break from Ultramarines anyway, so I got started and painted up the Scouts:

I used Scout Biker heads and other bits to dress them up a little bit, since the Scouts sprue is a bit old at this point.

# ? Sep 16, 2016 01:42

MasterSlowPoke: Oct 9, 2005; Our courage will pull us through

Does the scout sprue come with a shotgun without a hand on the pistol grip, or did you convert the one grenadey is holding? You also made the plastic jungle terrain look good.

# ? Sep 16, 2016 04:16

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

MasterSlowPoke posted:

Does the scout sprue come with a shotgun without a hand on the pistol grip, or did you convert the one grenadey is holding? You also made the plastic jungle terrain look good.

The grenade arm, the shotgun in question, the holstered shotgun on the sergeant, and all the heads came from the Scout Biker sprue. And thanks! I've had the little twigs and plants from the Catachan heavy weapon squads lying around forever, about time I used them.

# ? Sep 16, 2016 06:20

The Sex Cannon: Nov 22, 2004; Eh. I'm pretty content with my current logo.

I finished my Enginseers and their servitors!

I really like the way the enginseers look. Really fun models to paint. Maybe I'll actually paint up all those skitarii I won at NOVA last year...

# ? Sep 16, 2016 07:13

Frobbe: Jan 19, 2007; Calm Down

Airbrushing metallics (Vallejo game air)

any particular tricks? i'm experiencing a lot of clogging in my neo for iwata, probably made worse by the fact that i managed to bend the tip. Should i just use a cheapo chinairbrush for metallic basecoating?

# ? Sep 16, 2016 10:16

Floppychop: Mar 30, 2012

Frobbe posted:

Airbrushing metallics (Vallejo game air)

any particular tricks? i'm experiencing a lot of clogging in my neo for iwata, probably made worse by the fact that i managed to bend the tip. Should i just use a cheapo chinairbrush for metallic basecoating?

I have a Neo as well. I was just fine using Vallejo's "chainmail silver". I thinned it down a little and had no problems.

Your bent tip may be the culprit.

# ? Sep 16, 2016 16:42

Frobbe: Jan 19, 2007; Calm Down

Floppychop posted:

I have a Neo as well. I was just fine using Vallejo's "chainmail silver". I thinned it down a little and had no problems.

Your bent tip may be the culprit.

Welp, I've got a new one coming so that problem is solved at least. I still don't know how I managed to gently caress it up

# ? Sep 16, 2016 18:08

CapnAndy: Feb 27, 2004; Some teeth long for ripping, gleaming wet from black dog gums. So you keep your eyes closed at the end. You don't want to see such a mouth up close. before the bite, before its oblivion in the goring of your soft parts, the speckled lips will curl back in a whinny of excitement. You just know it.

I want to try this out on my heroclix, which are prepainted. Also I'm colorblind so some of it is going to be guesswork on my part. Two questions:

If I'm going to be priming them anyway, do I need to/should I remove the pre-existing paint?

I don't quite get shading because I can't quite see shades of colors. I basecoat things in the colors I want them to end up to be, and then shade the entire area in a darker color? Or does the shade only go on certain areas? Drybrushing I get, I can see the difference it makes. And is basecoat color->shade darker->drybrush lighter a good rule to stick to? People in the tutorial videos seem to be picking the colors almost at random, the guy in the Space Marine tutorial video goes blue->grey->light blue and I'd stick to all shades of blue just because I don't see how getting out of the main color you want makes sense.

# ? Sep 16, 2016 23:47

Gumdrop Larry: Jul 30, 2006

CapnAndy posted:

I want to try this out on my heroclix, which are prepainted. Also I'm colorblind so some of it is going to be guesswork on my part. Two questions:

If I'm going to be priming them anyway, do I need to/should I remove the pre-existing paint?

I don't quite get shading because I can't quite see shades of colors. I basecoat things in the colors I want them to end up to be, and then shade the entire area in a darker color? Or does the shade only go on certain areas? Drybrushing I get, I can see the difference it makes. And is basecoat color->shade darker->drybrush lighter a good rule to stick to? People in the tutorial videos seem to be picking the colors almost at random, the guy in the Space Marine tutorial video goes blue->grey->light blue and I'd stick to all shades of blue just because I don't see how getting out of the main color you want makes sense.

I would imagine that a pre-painted thing like Heroclix that's both softer plastic and has a paintjob meant to be handled and banged around would probably be a bitch to strip without severely damaging the model itself. You only really need to strip something that you're repainting if the underlying coat is so shoddy and glopped on that it's obscuring detail and you want to recover that. It may be worth some cursory searches to see if anyone out there has had success with stripping Heroclix in specific, but I'd probably just prime 'em and go.

As far as shading goes at a fundamental level what you're trying to do is just harshly exaggerate what light would naturally do to stuff in full scale; Solid colors in just natural lighting on a miniature makes it look like a toy because even though there's shadow and lightened edges it's too small to appreciate it. If you get drybrushing, shading or washes/darker colors is just broadening that "spectrum." You want dark stuff in the recesses and folds, and light stuff on those raised edges and surfaces. You're accomplishing the latter with drybrushing already, so adding some more darkness to spots that would naturally be dark just makes it all pop that much more. That spectrum with basecoat, shading and highlighting/drybrushing then becomes darkened base color -> base color -> lightened base color.

You're basically right with the sequencing, but could stick in "reclaim the moderately raised areas with the normal base color" in between the shade darker and drybrush steps, and turn it into "basecoat, shade by way of washing or hand painting a darkened basecoat into the recesses, reclaim slightly raised areas with basecoat (more if you used a wash on the area instead of painting on the shading via a blend or whatever), and then highlight with a lightened basecoat. But in general basecoat, shade, highlight is a good enough core sequence to make stuff that's a notch above tabletop standard and looks pretty good.

I don't mean to condescend if you already know this or have tried it, but get a pot or two of wash and hit a miniature with it after a basecoat and see if the really harsh "shadows" it makes isn't perceptible for you, especially after touching up the raised areas with the primary color and then a drybrush.

# ? Sep 17, 2016 01:25

Fyrbrand: Dec 30, 2002; Grimey Drawer

The Sex Cannon posted:

Cool Enginseer poo poo

This owns, and so does SRM's stuff even if I think scout models are v bad.

# ? Sep 17, 2016 02:00

JackMann: Aug 11, 2010; Secure. Contain. Protect.; Fallen Rib

Finished up Sluggort, a Darksword DiTerlizzi mini. The studio paintjob was green, but I thought I'd go with a more Caucasian skin tone, with a touch of jaundice and various other skin conditions.

Sometimes, a goblin just needs to relax among the tall grass and wildflowers.

# ? Sep 17, 2016 05:41

The Sex Cannon: Nov 22, 2004; Eh. I'm pretty content with my current logo.

Fyrbrand posted:

This owns, and so does SRM's stuff even if I think scout models are v bad.

Thanks, dude!

I've seen his models in person and I agree, his stuff rules. Tomorrow: I begin to paint Commissar Yarrick, a model I've always wanted to own.

# ? Sep 17, 2016 06:07

mentos: Apr 14, 2008; The Freshmaker!

Hey so I was trying something kinda silly for the silliest of the Emperor's cannon fodder, the almighty Vostroyans. The idea was to have the medic work on one of the casualties that came with the original battalion box. The worst one in terms of injuries (blown out chest, ribs exposed) Then I decided this would make a good chest-burster vignette using a ripper from mi 'nids army. I confess I laughed the whole time while I was painting but I am a little disappointed with the composition. Also it probably could use a lot more blood splatter. Whatcha think?

BTW I love they way that Gorechosen freebie big_g is working on is coming along.

VVVVV That's exactly what's bothering me, I might switch to one of the rippers that doesn't have the curly tail

mentos fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Sep 17, 2016

# ? Sep 17, 2016 21:58

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

It may be too late for this, but since you say you're disappointed in the composition, maybe it'll help. I think the little Tyranid thing would look more like it's bursting out of him if you cut off part of the tail and put it inside the dead guy's chest. Right now it just looks like he's chillin out.

# ? Sep 17, 2016 22:01

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

mentos posted:

The paint job on this mini diorama is really great! I love the stern-faced Vostroyan who's just like "I don't need this poo poo today". I think the suggestion to cut the tail off and have it coming out of the casualty is spot on, as yeah, he does just look like he's chilling out up there.

I painted up the Genestealers from Lost Patrol. I gave them a stupid simple wash + drybrush paintjob but I think it does the job well enough:

Token action shot:

And the gang's all here:

# ? Sep 18, 2016 03:57

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Wondering if anyone knew any airbrush additives.

I started off using thinned Windex (which worked technically but is a bad idea), then to Vallejo airbrush thinner, and now I'm looking at golden airbrush medium.

Should I be able to use the airbrush medium similarly to the thinner? Not sure what I should expect and if it'll create any differing behavior...

# ? Sep 18, 2016 04:04

8one6: May 20, 2012; When in doubt, err on the side of Awesome!

I was told not to let the pics of amazing display quality minis in this thread dissuade me from posting pics of my own attempt to learn how to paint, so here are some minis that don't deserve to be in the same forum as some of the ones posted here.

<-- Imho-tex there was the first mini I ever painted (or custom modded) this was a few years ago when the necron army got a new codex.

I painted some truly awful minis for that army (but a few people said my kitbashes weren't bad). Recently I've decided to use the big (and growing) pile of Reaper Bones minis to teach myself how to paint like someone who can actually see shapes and colors. (these are all from the last three weeks or so and are in order of when I painted them)

The first few things I worked on were trash mobs like vermin and goblins.

Painted up some bats because hey, they're just black and and the headstone just needed a highlight and some shading. Also painted up a chaos beast because I can't think of any color scheme that would look bad on a pile of vomit with teeth.

Gnoll ranger. The excuse for the yellow is I have a poo poo ton of it leftover from the failed necron army.

Decided I wanted to do something different with the kobolds so I made them each a different color.

Skeleton warriors. I asked my twitter friends how I should paint the shields and someone suggested Hello Kitty as a joke and I figured if it looked like poo poo I could just go over it with black and do something else. It's my first attempt to paint a design on a flat surface on a mini.

I wanted to see if I could do more than just slap a little shade on the translucent minis. I may look into lighting them at some point.

I have the citadel "how to paint" book so I wanted to try out the flesh layering technique from that.

Took a break from characters and creatures to paint up some terrain bits. I wanted to make the dumpster look like something you'd see in a crime scene but I think my blood/rust work there kind of sucks.
The high tech ammo crate looks like poo poo because yellow is apparently really hard to work with if you don't just spray paint the entire loving thing yellow to start with.

Some driders that I needed for a game I ran last week.

Not bones. I got a copy of Grind super cheap at HPB on Labor Day. I don't play Warmachine but I like the steamjacks so I figured I could use the minis a generic robots/golems. I based them black and then decided to do a simple paint scheme all of them.

Painted these tonight. A friend suggested I try out some of the citadel glazes as a last step painting the minis.

8one6 fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Sep 18, 2016

# ? Sep 18, 2016 07:42

GoodBee: Apr 8, 2004

My favorites are the rainbow kobolds.

I ran a dumb module back in the day where my PCs kept running into kobolds so I started pointing out that they were different bands and different colors and started giving them different properties. I started working out a plot where they were all working for different colored dragons but the game fizzled.

# ? Sep 18, 2016 16:49

Neurolimal: Nov 3, 2012

I like the warmachines, but I will say that you might want to thin your paints a little more and wipe some excess off the brush; I know it's really time consuming to paint multiple layers just to base coat, but it ends up having a smoother and even finish, and it avoids paint pooling (the pill-shaped grill things has some evidence of that).

You may also want to look into (or do more of if you already know) drybrushing, because it can help a lot with spicing up large areas of a single color (I can attest to that, if you look at the first pics of my muddy-looking werewolf crab thing in post history)

But still, they're not bad at all.

# ? Sep 18, 2016 17:11

maikzor: Feb 26, 2011

I finally decided on a scheme for my space mens

I'm not very happy with the cloth though, I can't get the shading right, I mean I could glaze and blend for hours but I've got quite a few of these to do. Any ideas?

# ? Sep 18, 2016 18:54

Frobbe: Jan 19, 2007; Calm Down

maikzor posted:

I finally decided on a scheme for my space mens

I'm not very happy with the cloth though, I can't get the shading right, I mean I could glaze and blend for hours but I've got quite a few of these to do. Any ideas?

Desert camo cadians!

# ? Sep 18, 2016 19:00

mango sentinel: Jan 5, 2001; by sebmojo

Does anyone do lady heads for IG soldiers?

# ? Sep 18, 2016 19:21

NTRabbit: Aug 15, 2012; i wear this armour to protect myself from the histrionics of hysterical women

bitches

mango sentinel posted:

Does anyone do lady heads for IG soldiers?

Victoria Miniatures

NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Sep 18, 2016

# ? Sep 18, 2016 19:23

wdarkk: Oct 26, 2007; Friends: Protected
World: Saved
Crablettes: Eaten

So, a question about Zenethial Priming.

I'm planning on painting this guy, who basically consists of a flat-ish main body with a flat-ish weapons pod underneath. The weapons pod pretty much underlies the entire front half of the vehicle.

Should I prime the underside of the vehicle above where the weapons pod will be in light color, as if the pod wasn't there? Or to rephrase that, should I zenthially prime the body and pod separately?

# ? Sep 18, 2016 20:06

Phi230: Feb 2, 2016; by Fluffdaddy

Hey everyone,

How do y'all store and transport your armies around?

I have a big plastic box but some damage occurs to my more fragile models, and I fear damage to others. Nothing significant yet, but I'm super paranoid.

# ? Sep 18, 2016 20:33

TTerrible: Jul 15, 2005

Phi230 posted:

Hey everyone,

How do y'all store and transport your armies around?

I have a big plastic box but some damage occurs to my more fragile models, and I fear damage to others. Nothing significant yet, but I'm super paranoid.

https://www.krmulticase.com/

# ? Sep 18, 2016 20:34