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Got a 2014 Mazda3 hatch. After a quick stop in traffic earlier today, all these lights lit up: Was able to drive it home, but power steering was out (and probably ABS but I didn't dare to check), but A/C, audio, lights, etc. were OK. On getting it home and letting it sit for 30 minutes, it starts up okay, with the Check Engine light on; soon as I either turn on the headlamps or take it out of park, the board lights up again. I can only assume the quick stop dislodged something. Any guesses? Failing that, am I maybe OK to drive it 15 miles to the dealer or do I need to ask for a tow? I have not even the faintest idea what to look for when car things go wrong 
Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 05:38 on Sep 21, 2016 |
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Sep 21, 2016 03:16
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As long as the check engine light isn't flashing, and the alternator light isn't on, you should be fine to drive it to the shop.
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Sep 21, 2016 03:45
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That would be the battery symbol, correct? Haven't seen that. Here's a full image of the cluster: Only one not shown is the airbag light is also flashing red, even when buckled in. Check engine is solid yellow. It felt like it started a little more slowly than usual just now. I also noticed that, when the cluster is lit, the start/stop engine button doesn't function--I have to turn off the headlights, wait for things to normalize, then I can stop the car. Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Sep 21, 2016 |
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Sep 21, 2016 03:59
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I really want to know what electrical gremlin is causing that. It's got to be the weirdest ground, or a loose massive plug on the computer or back of the gauge cluster.
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Sep 21, 2016 04:58
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SouthsideSaint posted:What makes you so sure the engine is siezed. Ive seen those motors destroy the flywheel and it makes it seem like its dead. Or is this not the same 4.6 that came in millions of panthers? Same block, big DOHC heads. Might not be seized, but probably warrants a teardown anyways.
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Sep 21, 2016 05:04
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Godholio posted:I really want to know what electrical gremlin is causing that. It's got to be the weirdest ground, or a loose massive plug on the computer or back of the gauge cluster. Believe me I'm confused too. All I did was stop quickly for an emergency stoplight going yellow, you'd think that wouldn't be enough to jar a wire loose. Though... I DID have body repair work done for an accident back in February, maybe they hosed something up. Be interesting to see what the service guys at the dealership say...
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Sep 21, 2016 05:37
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Godholio posted:I really want to know what electrical gremlin is causing that. It's got to be the weirdest ground, or a loose massive plug on the computer or back of the gauge cluster. My wife once kicked out the plug in the back of the ECU in my car (2007 Focus ST, passenger side footwell) and everything stopped working except the drivetrain, and every light on the dashboard went on. I was quietly making GBS threads myself because we had just made some fairly expensive decisions regarding home ownership, so it was a huge relief to notice it and go "hey this thing should probably be plugged in".
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Sep 21, 2016 11:01
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I've seen cars throw all lights at a panic stop before, usually it clears if you shut the car off then restart.
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Sep 21, 2016 13:58
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ABS sensor got damaged somehow by panic stop? Seems like those sensors trigger a bunch of CELs in modern cars.
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Sep 21, 2016 15:15
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Memento posted:My wife once kicked out the plug in the back of the ECU in my car (2007 Focus ST, passenger side footwell) and everything stopped working except the drivetrain, and every light on the dashboard went on. I was quietly making GBS threads myself because we had just made some fairly expensive decisions regarding home ownership, so it was a huge relief to notice it and go "hey this thing should probably be plugged in". I bet it's something similar to this. His power steering is electric assist, so would explain that as well.
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Sep 21, 2016 15:20
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If there's anything unplugged under the dash I don't see it. Speedo stopped working this morning too. At the dealer service, we'll see what they say. 
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Sep 21, 2016 16:14
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Stupid question: any reason to disconnect a battery when swapping an auxillary belt? (Saab 2.0t) Or did my garage not like dashcam being there?
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Sep 21, 2016 16:26
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Nope, not unless the battery cables are in the way. Not familiar with Saab engine bays 
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Sep 21, 2016 16:27
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scuz posted:Nope, not unless the battery cables are in the way. Not familiar with Saab engine bays Other side of the engine bay. I'm mildly annoyed if that were the case - I had to reset all my aircon/radio settings and all they needed to do was pull the plug out of the cigarette lighter socket.
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Sep 21, 2016 16:32
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Hahaha, what? I'm dying for the story here.
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Sep 21, 2016 16:32
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scuz posted:Hahaha, what? I'm dying for the story here. It's not that exciting: Left the car with the garage to swap the aux belt and the anti-roll bars and when I got it back the clock was off a little. Then I realised that all the setting on the in-car computer were back to default - i.e. as a result of a battery disconnection. I can't think of any reason to do that, other than the fact that I havea dashcam glued to the windscreen and they didn't appreciate being spied on while they worked and decide to disconnect the battery. Which would be perfectly reasonable, if the power supply for the dashcam weren't right above the gear shifter and easy to pull out.
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Sep 21, 2016 16:45
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It is a good idea to disconnect batteries in practice when doing mechanical work. You don't want to turn an engine accidentally and it run. Sure modern cars have computers and stuff so not really likely at all but common practice still that a mechanic would learn.
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Sep 21, 2016 17:14
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Christobevii3 posted:It is a good idea to disconnect batteries in practice when doing mechanical work. You don't want to turn an engine accidentally and it run. Sure modern cars have computers and stuff so not really likely at all but common practice still that a mechanic would learn. The first step for every service item in every service manual under the sun is "disconnect the negative battery cable".
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Sep 21, 2016 17:34
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Got a call back from the shop. Seems one ground cable is missing and another is pinched and torn, and all the rest are painted over, which is causing the electric gremlins. Gonna cost me $450 to fix 'cos they gotta take the front end apart to get to it. I wonder if I can go after the auto body shop that did the repairs in February for restitution. Probably not, even if it hadn't been over half a year since then. Ciaphas fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Sep 21, 2016 |
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Sep 21, 2016 18:00
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spog posted:Tempted? Going to get the remap instead? No worries all is forgiven. I'm just going to put the cash towards a nice new bike, I think. If I'm allowed. Maybe even if I'm not.
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Sep 21, 2016 18:21
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Ciaphas posted:Got a call back from the shop. Seems one ground cable is missing and another is pinched and torn, and all the rest are painted over, which is causing the electric gremlins. Gonna cost me $450 to fix 'cos they gotta take the front end apart to get to it. Did you buy this new or used?
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Sep 21, 2016 18:26
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So, I need to buy new tires for my 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS. It has 16" rims, and not knowing anything about tires, is it possible to save some money and switch from my stock 205/55R16 to 195/65R15 without needing smaller rims to match the new tires?
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Sep 21, 2016 18:26
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El Kabong posted:So, I need to buy new tires for my 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS. It has 16" rims, and not knowing anything about tires, is it possible to save some money and switch from my stock 205/55R16 to 195/65R15 without needing smaller rims to match the new tires? Nope. Tire size works like this: 205: width in milimeters 55: sidewall height (in percentage of width????) 16: wheel diameter. If you have 16" wheels, you need tires that end in 16. The other two numbers, you probably have some wiggle room.
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Sep 21, 2016 18:34
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Bovril Delight posted:Did you buy this new or used? Leased new, up in May of next year. They say it's not warrantied because of the body shop repairs.
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Sep 21, 2016 18:44
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Was it your insurance or someone else's that paid for the repair? A lot of them provide their own "we'll stand behind this" guarantees, though I have no idea whether those are worth any more than the paper they're printed on.
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Sep 21, 2016 19:04
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Yes body shop should be held to repair. I'd call your insurance and tell them that a repair was done improperly by that shop. If other person's insurance paid they'll proof after them for you.
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Sep 21, 2016 19:15
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My insurance (GEICO) paid because I was at-fault, and they've said that they won't cover anything else or guarantee work because I chose the body shop (having been told they were trustworthy and good by a friend) instead of going from GEICO's list. So basically my fault entirely, as usual lately
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Sep 21, 2016 19:18
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Call the shop and ask to talk to the owner. Give him chance to do right then update us.
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Sep 21, 2016 19:19
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Safety Dance posted:Nope. Tire size works like this:
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Sep 21, 2016 20:09
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scuz posted:You have no idea how many times I've shittily googled what those dimensions mean. I'm so happy to know this now. I'm glad! Use this tire size calculator to compare the relative sizes of two tires: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc
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Sep 21, 2016 20:25
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Safety Dance posted:I'm glad! Use this tire size calculator to compare the relative sizes of two tires: https://tiresize.com/calculator/ edit: Nevermind yours does too
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Sep 21, 2016 20:27
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Just got done with Frank's Auto Body. They're standing behind their work and covering the bill at the Mazda service desk for me. I guess there is some good after all  (missed work aside, but nothing doing about that)
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Sep 21, 2016 20:48
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I have a 2000 Tacoma, manual with about 240K. I love this thing to death, had it since 2001, but I am starting to worry about rust. FWIW, I live in the DC metro area, so salt on the roads occasionally in the winter, but not a ton. Other than rust, the truck drives fantastic. No CELs, quiet, lots of power, and I drive it maybe 2-3K/year at this point. My take is that this level of rust is between: 1. normal for a 16 year old truck to 2. watch it close, it will get bad fast. Can anyone with more rusty car experience comment? I am about to buy a new rear hitch and bumper, as they are both the worst as far as rust damage. Tapping around on the bad spots with a metal object still results in a good clang and no thuds.     
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Sep 21, 2016 21:08
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Ciaphas posted:Just got done with Frank's Auto Body. They're standing behind their work and covering the bill at the Mazda service desk for me. Wow, that kicks rear end. Good on Frank for standing up for his poo poo.
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Sep 21, 2016 22:30
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No kidding. I am shocked and impressed.
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Sep 21, 2016 22:42
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Can anyone think of why a 1995 F-250 with a gas engine and an auto transmission would immediately die when shifted into D, but drives ok if you put it in 1st? An out of state friend is having trouble and I'm kind of stumped. Is it a computer problem?
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Sep 21, 2016 23:20
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El Kabong posted:So, I need to buy new tires for my 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS. It has 16" rims, and not knowing anything about tires, is it possible to save some money and switch from my stock 205/55R16 to 195/65R15 without needing smaller rims to match the new tires? willtheyfit.com is probably the easiest site to check this sort of thing. There are sizes that are close that may be cheaper.
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Sep 22, 2016 00:11
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Speaking of rust, I have a complicated, "bad with money" car question. I'm driving an '08 Jeep Liberty Sport; I'm in Michigan but it was a southern vehicle and I bought it in 2012 so there's very little rust on it. Runs and drives great, did the front calipers and rotors last year and just did the rear calipers a couple weeks ago. It's been great except for the fuel economy of around 18/24 (although not bad for an SUV, I suppose). It currently has 127,000 miles on it, and the only thing it really needs is a new set of summer tires but since I'm about the switch to the snows I can put that off until next spring. My wife is driving an '05 Subaru Legacy; it's a New Jersey car so it's also get very little rust for its age. It's got about 120k miles and runs and drives fine... except the cruise control won't work because the CEL is on. I took it to a reputable shop, they checked all the oxygen sensors and said that all the cats needed to be replaced to the tune of $1000 for aftermarket parts (which the shop says might not last very long) or $2000 for factory parts (which will last longer but maybe not more than a year or so, worst case scenario). The dealer quoted $3500 for the same work. It's a good car but we bought it to be a more economical travel car, so it's annoying not having the cruise control. The main drive shaft was howling so we replaced that a couple weeks ago to the tune of $600. The summer tires are good but we'll need a set of snows in a couple weeks if we decided to maintain the status quo, car-wise. I also inherited my mom's '04 Mercury Sable LS. It runs and drives fine, and only has 77k miles on it. The body looks good, but apparently my mom ran over a series of rust monsters with it, because when the shop looked at it, they said the passenger side floor board was almost rusted through, and the normal hoist point nearby crumpled when they lifted the car. The shop said it was ugly, but it wouldn't affect structural integrity, at least not for a while. My wife likes that the Sable is roomier than the Legacy, and working cruise is huge if we're looking at it from the perspective of a traveling vehicle. But she's understandably concerned about the rust issue. A minor downside for me is that it only has a tape deck, but I'm old so I still have tapes to listen to, and I have a tape adapter for my iPod, which works fine. Also, if we were going to be driving this car regularly, it would need a set of snows. The Jeep is paid off, free and clear. The Sable is free and clear. We're upside-down on the Subaru due to the amount of work that needs to be done on it. Keeping the Jeep is a no-brainer, but what to do with the other two cars? I would say I don't need a third car, but I needed one a couple weeks ago when first the Subie was in the shop and then the Jeep was in the shop. All it would cost me to keep the Sable is $20 a month in insurance, plus the snow tires. I could keep it and just commute with it, thus sparing my wife the danger and embarrassment of riding in a car with a developing hole in the floor. But if I'm going to keep it as a commuter, the Jeep will sit idle a lot because my wife doesn't like driving it. And I've only got a two-car garage, so one vehicle would have to sit out all winter and get covered in snow and ice, and potentially get mouse-infested. Sell the Sable? Keep the Sable? I need some fresh eyes on this first-world dilemma. WSYAI?
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Sep 22, 2016 00:28
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Torque and a cheap Bluetooth obdii reader. Clear the code as needed. $30 out of pocket if you have Android already. Your O2 sensors can be swapped easy enough, the CELs might be as simple as exhaust system leaks up or down stream of the sensors.
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Sep 22, 2016 00:36
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What's this about spark plug non-foulers and how they can fix 05 Subaru o2 sensor problems?
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Sep 22, 2016 01:21
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