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Well god drat, Honda just had to go and think of everything, didn't they?
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Sep 25, 2016 02:32
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:07 |
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I've got HPTuners but really to me it's just irritating that the fully-reset baseline is that far off. Not like I have a cam or any other mods that make it idle poorly.
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Sep 25, 2016 03:15
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the problem is, the IACV on most cars is just a bipolar 2 phase stepper motor running the idle pintle in and out on a leadscrew. It has no position sensor, no limit switches, nothing. So when the ECU wakes up from a coma it kinda has to learn to walk again, because it has no idea where the IACV is right now and no idea what this particular motor with this many miles on it and those plugs/wires/dirtyass throttle body/varnished fuel injectors require for a good idle. So it aims for the idle default position that worked when it left the factory, but only after realizing that the thing isn't where it expected it to be (the only way it can find full-closed position is by ramming the pintle into the throttle body orifice, which can take some time if it started really far back 'cause no one's cleaned the TB or manifold in 250k miles), and then it has to relearn and readjust.
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Sep 25, 2016 03:28
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My car is fully DBW, and still has to re-learn how to idle after the battery has been disconnected. It also takes a bit more cranking to get it to fire up that first time. I've been told that key on/engine off and slowly pressing the throttle to the floor, then releasing, will help it re-learn the throttle body quicker, but I've never noticed a difference in how it drives when I do that. Seems like zero difference in how long it takes to start too, so I don't bother. It's not like I disconnect the battery or reset the ECU often. If anything, it's a bit more bitchy than stuff I've owned with a proper throttle body and IACV. It seems to figure the idle out in about 30 seconds though. It gets a hunting idle if the throttle body is remotely dirty too, cleaning the throttle body is basically an every 30k job.
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Sep 25, 2016 04:53
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GOD drat COOLING SYSTEM  Water pump failed. According to the stack of records, it was done only about 24k miles and just over two years ago, being the last job (other than an oil change) the PO had a shop do out of a long, long list of repairs. It decided to leak from the bearing seal, but seemingly only when things got lined up right. I'd never see it leak under pressure, and would only come out to a ~dollar bill sized puddle of coolant underneath the Jeep every few days. Once I got the pump off there was a telltale stain all over the bottom side of the snout from dried coolant. It was also either a cheap aftermarket pump or possibly a Mopar OE, since those seem to be the only ones with plastic impellers. The $45 new ACDelco I put on has a metal impeller. There's also a bit of wetness up on the top of the engine where the coolant temperature sensor sits. Looks like the shop might've R&R'd it, poorly, because it seemed like it had somewhat fresh sealant on top of the 13-year-old factory sealant. Wire brushed it off and slapped some Teflon paste on it. Overall the job isn't too bad, I just work slowly so as to avoid smashing up plastic bits, plus the tedium of bleeding the fucker. The petcock (heh) is also useless for the intended goal of being able to drain the coolant in a reusable manner. When open, more coolant goes out around the knob itself than through the petcock, so the vast majority runs down the oily / dusty / muddy front bumper and picks up all kinds of poo poo I'm not putting in the cooling system. I maybe saved about 1/4 of a gallon of otherwise quite fresh coolant. Plus side, the inside of that timing cover is quite clean. No signs of erosion or undue amounts of poo poo floating around in there. Also, the WJ idles perfectly the first time after having the battery disconnected for hours.  That first R->D shift is damned sharp, though!
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Oct 24, 2016 23:11
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They may have pulled the temp sensor to bleed the air out of the cooling system while filling. I know I've done that before, not sure if it will work well on a 4.7L.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:15
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TEKTON master race  An okay brand that may use the same Harbor Freight factories, but pays for considerably higher QC. Perfect for the cost conscious or homegamer, who won't be depending on the shits for daily use but don't want to spend full market price on a specialty tool that will be used once.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:22
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kastein posted:They may have pulled the temp sensor to bleed the air out of the cooling system while filling. I know I've done that before, not sure if it will work well on a 4.7L. Maybe, but the actual bleed plug is practically right next to it, is higher, and can be accessed without yanking the alternator. Doesn't excuse them for being lazy and not cleaning off the old sealant and just glopping new poo poo on top of it. Metal Geir Skogul posted:TEKTON master race I went ahead and got four full sets of their sockets when I picked up my Milwaukee 3/8 impact - regular and deep in inch and metric. Wasn't enough room to use it on this job and none of the fasteners involved needed more than a quick tug to break loose, but they have quickly become my go-to socket sets whether or not I'm using a rattlegun.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:52
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Woke up to a strong rotten egg smell in the garage. Apparently the battery in the C10 got tired of having a tender try to keep it alive. drat thing was warm to the touch, even.
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Nov 15, 2016 15:51
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What kind of tender? I've been using KeyLine's 750mA tender for a few years with no issues. I used to use Battery Tenders, but I didn't like the wall wart on the low end ones.
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Nov 15, 2016 19:43
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Black & Decker BC15BD. I suspect part of the problem is I've been mashing the 'charge' button every once in a rare while, including last night. This battery has been marginal at best for a few months. Lesson learned - once the battery is trash, it's trash. Take it off the tender.
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Nov 15, 2016 20:47
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I think I might have to set this as a good target / reason to get my truck fully roadworthy and highway safe. Which means new tires on top of everything else, and I think I might finally bite the bullet on the 5-lug swap to do so.
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Nov 17, 2016 19:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think I might have to set this as a good target / reason to get my truck fully roadworthy and highway safe. Which means new tires on top of everything else, and I think I might finally bite the bullet on the 5-lug swap to do so. I concur. They'll appreciate that vehicle.
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Nov 18, 2016 05:40
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I worked on the C10!  I have nearly no pictures to show for it since my hands were covered in brake fluid most of the time, but... I worked on it!  Bled the brakes today, and in doing so found a number of leaks. Biggest one was the short hardline in the front brakes - from the proportioning valve, one line comes down on the driver's side and tees into two. The short one runs to the driver's side, and it was leaking at the flare fitting going into the soft line. The fitting, being original and having been mucked with a few too many times, was this close to being fully rounded. Since I had some 3/16 copper line and the correct fittings laying around, I just rebuilt the stub line and replaced it. That inline flaring tool is a loving godsend. I also *gasp* ordrered new wheels and tires... only to find out that one of the wheels I was going to use on the rear is out of stock, out of production, and they can't give me any date whatsoever (months, even) on when it will be back in stock. I was going to go 17x8 and 17x9.5 to try and keep a bit more sidewall, but really the tire selection in both 17" and 18" just sucks for large diameters. I've got a feeler out to a vendor for their Black Friday pricing on these wheels:  20x8 and 20x9.5. Going to go with 245/45R20 and 275/40R20. Loads of sticky tires available in those sizes. I should go ahead and order the parts I need for a minimal 5-lug swap. New front rotors, new pads, new rear axles, new rear drums, new shoes and hardware. Luckily I have a late '70 axle, so I can just use stock 1971-2 shafts instead of the custom 5-lug shafts needed for '67-early '70 axles. Feels good to be working on it again.
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Nov 24, 2016 07:59
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Saw a '71-'72 C30 hauling a fifth wheel trailer with a goddamn tractor on it today. Glad to see some of these trucks still pulling heavy duty work. Oh, what was I driving?  I borrowed the battery from the only good PT Cruiser a dead one and it took a jump from the WJ to get it fired up, but it worked. Drove it 5 miles down the road to get another new battery on the original ~1976 Firestone Forever battery warranty. Swapped it in, drove home, then put the 4-year-old in it and took her for a ride around the block to get a soda. She was grinning the whole drat time. With the stainless brake lines, and a proper full bleed, the brakes are actually halfway decent now. I ordered the parts I need for the five-lug swap, and most of them already showed up. Still need to finalize an order for wheels and tires once I do that swap, though.
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Nov 27, 2016 05:42
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Hell yeah.  You give the other dude a wave?
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Nov 27, 2016 06:00
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I would've, if I'd bothered to find the rest of my interior handles. On the driver's side I've got either an interior door release or a window winder, not both  I'm sure it's around the garage somewhere, worst case these things are super loving cheap as repros. Even then they're basically indistinguishable from the garbage metal GM used to make them in the first place.To-do list looks something like this for items that are actually on my radar:
Long-term would still include things like a front crossmember replacement, trailing arm or 4-link rear suspension, big brake kits front and rear, maaaaaaaaaaaaybe airbags, and a full strip and repaint. So yeah, mostly pipedream poo poo.
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Nov 27, 2016 07:39
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Nice, good to see the C10 getting the dust blown off it. I'm gonna take mine out today. Haven't driven it since I got a new toy this summer.
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Nov 27, 2016 16:12
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Where I started tonight: The clamp wasn't permanent, I added it only after the hacky bent bracket finally let the cable pop loose for the first time in over 8000 miles. Where I am now:   Lokar late LS1 bracket and LS1 cable. Mostly done. Had to grab a couple of fender washers since the firewall hole was too big for the cable. In the category of "hot rod poo poo never goes perfectly", the ferrule of the cable fouls ever so slightly on the intake manifold. Won't be an issue but it means I need to cut the inner cable a bit on the short side so that the adjuster is as far forward as possible. I still have a ways to go in trimming the cable down. It's actually a drat pain to snip the inner cable.
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Dec 1, 2016 07:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:... "hot rod poo poo never goes perfectly"... Ain't that the drat truth. Your belt looks a bit manky in the small bit I can see in the second picture unless I'm just not sure what I'm looking at (not out of the realm of possibilities). Might wanna take a look at that when you do the fluids and filters.
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Dec 1, 2016 16:52
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I think that's just the light / HDR on my phone being weird. The belt's definitely in better shape than the one on the WJ I drove to work today I wonder if the fouling-on-the-manifold is due to a one-year parts combo I have. 1997-2000 LS1s have the original LS1 intake manifold, and since mine is from a Camaro, it's an LS1 intake with EGR provisions. 2001-2004 LS1s in all vehicles have LS6 intake manifolds without EGR. 1997-1999 LS1s have a 3" throttle cam, 2000-2004 LS1s have a 3.5" throttle cam. So I've got the one year of LS1 that would have the Camaro EGR intake manifold, but the larger throttle cam. The amount it fouls by is minimal, and somewhat self-clearancing in that it made a bit of a gouge in the plastic manifold before I noticed it. 
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Dec 1, 2016 17:23
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Self-clearancing! That's the best kind!  Your one-year silliness sounds like my luck. "I had a 10 percent chance of this bullshit happening and I loving nailed it." If I'm seeing things right, it looks like you might be able to rig up some kind of spacer between the aluminum(?) mount and the plastic intake, yeah?
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Dec 1, 2016 17:31
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I could space it out, but then the throttle cable wouldn't be lined up with the cam and I'd be worried about it chafing / wearing eventually. All it really means is I don't have the full range of the adjuster available. If it comes down to it, I can cut down the ferrule on the end of the cable, since that's what's actually interfering with the manifold, and I don't think it needs to be as long as it is.
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Dec 1, 2016 17:37
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Ah, yeah. The cam's got a pretty good taper on it that's probably designed for just such bullshittery, but why put the additional stress on it if you don't have to, right? Agreed on 'adjusting' the ferrule.
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Dec 1, 2016 17:53
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I kid you not - shortly after lunch I had the UPS truck, USPS truck, and FedEx truck all in a line outside my house. 275 doesn't always mean the same thing, apparently  275/40R20 on the left, 245/45R20 on the right. The fronts are technically eight hundredths of an inch taller but eyeballing it I can't tell the difference, which is fine by me. Apparently the fronts are the factory fitment on a Scat Pack Challenger, the rears are the factory fitment on a Hellcat. That'd explain the many choices in cheap sticky rubber.  20x8 front  20x9.5 rear. Dat lip. Nobody will mistake these wheels for much more expensive ones, but at under $1k for a full set, after tax, shipped to my door, I have absolutely no complaints.
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Dec 3, 2016 05:37
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Ooooh dang. 245s/275s are what I have stuffed under the Nova. Same sidewalls too, just on 17s. So what's involved in the 5 lug swap, just axle shafts and front hubs?
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Dec 3, 2016 05:45
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Front is a rotor swap to the stock '71-'80 rotor - the 6-lug I have on is a custom piece, but it fits like a factory rotor. Hub and rotor are combined on the factory-style brakes on the C10. Rear is axle shafts and drums. Luckily I have a late '70 axle, which is the same width as the '71-'72 axle (and possibly later years) so I can use the cheap stock axle shafts. '67-early '70 trucks have a narrower axle and need custom axles... which aren't hugely expensive, but still more spendy than some Dorman parts. They also need wheels with a shitload of negative offset, or spacers, to get the wheels anywhere near the body. Going to do wheel bearings all around while I'm at it. None of them have any problems, and the rears are probably the 46-year-old originals, but I doubt they'd take a new shaft well. Fronts are 15 years old and about 50k miles and it's just not even worth the effort to transfer them to a new rotor.
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Dec 3, 2016 05:56
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Smart man. Those tires and wheels are going to look awesome. 20's on those trucks are the max that looks acceptable, imho.
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Dec 3, 2016 16:41
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sharkytm posted:Smart man. Those tires and wheels are going to look awesome. 20's on those trucks are the max that looks acceptable, imho. 
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Dec 3, 2016 20:07
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If sticky tires in reasonable sizes existed for 17" and 18" wheels, I'd do that. But for the ideal size of 17s there's pretty much only one set of tires even made in both sizes, and it's not going to be anything like this stuff.
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Dec 4, 2016 03:56
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Mounted and balanced, along with new TPMS sensors in the WJ's wheels: I'm happy with the amount of sidewall on these tires, at least sitting on their own. Now I can start swapping parts without worrying about not having anything to lower the truck back down onto Also did an oil change and a transfer case fluid change on the WJ. The transfer case is looking decently wet, but it wasn't low on fluid by any notable amount. As soon as I pulled the fill plug (admittedly with it on a slight incline) fluid came out, and it only holds about a quart anyway. I can't decide if it's crapped another rear output seal or if it's the breather seal up on top. Whatever it is, it's a slow leak that doesn't ever leave any drops, just coats the whole area around the slip yoke in a fine mist of dust and fluid.
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Dec 12, 2016 18:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:Whatever it is, it's a slow leak that doesn't ever leave any drops, just coats the whole area around the slip yoke in a fine mist of dust and fluid. That's the standard equipment rust-preventer.
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Dec 12, 2016 18:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:
There is a little rubber plug on top of the tcase/tail housing that leaks after time. Take it out clean it off and put a lil rtv on it and it Will help stop that leak. And if you ever have trans questions about it I work with a guy who was sent to Chrysler trans school for that trans and tcase set up.
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Dec 12, 2016 20:45
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Fermented Tinal posted:That's the standard equipment rust-preventer. Too bad it isn't needed in AZ. Only rust this thing has is the ubiquitous nasty D30 spring perches on the front, and even then they just look ugly - they're still structurally sound. clam ache posted:There is a little rubber plug on top of the tcase/tail housing that leaks after time. Take it out clean it off and put a lil rtv on it and it Will help stop that leak. And if you ever have trans questions about it I work with a guy who was sent to Chrysler trans school for that trans and tcase set up. Yeah, I'm pretty sure this is where it's coming from. If I get some time aside from working on the C10 to get it ready for the Roadkill event, I'll probably give that a shot at the same time as the spark plugs (which are due in about 1k miles, but I'll do them as soon as I have time and a cold engine).
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Dec 12, 2016 20:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Buy the spark plug socket with the flex joint built in. It makes doing those plugs a lot easier. The back ones are a pain to get too.
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Dec 13, 2016 01:33
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 Effort post later, but... One down, three to go.
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Jan 3, 2017 00:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Ooh, those are gonna look good. How much of a drop do you have on that thing?
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Jan 3, 2017 05:04
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2.5" front via spindles, 4" rear using aftermarket leaf springs. I haven't settled these out yet but I could possibly see going an inch lower up front with coil springs. When I had that up in the air I thought I might want spacers, but at ride height they're right where they should be. I need to cycle the suspension and make sure they won't rub but I should be good. Passenger side, old rotor already removed. Looks like the inner seal was on its way out on both - there was a little grease seepage. Suppose that's to be expected after 17 years. I just realized that I've had this truck over half of my life, not counting the years before it became "mine". Another 8 years or so before I'm the longest owner, though.   Driver's side all shiny with 5x5 instead of 6x5.5.   Happy with everything so far, now I just need to do the rears and bed everything in. Oh, and finish the throttle cable (it's hooked up but no WOT).
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Jan 3, 2017 07:54
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So long Radial T/As.
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Jan 3, 2017 15:02
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| # ? May 24, 2024 17:07 |
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Two steps forward, one step back While backing the truck into the driveway to re-center it in the garage so I can pull the axles, I'm pretty sure I felt a rub at full lock.  I'll need to get under there and figure out where.I have also never, ever had my rear end completely kicked by loving wheel studs before. Holy poo poo these things are awful.  Gear oil drained, cross shaft from the center of the diff removed. Took a slight bit of hammering to get it to pop free. For any rear-end experts heh, does any of this wear look like anything to be concerned about? The odds are quite good that this is the first time in 47 years the diff has been apart even this much.  More angles.   Push the axle in a bit, pop the C-clip off...  Inside edge of the driver's axle shaft.  Hard to see, but there's some definite pitting and scoring on the axle shaft where it rides in the bearing. I was probably going to end up needing to do this job anyway from the look of things.  Time to compare shafts ha. I measured and I should have the same width as a stock '71+ truck...  Why's it shorter? If it's wrong it should be too long! No wheel studs   Here's what pulling the axle left me. Axle seal was clearly not doing its job anymore, but again, 47 loving years old. Rubber only lasts so long.  Ended up using a prybar on the seal and took a total of three hits on the bearing with a slide hammer. Popped right out.  Trashed seal and bearing.  New bearing and seal drove in super easy now that I have an actual bearing/seal driver set. $30 very well spent.  So those motherfucking wheel studs:  Ended up being a total of four trips to Autozone: 1. First store only had five - bought them all and went to the next store. 2. Next store had another five, bought them and went home. Only when I got home I realized that one of the studs they gave me was off by one on the part number and was completely different. 3. Went back to that store to exchange it, and dump out my used oil jugs. I then spent waaaaay too loving long trying to either pull these things in with a lug nut and washers, or press them in with a C-clamp. No dice. 4. Drove halfway across town to the nearest 24-hour Autozone to rent a ball joint press, which you see above. Even with that, my M12 impact can't do a drat thing with it, and it's too late at night to be running the air impact. It takes all of my weight standing on the shaft and the press, while pulling on a breaker bar as hard as I can, to both lift me up slightly and make a tiny bit of progress. The real solution here would be a a hudrolick press, but I am not Finnish and do not have one. I made it through four studs, two of which could still use another bit more pushing, before I gave up for the night. I have the studs sitting in the freezer overnight and will hit the goddamned thing with the airgun tomorrow. If that doesn't work I'll probably end up swinging by the Firestone that did the tires and battery and having them press the studs in.
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Jan 8, 2017 09:06
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