|
Bad Munki posted:Why are mommy and daddy fighting I think I may have posted my LED experiences earlier in the thread, but I used a set of the Phillips InstantFit LEDs in my basement and have been really please with them. They work with a newer style electronic ballast. Apparently you can also get lights that are "direct wire" and meant to have the ballast completely removed, so you're plugging them into 120v. There are supposedly trade-offs either way. There are also the fully-integrated shop-lights that have LEDs built in, but I'd avoid those. What I will say is that from my experience the fully integrated LED shop-lights all seem to have worse Lumens/Watt than the replacement bulbs, in addition to limited color temps and (at least much more noticeable) flickering. Apparently LED burn-in color shift is also a real thing, so I wouldn't want to commit to not being able to replace the bulbs (even if it would still have a lifespan approaching a decade).
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 18:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 05:25 |
|
|
I've got an issue that I'm having trouble getting my head around. I need to cut a 30 degree chamfer along the edge of a 1x12, about 18 inches long. My table saw tilts to 45 degrees, so that's not going to work. I can hold the piece up along the fence, but it dips down into the throat as I pass the blade. I've attached a picture of what I'm talking about. Any help is appreciated. http://i.imgur.com/pdrzz5t.png
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 21:01
|
|
|
Build a temporary support jig you can clamp to the table and run your stock through.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 21:06
|
|
|
What about making a zero-clearance insert? Or use a router table with a chamfer bit?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 21:07
|
|
|
Why not just use a normal saw and hand plane?
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 22:05
|
|
|
Loopyface posted:... it dips down into the throat as I pass the blade. That's odd. It's the same operation as making raised panels on a table saw, commonly done. If the throat on your saw is freakishly large then you'll need a ZCI. Zero Clearance Insert
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 22:23
|
|
|
The Shinto "rasp" is great, but it functions more like a bunch of tiny saw blades. The cut is very aggressive even on the fine side, especially on softer woods. You can easily get tear out going against the grain. I use it for starting guitar neck carving but switch to a real rasp pretty quickly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 4, 2016 23:19
|
|
|
wormil posted:That's odd. It's the same operation as making raised panels on a table saw, commonly done. If the throat on your saw is freakishly large then you'll need a ZCI. Zero Clearance Insert Agreed. Which you can make yourself with a scrap of 1/4" plywood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 00:03
|
|
|
wormil posted:That's odd. It's the same operation as making raised panels on a table saw, commonly done. If the throat on your saw is freakishly large then you'll need a ZCI. Zero Clearance Insert I have a rigid contractor saw and the stock insert plate is metal but rather flimsy. If you try to run something through that is tall and narrow enough that it isn't supported by the table and rests just on the insert plate it will sag down. Not that common for me to run into that scenario but one day I'll get around to making a reinforced zero clearance plate.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 00:48
|
|
|
Squibbles posted:I have a rigid contractor saw and the stock insert plate is metal but rather flimsy. If you try to run something through that is tall and narrow enough that it isn't supported by the table and rests just on the insert plate it will sag down. Not that common for me to run into that scenario but one day I'll get around to making a reinforced zero clearance plate. Some saws are a pain to make a zero clearance insert for (like mine. Too much material has to come out for anything but phenolic to work), but you can just throw a scrap of plywood on the saw, clamp it down and raise the blade through it to make a zero clearance.. plate? Works great. Even 1/4" ply will work just fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 01:42
|
|
|
If anyone doesn't know, the new Festool sander is on sale today for $99 free shipping. I forgot to grab the link but it's in the tool thread.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 01:50
|
|
|
I just blew 4 hours turning the most absurd mallet I've ever seen on my lathe and can't wait to get my camera from the office tomorrow so I can show it off.runaway pancake posted:The Shinto "rasp" is great, but it functions more like a bunch of tiny saw blades. The cut is very aggressive even on the fine side, especially on softer woods. You can easily get tear out going against the grain. I use it for starting guitar neck carving but switch to a real rasp pretty quickly.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 01:53
|
|
|
It's not that the insert is flexing, it's that when I have the blade tilted to 30° there's enough of a gap between the blade and the insert slot that the workpiece will slip down. I have a zero clearance insert but can't use it when I'm making angled cuts. I'll just fab up a jig, thanks. Edit: VV Yeah, that makes sense. Loopyface fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Oct 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 01:54
|
|
|
Loopyface posted:It's not that the insert is flexing, it's that when I have the blade tilted to 30° there's enough of a gap between the blade and the insert slot that the workpiece will slip down. I have a zero clearance insert but can't use it when I'm making angled cuts. Use plywood and make one for this angled cut
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 02:01
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:I just blew 4 hours turning the most absurd mallet I've ever seen on my lathe and can't wait to get my camera from the office tomorrow so I can show it off. Holding you to this!
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 02:08
|
|
|
Trabant posted:Holding you to this!  Also gently caress turning red oak again, that poo poo is rough on the turning tools and tears out like a motherfucker.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 03:00
|
|
|
GEMorris posted:What's your current drill situation? I have a cordless drill as well as a benchtop drill press that works pretty decently. I bought the drill press after making my workbench using plans that required drilling a bunch of 3/8" holes through 4x4 cedar legs. The old NiCd batteries in my cordless are....not great....and I could practically hear the drill slowing in real time as it was desperately trying to bore through.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 03:28
|
|
|
I have a cheap corded drill that does the same thing, with the added benefit of the bits being those hexagonal quick-fit type that frequently leave the drill bit lodged in the wood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 03:49
|
|
|
wormil posted:If anyone doesn't know, the new Festool sander is on sale today for $99 free shipping. I forgot to grab the link but it's in the tool thread. Saw that. Is there any reason I'd want that over the existing dewalt I have other than that it says festool on the side? I mean like if it has superior dust evacuation or will massage my shoulders at the end of the day or something.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 03:49
|
|
|
Bad Munki posted:Saw that. Is there any reason I'd want that over the existing dewalt I have other than that it says festool on the side? I'll let you know sometime in November. I have a 5" PC that my wife bought me to replace the one she burnt up by pressing down really hard while sanding floors. Of course the replacement is a cheap model compared to the one she burnt up. So I could use a good sander.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 04:11
|
|
|
Can't speak for that particular one, but both the Rotex and ETS-EC that I've used heavily have really, really good dust removal, assuming you've got them hooked to a vac. The pad brake is a pretty nice feature, too.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 04:58
|
|
|
I need to make a bunch of small drawers (~ 1.5" tall) and am mulling over two options. 1. box joints 2. drawer lock joint Either one can be made on the tablesaw or router. I feel like the drawer lock would be quickest and least fuss. And I'm leaning heavily that direction but I have never made drawers with that joint so it could be fussier than I imagine. You can even buy a router bit for $40 that does both sides with the same setup. Anyone used one of these or have a preference?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 05:41
|
|
|
wormil posted:I need to make a bunch of small drawers (~ 1.5" tall) and am mulling over two options. That's a lot of metal to be spinning around @ 15k rpm or whatever in a 5 pound router. Just imo. It always makes me nervous to put a bigass bit into a router, even though I've got some bigass bits. I had something similar to that that cut a full locking miter using a shaper and used it for a single job. Also, I'm not visualizing how you'll cut the fronts with any control if it doesn't have a bearing or something*? Set the fence 1 1/2" off center and God will provide? Challenging. *Which obviously, it can't have to cut right, but idk good luck I guess?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 16:08
|
|
|
I'm taking the roof off my house and adding a second storey in the spring, so Dad and I decided to make the windows in advance so we could just fit them as soon as it's being made wind-and-watertight. We've made six of the seven, so far, and only had one fitting where the sash was exactly the amount bigger than the frame than it should have been smaller.  The delight of opening and closing the windows we've made, which only a couple of days earlier had been fairly rough timber, has yet to wear off. If I never have to work out how to fit another espagnolette, however, it shall be far too soon.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 16:38
|
|
|
I bought the dreadful cobbled together drop leaf table for it's wood. Only question is what the hell kind of wood is it?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 16:53
|
|
|
learnincurve posted:I bought the dreadful cobbled together drop leaf table for it's wood. Only question is what the hell kind of wood is it? Well first thing is to sand it down to see the untreated wood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 16:56
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:Also, I'm not visualizing how you'll cut the fronts Rockler has a great video on how they work. Adjoining sides use the same setup and it's much simpler than a lock miter set.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 17:37
|
|
|
nielsm posted:Well first thing is to sand it down to see the untreated wood. Not here yet. Kind of feel bad insulting this because it was clearly made with love by someone's granddad in a shed, which it the other side to European carpentry. But it is an ugly misshapen monster. Seller has a load of decent stuff detailed as oak or mahogany and then this which is labelled as "wood". "Legs" look to be oak and that would make sense if it's older than 20 years, top could be anything because I doubt the person who made the frame could round off the edges like that. I bet it's oak though, not lucky enough for it to be mahogany. It is worse at a distance. 
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 19:08
|
|
|
learnincurve posted:Not here yet. Kind of feel bad insulting this because it was clearly made with love by someone's granddad in a shed, which it the other side to European carpentry. But it is an ugly misshapen monster. Seller has a load of decent stuff detailed as oak or mahogany and then this which is labelled as "wood". "Legs" look to be oak and that would make sense if it's older than 20 years, top could be anything because I doubt the person who made the frame could round off the edges like that. I bet it's oak though, not lucky enough for it to be mahogany. Can't tell poo poo from a picture like that but the top looks like maple/birch family wormil posted:Rockler has a great video on how they work. Adjoining sides use the same setup and it's much simpler than a lock miter set. I got to remember all this stuff is in online videos somewhere now.  
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 19:21
|
|
|
Looks like my craftsmanship TBH. Well, more like my dad's. "Workbench is tipping? Just screw some four foot pontoons to it!"
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 19:21
|
|
|
learnincurve posted:Not here yet. Kind of feel bad insulting this because it was clearly made with love by someone's granddad in a shed, which it the other side to European carpentry. But it is an ugly misshapen monster. Seller has a load of decent stuff detailed as oak or mahogany and then this which is labelled as "wood". "Legs" look to be oak and that would make sense if it's older than 20 years, top could be anything because I doubt the person who made the frame could round off the edges like that. I bet it's oak though, not lucky enough for it to be mahogany. I stared at this a long time before figuring out what might be going on there. Do the two end-legs fold in and the tops fold down?
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 19:29
|
|
|
In theory it's a gate leg drop leaf table. Ones you would usually see have barley twist or tapering legs and not planks and they are usually oval, but square is not uncommon. fold up like a concertina.  e: if it's oak the wood is worth about £100, if it's not oak it's worth considerably more. learnincurve fucked around with this message at 19:42 on Oct 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 19:38
|
|
|
Speaking of tables, anyone have any good ideas for leaf designs? I want to build a table with either a split middle that will accept a leaf or maybe the kind where the leaf pulls out of the ends. I'm having some difficulty in visualising how exactly to do the pull apart bit without resorting to metal hardware/kits or making a structurally unsound table. This would be just a basic 4 leg with aprons style dinner table.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 20:45
|
|
|
Woodgoons, I am in the market for a good quality planer. Used is ok, and price is not too much of a concern. Any brands or types I should be looking for or specifically avoiding? Just looking for suggestions to get the search started. This will go into a shop my dad and I have been putting together to work on various wood projects. We have come to the point where we are wasting too much time trying to sand stuff flat. I expect it to be used a couple times a week for many years to come. Any suggestions are appreciated. Edit: I should clarify, I am not looking for a corded portable planer, I am looking for something that can handle up to 18" (or so) and is suitable for shop work. The Pigeon fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Oct 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 22:03
|
|
|
Easy answer, look on ebay for a Stanley record no 5.  All planes new or old will also need sharpening.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 22:36
|
|
|
The Pigeon posted:Woodgoons, I am in the market for a good quality planer. Used is ok, and price is not too much of a concern. Any brands or types I should be looking for or specifically avoiding? Just looking for suggestions to get the search started. This will go into a shop my dad and I have been putting together to work on various wood projects. We have come to the point where we are wasting too much time trying to sand stuff flat. I expect it to be used a couple times a week for many years to come. Any suggestions are appreciated. 18" gets into the pricey department, and most stuff that size is quality you'll likely pay a few grand for. Keep a weather eye out on craigslist. If you're into that sort of thing, I'd bet surface sander of that size plans are out there. That seems like a good tool to build. edit, idk where you live, but here's the magic craigslist formula in google 18" planer site:craigslist.org Mr. Mambold fucked around with this message at 22:46 on Oct 5, 2016 |
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 22:42
|
|
|
wormil posted:I need to make a bunch of small drawers (~ 1.5" tall) and am mulling over two options. The Pigeon posted:Woodgoons, I am in the market for a good quality planer. Used is ok, and price is not too much of a concern. Any brands or types I should be looking for or specifically avoiding? Just looking for suggestions to get the search started. This will go into a shop my dad and I have been putting together to work on various wood projects. We have come to the point where we are wasting too much time trying to sand stuff flat. I expect it to be used a couple times a week for many years to come. Any suggestions are appreciated. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-13-in-Thickness-Corded-Planer-R4331/100634358 http://www.grizzly.com/products/15-Planer/G0453W?utm_campaign=zPage http://www.grizzly.com/products/20-Planer/G0454W?utm_campaign=zPage It's also worth noting that planers don't make things flat, they just make them parallel. If you've got a warped piece of wood and you pass it through a surface planer, you'll have a very smooth and parallel warped piece of wood coming out the other side (sorry if you knew that, I don't mean to be a dick, it's just a common misconception).
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 22:44
|
|
|
Thanks for all the replies. Hypnolobster posted:... Totally not being a dick. I appreciate the input and know exactly what you meant and what planers do. As far as the grizzlys are concerned, I have found several on craigslist and they seem to hover in the $1000 range for the 20" version. Is this what one would expect to pay? I cant imagine they depreciate too much assuming they are in working condition. Mr. Mambold posted:18" gets into the pricey department, and most stuff that size is quality you'll likely pay a few grand for. Keep a weather eye out on craigslist. If you're into that sort of thing, I'd bet surface sander of that size plans are out there. That seems like a good tool to build. learnincurve posted:Easy answer, look on ebay for a Stanley record no 5. Alas, I am not manly enough to get away with using the Stanley record no 5. I shall now hang my head in shame.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 23:25
|
|
|
The Pigeon posted:Thanks for all the replies. I'd be on that like stink on poo poo if it ran at all, that is major tool theft of the year territory. Typical prices are closer to 2500-4000, no joke. edit- grizzlys are generally very good and comparable to the high-end U.S. companies.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 23:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 31, 2024 05:25 |
|
|
$1000 for a used 20" Grizzly is super good if it's in good shape. If you go used and get a great deal, a drum sander (Supermax 19-38, as an example) will let you go way wider as well. They're great to have around in general. For the used market, it's hard to go wrong with any of the 20" planers as long as they're in good shape. It gets a little muddier for 15" planers because there are tons of different knockoffs of the same design.
|
|
#
?
Oct 5, 2016 23:34
|
|