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MisterGoGo
Jun 16, 2015

The Lemondrop Dandy posted:

I looooove your mold, but I was wondering how translucent it was IRL. My medical wife said that the color in the last picture was much better but was wondering how translucent it was in person. She's kinda thinking she wants one for both home and work.

Thanks! Yea the first one I did was more purple/blue and I used a lot more pigment so it is barely translucent. I made the glow in the dark one a bit more pink and less pigmented specifically to get it more translucent so light could get to the phosphorescent powder (and it looks more realistic).

If she wants one I can make it whichever color she'd prefer (send me an image for reference if you'd like) and it can have a 3mm thick translucent finishing layer on the top. I''ll definitely do the due diligence for a medical professional with more discerning taste ;) .

Delivery McGee posted:

I apologize if you've said and I missed it, but what firmness of silicone are you using? Squishy like a live brain (well, as close as you can get, anyway), or kinda stiff like a formaldehyde-cured one?

The one brain I've personally handled was like middlin'-hard rubber, due to being well embalmed. (It was the pig fetus in 10th grade bio class, we got bonus points for getting the brain out intact. And the dissection started on Friday and was continued on Monday, and it was an afternoon class. The smell was not pleasant.)


It's 00-20, kind of like a gummy bear, not quite the pillowy/fatty feel of real brains, but pretty unnerving nonetheless. Any less firm and it would not hold its shape under its own weight (real brains are suspended in fluid and aren't subject to gravity after all) and 00-10 silicone is quite tacky so you'd have a brain covered in dog hair very quickly heh.

The one's I've handled were embalmed in anatomy courses too and those were definitely quite a bit harder than this though. And yea, stinky as hell.

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Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.
How heavy is the brain? Real brains are actually surprisingly heavy

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

MisterGoGo posted:

I've got a few brains for goons approaching completion, shipping this glow in the dark one tomorrow. Looks nice and radioactive and glows like a son of a bitch B)



gross

good job

does it come out that shiny or do you have to topcoat it

Anil Dikshit
Apr 11, 2007
Mine's going in a jar in fluid as soon as I can find a good jar and a fluid that will float it long term without it breaking down. I'm giving it to my brother who evaluates people in crisis for recommended treatments.

MisterGoGo
Jun 16, 2015

Recoome posted:

How heavy is the brain? Real brains are actually surprisingly heavy

Just a bit over 1,300 grams, about the weight of a real one. Whoever owned this one had a brain on a smaller end of the 1,300-1,400 gram spectrum.


the sexual Shiite posted:

Mine's going in a jar in fluid as soon as I can find a good jar and a fluid that will float it long term without it breaking down. I'm giving it to my brother who evaluates people in crisis for recommended treatments.

It's gonna look real good. I have yours here next to my hand ready for the finishing process. I think corn syrup is a good idea still. Nothing besides some pretty strong and/or specific chemicals actually harms this type of silicone. Mancer could probably testify to how tricky cleaning tools/brushes/bowls is. Usually it's easier to buy disposable, which contributes to the cost of a silicone item. You might use $5 in disposable buckets, plastic sheeting, paintbrushes etc. on a complicated object like this brain. Personally when I'm ready to clean I dump my leftover silicone on all the stuff I mucked up and peel it off after it cures.

If you're extra concerned you might consider just applying any kind of clear sealant out there.

Also that's such a cool gift idea!


Fauxtool posted:

gross

good job

does it come out that shiny or do you have to topcoat it

It has a dull sheen when it comes out of the mold then I add a top coat or two. Lets me smooth out defects (there's always at least 6+) and add some dimension to the color.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

MisterGoGo posted:

Mancer could probably testify to how tricky cleaning tools/brushes/bowls is.

Brushes are a total pain, yeah, but I have a tip for the rest: mix your Parts A and B early on in the process, and mix them thoroughly. Measure them both using the same measuring cup. That way, you should have an approximately equal portion of A and B in all of your cups and bowls, and you won't have to work so hard to clean them. I use metal kitchen spoons for stirring, so even if some of the silicone on them doesn't cure, a quick wipe with a paper towel will do the trick.

the popular kids
Dec 27, 2010

Time for some thrilling heroics.
MisterGoGo if you could toss me an email at redacted about ordering a brain? I don't have PM's and I need one for a gift. :v

Bunch of good dicks in this thread.

the popular kids fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Oct 5, 2016

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Got my fish! Thanks, Dildomancer.

I think if I were to order again I'd probably have specified not getting any with the super-floppy firmness. It'd be fine in the hands of an adult, but a five-year-old would be more problematic. Oh well, I only got one at that firmness and I ordered one more fish than I needed, so it works out! :v:

halenaw
Jul 10, 2014
Now I'm kind of worried about the firmness I chose. Dildomancer, is medium firmness pretty much "erect dick" firmness?

I mean, not that I'm gonna actually stick it in my vag or anything I totally will

americong
May 29, 2013


Dildomancer posted:

Holy cow!


Yes, that's still the plan. I am not making any of my old designs. There were a lot of reasons I stopped selling dongs, and drama was a big one, but there was no way I was going to say so on Tumblr and make people feel like it might've been their fault.


In other news, I made a MURKA dong:



I'm fuckin pumped, my puntl is so patriotic

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.



Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

halenaw posted:

Now I'm kind of worried about the firmness I chose. Dildomancer, is medium firmness pretty much "erect dick" firmness?

I mean, not that I'm gonna actually stick it in my vag or anything I totally will

It's a bit softer than that, but you can change it if you want (or send a PM if you want some more info). I can always send you some firmness fish, too, if you want something physical to base your decision on.

MisterGoGo
Jun 16, 2015

the popular kids posted:

MisterGoGo if you could toss me an email at oomykins@gmail.com about ordering a brain? I don't have PM's and I need one for a gift. :v
Message sent!

Just to let everyone know the details since I'm getting so many inquiries:

The brain is 2.25 pounds (1 kilo) of extremely durable, long-lasting platinum cure silicone and coloring, so that's the cost. It's 6.5 inches (16.5 cm) long, 5.5 inches (14 cm) tall. It's perfectly anatomically accurate, taken from an MRI scan. Who the person's brain is, I do not know, but as of the writing of this message the brain is not haunted or cursed. Makes a great desk toy to squish around or toss at unsuspecting friends. Also a great Halloween decoration.

I can color the brain pretty much any way you'd like. People have been choosing between a more purple/pink "fresh" color, and a yellowish "formaldehyde" color. Just let me know.

It ships from Chicago, USA. $10-12 most places in the lower 48.

The early brains I've sent out just covered materials, I'll probably be raising prices soon to $55. $10 extra to make it glow in the dark.

Dildomancer posted:

Brushes are a total pain, yeah, but I have a tip for the rest: mix your Parts A and B early on in the process, and mix them thoroughly. Measure them both using the same measuring cup. That way, you should have an approximately equal portion of A and B in all of your cups and bowls, and you won't have to work so hard to clean them. I use metal kitchen spoons for stirring, so even if some of the silicone on them doesn't cure, a quick wipe with a paper towel will do the trick.
Good idea. Forethought is the whole dang ballgame. Also yea, any tools I buy from here on out are going to be stainless steel.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Wow, you folks really like your squishy fish! I'm gonna have to dedicate a day or two just to making some more in custom colors.

Anyway, a new batch of puntls and fish goes out tomorrow. I've completed 43 orders so far and have 15 to go, so that's some darn good progress. I will also have a handful of "flops" to sell off when I'm done with orders - I'll probably put those on Etsy. Some of them have minor flaws, others just came out in the wrong color, firmness, or glow-in-the-darkness (protip: double-check the order before you start mixing your silicone). With my techniques, I typically end up with <5% flops, but this particular model's closer to 15% thanks to some dumb mistakes on my part.

Canuck-Errant
Oct 28, 2003

MOOD: BURNING - MUSIC: DISCO INFERNO BY THE TRAMMPS
Grimey Drawer
Yeah, if it weren't for being basically between jobs at the moment, I'd already have ordered one. God knows why, though; I don't have any use for one, except perhaps as a coathanger or headphone rack.

Fauxtool
Oct 21, 2008

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
I put my glow fish inside my light fixture. It glows for hours after turning off the light. Its really pleasant

SamsCola
Jun 5, 2009
Pillbug
Three Rings Dongs for the Elven-kings under the sky

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.
Oh, I just remembered - I have a ton of Quarry Tone. If anyone wants a puntl that looks and feels like it's made out of granite, let me know. However, it must be for ornamental purposes only.

SamsCola posted:

Three Rings Dongs for the Elven-kings under the sky



Lookin' gorgeous!

`Nemesis
Dec 30, 2000

railroad graffiti




RandomPauI
Nov 24, 2006


Grimey Drawer

Canuck-Errant posted:

Yeah, if it weren't for being basically between jobs at the moment, I'd already have ordered one. God knows why, though; I don't have any use for one, except perhaps as a coathanger or headphone rack.

Canuck-Errant can have mine since we can't give it to Steven Colbert.

Faerunner
Dec 31, 2007

`Nemesis posted:

Rump Tower

That base does NOT have enough flare to go in a butt. :colbert:

I get paid tomorrow so I can pay for the rest of my fishies :3 I can't wait, I'm going to throw them at people at work and hand them out at Halloween and stuff.

Zil
Jun 4, 2011

Satanically Summoned Citrus


Faerunner posted:

That base does NOT have enough flare to go in a butt. :colbert:

So you're saying it could end up being a pain in your rear end for the next 4 years or so. :downsrim:

MisterGoGo
Jun 16, 2015
Couple of brains going out soon :) I'll probably end up remaking the mold so these babies are easier to make. I've got orders for 9 of them now

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Anil Dikshit
Apr 11, 2007

MisterGoGo posted:

Couple of brains going out soon :) I'll probably end up remaking the mold so these babies are easier to make. I've got orders for 9 of them now



The one on the left is my disembodied brain.

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.


Sometimes really gorgeous things form in your mixing bowl while it goes through the vacuum chamber. I don't know what the finished dong will look like, probably nowhere near as cool as this looks, but mannnnn, totally worth the experiment.

Maera Sior
Jan 5, 2012

Dildomancer, are you still taking orders?

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

Maera Sior posted:

Dildomancer, are you still taking orders?

Yuppo. Shoot me a PM.

mycelia
Apr 28, 2013

POWERFUL FUNGAL LORD



My fish just arrived! :toot: I ordered five, which ended up being a good thing because my girlfriend immediately called dibs on two of them and my sister wants one too. Maybe I should get into the silicon fish business... Anyway, thank you, Dildomancer. This thread's been a helluva ride.

Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010



RandomPauI posted:

Well, I've exhausted all non-lazy methods to find a good home for the one I ordered. If you get an order for whatever you have in stock you can resell mine.

Edit: I forgot to get back to a poster about this yesterday or something. My gently caress-marriage soul-bind theory doesn't require evolution so Elves being intelligently designed isn't a problem. But I thought that Elise's theory explicitly or implicitly required evolution as if they hadn't figured out germ theory and other things yet.

My point was that Elise's theory doesn't necessarily require evolution; presumably when Iluvatar designed the Elves, he also had a grasp on how cells would work etc. because these creatures literally popped into existence on the shores of Cuivienen. Their cellular structure, their respiratory and nervous systems, all these things were explicitly and wholly designed by Iluvatar, and if he wanted to give them some sort of weird antibody-driven monogamy enforcement, he could have done so. No need for evolution.

I still haven't found a reference to infidelity = death, though. It appears to be unprecedented, and even Finwe remarrying with the consent of his dead wife was apparently pretty shocking to the Elves.

So presumably every teenaged male Elf (and Elves off on long military expeditions, etc) had a few inches of soft rope they carried in their pockets, and everyone just kind of looked embarrassed if it fell out while you're getting some money because they all know it's for making a field-expedient cock ring for jerkin' it. It may be a practice the other races learned about and picked up, too, because Gollum guessed that Bilbo had string in his pocket.

Poop Cupcake
Dec 31, 2005

Those brains look so cool, especially with that gooey-looking topcoat.

americong
May 29, 2013




:911:

Carth Dookie
Jan 28, 2013

Ok goldmine time.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Oh no, I have some photos planned. Not yet, sir.

value-brand cereal
May 2, 2008

Every time I click read new posts I five this thread, and I expect the rest of you to do so as well. Even if only one vote is needed and poo poo. Goddamn look a that flag I've never felt so patriotic.

RandomPauI
Nov 24, 2006


Grimey Drawer
i voted five, it's gold now.

Faerunner
Dec 31, 2007
:911: :five:

Simply inspirational, americong. Well done.

`Nemesis
Dec 30, 2000

railroad graffiti
This was from a few weeks ago, but the puntl went to my favorite bar. The bouncer later used it at bar time to intimidate people into leaving.

Pilsner
Nov 23, 2002

Hey Dildomancer do you time to provide some help? I dived in and bought the full equipment required to make dongs like you do. I built my own vacuum chamber (pretty easy actually, about $100 of materials + pump), bought silicone, polymer clay, pigment, bowls, tools, all that.

I live in Europe, so my available materials are a bit different, and Smooth-On products are very expensive. I started out with a PVC cap and "FIMO" polymer clay, a popular clay in Europe. My attempt at modeling a random dong went fine, it's tough to get smooth overall shapes (but easy to get details smooth, no fingerprints and such), but I made something that looked okay. I guess it looks like a duck or something. I baked it at 110 C for 30 mins and it became rock hard like it should - neat, I've never tried baking clay before!

I bought silicone and pigment from a European supplier that makes its own silicone. It appears to be a rather professional shop, but I don't know how it compares to Smooth-On's products of course.

Next was making a mold. I made it from A33 silicone, which I couldn't really degas properly. I think I need a stronger pump - my pump is only 1.8 CFM and I made a 10 liter vacuum chamber, so I'll be investing in a mofo 12 CFM pump instead. I went ahead anyway and poured the mold in spite of myriads of bubbles in the silicone.

Now for the dong creation. I used A10 silicone, made it black with color paste (made for silicone), and degassing it was much easier since it's less viscous. I should still have degassed it a bit more, but it came out quite decently with just a few bubbles in the final dong.

Ta-daa, from model to mold to dong:





Now for a few questions I have:

1) The mold, made from A33 silicone, was quite difficult to cut, and extracting the model was tough. What's your opinion on using A10 for mold making, since it will be a lot more stretchy and possible allow extracting both model and dong without making a cut? I would love to be able to avoid making a cut and not have to deal with seams. I had a quite big seam on the finished dong. I think this is also because I cut sideways AND zig-zag, which makes sort of a flat overlap. I should have only cut perpendickular (couldn't resist) to the model.
2) I used 3-4 coats of release agent inside the mold before pouring the dong, and I could tell it hardened into a sort-of misty-white fog. The finished dong (see picture 2) has a very dull white-ish texture, when I rub my thumb on it, tiny little white specks form, just like pencil eraser, and keep forming even though I washed it with soap. It also reeks of release agent. Is this normal for the very first casting and will the next be better? Did I use too much release agent? Or was it perhaps since I didn't degas my A33 mold silicone properly, so it has tiny cavities inside where the release agent harbors?

The base also has a very uneven transition from dong to base, lots of seam/ridge. Any tips for avoiding this? I used simple silicone baking sheets for forming a cylinder, and secured it with tape, since I couldn't easily find the "mylar sheet" you use.

On the positive side, I guess it didn't turn out too horribly for a first-timer. The suction cup I made (I used a 1/2 dl measuring cup) turned out perfect and is ridiculously strong.

Thanks if you can give me some tips. :)

Dildomancer
Aug 8, 2016

No sense of right or wrong.

`Nemesis posted:

This was from a few weeks ago, but the puntl went to my favorite bar. The bouncer later used it at bar time to intimidate people into leaving.

That's gawjiss <3


Pilsner posted:

Hey Dildomancer do you time to provide some help?

1) The mold, made from A33 silicone, was quite difficult to cut, and extracting the model was tough. What's your opinion on using A10 for mold making, since it will be a lot more stretchy and possible allow extracting both model and dong without making a cut? I would love to be able to avoid making a cut and not have to deal with seams. I had a quite big seam on the finished dong. I think this is also because I cut sideways AND zig-zag, which makes sort of a flat overlap. I should have only cut perpendickular (couldn't resist) to the model.
2) I used 3-4 coats of release agent inside the mold before pouring the dong, and I could tell it hardened into a sort-of misty-white fog. The finished dong (see picture 2) has a very dull white-ish texture, when I rub my thumb on it, tiny little white specks form, just like pencil eraser, and keep forming even though I washed it with soap. It also reeks of release agent. Is this normal for the very first casting and will the next be better? Did I use too much release agent? Or was it perhaps since I didn't degas my A33 mold silicone properly, so it has tiny cavities inside where the release agent harbors?

The base also has a very uneven transition from dong to base, lots of seam/ridge. Any tips for avoiding this? I used simple silicone baking sheets for forming a cylinder, and secured it with tape, since I couldn't easily find the "mylar sheet" you use.

On the positive side, I guess it didn't turn out too horribly for a first-timer. The suction cup I made (I used a 1/2 dl measuring cup) turned out perfect and is ridiculously strong.

Thanks if you can give me some tips. :)

Sure I can help! You've done a great job so far, it seems.

1) I've used three different things for making molds: A10 and A20 Dragon Skin, and Mold Star 30. I have to say, out of the three, the A20 Dragon Skin probably results in the best product. Just be aware it's very viscous and takes a long time to degas. If you can't get Smooth-On products, something that's A20 will work, but A10 is pushing it a bit too far toward the soft end. If you are having trouble extracting, cut your slit farther down. And as for alignment and avoiding the seam, it's more of an art than a science (and I still mess up sometimes after years of practice). Cutting at a slant is supposed to be better for alignment, but it can result in what you have. Here are two tips for you: check the mold with a bright light once you've taped it shut. Any misalignment should be obvious, then you can press with your fingers on the outside of the mold to align it properly. And the second tip is, if possible, to cut that slit along a natural lone on the dong's surface (a fold, crease, or vein). That is MUCH harder but can be done.

2) It looks like you did use too much, yeah. That is a small mistake, but the opposite, using too little, would ruin your mold as well, so don't be too upset. You will only need one coat for the second dong and it will come out much better.

3) For the base, I use more clay to smooth out the transition. If you want, you can trim down your mold with a very sharp knife to achieve the same effect without making a brand new one (see picture). The clay and the PVC will have different textures, which becomes obvious in the final toy. It's never bothered me, but you could fix this by roughing up the PVC with some sandpaper. Would help the clay adhere better, too.

<-- trim off the little flap between the arrows. Subtracting from the mold is effectively the same as adding to the model/toy.

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Pilsner
Nov 23, 2002

Thanks for the tips. :)

I'm really keen on attempting to make what I just learned is called "sock" or "glove" molds, e.i. flexible molds from where the dong can be extracted without cutting. I think a visible seam will ruin the final product, and raises the risk of making a dud.

I just stumbled upon a neat detailed article with quite a different process:

http://blog.polytek.com/2015/07/15/how-to-make-a-rubber-glove-or-sock-mold/

He begins by painting, layer by layer, silicone onto the clay dong - I mean monkey statuette - then surrounds it by PVC pipe, and fills up the void with polyurethane foam to put pressure on the thin mold for later casting. The mold can then be taken out after the cast inside has cured, and peeled off like a glove. Pretty interesting.

I think I will at least experiment with making a one-piece mold using A10 silicone (using your method) and see what happens. Do you think it will flex too much during casting, making an imprecise cast? If I can find some soft PU foam, I might give the method above a shot.

Pilsner fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Oct 10, 2016

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