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If you want an easy to fix cheap and many parts avaliable classic, go get a beetle that's got a solid body and underbody and go to town. There's a shitton of parts for them and they are dead on easy to fix.. there's not much there. I mean they were making type 1 beetles till like what 2001 in brasil?
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Oct 9, 2016 17:55
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Thanks for the info guys!
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Oct 9, 2016 18:38
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tater_salad posted:If you want an easy to fix cheap and many parts avaliable classic, go get a beetle that's got a solid body and underbody and go to town. 2003, Mexico. The New Beetle came out in '94.
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Oct 9, 2016 19:57
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two_beer_bishes posted:Out driving last night and we saw a 40s or 50s car on a trailer. My wife has mentioned several times before that she wants an old car like that after we buy a house and she asked about their reliability and what happens when they break down. I'm sure it depends on the specific year/model, but how tough is it to find parts for older cars like that? Everyone has covered it pretty well, but as long as it's your weekend/hobby car and you have a good AAA plan breaking down will happen and suck but you can go "meh" and get it towed. My attitude about breaking down changed drastically when I started doing backcountry 4x4 stuff way outside of cell reception - if I'm on pavement I don't sweat anything  Find a car you both like that had high production numbers, a good aftermarket and don't get crazy about 100% OEM STOCK FACTORY and you'll have fun.
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Oct 10, 2016 02:50
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Anything chevy can be converted to anything modern with relative easy too. So getting a 70's el camino or whatever and throw a 5.3L at it and drive it like normal is feasible.
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Oct 10, 2016 03:52
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I got pretty used to breakdowns after DD-ing an E30 for 7 years. It will definitely be a weekend car, and I won't care about keeping everything factory original.
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Oct 10, 2016 03:57
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Godholio posted:2003, Mexico. The New Beetle came out in '94. This dude at my high school had a brand new classic Beetle (this was in 95). ... he lived in Mexico and drove across every day, so it was street legal since it was registered and plated in Mexico (there's tons of cars running around El Paso with Mexico plates anyway). IIRC it even had air conditioning, though that probably would have been a dealer installed item. I can't imagine how slow it must have been with the added drag of an ac compressor. The B13 Sentra - which was sold in the US from 90-94 - is still being produced and sold in Mexico as the Nissan Tsuru, largely unchanged, though supposedly they'll be discontinued soon (in Mexico anyway). You can't walk down the street in El Paso without seeing dozens.
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Oct 10, 2016 06:26
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The Beetle died in Mexico due to regulations stating that taxis had to have four doors. Prior to that, sales and production declined due to adding emissions regulations (catalytic converter, but still carbureted, in 1991, fuel injection in 1994). Also, modern compressors (even semi-modern, like in '95) could draw as little as 1hp. At the end of its life, the Mexican beetle made 44hp, which had remained unchanged since 1973. In fact, the 1995 Mexican beetle was the first year to have an alternator instead of a generator. Other than trim changes (they actually went on to remove window molding and chrome in an effort to save money, until the car's final edition in 2003) the engine was untouched.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Oct 10, 2016 |
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Oct 10, 2016 06:39
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2011 Dodge Avenger 2.4L engine, about 14000 miles, bought the car in 2012 as first owner. The car vibrates at highway speed, TPMS light is on saying that my tires are low though the in-dash pressure and using the tool show my pressure is fine. It's especially noticeable while braking even as low as 40 MPH. Googling makes me think I might need an alignment. When I got an oil change it was recommended that I balance and rotate the tires. Does this sound like a problem I can have fixed by my local flat place that says they also do alignments or should I bring it to the dealer? I'm out of warranty now and also wondering for a ball park on cost.
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Oct 10, 2016 15:25
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Car: 2001 Saab 9-5, ~180,000 miles Scenario: Suspension bushing refresh Issue: I bought this suspension bushing kit somewhat hastily and didn't pay attention to the fact that it has the ball joints for the new style control arms, which have 10mm mounting bolts. Being a MY 2001, my car is the last year where it would've been made with the old style 8mm mounting bolts. Officially Saab phased out the old style design and either replaced the control arms or drilled out the mounting holes to accept the new bolts, but aftermarket 8mm ball joints are still available. I don't yet know which holes my control arms have. They should be the 8mm ones, but you never know until you get there. If I owned a drill press there would be no issue, I'd just drill out the holes myself if necessary, but I don't have one. If you were in my position would you: A: Find someone with a drill press and drill out the holes B: Return the incorrectly sized ball joints and order the 8mm ones C: Burn it all to the ground I'm not in a serious rush since my commute is only a mile, but I'm getting tired of not being able to drive my car. Also I'm aware that I might need to get the front control arm bushings pressed out and in.
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Oct 10, 2016 15:52
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rock2much posted:2011 Dodge Avenger 2.4L engine, about 14000 miles, bought the car in 2012 as first owner. I'd check your tires or brakes first. They're coming up on 5 years or more depending on when it was built so you'd be looking at replacing them. They could be cupped or evenly worn, especially if your TPMS is not calibrated. If it gets worse with braking good chance it's a warped rotor.
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Oct 10, 2016 18:15
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SCA Enthusiast posted:Car: 2001 Saab 9-5, ~180,000 miles
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Oct 10, 2016 19:56
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I've got a 58 thunderbird that's been sitting just shy of 30 years. Allegedly it died from....something... before it was parked and no one ever tried to start it again. How bad of an idea is it to just try and fire it up? The motor turns over by hand. ATF was dumped down the spark plug holes about 14 years ago. I'm about halfway tempted to just flush the fluids, pop on some new rubber bits and give it a go. The other option is pull the motor and rebuild it.
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Oct 11, 2016 05:18
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The main issue will be the fuel system. Whatever was in the tank has surely turned into garbage varnish by now, and it probably gunked up the inside of the carb too. But if somehow the carb is fine, you prob don't want to pump that crud all through the carb. So take a look in the gas tank first, and see if it's full of varnish, or rust, or what. You might be fine if you dilute it with good gas, though. I'd probably run a hose from the inlet of the fuel pump to a gas can, just to bypass all that, though. But yeah, if the motor turns, and there's no water in the cylinders, and the crankcase is full of oil and not water, I don't see there being a problem with giving it a shot.
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Oct 11, 2016 05:39
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I'm probably going to just get a new gas tank. The last time the car was touched (that aforementioned 14 years ago) I pulled the gas tank and dumped some nasty poo poo out of it. That was the year I graduated high school. I was going to try and work on it that summer. We dragged it out of my grandfather's garage and brought it to my parents house. Over the course of the summer all I did was pull the rear bumper and gas tank. At the end of the summer back into his garage it went. I've finally got the time, room and possibly money to get it going. I already picked up a rebuild kit for the carb. Eventually I'll rebuild everything, but if I can just get it running without I'd be much happier. Thanks, one guy on the internet, for suggesting I don't have to have the motor rebuilt.
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Oct 11, 2016 14:14
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You probably will, but you can give it a shot first.
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Oct 11, 2016 15:40
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Godholio posted:You probably will, but you can give it a shot first. Yeah I mean it really depends on the condition everything is in. Old Fords are notoriously durable, but we still don't know what happened to it to get it parked up for 30 years. At least it was stored inside. That's a Y-block, right? You should start a thread.
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Oct 11, 2016 22:27
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I thought about starting a thread, but with progress as slow as it has been (NONE in over a decade) I thought that might just be a first post with an awful disappointing follow up. The motor is a 352 "interceptor", an FE. It was the only engine option that year. 1958 was the first big Thunderbird. This is how she is sitting in my barn.  Interior looks pretty good for being 60 years old.  I pulled the fan so I could get to the crank bult and turn it over by hand.  Inspection and registration are a bit out of date. 
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Oct 12, 2016 04:21
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I'd check your tires or brakes first. They're coming up on 5 years or more depending on when it was built so you'd be looking at replacing them. They could be cupped or evenly worn, especially if your TPMS is not calibrated. If it gets worse with braking good chance it's a warped rotor. It was this! Thanks! 4 brake pads and 2 rotors needed replacing.The TPMS light is still on though, no idea what to do about that.
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Oct 12, 2016 05:02
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SPORK08 posted:I thought about starting a thread, but with progress as slow as it has been (NONE in over a decade) I thought that might just be a first post with an awful disappointing follow up. This is glorious, you need to get this running asap.
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Oct 12, 2016 09:27
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SPORK08 posted:I thought about starting a thread, but with progress as slow as it has been (NONE in over a decade) I thought that might just be a first post with an awful disappointing follow up. Ah, first year of the FE. I always forget when the changeover happened, since the Tbird got them before other stuff I think. All I knew was that '57 was Y-block and '60 was FE. Looks like they switched with the body refresh. Also, I was not yet alive when this car was last on the road. Spoopy.  Feel free to make a thread as soon as you're actually working on it. I'm sure there are others besides me who enjoy old Ford content.
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Oct 12, 2016 11:07
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rock2much posted:It was this! Thanks! Looks like the Avenger doesn't have a way to reset it. Make sure it's set to the correct pressure from the door jam label when the tires are cold and then drive it for a bit. If that doesn't work you may have a TPMS sensor that needs replacing, or you can live with it if you check the pressure regularly.
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Oct 12, 2016 11:42
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So I was helping a buddy out with his car a couple days ago and couldn't figure out what's wrong. Car is a 2003 Subaru Outback wagon 5-speed. It had been running fine previously. Battery tested OK at around 12.5 volts. Lights and radio all worked. Turn the key, nothing. No click of a starter relay (though I couldn't find it, so I don't know where to listen to it...), no hum of a fuel pump priming. Starter doesn't try to turn over. A guy with a jeep pulled it while we tried to bump-start it. The engine would turn, but wouldn't catch. At all. Which says to me it isn't getting fuel or spark. I didn't have many diagnosing tools on hand (and it's been towed to a mechanic that's looking at it) so I'm merely curious at this point. My assumption is that it's not getting spark, and this same issue is preventing voltage from getting to the starter solenoid and the fuel pump. Thoughts?
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Oct 12, 2016 14:01
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CornHolio posted:So I was helping a buddy out with his car a couple days ago and couldn't figure out what's wrong. Car is a 2003 Subaru Outback wagon 5-speed. It had been running fine previously. Broken ignition switch? Position 1 enables the lights, position 2 enables the engine ignition, position 3 makes it go 'vroom' spog fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 14:04
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Hello gang, I want to replace both my coolant temperature sensor and the coolant temperture sending unit in my 1999 4.0 sohc explorer. My coolant gauge never worked, and when its cold out my engine runs terribly like its going to stall until it warms up after a minute or so. A mechanic buddy suggested coolant temperature sensor, and since the sending unit is only $15 and located right next to it I might as well install both. I dont feel like waiting for shipping because I want to do it this weekend and luckily advance auto has the parts. But Im a little confused on what to buy. When you punch in my car they give me 3 options and they're all titled the same "CARQUEST by BWD Coolant Temperature Sensor" http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...4224#fragment-1 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...nsor#fragment-2 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...nsor#fragment-2 The reviews for the first one say its a sending unit, the 2nd one has no reviews and the third one has a review saying it was a sending unit, and another that says it was a sensor. I am a little lost right now. Im guessing I want the first two, but what is that 3rd one and why is it so expensive?
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Oct 12, 2016 16:08
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Looks like the Avenger doesn't have a way to reset it. Make sure it's set to the correct pressure from the door jam label when the tires are cold and then drive it for a bit. If that doesn't work you may have a TPMS sensor that needs replacing, or you can live with it if you check the pressure regularly. I think I'll just live with it. It's odd that the correct pressure is reported by the software but it's still blinking that I need to check the pressure. As long as it isn't some kind of vague warning that something horrible is going to happen to the car while I'm driving it.
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Oct 12, 2016 16:33
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spog posted:Broken ignition switch? I thought about that, or maybe the immobilizer. What'd be a good way to test for those?
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Oct 12, 2016 17:54
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CornHolio posted:I thought about that, or maybe the immobilizer. What'd be a good way to test for those? I don't know about your specific car, but don't the idiot lights come on when you move from Pos 1 to Pos 2? I am sure you can find a manual that describes what should come on when the key is in a certain position and check for power with a multimeter at some point with that component (e.g. if the fuel pump is supposed to come on, then it should get power at its terminals) Edit: the correct method is to connect a multimeter to the ignition switch and check the continuity when the key is turned to different positions, but I don't know how easy it is to get to them on your car spog fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 18:03
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Cage posted:Hello gang, What does yours look like? I'd get whichever one looks closest.
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Oct 12, 2016 18:18
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That old Tbird is rad as gently caress.General_Failure posted:Thanks for your help. Unfortunately I'm an idiot. It was close to M8. I realised this after making a trip to grab the nuts. I found an M8 with a flogged out thread that fit nicely. I swapped out the carburettor today anyway. M8 standard threads are what, 1.00 and 1.25? And M8 is within a gnat's eyelash of 5/16. 5/16 standard threads are -24tpi (1.06mm) and -18tpi (1.41mm) so I bet you either need an actual M8-whatever that isn't shagged out, or if it's only fitting because it's toast, maybe a 5/16-18UNC (if coarse) or a 5/16-24UNF (if it's fine.)
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Oct 12, 2016 18:49
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Godholio posted:What does yours look like? I'd get whichever one looks closest.
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Oct 12, 2016 19:08
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spog posted:I don't know about your specific car, but don't the idiot lights come on when you move from Pos 1 to Pos 2? Turns out the 100A main fuse blew. edit: removed something that I thought was true but was not. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Oct 12, 2016 |
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Oct 12, 2016 19:42
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99 explorer guy, the ecu runs in open loop for the first few minutes, and shouldn't be rough despite coolant temperature. Intake plenum gaskets are endemic on that engine. They shrink when cold and as the engine warms up they swell and seal. Gaskets are cheap, but it's about 3 hours in a parking lot. But a torx bit set and have at it, I guarantee your rough start issues will disappear.
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Oct 12, 2016 23:09
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2012 Jeep Wrangler, 3.6L Today I finally finished replacing my sand-filled heater core (with a NAPA unit) and radiator (Flex-a-lite). This job involves removing the entire dash assembly, center console, and the battery tray...which means removing the TIPM and unplugging a whole lot of other connectors. And I think I missed one during reassembly. Symptom: Fuel gauge indicates empty. I don't remember how much is in there, but I know it's not empty. The engine cranks and cranks, but won't fire...it acts like it's out of gas. I did the gauge cluster test and the fuel gauge tests fine. I lifted the TIPM as far as I could and checked that the connectors underneath are all plugged in completely. So's the big connector next to the battery inside the tray, and the two underneath it (can barely get to them from underneath). The two grounds on the fender next to the TIPM are tight. There's another ground point hidden under that arch where the tray bolts on top of the fender...there's nothing on that but I don't see loose cables underneath (peeking through the gap) and the paint doesn't look like it's been wrenched on. My theory is that somewhere, there's a connector under the hood that ties the fuel pump/sender to a computer, and I left it unplugged. Does anyone have ANY idea where to find it? Or if there's something else that could cause this? The fact that the gauge reads empty but functions and the assumption that the engine isn't getting fuel tells me it's (probably) a common problem related to communication. The factory service manual doesn't include wiring diagrams, because gently caress Chrysler and Alldata. Edit: SOLVED...it was under the power steering reservoir and airbox. Godholio fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Oct 14, 2016 |
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Oct 13, 2016 02:22
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OK, so I'm changing out the spark plugs and coil packs on my 2008 Honda Fit Sport. I'm replacing them with NGK Laser Iridium plugs that are the same as the OEM plugs. Coil packs will be the Hitachi ones that are also the same as OEM boots. According to an argument thread on fitfreak.net about changing the plugs, there's some conflicting advice about torque, anti-seize compound, and dielectric grease. Someone quotes a Honda repair manual saying the plugs need 13 ftlbs of torque, and to use anti-seize compound on the threads. Some other dude says to follow the spark plug manufacturer's recommendation, which is hand tight plus 1/2 to 2/3rd turn with a wrench. Some other jerk says that adding anti-seize compound on the threads will make you overtighten your plugs at the same torque level and ruin your nice, soft aluminum head in the engine. I don't know who to believe. Do I use anti-seize compound? I'm sorta leaning toward "use the compound, then do hand tight and a half turn like the plug manufacturer says" Next question is dielectric grease. Grease manufacturer says coat the interior of the coil pack with that grease, and use a small amount on the outside of the ceramic part of the spark plug as well. Some other jerk online says that putting dielectric grease in the coil pack will increase resistance and screw with your plugs firing correctly. What do?
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Oct 13, 2016 18:43
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Hi, I was trying to remove some stickers that were on my back window. In the process I apparently ripped off some black protective coating that covers the wires or whatever of the rear window defroster, so now in some places I can see the gold wire. Is it going to set on fire when I have to use it? Do I have to replace the whole window?
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Oct 13, 2016 19:05
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Dielectric grease is to make sliding the boots on and off better and keep them from breaking when you take them off, it also keeps water out a bit.. here watch this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuKAmaIkA-U
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Oct 13, 2016 19:08
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Tightening: Don't use anti-seize. What anti-seize ends up doing is that you'll turn it more to get the same torque but that means the metal shell gets elongated. It can damage the head, cause internal breakage of the insulator, or decrease the cooling capacity of the plug and cause PI. These are just possible failure modes. If you torque it down by degrees then you don't get the right tightening torque. Anti-seize is not used in OEM production and for good reason. Dielectric grease: just be careful it stays off the terminal and you'll be fine.
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Oct 13, 2016 19:17
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:99 explorer guy, the ecu runs in open loop for the first few minutes, and shouldn't be rough despite coolant temperature. Not that I dont trust you. I googled it and while some people have mentioned it fixing their cold start issues it seems like most of them are also getting CELs.
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Oct 13, 2016 20:02
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I didn't get CELs until it had been going on for a few months. Really, the 4.0 SOHC has so many issues, be glad this is one you can actually do without pulling the engine.
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Oct 13, 2016 22:17
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