|
Is there any thread on SA where I can ask some questions about USB microphones? If its here: Could someone recommend me a cheap microphone (<50€) to record some stuff for youtubing?
|
# ? Sep 29, 2016 09:21 |
|
|
# ? May 16, 2024 18:10 |
|
Mikojan posted:Is there any thread on SA where I can ask some questions about USB microphones? If no one here has any recommendations, the Tech Support Fort over in the LP subfourm can probably give you some suggestions. You may not be doing a Let's Play, but you're recording voice audio for a youtube video nonetheless.
|
# ? Sep 29, 2016 10:16 |
|
Mikojan posted:Is there any thread on SA where I can ask some questions about USB microphones? ModMic is an easy quality option
|
# ? Sep 29, 2016 11:44 |
|
So I bought a 512GB X400 SSD for a friend to put in his system. He currently has an unpartitioned 1TB hard drive fit his windows installation that is probably 90-95% full. What's the best way for me to move his windows installation to the SSD, like software solution wise?
|
# ? Sep 30, 2016 01:24 |
|
Most companies will offer some sort of cloing software. Sandisk has a re-badged closing software for free you can use. http://kb.sandisk.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17292/~/sandisk-ssd-concierge-service-cloning-guide
|
# ? Sep 30, 2016 02:06 |
|
FCKGW posted:Most companies will offer some sort of cloing software. Sandisk has a re-badged closing software for free you can use. Problem is I can't clone 900GB to a 512GB SSD. I need some way to partition off the windows installation from the rest of the drive to clone it to the SSD.
|
# ? Sep 30, 2016 02:12 |
|
SlayVus posted:Problem is I can't clone 900GB to a 512GB SSD. I need some way to partition off the windows installation from the rest of the drive to clone it to the SSD.
|
# ? Sep 30, 2016 02:14 |
|
I need a printer for my desk, but I don't need a huge thing with copier functions or photo printing. What're the current recommendations for compact, no-frills desk printers? Not sure if I can trust Amazon's finds for compact printers.
|
# ? Oct 2, 2016 16:26 |
|
Pollyanna posted:I need a printer for my desk, but I don't need a huge thing with copier functions or photo printing. What're the current recommendations for compact, no-frills desk printers? Not sure if I can trust Amazon's finds for compact printers. The Printer Questions Megathread Be sure to mention whether you need b&w or color, and if you'll be printing frequently or occasionally.
|
# ? Oct 2, 2016 19:18 |
|
Anyone have a recommendation for a compact scanner? I occasionally scan forms and my phone camera scanner app isn't quite cutting it.
|
# ? Oct 2, 2016 21:32 |
|
So. I have owned and enjoyed using a Logitech Cordless Rumblepad 2 for a while now. It is now screwing up. I know what's wrong, but can't fix it-one of the plastic thingys inside that turns your mad button mashing into gentle presses has worn down to the point that for one of the buttons it's fallen off. The nature of the thing means you can't really stick it back on. It was bought from a small shop that no longer exists, so warranty isn't a factor. Especially since I had to open the thing to find out what the problem was. What would you suggest as a replacement? ...The frustrating thing is that the pad's still in good order, aside from the one button. Somehow I'd need to get hold of one of those plasticy things. Bloodly fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Oct 3, 2016 |
# ? Oct 3, 2016 07:15 |
|
Mikojan posted:Is there any thread on SA where I can ask some questions about USB microphones? Do humanity a favor and don't record with a cheap microphone. Just buy something Yeti second-hand or on sale. I got a Yeti Blue for 60€ and it's pretty much perfect.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2016 08:28 |
|
The cheapest mic recommended in LP is the blue snowball, which runs about $60-70 new. The most recommended is the blue yeti, for about twice that.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2016 08:34 |
|
LogicalFallacy posted:The cheapest mic recommended in LP is the blue snowball, which runs about $60-70 new. The most recommended is the blue yeti, for about twice that. Yeah but that's the brand new price. You can find a ton of them on the second-hand market in perfect condition.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2016 08:36 |
|
Bloodly posted:It was bought from a small shop that no longer exists, so warranty isn't a factor.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2016 11:37 |
|
Flipperwaldt posted:With very few, very specific exceptions, making use of a warranty involves you contacting the manufacturer directly. So I'd still check what Logitech can do for you. And even if the warranty is expired, if anyone can help you to one of those plasticky things, it's them. Couldn't hurt to ask, surely. If they are in Europe, warranty is the shop's problem and most manufacturers won't take over the burden if a store goes out of business. That said, it doesn't hurt to ask.
|
# ? Oct 3, 2016 17:36 |
|
I just had my seasonic X-650 die how quick are they when it comes to handling their rmas?
|
# ? Oct 6, 2016 00:04 |
|
I'm moving my Plex/general use home server into a new case, and wondering if I should get a new PSU. From Dell's site, it looks like this machine originally shipped in Feb 2012, so 4+ years. i7-2600 (non-K) 2x 4GB RAM modules 2x 4TB HD in RAID1 1x 120GB SSD 3 or 4x fans (120/140mm) This is run with no peripherals and in a closet, 24/7. Online the PSU calculators are all over the map, but I'm pretty sure anything will be better considering the current Dell PSU is 265W. Is the EVGA 430W 80+ White (lol) a huge pile of poo poo? Reviews seem decent and it's dirt cheap at $24.
|
# ? Oct 7, 2016 22:48 |
|
EVGA white PSUs are indeed a huge pile of poo poo.
|
# ? Oct 7, 2016 23:25 |
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:I'm moving my Plex/general use home server into a new case, and wondering if I should get a new PSU. From Dell's site, it looks like this machine originally shipped in Feb 2012, so 4+ years.
|
# ? Oct 7, 2016 23:40 |
|
Where would I go to buy standoffs/mounting hardware for a heatsink? Specifically a Coolermaster V8 on an EVGA X58 mobo? My computer's idiot previous owner had it attached with miracles and prayers apparently; I pulled it off to replace the busted fan, and when I went to put it back on... I guess the old shoddily glopped-on thermal paste was structural, because the screw/nut combo that's on there is nowhere near clamping onto the board, and the heat sink can slide around a mm or two in both directions. Current hardware stack is phillips head screw->heat sink bracket->rubber isolator->motherboard->nut, with the nut bottoming out on the screw thread with like 1mm of clearance left above the board surface, which there's no way that's how it's supposed to be. Temp seems to be holding steady at about 48C on all four cores for the moment, but I'd rather have the peace of mind of knowing it's attached properly.
|
# ? Oct 17, 2016 02:48 |
|
I run my two computers from a KVM set-up as per the diagram below: When my Logitech mouse is flat on the desk there's a high pitched sound, but when I take it off again the sound goes away. Anyone have any idea what this could be?
|
# ? Oct 18, 2016 15:11 |
|
My guess is you're getting coil whine in ???(you failed to mention what is making the noise) and doing things to the sensor on the mouse makes the ??? have a different charge on whatever component is making the noise. Solutions could be; plug the mouse in a different usb port, plug more things into the switch, plug less things into the switch, appease the machine spirit, find the offending part and put silastic on it until it stops, replace things, none of the above. I had a similar problem way, way back when I was not moving my mouse my motherboard made a high pitched sound but did not if I moved the mouse slightly.
|
# ? Oct 18, 2016 15:28 |
|
Wooper posted:My guess is you're getting coil whine in ???(you failed to mention what is making the noise) and doing things to the sensor on the mouse makes the ??? have a different charge on whatever component is making the noise. gonna contact my Shaman when I get back home from work, thanks edit: also diagnose where the hell the sound is coming from
|
# ? Oct 18, 2016 15:31 |
|
OHSHI Broke my biggest USB 3.0 flash drive when I dropped my laptop. The laptop is fine, but the drive bent and snapped. The actual flash memory itself works, though. What can I do to create a cheapo case for it? Foil? Taping the broken plastic together?
|
# ? Oct 20, 2016 15:45 |
|
Copy the data to a safe place and get a new one.
|
# ? Oct 20, 2016 16:03 |
|
Wilford Cutlery posted:Copy the data to a safe place and get a new one. I did that already. But at 64 GB, I wish there was something more I could do with it.
|
# ? Oct 20, 2016 16:09 |
|
Ema Nymton posted:I did that already. But at 64 GB, I wish there was something more I could do with it. https://www.startech.com/Cables/USB-2.0/Internal-and-Panel-Mount/2-USB-A-Female-to-Motherboard-Header-Adapter~USBMBADAPT2
|
# ? Oct 20, 2016 16:21 |
|
Plasti dip the circuit board. Keep dipping and drying and eventually you will have a new case built up.
|
# ? Oct 20, 2016 17:39 |
|
Do the first couple of dips in yoghurt, though, and you'll have storage with an emergency meal. Disclaimer: I have no knowledge of the electrical conductivity of yoghurt. apropos man fucked around with this message at 09:48 on Oct 29, 2016 |
# ? Oct 20, 2016 18:56 |
|
On my OS SSD, a mushkin 240 Chronos Deluxe, WinDirStat shows a giant 6.6GB file in the root of the drive. It labels the file as <Unknown>, I have enabled Show Operating System Files and show hidden folders and objects. This 6.6 GB file does not appear in explorer. I have a 2.4GB page file and hibernation is not enabled.
|
# ? Oct 21, 2016 05:43 |
|
SlayVus posted:On my OS SSD, a mushkin 240 Chronos Deluxe, WinDirStat shows a giant 6.6GB file in the root of the drive. It labels the file as <Unknown>, I have enabled Show Operating System Files and show hidden folders and objects. This 6.6 GB file does not appear in explorer. I have a 2.4GB page file and hibernation is not enabled.
|
# ? Oct 21, 2016 05:53 |
|
Ema Nymton posted:I did that already. But at 64 GB, I wish there was something more I could do with it. You could embed what you have in a great lump of Sugru, or whatever the name is of that putty that quckly tuns hard.
|
# ? Oct 22, 2016 22:24 |
|
Can the temperature sensors on a motherboard get stuck? I noticed that the CPUTIN value in HWMonitor is stuck at 46°C while the values for Core#0-4 have been fluctuating all over. The other temperature values are also startingly stable with at most 2°C difference but I have no way to compare them to other measurements. Can this easily be fixed or am I looking at an RMA? To illustrate Motherboard sensors CPU sensors Fragrag fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Oct 23, 2016 |
# ? Oct 23, 2016 15:10 |
|
I've never seen HWMonitor report anything but a constant or near-constant nonsensical value for those sensors.
|
# ? Oct 23, 2016 16:17 |
|
It is very possible that I just noticed now that these temperatures stay constant, I can't really remember. I do notice that my cpu and chassis fans don't change speed anymore despite any change in CPU temperature so I don't know what's going on there anymore. The only changes that I've done were install the latest NVidia drivers EDIT: So I rolled back my GPU driver and rebooted but that did nothing. Then I turned my computer off for about 20 minutes and now the CPUTIN value changes in a similar fashion to the Core temperatures. My CPU fan audibly ramps up and down according to the temperature as well. So I guess it's fixed now, though I have no idea what caused it to get stuck. Fragrag fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Oct 23, 2016 |
# ? Oct 23, 2016 16:29 |
How often do routers need to be replaced as far as performance? My wife and I play a lot of games and we have like really good internet, like 1 Gb up/down AT&T fiber, but we both get a lot of lag in games. I have a Netgear Nighthawk R7000 which at the time I understood to have a huge amount of throughput and good QOS stuff, but honestly I have so much bandwidth I didn't even think the QOS would matter. However, both of us have lag across so many different matchups in games with people that I think it's possibly on our side but I don't know what I can change other than the router. She is playing on computer wired with ethernet to the router and I'm playing downstairs on a PS4 with a powerline ethernet adapter, and we aren't running torrents or anything. Would getting a newer router be likely to make any difference? I'm not sure what else to do at this point. I thought it was just getting bad luck with matches but if I play 10 different people in a day in FIFA or something, for them ALL to have a bad connection to me and it not to be on my end seems unlikely. Also to be more clear when I say lag I generally mean just high ping times, I don't think I get a lot of packet loss, if that makes any difference.
|
|
# ? Oct 23, 2016 20:43 |
|
I'd try plugging a machine directly into your cable/DSL modem and see if your high-ping problems persist.* The age of the router shouldn't really matter for gaming - until recently, I used an ancient WRT-54G router from like 2001 and it didn't seem to hinder my ping at all, the only thing I noticed is that multiple torrents would bog the poor thing down and eventually it would freeze and need a reboot. *make sure you're firewalled properly and don't do this anymore than you have to, plugging a desktop directly into the 'net is a security no-no.
|
# ? Oct 23, 2016 21:40 |
|
Stefan Prodan posted:Would getting a newer router be likely to make any difference? JnnyThndrs posted:The age of the router shouldn't really matter for gaming - until recently, I used an ancient WRT-54G router from like 2001 and it didn't seem to hinder my ping at all, the only thing I noticed is that multiple torrents would bog the poor thing down and eventually it would freeze and need a reboot.
|
# ? Oct 23, 2016 21:57 |
|
|
# ? May 16, 2024 18:10 |
|
Alereon posted:The issue is that throughput is extremely poor on old routers. This means that gaming itself is fine, but you won't be able to use the server browser or download resources with any reasonable speed because the router will poo poo itself. If you have a 100mbps+ Internet connection it really makes a lot of sense to have a decent Wireless-AC router so you're not bottlenecking your performance at your router. Yeah, I really noticed the improvement in server browsing speed when I went to the new router.
|
# ? Oct 23, 2016 22:13 |