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Re-bled the accord brakes, pedal firmed up nice. Thanks dudes.
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Oct 23, 2016 21:49
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Bigsteve posted:Cool. WIll get it tested properly in the morning and throw a new one in if its no good. It's probably not worth the time/money/effort to even test it, just get a new one.
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Oct 23, 2016 21:59
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Normally I'd disagree (since the place where it gets tested is also the place you'll get the replacement) but at 6 years even if it is somehow fine, you're on borrowed time and it WILL die soon.
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Oct 24, 2016 00:27
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ionn posted:It's probably not worth the time/money/effort to even test it, just get a new one. Went out this morning and checked with my OBD sensor. Was reading 8v with the ignition on and wont start. Had only been used to crank the engine twice since charging. Going to get a new battery now. Also I know batteries don't last forever but in nearly 30 years of driving this is the first one thats died on me.
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Oct 24, 2016 09:23
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For what it's worth, I've been driving (legally, anyway) for 23 years, and I've owned 9 cars so far. Up until I owned the car I currently own, I'd never had a battery last much more than 4 years, going by the date on the battery. Most of them have died around the 3 year mark. I also live in a pretty hot part of the country, which doesn't help. The car I have now made it a little over 10 years (going by the build date of the car) on the original battery.  This car has the battery in the trunk instead of by the engine, I guess it helps.
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Oct 24, 2016 10:13
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My oem battery in my 05 civic made it 8 years, but not a single tire made it to 10k miles without blowing out a sidewall (the first went at 3k!)
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Oct 24, 2016 12:04
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:For what it's worth, I've been driving (legally, anyway) for 23 years, and I've owned 9 cars so far. Up until I owned the car I currently own, I'd never had a battery last much more than 4 years, going by the date on the battery. Most of them have died around the 3 year mark. I also live in a pretty hot part of the country, which doesn't help. I have a customer at work with an HHR and it's battery lasted 11 years.
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Oct 24, 2016 14:57
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Hey car peeps, my SiL's old 'New Beetle' has gotten a flat in my driveway. Now, I'm definitely an idiot rear end in a top hat, but usually pretty okay to change a tire, or oil, or manage things like that. This wheel is stuck on like crazy though. I've tried kicking it, kicking it from the other side, hitting it with a sledge from underneath the car and even driving back and forth on loose lug nuts. Still stuck. What should I try next? Antiseize and more driving maybe?
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Oct 24, 2016 16:56
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VOTE YES ON 69 posted:Hey car peeps, my SiL's old 'New Beetle' has gotten a flat in my driveway. Now, I'm definitely an idiot rear end in a top hat, but usually pretty okay to change a tire, or oil, or manage things like that. This wheel is stuck on like crazy though. I've tried kicking it, kicking it from the other side, hitting it with a sledge from underneath the car and even driving back and forth on loose lug nuts. Still stuck. What should I try next? Antiseize and more driving maybe? How flat is the tyre? Will it hold air long enough to get you to a mechanic? If not: a long extension to your tyre lever may work: a 6' long scaffolding pole you can bounce up and down on may be successful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l833ta7V6FY
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Oct 24, 2016 17:11
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spog posted:How flat is the tyre? Will it hold air long enough to get you to a mechanic? Tire is real flat, don't think it will hold any air. It's not the lugnuts that are stuck (I keep a 3' stick of iron pipe around to increase leverage if needed) it's the actual wheel stuck to the hub.
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Oct 24, 2016 17:15
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VOTE YES ON 69 posted:Tire is real flat, don't think it will hold any air. It's not the lugnuts that are stuck (I keep a 3' stick of iron pipe around to increase leverage if needed) it's the actual wheel stuck to the hub. Ohhh, I see. Have you tried rocking the car, not just driving on it? quote:, loosen all of the wheel nuts, (not too far but loose) place the car back on the ground, then rock the car side to side and the wheel makes a crack sound, and then your good to go. works every time from cars to light vans, large vans and lorries, again loosen the nuts place a jack between the wheel and the leaf spring, or any solid part of the vehicle, jack it until there is lots of pressure then give it a wallop with the hammer,,,, be careful as it does come off with some force so watch out for the jack slipping. Hope this helps
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Oct 24, 2016 17:39
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I'll give that a shot, thanks.
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Oct 24, 2016 17:48
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The "driving on loose nuts" trick can sometimes be bolstered by driving along a curb such that it's pushing on the inside of the tyre at a shallow angle. This is of course not at all wonderful for the tyre sidewall or wheel rim, but if you're stuck and have to get it off, it might help. The other thing that can work is using rope to tie a scaffold pole or similar to the wheel to give you a lot of leverage to try and get it off. Obviously you want to make sure you protect the face of the wheel from being damaged by the pole.
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Oct 24, 2016 17:54
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Try using the spare tire and smacking the wheel with it.
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Oct 24, 2016 18:04
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A rubber mallet and a lot of anger has done me well so far
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Oct 24, 2016 19:10
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Kick the poo poo out of the tire sidewall at the top, rotate tire a quarter turn, kick again, repeat til foot broken and or/wheel comes off.
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Oct 24, 2016 19:12
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The Door Frame posted:A rubber mallet and a lot of anger has done me well so far For this specific situation or just life in general?
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Oct 24, 2016 19:13
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Want to get the opinion of the thread here on whether I'm putting too much stock in odometer mileage when looking for a used Honda... I'm starting to look for a minivan for my wife so that she doesn't have to cram a toddler + newborn + stroller / groceries / etc into her 2015 Honda CR-V. I am very familiar with Hondas, this is our family's third, and I have great respect for the brand and its longevity. I sold my 1999 CR-V with 173k on the odometer, and my current 2005 CR-V has 169k so far with no major issues to speak of. I'm looking into use 2008 and higher Odysseys since new ones are well outside my comfort margin in terms of price. Does the forum feel that buying a higher mileage Odyssey, say, for instance, this listing near me, would be a bad idea for any reasons other than the obvious? https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/cto/5827874009.html I am aware of the expansive and expensive 105k service interval (timing belt + myriad other things most of which I can do myself) that Honda recommends, but other than that, any gotchas? The allure of being able to buy a van like this outright outweighs many hesitations I have regarding the high mileage, but what do other Honda drivers think?
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Oct 24, 2016 21:17
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I tried pretty much everything suggested. Sprayed some PB Blaster in there, let it sit for a few hours then went back to whacking at the drat thing with a mallet and it started to slowly move. After about 30 minutes of this, it popped off. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:25
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Use a wire brush to remove corrosion drom around the hub spigot. Lightly smear it with grease/anti-seize before refitting the wheel. Do the other three wheels now, because they'll probably be the same, and gently caress dealing with that on the roadside, at night, in the rain.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:37
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VOTE YES ON 69 posted:I tried pretty much everything suggested. Sprayed some PB Blaster in there, let it sit for a few hours then went back to whacking at the drat thing with a mallet and it started to slowly move. After about 30 minutes of this, it popped off. Thanks for all the suggestions. Clearly you need to treat yourself to a bigger hammer.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:43
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Imo when it comes to cars the age is a greater factor than mileage, just make sure timing and water have been done, if it'd a good shop there is a sticker on the firewall or the cover that says when the belt was changed.
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Oct 24, 2016 23:55
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spog posted:Clearly you need to treat yourself to a bigger hammer. for real InitialDave posted:Use a wire brush to remove corrosion drom around the hub spigot. Lightly smear it with grease/anti-seize before refitting the wheel. Yep, apparently the two front tires are new, but the back two are old as poo poo. That was my exact argument for replacing the other one now. (She's staying with us a while, and we live 30 minutes out of town, no cell signal, rural Montana -- so between here and town is not a fun place to get stuck with a flat, much less one you can't get off the hub).
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Oct 25, 2016 00:03
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Slightly non-AI question for the thread that I think is better suited to here than to the general small/stupid questions thread. My fridge was wedged slightly open by one of my children leaving a toy underneath it, so the door alarm didn't go off but the motor stayed in for about six hours straight. Now it seems that the motor almost never shuts off, maybe turning off for 10-15 minutes every few hours. Is it probably on it's way to being fuckered? It wouldn't be the worst thing in the world if I had to replace it, but I was about to buy a new TV, so that might have to wait another month or two if it's the case.
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Oct 25, 2016 00:32
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The (inside) coils may have frozen up. Is it moving any air?
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Oct 25, 2016 06:05
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Try the crazy, cross country truck repair thread if this one doesn't get your stuff working. IIRC, Exploding Sims is an HVAC specialist spog posted:For this specific situation or just life in general? This specific situation, my patients didn't appreciate me carrying it and more angular metal damages the rubber
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Oct 25, 2016 06:35
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Can anyone ID this car?
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Oct 26, 2016 01:41
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blk posted:Can anyone ID this car? It looks like a Skoda.
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Oct 26, 2016 01:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The (inside) coils may have frozen up. Is it moving any air? It's not. I've moved everything to the deep freeze and borrowed a large esky from the in-laws, and I've got it turned off and defrosting for now. If it doesn't come good I'll have to head to my local big box this weekend and pick up a new one.
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Oct 26, 2016 05:47
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Hitch question: I am looking at the Toyota RAV4 and I can get an OEM hitch and wiring harness installed. The hitch is designed for this specific vehicle and is low-profile (class 2 rating). The dealership wants about $600 for the hitch/harness and $400 for installation. Those prices seem high - am I better off getting a hitch elsewhere? I asked them if I had to buy it as a package with the car and they indicated I could get that installed whenever I wanted. One possible benefit is that since this will require some (admittedly minor) modifications to the vehicle, I get a better feeling having the dealership doing that as I don't want to risk damaging the car mechanically or electrically if someone from Uhaul does a clumsy install job. (I know the dealership isn't gaurenteed to do it perfectly, though.) Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 14:24
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I can’t tell you who you should have install your hitch, just don’t let U‐Haul do it.
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Oct 26, 2016 14:30
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Find out how complicated the installation actually is. It can range from 15 minutes with a wrench and screwdriver, to drilling holes in structural members and other things that'll drive the cost up.
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Oct 26, 2016 15:53
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You can probably find a local place that specializes in trailer hitch installation that'll do a better job for less money.
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Oct 26, 2016 16:07
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Safety Dance posted:You can probably find a local place that specializes in trailer hitch installation that'll do a better job for less money. Just call your local camper/trailer reseller and see who they use (if not in shop)? They're certain to be cheaper than the dealership, and might also be able to cut you a deal if they do bulk purchasing.
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Oct 26, 2016 16:59
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blk posted:Can anyone ID this car?
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Oct 26, 2016 18:07
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This is good advice - I will be sure to reach out to local companies that specialize in this sort of thing. Having to drill holes into the structural members gives me the jeebies - I think there are pre-drilled/tapped holes in the underside of the vehicle I am looking at. ("NOT UHAUL" is the general concensus I've heard more than once.)
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Oct 26, 2016 21:17
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04 Mazda 6 Sportwagon w/ 3.0L V6 No check engine light, possible pending codes unknown. Checking this tomorrow at work. I recently replaced the pcv valve, pcv hose, upper plenum gasket, back 3 ignition coils and all 6 plugs with new ngk platinum plugs. While putting the intake manifold back on, I snapped the far passenger side bolt. A generous helping of red rtv was globbed on, seafoam run through the intake and the car has run like a top for the last 3 weeks. This monday I got an oil change and tuesday installed a strip of led lights. On a test drive afterwards, it ran smooth as it had been since the plugs and assorted work was done. This morning while driving into town to vote and run errands, it started surging when I would come to a stop at lights, stop signs, etc. It became worse the longer the car ran and the hotter it got. However above 1k rpms, the issue disappears. This car apparently doesn't have an IACV, so the obvious things to check are MAF sensor and check for a vacuum leak, correct? Also, I've read some stuff about cleaning the throttle bodies on these cars helping with these engines, but I'm not sure if you can just push it down with a screw driver without causing the throttle position sensor to freak out and it doesn't work like a gm vehicle where having the vehicle on without the engine running will let you open the throttle butterfly by pressing the loud pedal. Is there anything else I should check and is it possible to just press the throttle butterfly down? Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 07:24
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First thing I'd do is spray some carb cleaner on that RTV mess and see if that's your leak.
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Oct 27, 2016 07:43
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A rock hit my hood on the highway and left a dime sized chip and a few very small scratches in the paint. To fix I just need alcohol, touch-up paint, and a polishing compound yes? Anything I'm forgetting? I was thinking about using this website since they send you a kit with all the stuff in it for around 40 bucks to include clear coat https://touchupdirect.com Has anyone used them before? Anyone have a better source?
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Oct 27, 2016 21:08
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| # ? May 17, 2024 13:37 |
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Never used TUD; everyone I know of has had good luck with Dr. Colorchip.
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Oct 27, 2016 21:14
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