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Boz0r posted:Is there much point in spending 40% extra on getting a ASUS MAXIMUS VIII RANGER instead of a ASUS Z170 PRO GAMING? The comparison function on Asus' website is pretty poo poo. Assuming you've compared the connectivity and both suit, the main difference is the ethernet chip and 10 phase vs 8 phase power. Better power delivery to the CPU matters when you're pushing voltages up to get the very highest overclock you can. You're unlikely to notice the difference if you compared them, and in all likelihood you'd end up on the same overclock on either board. They're both really competent boards.
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Oct 26, 2016 19:51
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I have an i5-3570K at stock speeds (never overclocked but totally can) and an Nvidia GTX 660Ti. Things are starting to slog on some games, and it appears the bottleneck is my video card which is pretty old at this point. My concern is if I upgrade to a GTX 1060 which seems to be fine for my meager needs of 1080p gaming is my CPU going to hamstring the processor or will it be good enough for my purposes? Is my poo poo just too old and I need to trash the whole thing and start with a fresh Mobo + CPU too? Thanks!
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Oct 26, 2016 23:39
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Thinking about upgrading soon, CPU is showing its age recently. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($34.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: ASRock Z170 Pro4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($110.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($91.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair RMx 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($99.99 @ Newegg) Total: $652.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-26 18:37 EDT-0400 Sticking with my 970/HDs/Case
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Oct 26, 2016 23:38
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KoB posted:Thinking about upgrading soon, CPU is showing its age recently. Standard question - do you need the Hyperthreading that comes with the 6700K for anything? Also, the 'top end' version of your ASRock board also has a pretty generous rebate on it: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157633 It comes with a better/more recent audio codec and native USB 3.1 ports. Minty Swagger posted:I have an i5-3570K at stock speeds (never overclocked but totally can) and an Nvidia GTX 660Ti. Your bottleneck is your GPU. The CPU is fine, and will definitely suffice if you OC to ~4.2Ghz. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Oct 26, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 23:43
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So my graphics card has died. It was an R9 290. Basically wondering what card it would make sense to replace it with, given the rest of my system. I got pretty good performance out of it, but I certainly wouldn't mind better performance from a new card, if everything else isn't a bottleneck. 1080p gaming. Current stats: ASRock H97 PRO4 LGA1150 1XPCIE3.0X16 3XPCIEX1 2XPCI Motherboard Intel Core i5 i5-4690 Quad-core (4 Core) 3.50 GHz Processor Team Elite Plus 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM D EVGA SUPERNOVA 750 G2 80 PLUS GOLD CERTIFIED 750W POWER SUPPLY 140MM FAN Dead: Gigabyte Radeon R9 290 Windforce 3x 947MHZ 4GB 5.0GHZ GDDR5 2xDVI HDMI
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Oct 26, 2016 23:50
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:So my graphics card has died. It was an R9 290. Basically wondering what card it would make sense to replace it with, given the rest of my system. I got pretty good performance out of it, but I certainly wouldn't mind better performance from a new card, if everything else isn't a bottleneck. 1080p gaming. Current stats: It'd help to know your budget. Other than that, an 8GB RX480 is around the same cost as a 6GB 1060 now. And by 'around the same cost,' an 8GB RX480 is ~$20-30 more expensive. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 26, 2016 23:55
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Standard question - do you need the Hyperthreading that comes with the 6700K for anything? No not really but I dont really mind the extra $50 for the extra speed.
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Oct 27, 2016 00:03
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Your bottleneck is your GPU. The CPU is fine, and will definitely suffice if you OC to ~4.2Ghz. Nice, I didn't really want to scrap the whole thing. Thanks!
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Oct 27, 2016 00:14
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Minty Swagger posted:Nice, I didn't really want to scrap the whole thing. Thanks! No problem - it'll do more than 4.2, but I'd fathom that's about the limit you'll get on stock VCore. I've got my 2500K running at 4.4@1.35v. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 00:18
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Question, what's the preferred flavor of 1070?
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Oct 27, 2016 01:02
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BIG HEADLINE posted:It'd help to know your budget. Budget is malleable, I don't want to spend $600+, but I would like to know what the upper limits of what would be useful. $300-$400 is probably the most realistic amount I would spend.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:01
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Jack Forge posted:Question, what's the preferred flavor of 1070? EVGA, ASUS, MSI, or Zotac. Take your pick.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:08
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My 2.5 year old laptop is starting to struggle on recent games. Anything wrong with this build? Any reason to get a tower case over a cube? PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Zfgrcc Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/list/Zfgrcc/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.88 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($53.88 @ OutletPC) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($93.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 750 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card ($234.98 @ Newegg) Case: Thermaltake Core V21 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($56.99 @ SuperBiiz) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($84.89 @ OutletPC) Total: $934.59 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-10-26 19:57 EDT-0400
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Oct 27, 2016 01:12
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All my parts for my pc showed up yesterday except the ram doesn't get here til Friday so I figured I will save some time and build parts of it early then finish it up Friday. I didn't realize how loving big the noctura cooler is and I think I am going to have to unmount it to fit the ram in. I also need to unmount the strix 1080 I bought to fit more drives in because I can't get to the sata ports and some of the hard drives I am still using in my current pc. I bought an Oem windows 10 and it came on a DVD is it possible to turn that into a bootable flash drive copy somehow so I can do without a optical drive. Having every part except one is killing me.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:18
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Pb and Jellyfish posted:Budget is malleable, I don't want to spend $600+, but I would like to know what the upper limits of what would be useful. $300-$400 is probably the most realistic amount I would spend. Definitely a 1070, then. You can snag them for right in the middle of your $300-400 budget now.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:19
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Definitely a 1070, then. You can snag them for right in the middle of your $300-400 budget now. Sounds good, thanks a lot.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:20
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BIG HEADLINE posted:Switch the RAM to this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233911 And got the ram you suggested. You're right -- I should stick to big brand names. Ordered from newegg!
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Oct 27, 2016 01:28
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cheesetriangles posted:All my parts for my pc showed up yesterday except the ram doesn't get here til Friday so I figured I will save some time and build parts of it early then finish it up Friday. I didn't realize how loving big the noctura cooler is and I think I am going to have to unmount it to fit the ram in. I also need to unmount the strix 1080 I bought to fit more drives in because I can't get to the sata ports and some of the hard drives I am still using in my current pc. I bought an Oem windows 10 and it came on a DVD is it possible to turn that into a bootable flash drive copy somehow so I can do without a optical drive. You likely could take the fans off the noctua and have room for the RAM, not sure if that's a possibility.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:30
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cheesetriangles posted:I bought an Oem windows 10 and it came on a DVD is it possible to turn that into a bootable flash drive copy somehow so I can do without a optical drive. You can download a "media creation tool" from Microsoft that lets you download Windows and make a bootable USB stick.
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Oct 27, 2016 01:40
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kripes posted:Thank you to you and Fauxtool for the advice. But gently caress it, I bought the 6600k anyway and the Z170-E. GeIL isn't bad at all, it's just I've never really steered anyone wrong with Corsair's LP/LPX series. They're unassuming and won't conflict even with HSFs the size of a baby's head, you can get the spreaders to match your motherboard's accents if you care about that kind of thing, and if you're in the US or Canada, their support is amazing. I don't know where their depot is in Europe, but I'm pretty sure in AUS/NZ you have to RMA to Taiwan. That, and outside of the super-ultra-mega-deluxe-gold-plated-platinum DIMMs, the difference between 'good enough' and 'much better than good enough' is now only ~$20, and spending that is the same as spending ~$30-50 more for a good PSU with a 5, 7, or even 10-year warranty for peace of mind. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 02:02 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 01:52
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kripes posted:Thank you to you and Fauxtool for the advice. But gently caress it, I bought the 6600k anyway and the Z170-E. good, it will last longer before you are desperate for the next upgrade
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Oct 27, 2016 01:55
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xthetenth posted:You likely could take the fans off the noctua and have room for the RAM, not sure if that's a possibility. It's the one with the fan in the middle.
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Oct 27, 2016 06:32
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Jesus, is there a way to decide between what 1060 or 1070 card to get? There's dozens of types it seems like and I dont even know where to start. 
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Oct 27, 2016 06:39
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Quick technical question. I just completed my build (I've probably built 30+ systems for friends and family) and am in the process of installing everything. I have been encountering very hard crashes (i.e. not BSOD, instead a complete and total hard freeze). The only way to recover is a hard reset. I was able to queue up a memory test and that ran fine. At this point I am thinking SSD, but am not sure. The crashes have been getting much worse recently and now it usually freezes within a minute of booting so I can't run the disk-check tool. What do you guys think the chances are it is the SSD? For reference, here is the build: CPU: Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.71 @ B&H) Motherboard: ASRock H170M-ITX/DL Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($73.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Crucial 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($82.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($157.10 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB Dual Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg) Case: Silverstone Sugo SG13B-Q Mini ITX Tower Case ($40.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Silverstone Strider Platinum 550W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
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Oct 27, 2016 06:46
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app posted:Quick technical question. I just completed my build (I've probably built 30+ systems for friends and family) and am in the process of installing everything. I have been encountering very hard crashes (i.e. not BSOD, instead a complete and total hard freeze). The only way to recover is a hard reset. I was able to queue up a memory test and that ran fine. At this point I am thinking SSD, but am not sure. The crashes have been getting much worse recently and now it usually freezes within a minute of booting so I can't run the disk-check tool. Reinstall windows just in case, or boot into linux to see if the problem persists. If it does, you know it's hardware. Check your cable connections and the like, but you may well have a busted SSD or motherboard. You can isolate that further too. If the issue persists past a reinstall, try using a different drive. If the issue persists then, you know it's not the SSD.
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Oct 27, 2016 06:56
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Joe_Strummer posted:Hello all, Besides missing a CPU cooler, the parts you have picked out will work together... ...but for 10+ years... 1. Where do you plan to keep this computer? That tower is huge. I got it for my first build, I regret it. A mid-tower will fit all your components no problem, it'll probably be cheaper, and will take up less floor/desk space. Maybe even think about going down to a mATX case & motherboard. Don't live with a mistake for 10 years. 2. What are your plans for SQL and R Studio - do you plan on using them a lot more or will it just amount to just testing stuff out and dropping them in a few weeks? You've picked out an expensive cpu/motherboard that eats up a large chunk of a 1k budget. It's fun to have powerful parts, but if all you're doing is using the computer to browse the web/play "1080p/60fps" games 99% of the time then why spend the extra money? A 6600k/6700k processor and a z170 motherboard may likely be right for you. 3. Recent overclockable CPUs do not come with a CPU cooler, you will have to buy an aftermarket cooler. The CPU you picked out is a hefty 140W to cool at stock speeds, and it's only going to get worse when you overclock it. 4. You'll probably want to do some overclocking to keep the machine punching after 10 years. Overclocking not only goes for the CPU, but also the RAM. Pick out some 3000/3200 speed RAM sticks. If going with the x99 motherboard, get 4 sticks instead of 2 to take advantage of the quad channel. 5. The GTX 970 is a generation old, look for a 1060 6gb - should be around the same price, but it's closer in performance to a 980 with more RAM. Your TV is probably has a 1080 resolution, and the 1060 is the goto card for that. Even if your TV is 4k, you can downscale to 1080 and it won't look all that bad. 10 years is a long time for a card to hold its ground, but assuming it doesn't break it should handle future games at mid to low graphics settings. 6. Solid State Drives (SSD) are a thing now. They're one of the best components you can get to improve your computing experience, whether you're booting your computer, loading a program, browsing the web, or just trying to browse to a folder. For a 10 year drive, the Samsung 850 Pro will probably do you good, as the warranty is for that long. It is an expensive drive though, and you'll want a large capacity (1 tb) to last you 10 years. You can always add in a 2nd drive in the future if you find that 1tb isn't large enough. A large cheap HDD to store your music/movies/backups and a fast SSD to have your OS and programs on is what a lot of people do. e. Please re-plan your computer usage so that it's more clear what you'd like to get out of this machine. 10 years is 1/8th of your life. Plan for your computer to last you 4 years, then decide what to do from there. You won't have to junk the whole thing if you want an upgrade, it's just a collection of parts slotted into each other. If you decide you want a beefier GPU down the line, or you want to add in another storage drive, no problem. That's part of the draw about building your own computer! https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/ Use this! Actuarial Fables fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 07:23
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Rexxed posted:An overclocked 3570K is still very good. If you can find one for under $150 and get a good cooler I'd probably do that. There's some on ebay for that price (even a couple that are listed as new). If there are other features you think you'd benefit from on Skylake then you may want to look at upgrading everything but you'll be buying a processor, motherboard, and RAM at minimum (around $400). Welp, I ordered the chip on ebay and I'll try OCing it once I have a cool cooler to go with it. Hopefully it'll overclock well.
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Oct 27, 2016 08:53
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I built my computer 4+ years ago. I made it a pretty fuckin' beastly computer at the time (because at the time it needed to be a 3D art beast). I'm not getting gaming performance like I used to, and was thinking about building a new one. But then I figured for shits and giggles I'd dump the parts into CPUBoss' part comparison. And they're telling me that comparing my CPU (i7 2600k) to the CPU that LogicalIncrements is suggesting for my price range (i7 6700k) is actually still really close on some of their benchmarks, and furthermore my old-rear end CPU still retails for like $300? http://cpuboss.com/cpus/Intel-Core-i7-6700K-vs-Intel-Core-i7-2600K If I upgraded this (I know I'd need a skylake mobo too) would I see a big performance boost? Meanwhile I have a jank-rear end videocard (GFX 560Ti with 4GB RAM, it used to smoke poo poo but now I think its outclassed by my PS4), and I could upgrade that to a 1070 for cheaper than upgrading the CPU and I think I'd get way better performance? I'm looking to play some of the new crop of shooters (TitanFall and maybe the new COD) and also play my current jam / pet game which is, I think, more CPU heavy (H1Z1: King of the Kill) than most shooters since its 150 people simulataneously and has a giant outdoor map and all that. Would it be worth upgrading the videocard and skipping the CPU, or should I keep saving and just do a full build later on?
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Oct 27, 2016 08:57
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Sigma-X posted:I built my computer 4+ years ago. I made it a pretty fuckin' beastly computer at the time (because at the time it needed to be a 3D art beast). I'm not getting gaming performance like I used to, and was thinking about building a new one. Sandy Bridge (2xxx) is still pretty good. There have been improvements but not huge ones in the last few generations of Intel processors. Upgrading your CPU and motherboard (and RAM) will get you a faster PC but it won't be hugely faster. You'd benefit from a new video card for sure, however. You should also consider an SSD if you don't have one.
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Oct 27, 2016 09:35
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FacelessVoid posted:My 2.5 year old laptop is starting to struggle on recent games. Anything wrong with this build? Any reason to get a tower case over a cube? Sigma-X posted:Would it be worth upgrading the videocard and skipping the CPU? HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 09:36
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Joe_Strummer posted:Hello all, To be blunt, no part of this is a good idea and your lack of a part picker list is why no one is trying to help on this. This looks like one of those alienware janky builds that throws money at all the wrong parts. Read some of the builds in the last few pages to get an idea of what you're doing and try again. Start with a i5k/z170/1060 and fiddle to get the best within your budget. Expect to replace the gpu within 2-5years based on taste of gfx settings. An i5 or i7 bought today might meet minimum specs in 10 years the way things look but gpu generations are getting better all the time. Try to find a psu with a 7+ year warranty or expect to replace it.
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Oct 27, 2016 10:02
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Yeah, I found it very hard to parse that post and hoped someone else would get around to it. To add to the above suggestions, an SSD for your OS and applications is highly recommended. An 850 EVO of whatever size you can afford would be fine, though 960 EVOs should be available soon and might be worth the extra cash if you're looking to keep these parts for a long time. A Corsair RM550x would be a good choice of power supply, it's a quality unit with a 10 year warranty for not too much money.
HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 10:29 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 10:15
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I'm honestly curious where the recommendations for that Super Luce memory is coming from. I know there's a DDR4-3400 kit that requires a 1.375v vDIMM capability from a board, but I don't know why anyone would get it in a standard speed grade...the heat spreaders are loving enormous. Also, there is no way you're making an X99 build work for that budget (especially with VAT), since the board and the CPU are going to easily tie up two thirds of it on their own. It's also a terrible time to build with the X99 since even though Broadwell-E gives you a questionably worth it dead-end upgrade path (Skylake-E is going to use an enormous new socket, so 2011-3 will be EOLed), you're building off a platform that already has burned off most of its useful lifetime - the 5930K came out in August 2014. I'm not saying the 5930K is a slouch, but it is a bit late to be considering it if you want a system that'll last five years, let alone *ten*. As it stands, everyone should be building to make it to Coffee Lake (due in the first half of 2018), where we'll finally get hexacores that don't require X-Series motherboards. TL;DR: Building a 'ten year system' now would cost you about as much as a used base-model compact car and it'd be wasting our time to spec one out. The smarter play is to build a system that'll give you three good years, long enough to make it to Coffee Lake, Cannonlake, and potentially even Tigerlake, at which point you do a refresh for a system that'll last you 5-7 years. BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:03 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 10:23
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BIG HEADLINE posted:I'm honestly curious where the recommendations for that Super Luce memory is coming from. I know there's a DDR4-3400 kit that requires a 1.375v vDIMM capability from a board, but I don't know why anyone would get it in a standard speed grade...the heat spreaders are loving enormous. they are sending tons of free sticks to all the YT PC guys like science studio and jays2cents so it keeps showing up in their builds. They dont seem to have the integrity to say its sponsored content. also they light up, thats all the reason people need to pick them Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 10:35 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 10:33
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Fauxtool posted:they are sending tons of free sticks to all the YT PC guys like science studio and jays2cents so it keeps showing up in their builds. They dont seem to have the integrity to say its sponsored content. 
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Oct 27, 2016 10:56
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I'm trying to find info on GeIL's RMA policy - they force Europeans to send their modules to Taiwan. They have a phone number for the US/North America in Pasadena, CA - but I can't find anything that says they've got an RMA depot here. More reasons to not use them: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/id-3027316/geil-company-support-rma-problems.html BIG HEADLINE fucked around with this message at 11:00 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 10:57
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It was a joke but im actually certain the ledzzz are why they are being bought. They are the same price as good non-light up ram, which probably means corner cutting somewhere. They remind me of ocz, pushing way too much power into lower end ram to get better specs If I needed my ram to have lights I would get that raiden plasma. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0n6nF40xIPY 6cm tall heatsinks, gently caress yeah Fauxtool fucked around with this message at 11:23 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 11:18
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Fauxtool posted:they are sending tons of free sticks to all the YT PC guys like science studio and jays2cents so it keeps showing up in their builds. They dont seem to have the integrity to say its sponsored content. i wish more YT channels were clear about this stuff. It's clear they get huge amounts of poo poo shipped to them, it'd be good if they mentioned, even in the description, what they got for free. The Raiden plasma stuff is pretty baller. 6cm is crazy but if you buy plasma ram you're probably rocking a roomy tower. well why not fucked around with this message at 12:42 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 12:04
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Sigma-X posted:Would it be worth upgrading the videocard and skipping the CPU, or should I keep saving and just do a full build later on? Post the rest of your current specs. Sounds like you could easily get away with a GPU, and SSD/RAM/OC depending on what you have and still have a pretty quick machine.
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Oct 27, 2016 12:27
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Larrymer posted:Post the rest of your current specs. Sounds like you could easily get away with a GPU, and SSD/RAM/OC depending on what you have and still have a pretty quick machine. Whoa wait the i7 2600K isn't the bottleneck for my system either? My specs are: i7 2600k 3.40Ghz (I tried overclocking when i first built my pc but it would crash when I ran a game/not bootup entirely, and now I'm not confident in trying to overclock) ASUS P8Z68-V LX 8GB ram Samsung 120GB SSD EVGA 770 2GB vram Seasonic 650W Gold series couple of HDD's don't remember the makes. Win 7 If I don't need to build a completely new system and only need a new video card I would totally just do that instead. I guess I'd replace my old liquid cooling thing also. Do places still sell LGA 1155 compatible coolers? Agrajag fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 14:28
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