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Sidesaddle Cavalry posted:Short answer: Almost unnoticeable boost, even more diminishing returns after 2133. This advice is outdated. Many modern games show substantial scaling all the way up to DDR4-3200 and beyond.
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Oct 24, 2016 13:47
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BurritoJustice posted:This advice is outdated. Many modern games show substantial scaling all the way up to DDR4-3200 and beyond. Oh nice. I ignored ram overclocking this time around but now I wont!
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Oct 24, 2016 18:10
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BurritoJustice posted:This advice is outdated. Many modern games show substantial scaling all the way up to DDR4-3200 and beyond. HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 18:37 on Oct 24, 2016 |
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Oct 24, 2016 18:33
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My initial (outdated) advice was my impression on specifically DDR3 after DDR4's advancements but Boromir's link has proven food for thought. Good luck with the DDR3-2400 RAM!
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Oct 25, 2016 02:10
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There's a lot more going on here than is initially apparent, as Skylake's memory controller is much better than Haswell's regardless of the DDR3/DDR4 change. Memory controllers can have a point where further memory speed clock increases don't help them transfer much more data, and I think that Haswell is about tapped out at 2133.
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Oct 25, 2016 17:22
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So, I'm looking for tips on how I go about overclocking my CPU. I was told that the automated overclocking tool was to be avoided and was the reason I was experiencing crashes/failed boot ups, but from reading the thread I can't seem to find what I'm supposed to use to overclock my CPU if I should avoid the automated one. My specs are: i7 2600k 3.40GHz ASUS P8Z68-V LX Seasonic 650W Gold series Samsung 120GB SSD 8GB ram Windows 7 I was told to change the turbo multiplier, but I have no clue how to do this. HalloKitty posted:The 2600K is still decent, and will easily feed a graphics card more powerful than the one you have; but it really should be overclocked. If it doesn't overclock at all, it'll have been the first Sandy Bridge chip I've ever heard of that doesn't just take it like a champ.
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Oct 27, 2016 15:29
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Over here you'll find the user's manual for your motherboard. Go to page 63 of the PDF ("2-13" on the actual page). When you start up your computer, you should see an ASUS logo and some text asking you to press a key if you want to enter BIOS/UEFI. Press said key, then navigate to the "Ai tweaker" screen you see in the user's manual. Set "Ai Overclock Tuner" to Manual. This part is a little weird in this particular BIOS, but this should be right: Set Turbo Ratio to [By ALL Cores (Can Adjust in OS)], then set the By ALL Cores value that shows up to 42. It should say "Target CPU Turbo-Mode Speed: 4200 MHz" at the top once you've done this. Save and exit, your computer should reboot and your processor should now run at up to 4.2 GHz when under load. You can then run one of the tests linked in the OP (IntelBurnTest is quick and effective in my experience) and if it doesn't crash or get to very high temperatures (which you can monitor with something like HWInfo, also linked in the OP) you're good to go. If you want, you can then increase the multiplier by 1 and try again, until it does crash/get too hot for comfort, at which point you back off one step and call it good. No amount of overclocking is guaranteed, so your crashes might simply mean you lost the silicon lottery hard, but this is more likely to get good results than an auto overclock tool.
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Oct 27, 2016 17:52
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Intel Burn Test is actually able to overclock the P8Z68-V LX within Windows and change the max multiplier without rebooting in my experience. If you don't plan to mess with anything but the multiplier it might be an easier way to go; I don't recall the exact steps, but I'm pretty sure it was really straightforward.
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Oct 27, 2016 18:28
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Somehow the Intel CPU cooler is worse than my 212x without a fan. Is the CPU Cooler from Intel just useless or could I be having trouble elsewhere? An i5 4690k I boosted up to 40 clock and 39 cache, with 1.25 voltage can't sustain load. Any effort brings it immediately up to 100. What is the current good/cheap CPU Cooler to get around 4.4ghz? EDIT: DeepCool Maelstrom 240 liquid cooler appears good on the surface from what I've read. Is there anything I should be aware of? Lord Windy fucked around with this message at 10:52 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 28, 2016 08:40
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Lord Windy posted:Somehow the Intel CPU cooler is worse than my 212x without a fan. make sure there is room in your case. I wouldn't call that cooler cheap, either. Noctua NH-D15-S is the air-cooling king if you decide against liquid
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Oct 28, 2016 12:01
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Thanks for all the help and I'm going to overclock my CPU after I buy the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO since my CPU is apparently running at around 50C, with only Google Chrome open.
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Oct 28, 2016 12:25
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Eletriarnation posted:Intel Burn Test is actually able to overclock the P8Z68-V LX within Windows and change the max multiplier without rebooting in my experience.
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Oct 28, 2016 12:40
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Lube banjo posted:make sure there is room in your case. I wouldn't call that cooler cheap, either. Noctua NH-D15-S is the air-cooling king if you decide against liquid I think I might just go with a 212x, or see if I can get a replacement fan for my broken 212 evo. The D15/D14 are about the same price as the liquid 240 but there is no way I can get that huge heatsink to fix nicely in the spot available. The 240 would easily fit but I don't know where I'm meant to put the radiator. I am impressed that just a massive heatsink provided so much passive cooling. It has been broken for ages but I have only just discovered the fact when replacing my g3258. (Ages back I had to reduce the overclock from 4.6 to 4.2 and still got weird slowdown).
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Oct 28, 2016 12:57
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Well I decided to try overclocking my i7 2600k, while my Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO ships, and I set it to 42 in the ASUS bios. I ran IntelBurnTest and I got a BSOD at around the 6th run... Yeah, I think I lost the silicon lottery super hard.
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Oct 28, 2016 15:29
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Agrajag posted:Well I decided to try overclocking my i7 2600k, while my Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO ships, and I set it to 42 in the ASUS bios. I ran IntelBurnTest and I got a BSOD at around the 6th run... Yeah, I think I lost the silicon lottery super hard. Are you trying to overclock just using the stock Intel cooler? If so I'm not surprised at all that it's failing. The stock cooler is made to provide enough cooling to keep the chip stable at stock speeds and doesn't have any headroom for overclocking. You really need to wait until you get a better cooler installed before you try overclocking.
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Oct 28, 2016 17:48
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Krailor posted:Are you trying to overclock just using the stock Intel cooler? I have a Corsair single radiator liquid cooler (I forget the model name) that is 3 or 4 years old.
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Oct 28, 2016 18:03
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Do check your temperatures, HWInfo is your friend. If temps are reasonable then you can increase voltage - up to 1.35V should be quite safe - and try again. If even that doesn't help then backing off to something like 4 GHz (multiplier 40) will still get you some boost over stock.
HMS Boromir fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Oct 28, 2016 |
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Oct 28, 2016 18:22
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I suspect it's my cooler doing a poo poo job at cooling since I'm averaging 57C at idle with only Google Chrome open right now.
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Oct 28, 2016 18:33
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 Are you like, not using thermal paste or something?
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Oct 28, 2016 18:49
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Agrajag posted:I suspect it's my cooler doing a poo poo job at cooling since I'm averaging 57C at idle with only Google Chrome open right now. Oh drat, I'd expect it to be cooler than that even with the stock cooler. I wonder if it's even fitted correctly (those pins can be tricky if you've never dealt with them before). Wait until you've put a new cooler on it and then try again.
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Oct 28, 2016 19:16
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Just wanted to double check, but is 90°C bad for an overclocked GTX 460? I'm planning on a new card soon to bridge between my old computer and my new one. I was getting that temperature when the gpu was overclocked and when I returned it to default. I just cleaned the crap out of the case and comp for dust...which was horrible...when I kept getting thermal throttled earlier when trying to overclocked my cpu at first. So it shouldn't be a dust issue. On the plus side changing 33 to 40 cpu frequency on my i5-2500k after never messing around with overclocking before just improved the crap out of battlefield 1 and let me get medium level graphics with a solid 30fps and 50 to 60 on low.
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Oct 28, 2016 23:25
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Seems pretty high. I'm surprised it wasn't artifacting or throttling.
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Oct 29, 2016 01:47
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I now have a 212x instead of the old broken 212 evo and the stock cooler. I have never really done overclocking properly, for my G3258 I just shoved the 4.5 default on it, increased the power and clock slightly and called it a day. I want to aim for a 44x multiplier that is really stable (settling for 40~42) but there are some terms I don't understand. Is there like a babies first guide for increasing the clock rate slowly on Asrock z97 board? FOr the next little while I am just going to leave my computer as is until I have more information EDIT: I found a guide and went with what I could. Seems my setup refuses to stay cool so I went with a 4.2 and 3.8 cache at 1.040. This is very stable and at the small ftt test from Prime95 I got no higher than 72 for cores 1 and 4 and no higher than 78 for cores 2 and 3. But when I added in 2400 RAM suddenly the heat when out of control. But at 2133 it is not much hotter than normal, why would that be? Lord Windy fucked around with this message at 10:33 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 04:20
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wrong thread
Agrajag fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 17:40
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HMS Boromir posted:This took me a while to realize, but just for clarity's sake, did you mean Intel Extreme Tuning Utility? You're right, I saw Intel and thought "yeah the Intel utility, that thing is great" but I don't think the Burn Test has any OC capability. On many Sandy Bridge and newer systems, the XTU gives you access to multiplier and turbo power level settings from within Windows. It has even allowed access to some options on my two Dell Latitude laptops that I don't think I can get anywhere else, like what wattage to allow for turbo and how long of a duration to allow it for. I've been too scared of causing damage to really do anything with that though and as you would expect you can only access multipliers on K-chips. Agrajag posted:I suspect it's my cooler doing a poo poo job at cooling since I'm averaging 57C at idle with only Google Chrome open right now. What is your voltage looking like under load when overclocked? With my 2500K at 4.4GHz and "Auto" voltage using a Hyper 212+, I get 1.38V/60C under load and around 35C idle. From everything I've ever heard 1.4V or less should be safe for extended use on Sandy Bridge, so if you're not that high you might be able to bump it up a bit once you get the cooling sorted out. Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Oct 29, 2016 |
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Oct 29, 2016 17:50
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quote != edit
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Oct 29, 2016 17:55
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Larrymer posted:Seems pretty high. I'm surprised it wasn't artifacting or throttling. There really wasn't any I noticed. Could the now fast cpu be causing it. I spike around 94 and 96 last night. I'm getting a new card, but it's something I'd like to figure out the cause of and how to mitigate it in case it's not solely caused by the card.
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Oct 29, 2016 22:32
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Is there any particular reason to stick to the usual RAM speeds (2133-2400-2666-2800-3000) or can I run my DDR4-3000 at 2900 since that's as high as I've managed to get the damned things to boot at?
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Oct 30, 2016 08:58
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I'll post this and come back and check later. Does anyone have experience with MSI Z77 motherboard disabling speedstep when you overclock? I have the Z77-GD55, https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/Z77AGD55.html.html#hero-overview I overclocked my 3770k to 4.5GHz and I've tried leaving all of the speedstep options as per optimized defaults and only changing vcore and multipliers. CPU-Z and hwinfo say that I'm running the CPU at a permanent 4.5GHz, even after Windows has finished loading and slowed down to idle processes. What's confusing me is that the options on my mobo that seem to be related to speedstepping are called stuff like 'C1E' and 'C state', so it's not immediately apparent. I don't want to just push the Overclock Genie button on the mobo because I'd rather set the vcore at a steady 1.200v and not let the system have it wandering about. Cheers!
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Oct 30, 2016 10:56
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apropos man posted:I'll post this and come back and check later. Is your Windows power profile set to "high performance". That will prevent the CPU from down throttling.
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Oct 30, 2016 11:40
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I'll check when I'm home. Thanks for the suggestion. I've also been monitoring it in Ubuntu and I think it was going balls out in Ubuntu too, but that might've been with a slightly different BIOS setup. I'll have a look.
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Oct 30, 2016 12:19
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Is there anything I can do to lower the total amount of heat produced into my office by using cooling systems? I used to have my PC inside a desk cabinet which made my computer hotter, but it never had trouble and the spot at my desk where I sit was noticeably cooler. I'm trying to configure this case http://www.coolermaster.com/case/lan-box-haf-series/haf-xb-evo/ Apparently there's a lot of poo poo you can do with the cooling on it. Is there a way to make my computer produce less heat using cooling stuff instead of underclocking it? Should I just move my PC further away from my desk, or is there some kind of poo poo I can do with directing the exhausts so the heat doesn't waft up from my case and bug me? All these questions aside also, if I have a budget of 150 bucks to blow on cooling for this anyway, as I might want to overclock but that's as much as I'm willing to spend, should I go for liquid cooling or just add more fans?
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Nov 4, 2016 22:43
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signalnoise posted:Is there anything I can do to lower the total amount of heat produced into my office by using cooling systems? I used to have my PC inside a desk cabinet which made my computer hotter, but it never had trouble and the spot at my desk where I sit was noticeably cooler. I'm trying to configure this case http://www.coolermaster.com/case/lan-box-haf-series/haf-xb-evo/ Heh? All heat has to go somewhere. Having the PC in a cabinet means it puts out more heat overall than if you had it in the open, as circuit resistance goes up with temperature (i.e the hotter the actual PC is, the less efficient it is). You just didn't have the heat radiating directly on to you which is why you didn't notice. If you want to avoid putting the heat into the office you could design a PC where all the exhaust heat is going into a dryer duct and brought up into the office's drop ceiling; we're doing something like that to vent heat from our server room's portable air conditioner.
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Nov 4, 2016 22:49
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Zero VGS posted:Heh? All heat has to go somewhere. Having the PC in a cabinet means it puts out more heat overall than if you had it in the open, as circuit resistance goes up with temperature. You just didn't have the heat radiating directly on to you which is why you didn't notice. Yeah, that's about what I figured. Just didn't notice. Alright, so by this logic, keeping the system cooler makes it generate less heat overall, right? Or am I misunderstanding you? In that case probably the best option would be putting it away from my desk and also using hella cooling on it, but what should I actually install? Are closed loop liquid cpu cooling systems significantly better than the stock heatsink/fan combo that came with my CPU (Core i5 4690K), or should I just add more fans or what? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I don't know a better resource offhand for this kind of beginner info.
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Nov 4, 2016 22:54
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signalnoise posted:Yeah, that's about what I figured. Just didn't notice. Yes, keeping the CPU/GPU cooler will make it put out less heat. It's not a tremendous difference, it might be more like 10% or whatever, but it helps. Yes, a CLC will keep the CPU temp lower than all but the hugest air coolers. Refurbished Corsair Hydro coolers are a nice value: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181062 If you're willing to replace the entire motherboard and CPU, changing to Skylake would make a much larger difference in heat output than anything else. For instance, an i5 6600k would put out a third less heat to do the same work as your 4690k.
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Nov 4, 2016 23:02
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Zero VGS posted:If you're willing to replace the entire motherboard and CPU, changing to Skylake would make a much larger difference in heat output than anything else. For instance, an i5 6600k would put out a third less heat to do the same work as your 4690k. Probably a better use of my money, too. Thanks!
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Nov 4, 2016 23:09
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signalnoise posted:Probably a better use of my money, too. Thanks! Moving from a 4690k to a 6600k just to hopefully produce less heat is a horrible waste of money. Neither of those processors should have any real impact on overall room temperature unless you have them pegged at 100% load all of the time. What other components are in your computer? Video Card? You should think about getting a better cooler largely because the stock intel one isn't that great. But you don't have to go all-out and get a liquid cooler; a Cryorig m9i is plenty and is only $20. What does your setup look like; are the exhaust fans from the case blowing directly on you? Edit: Looking at the Intel data sheets the 6600k actually puts out 3 more Watts than the 4690k at load (TDP of 91 vs 88). Krailor fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 00:33
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If you don't want your office hot turn on the ac.
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Nov 5, 2016 03:03
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OK so basically what I'm gathering is that the answer is "maybe but gently caress it"
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Nov 5, 2016 03:17
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There's really not a lot you can do to reduce the power consumption of a relatively new gaming computer without also reducing its ability to run games. You can try undervolting the processor if you have a motherboard that supports it, but this will severely limit any overclocking you have present/planned and won't do that much. Your best way to keep your office cool is to not run a gaming PC in it, vent the exhaust heat out of the office, or turn up the AC.
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Nov 5, 2016 04:06
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