Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Traditional Games > Minis Painting: I have the heavy body and soft body

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

Slimnoid posted:

Cross-posting some from the Terrain thread.

The graveyard so far. It's about good enough for a 3'x3' table, though perhaps a bit more sparse than I'd like. For what I got done in a month I'm pretty happy with it so far.

Additional plans are to have some trees, a couple hills, and a decent line of fencing. Possibly a pumpkin patch just for the heck of it. I might try my hand at scratch-building some mausoleums to give some semi-large pieces of blocking terrain, with maybe casting it so I can just pump out copies as I see fit. I'm definitely going to make a giant hanging tree, complete with dangling bodies, as befitting a happy place like Malifaux.

This is good poo poo, good good poo poo.

Hamshot posted:

So guys, I have a plan but would be good to get some feedback on it before I embark if anyone has experience with dipping.

I'm wanting to paint up a betrayal at calth box as word bearers in just a few steps since it's such an intimidating number of minis. My current plan is a zenithal undercoat followed by a dark red wash, then dipping the lot in some army painter strong tone quickshade. Sound like a good plan? Is the strong tone (which is brown) a good fit for a dark red paint scheme, or should I go for the dark tone? Maybe wash with a not-dark red in case the quickshade darkens it down too much?

I find that brown washes are almost always better for reds than black.

# ? Oct 29, 2016 04:48

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# ? May 25, 2024 22:09

Cthulhu Dreams: Dec 11, 2010; If I pretend to be Cthulhu no one will know I'm a baseball robot.

Hamshot posted:

So guys, I have a plan but would be good to get some feedback on it before I embark if anyone has experience with dipping.

I'm wanting to paint up a betrayal at calth box as word bearers in just a few steps since it's such an intimidating number of minis. My current plan is a zenithal undercoat followed by a dark red wash, then dipping the lot in some army painter strong tone quickshade. Sound like a good plan? Is the strong tone (which is brown) a good fit for a dark red paint scheme, or should I go for the dark tone? Maybe wash with a not-dark red in case the quickshade darkens it down too much?

In addition to the advice above, consider coming back with a highlight over the quickshade. I'm 200 bones deep with basically the method you outline (except with minwax) and a basic highlight or dry brush seems to be an improvement. Then I use a matt varnish.

# ? Oct 29, 2016 04:55

Arson Fire: Oct 8, 2010; Oath Breaker about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!

Cross posting from the oath thread

Arson Fire posted:

Oath Complete!

I'm quite happy with how these turned out.
Couldn't find many behemoth themed genestealer cults to steal ideas from, so I mostly just stuck with the studio scheme, and made the skin a nice gradient down from red through each generation of cultist.

# ? Oct 29, 2016 08:30

Neurolimal: Nov 3, 2012

Since molds were discussed in here I figured I'd ask: does anyone know if it's possible to buy silicone catalysts separately? I've been using Alumilite's pink silicone, and even carefully weighing everything for exact ratios I still have half the base container and like, two 20g batches worth of catalyst.

Also:

Arson Fire posted:

Cross posting from the oath thread

That collar came out REALLY well. The army itself is great, but that stood out to me, kudos.

# ? Oct 29, 2016 16:16

mango sentinel: Jan 5, 2001; by sebmojo

Is there any way to paint eyes that don't look like horrible googly eyes?

# ? Oct 29, 2016 16:19

Neurolimal: Nov 3, 2012

mango sentinel posted:

Is there any way to paint eyes that don't look like horrible googly eyes?

Very careful application, a steady hand, and thin brushes. Considering even the majority of professional mass market toys still suffer from being crosseyed it's definitely a difficult skill.

Also remember to paint the most recessed features first, and the raised (i.e the pupils) last. This is a pretty basic tip but it does go a long way for sunken eyes.

# ? Oct 29, 2016 16:20

Proletariat Beowulf: Jan 7, 2007; I wish meat screamed as I ate it.

Does anyone paint before they fully assemble? I usually do because it allows me far more flexibility in accessing weird angles to paint as I please (especially for highlights), but every time I return to my station, some paint has scuffed off of a previously-painted bit.

I'll be three brush-strokes from done and gluing poo poo together when I see an edge or a corner scraped off down to the primer

Does anyone run into this, or has anyone found a way to prevent it?

mango sentinel posted:

Is there any way to paint eyes that don't look like horrible googly eyes?

The best advice I ever got for eyes was to do them last, give no shits, and then just paint back over your sloppy spills. The inside of all my Acolyte Hybrids' eyes secretly have a splatter of yellow everywhere beneath their otherwise clean-looking job :tinfoil:

# ? Oct 29, 2016 16:42

GuardianOfAsgaard: Feb 1, 2012; Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

mango sentinel posted:

Is there any way to paint eyes that don't look like horrible googly eyes?

Yep. Paint your face completely first, shade the eye sockets suitably dark, then just do two tiny dots of white on either side of the eyeball, that's it. Looks so much better than if you try and do the whole eye white and then paint the pupil, which always ends up googly looking.

# ? Oct 29, 2016 17:08

mango sentinel: Jan 5, 2001; by sebmojo

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

Yep. Paint your face completely first, shade the eye sockets suitably dark, then just do two tiny dots of white on either side of the eyeball, that's it. Looks so much better than if you try and do the whole eye white and then paint the pupil, which always ends up googly looking.

I was just gonna leave the eyes shaded but this sounds like a good thing to try, thanks!

# ? Oct 29, 2016 17:12

Sydney Bottocks: Oct 15, 2004; Can't post for 3 days!

For eyes I generally do the following (cribbed mainly from Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic):

1. Paint the flesh shade layer on the whole face
2. Paint the eye sockets white, not worrying about neatness
3. Put pupils where I want them, again not worrying about being too neat
4. (invariably) Correct and fix the balance of whites/pupils until I'm satisfied
5. Use flesh shade color to clean up the "overspill" of whites/pupil colors, carefully "narrowing" the eyes until they're the size I want 'em to be
6. Paint rest of face as normal, leaving a small small line of the flesh shade layer surrounding the eyes

Here's the Dr. Faust video that I slightly adapted my technique from.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhH-GWvHG00

# ? Oct 29, 2016 17:32

Springfield Fatts: May 24, 2010; Pillbug

I just sprayed some Vallejo matte varnish and see that a few models have some white spots on them. Should I use white spirit, isopropyl or something else to thin it off?

vvvv Failing having a bottle of that handy, will the olive oil trick work?

Springfield Fatts fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Oct 29, 2016

# ? Oct 29, 2016 19:36

ijyt: Apr 10, 2012

None of the above, use gloss varnish on those spots. It'll reactivate the lacquer and get rid of them.

# ? Oct 29, 2016 19:38

goodness: Jan 3, 2012; When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

Are these three alright for zenithal priming? I am worried the Black may be to thick being labeled a primer+paint.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 00:48

Zark the Damned: Mar 9, 2013

I case anyone cares I started my Gargant log over on Da Waaargh http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54424

Not repeating it here because screw that, but I can recommend not buying anything from Tsipis if that's an indicator of their usual quality.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 01:14

TTerrible: Jul 15, 2005

Zark the Damned posted:

I case anyone cares I started my Gargant log over on Da Waaargh http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54424

Not repeating it here because screw that, but I can recommend not buying anything from Tsipis if that's an indicator of their usual quality.

That is shockingly bad quality. I'm surprised you didn't request a refund.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 01:18

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

God, and I thought it was bad when I got a mini that had obviously been 3d printed and had some tiny "ridges" on mostly-flat surfaces (like a topological map). At least in my case it took about a half hour total to clean it up.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 01:22

Neurolimal: Nov 3, 2012

As someone who is actually kind of into patching up errors and cleaning areas, that is a disgusting amount of work for what is a $250 kit.

On the bright side, I bet it'll look amazing once you finish the thing, and the rivets could probably fit with a messy ork build aesthetic (cut down a little so that they aren't obviously molding fuckups).

# ? Oct 30, 2016 01:27

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

goodness posted:

Are these three alright for zenithal priming? I am worried the Black may be to thick being labeled a primer+paint.

Something in my head is saying zenithal without an air brush might be really hard but yeah, those would work fine in theory

# ? Oct 30, 2016 03:20

GreenMarine: Apr 25, 2009; Switchblade Switcharoo

Zark the Damned posted:

I case anyone cares I started my Gargant log over on Da Waaargh http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=54424

Not repeating it here because screw that, but I can recommend not buying anything from Tsipis if that's an indicator of their usual quality.

That looks like an early generation 3d printer. We have them at the office (have many gens) and there are some tell-tale signs in the way the agents are layered up. It's not a cast model, but 3d printed. You could do that at home.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 03:30

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

GreenMarine posted:

That looks like an early generation 3d printer. We have them at the office (have many gens) and there are some tell-tale signs in the way the agents are layered up. It's not a cast model, but 3d printed. You could do that at home.

Yeah that's for sure an fdm printer. Good door what they do but poo poo for this hobby. What you would want would be a resin printer or something similar. A few companies are already using them for small batch runs orbfor masters

# ? Oct 30, 2016 03:51

mango sentinel: Jan 5, 2001; by sebmojo

goodness posted:

Are these three alright for zenithal priming? I am worried the Black may be to thick being labeled a primer+paint.

People I've talked to said the Primer+Paint Maxx stuff is a bit too thick.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 04:50

goodness: Jan 3, 2012; When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

w00tmonger posted:

Something in my head is saying zenithal without an air brush might be really hard but yeah, those would work fine in theory

I may have missed that it was a airbrush only technique while reading the op? I think I'm buying one anyway.

Patriot 105 but I still need to decide on a compressor

# ? Oct 30, 2016 05:09

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Zenithal priming with rattlecans is perfectly ok. You probably won't get quite as smooth a transition though.

(I don't use zenithal priming.)

# ? Oct 30, 2016 05:24

w00tmonger: Mar 9, 2011; F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

goodness posted:

I may have missed that it was a airbrush only technique while reading the op? I think I'm buying one anyway.

Patriot 105 but I still need to decide on a compressor

Just upgraded to that motherfucker and it's good

# ? Oct 30, 2016 05:41

Gravitas Shortfall: Jul 17, 2007; Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.

Avenging Dentist posted:

Zenithal priming with rattlecans is perfectly ok. You probably won't get quite as smooth a transition though.

(I don't use zenithal priming.)

I've used it before but never got it to work properly, the best I've managed is really start lighting effects.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 06:42

ijyt: Apr 10, 2012

Never once have I seen a finished model where I'd have known zenith all priming was used unless they told me. The one time it was obvious was a model that has been painted with just glazes, but it looked tabletop quality at best. Still haven't been convinced that it's worth the extra time. :shrug:

# ? Oct 30, 2016 10:13

Zark the Damned: Mar 9, 2013

GreenMarine posted:

That looks like an early generation 3d printer. We have them at the office (have many gens) and there are some tell-tale signs in the way the agents are layered up. It's not a cast model, but 3d printed. You could do that at home.

It's a cast model, but they made the moulds from a 3D print (without tidying up the print first). The underside of the feet make it clear that resin's been poured.

Also if it were a 3D print I doubt the rivets would have gotten so mangled.

TTerrible posted:

That is shockingly bad quality. I'm surprised you didn't request a refund.

I probably should but I guess I'm too nice a guy for that. As bad as it is it's still going to wind up much easier to use it as a base than scratch building my own one.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 10:22

Neurolimal: Nov 3, 2012

Zark the Damned posted:

It's a cast model, but they made the moulds from a 3D print (without tidying up the print first). The underside of the feet make it clear that resin's been poured.

...yikes. I figured it was just a poor print, but that's a pretty crazy mistake. Hope they aren't using metal casts.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 13:52

JackMack: Nov 3, 2007

I am an acceptable to bad painter and as such zenithal priming was an absolute saviour for painting an army of blood Angels. I think if a airbrush wouldn't be workable for someone it is worth experimenting. I have some fantastic effects from army painter red over black. The difficulty has been consistency. You really have to spray off the model and then ghost it across the model. The other thing to do is to put them in the bottom of a box and spray down.

You have to paint a layer of the same over to ease the transition but with army painter they match pot paint to the primer so it was very easy. I can only speak for the bright red.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 14:27

TTerrible: Jul 15, 2005

Zark the Damned posted:

It's a cast model, but they made the moulds from a 3D print (without tidying up the print first). The underside of the feet make it clear that resin's been poured.

Also if it were a 3D print I doubt the rivets would have gotten so mangled.

I probably should but I guess I'm too nice a guy for that. As bad as it is it's still going to wind up much easier to use it as a base than scratch building my own one.

If you're going down that road I'd sand all the rivets and detail off and re-detail it myself. It might even be quicker. Just use it as a base form.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 14:36

mango sentinel: Jan 5, 2001; by sebmojo

Quick, someone shame me for being a gross weirdo so I don't buy these Kingdom Death figures.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 15:22

thespaceinvader: Mar 30, 2011; The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!

mango sentinel posted:

Quick, someone shame me for being a gross weirdo so I don't buy these Kingdom Death figures.

Which figures are you thinking of? Because some of them are perfectly fine, and if it's those I'll shame you for enabling gross weirdos instead.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 15:30

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

# ? Oct 30, 2016 16:47

mango sentinel: Jan 5, 2001; by sebmojo

thespaceinvader posted:

Which figures are you thinking of? Because some of them are perfectly fine, and if it's those I'll shame you for enabling gross weirdos instead.

Not as gross as the real gross but too gross to admit here :haw:

# ? Oct 30, 2016 20:17

ijyt: Apr 10, 2012

PaintVagrant posted:

These are incredibly rad, those blends are fantastic! What game are these from, Malifaux?

# ? Oct 30, 2016 20:28

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

ijyt posted:

These are incredibly rad, those blends are fantastic! What game are these from, Malifaux?

Thanks!

http://dark-age.com/

# ? Oct 30, 2016 20:31

Avenging Dentist: Oct 1, 2005; oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

The rad thing about Dark Age is that those are among the oldest sculpts in the game, and the new ones look even better. I'm working on a Kukulkani army right now (the newest Dark Age army, unless you count Shadow Caste); they have some of the coolest minis I've seen in any range.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 20:56

PaintVagrant: Apr 13, 2007; ~ the ultimate driving machine ~

Avenging Dentist posted:

The rad thing about Dark Age is that those are among the oldest sculpts in the game, and the new ones look even better. I'm working on a Kukulkani army right now (the newest Dark Age army, unless you count Shadow Caste); they have some of the coolest minis I've seen in any range.

Yeah, totally. I am debating between Kukulakani or Fire Caste as my next faction. I love the bigger models, its fun and easy to paint big stuff.

The pic may not really show scale super well, but the majority of the brood stuff is on 40mm bases. Howler, the big dude, is on an 80mm base.

# ? Oct 30, 2016 21:13

SRM: Jul 10, 2009; ~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

I've wanted to do a Knight for a while, and after getting the Renegade box set at NOVA and doing some homework on Knight schemes, I found one I really liked from Epic:

So began a project that was kind of a nightmare at every opportunity, from primers not matching paints, to paints not covering, to sourcing decals and then having those transfers rip and fall apart, to my cat knocking the drat thing over and breaking it more than once, but it's finally done and I'm finally happy with it. Joke's on me for choosing a primarily yellow color scheme, I guess: