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Ford, but when I sent the pic to my Dad, he said his Suburban originally had that type too. And yes, I'll be replacing them.
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Nov 1, 2016 04:42
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clutchpuck posted:Amazon. Got the Superskin kit and some extra needles. https://www.amazon.com/Superior-58-...ing+wheel+cover From a billion pages back, but I've got Superskins on my '79 RX-7, and my '70 Cutlass, and they have held up well on both. I don't drive them much now, but they were both dailies when the covers went on, and still look good after a decade. I do use leather cleaner/treatment on the interior (works fine on vinyl, and isn't as icky/shiny as Armor-all and the like), and keep sunshades up in the summer, so I imagine that helps. That said, I'm getting a Wheelskins for the Crown Vic, mainly because of the colors and perforated option. A bit pricier at $60-70, but a lot more sizes and options available. If I needed basic black again, I'd go for the Superskin, most likely. kastein posted:drat good chance you can get a better condition OEM one at the junkyard for like 25 bucks. That's what I've always done when the OEM leather was trashed on a wheel, but I was fine with how a nice one at the yard felt. This is what I did on my XJ. Found a ZJ with leather that someone had put a slip-on cover over, apparently from new. It was almost perfect! Darchangel fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 06:23
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In addition to cleaning and re-gapping the spark plugs in early preparation for winter; I had to remove the B&M shifter and top transmission cover to replace the leaking gasket, and I installed a new Hinson shifter unit in their place. This is the shifter I originally wanted but couldn't afford at the time when the factory shifter decided to break a few years ago.  Which meant I finally had a reason to replace the ratty original boot along with the equally worn handle.  All back together.  Needless to say; I'm very happy with the results so far, both functionally and aesthetically. I'm now trying to decide what novelty gimmick shifter knob to go with first. It's not as easy as I thought... 
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Nov 1, 2016 06:37
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Crustashio posted:They never made EL coupes. It's a 99 Si shell (or EX for americans) and we needed a less rusty front end. EL was the first thing that popped up. I've grown to like it, but I still think the EL front end on a hatchback looks like pure loving garbage. Gotcha. I've seen maybe 3 or 4 EL's in my life, and never realized they only did them in sedans. That front clip on a hatch just sounds... it would be like seeing a hatchback limo.  The US EX and Si (Canada got the US Si as the SiR I believe) bare shells were the same, I think - maybe the Si's got some reinforcements? Everything except the body itself was different though - suspension, drivetrain, interior, etc. I think the US Si even got 5 lug wheels, vs 4 lug on all of the other 6th gen Civics (not positive tho). clam ache posted:I had completely forgotten about this. Might do it if its not super expensive. might just track the bitch till it breaks then worry about cosmetics. First i have to figure out where my spark is getting weak at. Thanks f22b2 for being an odd duckling motor. Pretty much guaranteed to be the coil, ignitor, and/or a bad ground to the block. In that order. B2 is definitely an odd duck though.
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Nov 1, 2016 06:40
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Gotcha. I've seen maybe 3 or 4 EL's in my life, and never realized they only did them in sedans. That front clip on a hatch just sounds... it would be like seeing a hatchback limo. I've seen the wagon front on Civic hatches and the hatch from on wagons. Both ways look totally wrong.   That Acura/Domani front looks much more natural
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Nov 1, 2016 07:20
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Root Bear posted:
Here, I'll help you out a little: https://www.instagram.com/mr__grip/
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Nov 1, 2016 08:07
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Recently I've just been doing stuff in the run up to inspection next month. Most recently I changed all the bulbs that I haven't touched myself in my 2 years with the car. I also changed the headlight bulbs from a colder than stock bulb to a warmer than stock bulb. Comparison shots:   The finished look:  Quite a bit more yellow than I was expecting actually but I'll run them for a week and change them back if I don't like them. Also when I was changing the little parking light bulbs I found out that the plastic sockets had gone bad and they disintegrated as I took them out. They are now both duct taped back in because apparently I am the PO. v  v
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Nov 1, 2016 09:51
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dissss posted:I've seen the wagon front on Civic hatches and the hatch from on wagons. Both ways look totally wrong. I agree about the hatch. But I am such a Honda wagon fanboy that civic is tits. I would own a poo poo ton of civic wagons if we got them in America. The one we did get was more derp mini van then wagon. America never gets cool cars anymore.
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Nov 1, 2016 14:55
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clam ache posted:America never gets cool cars anymore. Honda (and Toyota) stopped making cool cars, everybody else still does.
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Nov 1, 2016 15:28
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Larrymer posted:Honda (and Toyota) stopped making cool cars, everybody else still does. Yeah i kinda agree with this. That new crazy civic hatchback is kinda cool. And no other car manufacturer today makes "cool" cars. They all look like accords or bmws or escapes and range rovers having downs babys.
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Nov 1, 2016 16:06
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dissss posted:I've seen the wagon front on Civic hatches and the hatch from on wagons. Both ways look totally wrong. Civic... wagon? 
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Nov 1, 2016 16:58
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I got my personalized plates!  I really need to wash my car, too.
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Nov 1, 2016 17:45
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Gotcha. I've seen maybe 3 or 4 EL's in my life, and never realized they only did them in sedans. That front clip on a hatch just sounds... it would be like seeing a hatchback limo. Barf away.  On the other hand, I love the accord aerodeck. It's like honda decided they need to make a stretch EF hatchback, but with popups. 
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Nov 2, 2016 02:57
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Crustashio posted:
 UNFFFFFFF why did america never get this beauty. Today my ride started making a new howling noise from the front diff. Its only fair since the rear diff has been howling since my mother in law bought the jeep.
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Nov 2, 2016 03:00
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This page 
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Nov 2, 2016 03:03
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Crustashio posted:On the other hand, I love the accord aerodeck. It's like honda decided they need to make a stretch EF hatchback, but with popups. GodDAMN. I've owned two 3rd gen Accords (1 sedan LXi, 1 coupe DX, both 1988s), and almost got a third (LXi hatch, think it was an 87). Still kicking myself over missing that one, but it was rough. Seeing THAT though.... nnnnghhh. I'm gonna be keeping an eye out for a 3rd gen hatch again (yeah I know it's not close to an Aero, but...). The LXi was a pretty drat nice car for its time, and had decent power. Enough to bury the speedometer (and get me a few stern talking-tos). I'm pretty much positive they made an LXi hatch for 86 and 87, so I might be able to find one (eventually) on Craigslist. We never got the Aerodeck.  e: there's an 86 LXi hatch locally... for $3500. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Nov 2, 2016 |
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Nov 2, 2016 11:19
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Crustashio posted:On the other hand, I love the accord aerodeck. It's like honda decided they need to make a stretch EF hatchback, but with popups. Aerodeck is cool as gently caress and I will fight anyone suggesting otherwise.
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Nov 2, 2016 11:43
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Took the day off to change the oil in my two cars. First up was the explorer. Oil was no problem but when I was under there I saw the fuel filter and it looked pretty old so I thought "hey, may as well change it!". So I picked up the metal removal tool at advance auto and spent about 5 hours on the stupid thing. I ended up having to cut off one end to give me room to take it out, and only then was I able to take the one end out. The rust and corrosion basically welded it to the gas line. Took a LOT of pb blaster and back and forth movements. The other side Im just gonna blast with spray every day and attempt it over the weekend. [img=middlefingerinfrontoffuelfilter][/img]
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Nov 2, 2016 13:50
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Yeah.... I really should change my fuel filter someday. GM suggests every 100k. I'm coming up on 160k.  I'm afraid it'll be the same ordeal though - it's probably corrosion-welded to the lines, since the car came from a salt state.
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Nov 3, 2016 04:56
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yeah.... I really should change my fuel filter someday. GM suggests every 100k. I'm coming up on 160k.  From before I even started. Had a lot of nice rust dandruff after working on that. Cage fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 16:35
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That looks like a walk in the park (once you blow $15 on the anodized aluminum fuel line quickconnect toolset) aside from having to buy two new safety retention clips for the quickconnects. I don't even see any screws or bolts or hoseclamps. I think Hondas with the filter under the hood and Subarus with the filter under the hood are my favorites though. Don't even need to crawl under, it's just... right there.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:23
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kastein posted:That looks like a walk in the park (once you blow $15 on the anodized aluminum fuel line quickconnect toolset) aside from having to buy two new safety retention clips for the quickconnects. I don't even see any screws or bolts or hoseclamps. I thought it would take 15 minutes too. I was working on that sucker for hours.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:30
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drat, that sucks, I've never had that much trouble with one*. Maybe the quickconnects are packed with garbage and should be hosed out with brakleen then another round with WD40/blaster? If it was the zinc alloy removal tool that looks like a double ended pair of scissors, those things loving suck and I can see why it would take you forever trying to use them. I threw mine out and bought the better QC tools. That being said, they are called quickconnects because they connect fast at the factory. No one ever said they came apart fast, except me just then :dunce: USUALLY they are fine, but once in a while you get screwed over. My favorite is when it's a 20 year old plastic fuel line fitting and rather than coming apart, the barb snaps off the back and now you have to fix the fuel lines that aren't available from the dealer anymore! Thanks jeep. * this is a dirty black hearted lie. About 90% of the ones I've had to deal with without the good tools on hand have been that bad, and about 10% of the ones that I did have the good tools for. Naturally, only those with zero access or space to work, like the lower radiator trans cooler fitting on my 88 MJ, which is still leaking trans fluid at a rate of several quarts per 1k miles because I can't face loving with it again and it's probably getting a whole different powertrain within a few thousand miles anyways. kastein fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 20:37
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I'm probably going to have to cut the line and replace it with a flexible hose of some sort. Went out there after work and made it worse. I took the inside clips out that hold the filter in and sprayed and sprayed pb blaster in there. Jammed a screw driver in there to try to twist the thing loose and got nowhere. 
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Nov 4, 2016 00:11
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The worst is when you have to deal with quickconnect fittings and didn't know you would be, so you leave your entire set of quickconnect tools at home and have to fashion a crude facsimile out of a cut up soda can and some pliers.
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Nov 4, 2016 00:24
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Terrible Robot posted:The worst is when you have to deal with quickconnect fittings and didn't know you would be, so you leave your entire set of quickconnect tools at home and have to fashion a crude facsimile out of a cut up soda can and some pliers. which is still a better solution than the plastic ones.
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Nov 4, 2016 05:31
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:which is still a better solution than the plastic ones. Those are so drat worthless. I destroyed mine trying to do the second Ford, and ended up cutting a pencap in half and jamming that in with pliers (and much cursing). Sharpie: 1 (but drying), Ford: 0
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Nov 4, 2016 05:44
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Shrugs Not Drugs posted:which is still a better solution than the plastic ones. Those work awesome for spring-retained ac system fittings, but gently caress alla that noise if you are attempting to use them on cooling system (looking at you, GM), trans, or fuel lines for some reason.
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Nov 4, 2016 13:04
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Changed the trans fluid + filter in the F150. I got it in May and have been living with slightly sticky 1-2 and 4-3 shifts, now it shifts like butter.
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Nov 4, 2016 19:35
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Not mine, but a buddy tried to bodge a cracked radiator with JBWeld epoxy on his '99 SL1 (Saturd). Needless to say it didn't work, because it just bubbled out of the hole as it was still hot. It did make a nice little mess on his parking spot, though. He didn't call me until after remembering that I mentioned RockAuto. They, as well as any shop in town didn't realize there is a a difference between a manual and an automatic SL1's radiator. (Hint: There are two more inlets for the one of them that doesn't have a clutch). Of course, absolutely nobody- even the local GM shops had any usable parts numbers for cross reference.  So, being broke as hell, and unable to wait another two weeks after playing rounds with RA and UPS, we ended up at TruValue.  M12/1.25. Holds drat tight and covered the inlets, and epoxy, teflon tape for the manually-sized plugs.  So last year, I've replaced the thermostat, injectors, coils, serp, and water pump when we decided we needed to tackle the intake leak which was keeping it from registering. Now it has a new thermostat (again, might as well), hoses, and radiator. It's like a brand new drat car. E: Spelink West SAAB Story fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 01:10
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You realize that does absolutely nothing, right? The transmission cooler in the end tank is sealed so coolant can't enter it. The reason there are no cross references is because unless the auto and manual have different mounting points, core sizes and/or tank sizes, you can just use the auto version with 0 issues. So... congrats on being smug about wasting your time doing something completely unecessary?
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Nov 5, 2016 09:03
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That's... kinda what I'm wondering about too. Though Toyota didn't figure out how to keep ATF and coolant separated for a few years on their trucks. Particularly 4Runners.  I mean, it'd be good to cover up the trans cooler part just so poo poo doesn't get in there, but a rubber cap and a clamp will take care of that. And they often come with rubber caps already covering the trans cooler ports anyway - if they're on there at purchase, just leave them. I gave up trying to find a M/T radiator for my Altima when it cracked - nobody locally had one in stock, and it was a lot higher on Rockauto - so I grabbed an A/T Spectra radiator from AutoZone. The only real difference between the original and the replacement was the trans cooler. I just left the rubber caps on the ports, it fit just fine. The lower radiator support and the hoses were the same, so was the fan, and I don't think there was any real difference in coolant capacity or cooling ability. There were some issues with the Spectra radiator, but they weren't related to how it fit (more related to QC issues, but it did work, with some effort). Pretty sure my Saturd's radiator would be the same way, except the fucker comes out from the bottom. For some reason the M/T version of my car uses a different cat that's basically unobtanium though... and guess who needs a cat?
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 09:58 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 09:54
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Cop Porn Popper posted:You realize that does absolutely nothing, right? The transmission cooler in the end tank is sealed so coolant can't enter it. The reason there are no cross references is because unless the auto and manual have different mounting points, core sizes and/or tank sizes, you can just use the auto version with 0 issues. So... congrats on being smug about wasting your time doing something completely unecessary? Neither one of us really felt like pulling it back out of the car if it decide to start spewing liquids 15 psi, so that's why both of the holes were capped off. Both myself and the O'Reilly guy proposed that it would be very strange to actually have standard coolant running through the transmission cooler, but neither one was willing to state that this wouldn't be an issue due to unfamiliarity with the application. The area where the crack developed on the original unit is precisely where the top Inlet lay - which did not make any of us comfortable with having them left open. The fact that there was only one part number available and obviously two different builds is the reason for my annoyance, more so than having to spend a couple of hours finding a solution to a problem evidently didn't exist.. Thanks for the clarification.
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Nov 5, 2016 13:40
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Cop Porn Popper posted:You realize that does absolutely nothing, right? The transmission cooler in the end tank is sealed so coolant can't enter it. The reason there are no cross references is because unless the auto and manual have different mounting points, core sizes and/or tank sizes, you can just use the auto version with 0 issues. So... congrats on being smug about wasting your time doing something completely unecessary? Yeah... he's right. you have solved nothing and improved nothing. I don't even understand the logic / lack therof behind bothering to plug those.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:19
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kastein posted:Yeah... he's right. you have solved nothing and improved nothing. I don't even understand the logic / lack therof behind bothering to plug those. Funny hypothetic twist -- they sealed it up during a day of high atmospheric pressure. That, combined with the heat of the coolant/motor expands the air in the transmission cooler that they trapped in there by plugging both sides that were meant to be left open... and the pressure build up cracks the end tank.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:38
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It's the trans cooler fittings, they go into a metal trans fluid heat exchanger tube that is designed to handle several hundred psi line pressures and keep trans fluid and coolant separated at all costs.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:41
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kastein posted:It's the trans cooler fittings, they go into a metal trans fluid heat exchanger tube that is designed to handle several hundred psi line pressures and keep trans fluid and coolant separated at all costs. You have no sense of humor.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:52
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Yeah he does, that reply was the engineer version of a punchline.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:56
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angryrobots posted:Yeah he does, that reply was the engineer version of a punchline. But if he would have let it linger, that could have planted a seed of doubt in Viggen... leading him to worry about the open pipe that he plugged.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:58
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Ahh, it's good to be home.. you just can't BUY this kind of attention. 
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Nov 5, 2016 22:07
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