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No it's cool, we're due for a week of 70 degree weather for the last time this year, you go right ahead and break somewhere in the shift linkage. Fuckin' shift pedal went completely limp today on the way to work. Pulled to the side of the road and shifted it into first with my hands to make it the rest of the way, now it's been towed to a shop. Still shifts fine as far as I could tell on the side of the road (first into neutral into second and back) so that's something.
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Oct 31, 2016 21:59
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Sounds like a job for JB Weld and Home Depot. What bike do you have that you can't see the shift rod?
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Oct 31, 2016 23:47
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Man, I have just never had a good result with JB Weld. Every time I've tried to use it, out of this idea that it's some super-epoxy that can replace metal parts or whatever, it ends up cracking off. Shift rods are under a lot of torsional load. I'd either weld it for real or replace the whole thing.
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Nov 1, 2016 00:06
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From my experience jb weld works great for something not under load, like when I covered a crack in my crankcase cover. Every other time it's broken. I jb welded a light bar onto the bar my aux lights were on and it broke, probably from the vibrations and hitting my fender. I jb welded the crossbar under my engine that the skidplate bolts to and it broke, but it's probably cause I slammed a curb pretty hard like a week after. Someone I know jb welded the metal bracket under the mirror after it broke when they fell over and the jb weld failed just while riding around.
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Nov 1, 2016 01:39
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Coydog posted:Sounds like a job for JB Weld and Home Depot. What bike do you have that you can't see the shift rod? 990 SMT. I didn't even bother looking hard, I had a shift to get clocked in to. Shipped the bike off to a shop; I don't really trust myself with JB Weld on a bike more expensive than my car.
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Nov 1, 2016 02:17
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I'm disheartened that ya'll think so little of me as to assume I would seriously suggest home depot and JB Weld to repair his shift linkage. Sorry about your SMT. I'm still surprised that it broke. You mean the shift rod, going from the rearsets? Did it not just come unscrewed? Coydog fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 02:33
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Schroeder91 posted:From my experience jb weld works great for something not under load, like when I covered a crack in my crankcase cover. Every other time it's broken. I jb welded a light bar onto the bar my aux lights were on and it broke, probably from the vibrations and hitting my fender. I jb welded the crossbar under my engine that the skidplate bolts to and it broke, but it's probably cause I slammed a curb pretty hard like a week after. Someone I know jb welded the metal bracket under the mirror after it broke when they fell over and the jb weld failed just while riding around. In my expert bullshit opinion, I think JB weld falls apart specifically because of the metal powder content. I can see how that would increase compressive strength or temperature-resistance, but it seriously reduces toughness and makes the hardened compound more brittle. Regular, non-metal-containing two-part epoxy has always seemed stronger to me in the sort of situation where you'd use an adhesive in the first place. Regular epoxy is certainly a better choice for something that's going to be under regular flexural load or vibration, like, say, everything on a motorcycle. Aside: god damnit I hate those two-part syringes that epoxy comes in nowadays. Give me the good old days when it was just two separate metal tubes. Way easier to work with Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Nov 1, 2016 |
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Nov 1, 2016 02:53
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Coydog posted:I'm disheartened that ya'll think so little of me as to assume I would seriously suggest home depot and JB Weld to repair his shift linkage. It's possible, I definitely didn't have the time to scope it out roadside. That and a 16 hour shift to get through, I just had it towed. Watch it be something stupid I could have totally handled.
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Nov 1, 2016 02:57
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Sagebrush posted:Aside: god damnit I hate those two-part syringes that epoxy comes in nowadays. Give me the good old days when it was just two separate metal tubes. Way easier to work with So much this. Those drat double syringes inevitably keep trying to squirt way more out of one side than the other, making it a pain to get an even mix of resin and hardener without ending up squeezing out more than you intended to use. 
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Nov 1, 2016 04:53
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Could you no cut the plunger arms apart so you can work them separately?
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Nov 1, 2016 08:49
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HotCanadianChick posted:So much this. Those drat double syringes inevitably keep trying to squirt way more out of one side than the other, making it a pain to get an even mix of resin and hardener without ending up squeezing out more than you intended to use. Buy the smallest one possible, squirt out and mix the entire amount, throw away the excess. Theoretically more expensive but has anyone ever managed to actually get a second use out of one of those packs?
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Nov 1, 2016 09:05
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Buy the smallest one possible, squirt out and mix the entire amount, throw away the excess. Theoretically more expensive but has anyone ever managed to actually get a second use out of one of those packs? HCC actually used to use epoxy as a teenager so he doesnt need to go get a beginners size epoxy when he can just jump straight to the contractor grade stuff
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Nov 1, 2016 11:27
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Coydog posted:Oh you guys. No need to be jealous. I'd do the same for any of you. And by the same, I mean ridicule you for sport for being dumb, then provide help from my vast mental storehouses once you bowed to my obvious superiority. (offer excludes PCOS and perhaps Bananana) Wait, What? 
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Nov 1, 2016 15:43
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Buy the smallest one possible, squirt out and mix the entire amount, throw away the excess. Theoretically more expensive but has anyone ever managed to actually get a second use out of one of those packs? I've got a half full one in the garage that I've used two or three times now. It's not hard, it's just annoying.
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Nov 2, 2016 07:43
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gently caress paying $100 after labor + taxes just to get two tires mounted and balanced on wheels that are already off the bike. Several of the local shops used to charge $25/wheel, but now they're all up to $35/wheel, plus tire disposal, plus anything else they can come up with. $15 for 3oz of DynaBeads?  I should be changing them at home, but I don't trust myself not to scratch the poo poo out of a wheel since I've had rim protectors slip on me before, and I don't have the room for a tire changer that'd get used maybe twice a year.
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Nov 3, 2016 16:44
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If your wheels are the tubeless type, I would definitely change them at home. You can make rim protectors out of laundry detergent bottle plastic, which is pretty thick but pliable. Three tire spoons and good tire lube, and bam, can't go wrong. (Might have to lay your body on the tire in order to seal it enough that air finally starts flowing into it.) Then, you just need ebay-sourced wheel weights, and, that's it... economic (aka spendthrift) tire replacement.
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Nov 3, 2016 18:04
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I marred the poo poo out of the wheels on the Ninja when I changed tires, but I wasn't using rim protectors or anything because I'm a dummy. Next time I have to do tires on it (probably never, as it's being sold ~soon~) I'll be sanding and repainting them. Other than not having a compressor to seat the beads, I was able to do both wheels with some soapy water, a prybar, and a pair of tire spoons in about 15 minutes per tire, but I did have a bit of experience going in to the ordeal. Proper tools make it about 1000x easier though, you should do that.
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Nov 3, 2016 18:56
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In the scenario where I have enough money to not only afford proper tools but also a place to put them, I also have enough money to not give a poo poo about just having someone do it for me every time, so I mean maybe if I get stupid rich somehow and end up having like half a dozen bikes.
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Nov 3, 2016 19:01
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Renaissance Robot posted:In the scenario where I have enough money to not only afford proper tools but also a place to put them, I also have enough money to not give a poo poo about just having someone do it for me every time, so Well I'm really thinking about three tire levers, rim protectors, and a bottle of tire spooge, not anything fancy like a manual stand or bubble balancer. That's like, $40? Or something near it, anyway.
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Nov 3, 2016 21:18
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I know we're past epoxychat here but I find the putty sticks to be a shitload stronger (JB SteelStik et al). Not sure if it's a different metal content, just different stuff in it or the simple fact that cutting a stick with a razor blade results in a more accurate mixture than trying to squeeze liquids with different viscosities out of tiny stiff rear end tubes and eyeballing it but I've never had the stuff fail where I've had nothing but poo poo luck with liquid steel epoxies.
Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Nov 3, 2016 |
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Nov 3, 2016 21:38
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Beach Bum posted:Well I'm really thinking about three tire levers, rim protectors, and a bottle of tire spooge, not anything fancy like a manual stand or bubble balancer. That's like, $40? Or something near it, anyway. I injured myself with tyre levers so many times with my bicycle (and sweat and cursed enough when I wasn't getting hurt) that it'd be one of those huge press type tyre removers or nothing.
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Nov 3, 2016 23:10
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My motorcycle is tiny so changing the tires was just like a bicycle but with more yelling
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Nov 3, 2016 23:33
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Cycle Asylum: Like a bicycle but with more yelling
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Nov 4, 2016 04:19
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A fan that redirects hot air from the rear cylinder and exhaust pipe? WHAT A NOVEL IDEA http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/stay-cool-with-new-coolflow-fan-kit-for-2017-harley-davidson-touring-motorcycles Sorry? I can't hear you over my 4" Spal.
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Nov 4, 2016 18:42
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clutchpuck posted:A fan that redirects hot air from the rear cylinder and exhaust pipe? WHAT A NOVEL IDEA and it's only $300
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Nov 4, 2016 18:48
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I think it's cute. Looks like another 4" paddle-blade Spal fan with the same speed-based cycling logic the Uly runs with the latest ECM update. I bet that thing is loud AF too
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Nov 4, 2016 18:59
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As if any part on a harley could be heard over the deafening straight pipes they always have. And the hearing damage from that and wind noise.
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Nov 4, 2016 19:02
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I can't usually hear the Uly fan over everything else while in motion, even with factory muffler. Except when it's not on at all. Then I swear I hear it. Phantom fan.
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Nov 4, 2016 19:05
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Rode back home today for my mum's birthday, almost 2 hours in the pouring rain and 5 minutes from home I lose power. I look down and everything is off. It wouldn't turn back on so I had to push it for half an hour uphill And then I find out I left my backpack open the entire ride 
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Nov 4, 2016 22:13
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Well I caved on being responsible and added a ton of service interval poo poo to the current repair on my bike. We'll know who our next president will be before I get it back.
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Nov 4, 2016 23:10
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Now that the cold weather is properly setting in, can I just take a moment to say "gently caress whatever idiot thinks metal fuel tanks are a good idea"? Thanks.
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Nov 4, 2016 23:34
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Did you freeze your nuts to it or something?
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Nov 4, 2016 23:49
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Renaissance Robot posted:Did you freeze your nuts to it or something? No, it was just intensely unpleasant this morning to have a very cold lump of metal leeching every bit of heat out of my body via my inner thighs. This is about the only time I miss my Shiver (heh) with it's lovely warm plastic tank.
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Nov 5, 2016 00:00
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The zzr runs pretty hot so I wouldn't know  Even when it's close to freezing out, the engine is dumping warm air over my knees within two minutes.
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Nov 5, 2016 00:11
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About 30cm / 1 foot of fresh snow just dropped, they had pre salted the local roads yesterday, about 5 months until spring. Though this winter i'll have it stored in room temperature indoors so I can replace various bits and refresh some frame and swingarm paint.
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Nov 5, 2016 15:44
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I'm so upset with this Cyclops led h4 right now. This is what? the 5th time I've tried to install it in the 690? First time- no spacer, headlight profile is garbage, noticeably dimmer than stock. 2nd - 5th times, try to install spacer to fix the beam profile but the tiny screws that hold the base and spacer are not long enough to thread with the spacer. So I end up stripping out 3 of these bases, which are made of soft plastic. Soft plastic, tiny screw threads, and only 2 screws, are made to hold the whole assembly to the bike. It's fine without the spacer, but with the spacer they strip if you look at them wrong. I'm so sick and tired of getting most of the way into this install and having the thing just fall apart at the last step. And why do they still use this cold white led when nuetral and warm white has been around for ages?
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Nov 8, 2016 21:01
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I bought some of these from Amazon and they have been awesome for a couple of years now even though Jim Silly-Balls seems to think that the fans are a ticking time bomb.
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Nov 8, 2016 21:32
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I have that one too but iirc the design of the cyclops is identical in every meaningful way.
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Nov 8, 2016 22:04
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I appreciate that. As RRobot said, they look to be identical to the ones that I already have. I spoke to a tech at cyclops and he offered to send me a part with the spacer already installed, free of charge. It's not my first time threading a small screw into a soft threaded hole, so I don't know how anything will be different, but I'll give it a try. Barring that, I guess I'll have to go hunt down an identical screw that has 2x the threads, so I can install this.
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Nov 8, 2016 22:29
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Coydog posted:It's not my first time threading a small screw into a soft threaded hole I'll take "things said in Coydog's bedroom last night", Alex
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Nov 8, 2016 22:56
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