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The Door Frame posted:As for the T-Jet, that's only 120hp with a turbo on a relatively new engine. That's about double stock numbers and keeping it Fiat is a nice idea, but even non-VTEC B18's and B20's make at least 20 more horsepower with about the same torque. Plus, I could get a B-series and a compatible manual transmission for ~$500 tomorrow morning from a local wrecker. The cheapest T-Jet and manual transmission I can find is just under $4,000 including shipping. That's worth every second of squeezing an almost too large engine into that tiny engine bay Admittedly being nitpicky here, but some years of the B18 were 130 hp, not 140 - I think they got the bump to 140 for the 92 model year. If the stamp on the block is B18B1, then it's the newer ~142hp version. The B18A1 can be either 130 or 140, if it's from the Integra (there was a completely unrelated B18 and B20 used in 80s Accords and Preludes). Also, just FYI, some years of B series manuals use a cable operated clutch instead of hydraulic. At least on US models, they went to hydraulic for the 94 model year Integra. Just something to keep in mind when you're trying to find a transaxle. And the gearboxes from the 80s B series isn't compatible with the "modern" B series. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:52 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 03:45
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Nitpick away, my friend, these are all hypotheticals and enough holes being poked could save me a lot of time and money. Two beautiful X1/9's have already slipped through my fingers, so I'm not expecting to get a chance to build a Frankenstein B-TEC, since I wouldn't do transaxles again without one of those babies. Although I did mean the B20z, I think that's the the designation, out of the late 90's CRV. The old B20's aren't on my radar since I don't think that they're compatible with VTEC heads like the CRV ones are E:  https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/5861256417.html
The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 04:02
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You'd be correct. The B20B (early CR-V engine) is similar to the B20Z (late 90s) though, just a little less power stock. Might be able to get that one a little cheaper, maybe, just because of the age. I'm not really sure of the difference in internals, but don't expect any B20 bottom end to rev as high as a B18 (unless you like installing windows in the block). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 04:09
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The Door Frame posted:What's up with the Rover V8? I know that the Rover cars have a really bad reputation for being unreliable, but I haven't heard much about engine troubles from them, usually I just hear about the cars themselves falling apart and having worse electrical problems than any German car. Rover V8 is a relatively anemic motor, based on an old Buick design from like 1960. It's a nice upgrade from most stock engines, but it's relatively low-displacement with about the same physical dimensions as a SBC. So if space is the concern there's really nothing to choose between them, but the Rover will never make as much power. Plus all parts, from stock to race spec, are gonna be a thousand times harder to get, since they were used in one relatively small import brand; compare with how many small blocks have been sold across... how many GM marques? 5? 6? It's not a bad engine, it's just a bad choice if you're in the US and can't walk ten feet without tripping over a cheap LS block.
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Nov 6, 2016 08:16
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InitialDave posted:It appears to be shared with the main gearbox. Thanks! Where did you find that? My manual barely even mentions the 4WD manual variant, or may not at all. I don't even remember. What i didn't say is that when I was doing a CV boot I drained some of the gearbox sparklies. There was oil in with them at least. Yeah... So I'm going to do more or less what I did with the Niva when some Castrol oil did the exact same loving thing. Put some new oil in of a different brand and some of the Nulon teflon goo. The teflon stuff isn't something I'd recommend to everyone, but it can work magic. Given the old oil looks like a batch of brass pearlescent paint there's really nothing left to lose.
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Nov 6, 2016 13:03
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The Door Frame posted:What's up with the Rover V8? I know that the Rover cars have a really bad reputation for being unreliable, but I haven't heard much about engine troubles from them, usually I just hear about the cars themselves falling apart and having worse electrical problems than any German car. They're like the Chrysler Powertech. If that's what you've got, fair enough, but I see no reason to actively choose one if you're in a blank sheet situation. The Door Frame posted:As for the T-Jet, that's only 120hp with a turbo on a relatively new engine. That's about double stock numbers and keeping it Fiat is a nice idea, but even non-VTEC B18's and B20's make at least 20 more horsepower with about the same torque. Plus, I could get a B-series and a compatible manual transmission for ~$500 tomorrow morning from a local wrecker. The cheapest T-Jet and manual transmission I can find is just under $4,000 including shipping. That's worth every second of squeezing an almost too large engine into that tiny engine bay The Honda option is definitely better all round. General_Failure posted:Thanks! Where did you find that? My manual barely even mentions the 4WD manual variant, or may not at all. I don't even remember. InitialDave fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 13:27
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InitialDave posted:They aren't particularly powerful, expensive to (not) get power out of, and they have a deserved reputation for problems with things like head gaskets and liners. Later ones are better in that they somewhat improved the head bolt arrangement and cross-bolted the mains, but still, I'll always say that the only good things about them is that in the UK they're common and relatively cheap, and still have that V8 sound. Enourmo posted:Rover V8 is a relatively anemic motor, based on an old Buick design from like 1960. It's a nice upgrade from most stock engines, but it's relatively low-displacement with about the same physical dimensions as a SBC. So if space is the concern there's really nothing to choose between them, but the Rover will never make as much power. Plus all parts, from stock to race spec, are gonna be a thousand times harder to get, since they were used in one relatively small import brand; compare with how many small blocks have been sold across... how many GM marques? 5? 6? Stupid British MG forums, making me think that the
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Nov 6, 2016 17:18
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I've got a stupid question about a 99 Nissan Maxima. Recently, one of my coil packs went out. I went ahead and replaced all of them (I've also recently put new factory spark plugs on). However, now it's giving me error code P1320, which is weak spark. I've taken my multi meter to the coil packs, and everything tests good. However, the connectors to the coil pack are only delivering 11.2 volts instead of 12. According to this thread and a YouTube troubleshooting video for code 1320, I'm thinking it's the ignition condenser. However, I can't find hide nor hair of where to buy that part, and the guys at advance auto have no idea what the heck that part is. I've tried searching ignition capacitor and other stuff, but I'm stumped. Any advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated! Just a side note, my battery is only putting out 12.3 volts, and it's two years old. Could it be related perhaps?
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Nov 6, 2016 18:12
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The Door Frame posted:Stupid British MG forums, making me think that the  tendencies.OSU_Matthew posted:Just a side note, my battery is only putting out 12.3 volts, and it's two years old. Could it be related perhaps?
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Nov 6, 2016 18:40
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InitialDave posted:If you mean forums of actual British owners of MGs, they simply don't know any better and usually have Sorry, should have clarified that was with the engine off. The alternator is working alright, it's putting out 14.1v with the engine running. Just seems like the battery should be holding a higher voltage. Went to a different auto parts store, and they were equally clueless, but I think I found what I'm looking for on eBay . Does that look about right, or has anyone ever had similar issues that could offer some insight? E: I guess a better question to ask, a failing capacitor could cause voltage loss further down the circuit, right? Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Nov 6, 2016 |
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Nov 6, 2016 19:21
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InitialDave posted:If you mean forums of actual British owners of MGs, they simply don't know any better and usually have Exactly, it was always "the Rover V8 was in the MGB GT8 and the TR8, it'll be so easy to fit it into an MGB. It even weighs as much as the stock engine so it won't impact handling too much, it's much better than the 60º V6 kits." Oh well, at least the newer 60º engines have some weird OHV version of VVT and are almost as common as Honda B's in wrecking yards
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Nov 6, 2016 22:19
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A Miata engine and trnasmission is not the worst thing to put in one, either.
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Nov 6, 2016 22:46
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Question about the dexcool stuff. I'm about to replace the waterpump on my lumina sometime in the next few days, should I dump it all and replace with normal green coolant? If I do would I need to like flush the remainder out with water or would just emptying it and putting the new stuff in be fine?
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Nov 6, 2016 23:10
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You would need to flush it very well if you were to change coolant types.
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Nov 6, 2016 23:16
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It came up recently in another thread, but when exposed to other coolant types and additives, it forms "pudding" that corrodes any plastic or aluminum it contacts
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Nov 6, 2016 23:24
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Can anyone identify the car here driven by the Lord of Flavortown?
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Nov 7, 2016 02:06
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Memento posted:Can anyone identify the car here driven by the Lord of Flavortown? Looks like a 2016 Camaro 'vert.
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Nov 7, 2016 02:11
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Thats a Camaro convertible.
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Nov 7, 2016 02:12
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West SAAB Story posted:Looks like a 2016 Camaro 'vert. Older model, the gauges give it away.
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Nov 7, 2016 02:13
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Older model, the gauges give it away. All I saw was a fat rear end in a car with a fat rear end, so I used the wheels to gauge my reply.
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Nov 7, 2016 02:13
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Hey my change oil light keeps coming on [and then going off] [only when I start the car] and I just got my oil changed about 1000 miles ago. Is there a reason for this? I can just hold the button down in the glove box but I want to know why its coming on.
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Nov 7, 2016 04:57
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What car? Have you checked the oil level?
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Nov 7, 2016 05:09
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The Door Frame posted:It came up recently in another thread, but when exposed to other coolant types and additives, it forms "pudding" that corrodes any plastic or aluminum it contacts Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You would need to flush it very well if you were to change coolant types. alrighty then, ill just keep the dexcool. sounds like it would be too much trouble and risk.
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Nov 7, 2016 05:19
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bikesonyx posted:Hey my change oil light keeps coming on [and then going off] [only when I start the car] and I just got my oil changed about 1000 miles ago. Is there a reason for this? I can just hold the button down in the glove box but I want to know why its coming on. You sure this isn't the usual test illumination at start up?
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Nov 7, 2016 07:23
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I need some help diagnosing a ticking noise. 1999 Ford Ranger, 3.0 V6 with roughly 100k miles. Started ticking a month ago and got noticeably worse after some highway driving including a 5k rpm pull to pass (oops). It ticks loudly when under load, can't be heard from the driver's seat when coasting or off throttle and is very quiet when revving in park or neutral. It is definitely coming from the driver's side of the engine bay. I'm assuming it is a collapsed lifter, but I suppose it could also be an exhaust leak or maybe a fuel injector? I'm trying to narrow down my possibilities before placing a Rock Auto order. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope and started poking around, but didn't hear anything that really stuck out. I've never used one before so maybe my technique is to blame? Placing the probe on the valve cover roughly above each rocker all sounded about the same, placing the probe on the exhaust manifold runner coming out of the rear cylinder had a slight tick to it but not really at the same speed. Didn't have a chance to place the probe on the driver's side fuel injectors since they're buried under the manifold but I'll try again tomorrow. I'll also try to record some audio/video of it but I'm not sure if the microphone on my phone can handle it. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
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Nov 7, 2016 07:26
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Change your oil a few times, including a change with kerosene or MMO and a 20 mile drive?
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Nov 7, 2016 07:45
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Long Francesco posted:alrighty then, ill just keep the dexcool. sounds like it would be too much trouble and risk. Same reason I stuck with it. My own opinion is so long as you treat it like any other coolant and change it every 2-3 years (instead of 7), you'll be fine, but some people will disagree.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:12
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A few of you will remember that I pulled, had rebuilt, and then reinstalled the 700R4 in my 92 chevy S-10 this summer. My wife noticed a couple weeks ago that when I put the truck into reverse, the reverse lights flash on but don't stay on. I'm not sure where to look first to diagnose this. Is there a plug on the transmission that could have a fouled wire? Or is it the position of the shifter (column shifter)? Or some wiring/fusebox fuckery? It's clearly not an actually severed connection or blown fuse since the lights do flash on, I just don't really know what the issue might be. Most likely it's been borked since I did the work, I wouldn't have noticed the reverse lights not staying on until someone outside the vehicle pointed it out.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:04
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My pretty '89 F150 won't idle anymore! Starts up fine and can keep it alive with gas, but it won't idle. Everything I've read about this issue points towards first checking out the IAC (idle air control valve?) Is it worth unplugging it and trying to clean it out or should I just replace it while I'm at it-- rockauto has em for around 30-40 bucks.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:11
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Razzled posted:My pretty '89 F150 won't idle anymore! Starts up fine and can keep it alive with gas, but it won't idle. Everything I've read about this issue points towards first checking out the IAC (idle air control valve?) If it's any consolation my '89 F150 won't brake anymore. I started backing out the driveway the other day... and just kept on rolling right into the neighbor's yard across the street. Have you tried cleaning the throttle body? Not likely this, but have you tried replacing the fuel filter as well? Just spitballing low hanging fruit
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Nov 7, 2016 22:11
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What would be a better gas to run in an original 1959 MEL 430 motor with 10.0:1 compression? 87 ethanol free or 91 with ethanol? Use will be more cruising than racing.
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Nov 7, 2016 23:09
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So a followup on my Honda Fit rough start/die on cold idle. I replaced the plugs and coil packs (because I'm over 100k miles on the originals, and it's probably time anyway). Problem didn't go away, so the next possible culprit is valve clearances inside the engine. I called a dealership and a trusted independent shop about pricing out the service, and the quotes came back at $450-ish to get it done there. It's either that or learn it myself from Youtube University. After thinking it over for a couple weeks, I thought I'd try calling a few more places for a quote. One quoted me $650, and two other dealerships quoted $225 and $250. That made the decision real easy. When my wife went to pick up the car after it was done, the service adviser was asking her why we brought it in for that oddly specific service, and she mentioned that it was because of the stalling problem. The guy got super huffy and condescending, saying we should have told him about that in the first place so they could diagnose it, and how do you know it's even going to fix the problem and you can't trust things you read on the internet blah blah blah. Problem is now completely fixed. Suck it, dealership service adviser.
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Nov 7, 2016 23:48
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joat mon posted:What would be a better gas to run in an original 1959 MEL 430 motor with 10.0:1 compression? 87 ethanol free or 91 with ethanol? Use will be more cruising than racing. Depends on what the fuel system is made of. Cars that old weren't expecting ethanol and used stuff that doesn't play well with it. Some types of rubber in gaskets, and zinc in carburetors, particularly. On the other hand, leaded regular was 89 octane, so you need higher octane without the ethanol (until you know it's safe, anyway). 87 is probably OK, but I would recommend 87 pure gasoline with a safe octane booster. I had a '59 Edsel for a while and that's what I did, anyway.
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Nov 8, 2016 00:32
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I'd worry about the valve seats, unless that motor was rebuilt with hardened seats to deal with the non leaded gas.
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Nov 8, 2016 00:37
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Wait, when was leaded fuel banned in America? Google says 1996, but that can't be right, can it? Maybe I'm not asking the right question, when was it common practice to design cars in the NA market to run on unleaded gas?
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Nov 8, 2016 00:54
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OneStopShop posted:I need some help diagnosing a ticking noise. Few things to try: Motorcraft oil filter. Rangers can get upset by some oil filters and get noisy. Try 89 gas. If that helps you might need new plugs, wires, and possibly coil pack replacement. http://rogueperformance.com/pinging.html
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Nov 8, 2016 00:54
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The Door Frame posted:Wait, when was leaded fuel banned in America? Google says 1996, but that can't be right, can it? It still isn't. At least, in the aviation world. A LOT of gen-av craft still run 100LL fuel. Not sure when it was banned for automotive use.
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Nov 8, 2016 00:55
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Leperflesh posted:A few of you will remember that I pulled, had rebuilt, and then reinstalled the 700R4 in my 92 chevy S-10 this summer. Do they work with the truck turned off? Do both turn signal bulbs work. quote:Before clipping any wires, keep in mind that most older model year trucks have the same bulb filament used for both the brake function and the turn indicator function. For that to work, the brake wire runs to the turn indicator, so that when you turn on the flashing turn signal, it switches out the brake light signal for that side so that the two signals don't collide. So don't just check the brake light. Also check the turn signals. In my case, the brake lights didn't work but the turn signals did, so that told me the wiring to the bulbs was OK and the wiring running in the frame was OK and the bulb contacts were OK. So I assume I need to check the brake light switch, the fuse, and for a truck, any wiring done for the trailer hitch to make sure it is OK.
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Nov 8, 2016 00:57
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Could be something as simple as a broken wire near the trans (so when the drivetrain torques side to side due to shifting from D/N to R it flexes and makes contact briefly) or a bad reverse light switch or transmission range switch/neutral safety switch (not sure which one that tranny uses - probably a reverse light switch knowing GM?) that has gunked up contacts, too.
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Nov 8, 2016 01:00
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The Door Frame posted:Wait, when was leaded fuel banned in America? Google says 1996, but that can't be right, can it? Unleaded gas started appearing in the mid 70s, as automakers chose to install catalytic converters to cope with tightening emissions regulations.
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Nov 8, 2016 01:21
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