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Nerobro posted:Something tells me I should do a video of it when I do it to my quad. That alone is "just about" the only documentation of that. I wonder if it's a voltage divider, the proper method might be to replace one resistor. A video would be hugely helpful if you could make one (or if there's a better option than just bridging the resistors). I don't believe the BeeBrain does LVC - I think you have to set a timer and try not to wreck your battery. Some of the newer Inductrix FCs that have been coming out apparently have telemetry for tracking voltage, which is a nice improvement.
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Nov 3, 2016 20:33
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If I don't want super long Rx antenna wires can I shorten them as long as I keep the exposed active element the same length? Or just solder a wire directly to the active element like a sat. rx? Dealing with a TGY i6B/C for the first time, I'm used to spektrum sats.
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Nov 4, 2016 08:47
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bring back old gbs posted:If I don't want super long Rx antenna wires can I shorten them as long as I keep the exposed active element the same length? I believe this is the case yes. One of the RX's i purchased a while back had a little guide to help you cut the exposed part to the correct length. If you get the length even slightly wrong i believe it will negatively impact your range.
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Nov 4, 2016 10:41
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squidgee posted:A video would be hugely helpful if you could make one (or if there's a better option than just bridging the resistors). I did the research. There's no facility in betaflight to cause the quad to shut down at a specific voltage. That will be added in the next revision. So for now, beebrain quads fly till the battery dies, or your timer says otherwise. I'll do the video this weekend. I ran out of time last night. I won't get home till 10-11 tonight ,so I will have a quiet house to work with. If it's what I think it is, we "should" be able to change the value of the voltage divider to force a lower cutout voltage. But that's going to take parts, and some quite fiddily soldering. Shorting it out is still a good option. So... look for a video monday night. I'll post it here.
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Nov 4, 2016 17:25
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Daaaaaaaaamn Fuuuuuuuugggggggg I was wrong about the Evolution, I just got the RX wired in to my daily flyer and even without RC expo it feels like it has expo, the gimbals are really easy to finely move around the center anda there is like 50% more throw to the sticks. Something is screwy with it though, it works for a few minutes, then I get 2 beeps from somewhere(I think it may be the Rx unit, not my FC beeper) and it starts behaving erratically. Plugging it into the FC and throwing the sticks around I can see the Rx just sort of stutters and stops taking input for a second or so, then I get it back and then it happens again. Always after those 2 beeps.
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Nov 4, 2016 19:09
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I ordered one of those micro flysky RX's from banggood someone posted in here a while back to use w/ my Evolution. Still haven't been able to fly with mine yet because the iA6C rx it comes with is so comically large i can't fit it on my atom at all, even de-pinned. And the antennas are ridiculously long on it as well. I've never had good luck trimming back antenna shielding without loving up the antenna insulator as well.
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Nov 4, 2016 19:18
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n.. posted:I ordered one of those micro flysky RX's from banggood someone posted in here a while back to use w/ my Evolution. Still haven't been able to fly with mine yet because the iA6C rx it comes with is so comically large i can't fit it on my atom at all, even de-pinned. And the antennas are ridiculously long on it as well. I've never had good luck trimming back antenna shielding without loving up the antenna insulator as well. Yeah that's what I am dealing with today. I'm considering just using the active elements alone, I never fly far enough away to cause failsafes with my sat. RX's built that way. Luckily I'm putting ia6c into a 145mm so there's plenty of room. EDIT: I can't believe it took me this long to notice but there are no subtrim adjustment buttons around the gimbals. Neat bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Nov 4, 2016 |
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Nov 4, 2016 20:21
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Reasonably steady progress on the new plane. Got a tailboom mount printed and glued the 2 center halves together. I then made a mating piece for securing the tailboom to the fuselage and it all went together relatively smoothly:  Printed a motor mount with retaining nuts, which should make motor install/maintenance easy. This then got glued with gorilla glue and clamped.    I then also got the inner plywood support cut out. There will be 2 'decks', all held up with 4mm carbon tubes, so it should be plenty strong.  I also lasered out a plywood piece to support the wing mount, but the laser cutter is set up to use inkscape and something went wrong in the conversion from illustrator and it was the wrong size. (It has happened before, I just forgot to check for it). I wont be able to access the laser again until Sunday and I wont be able to progress until I get those. I ended up ordering the wings from a Finwing Sabre and I was pretty impressed with the quality of both their mold, foam and design. A few transport dings and they should probably have double-boxed them. They're thinner than the Skywalker wings and should be a bit more slippery. Oh and a couple of CAD renders. Wings are just placeholders.  
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Nov 5, 2016 07:11
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What material are you printing in?
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Nov 5, 2016 08:03
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Nylon and PLA, depending on what it's for and what I got on the printer  .The tailboom mount inside the fuselage got plenty of support, so it was printing in PLA, as it was easier to deal with the shrinkage. Motor mount, stabilator mounts will be in Nylon, as they'll be exposed to more stress and the flex will come in handy.
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Nov 5, 2016 08:11
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Slash posted:You can disable the Inductrix LVC with a little bit of soldering. Obviously at your own risk, I haven't done this mod yet but i am planning to. so, amusingly, those aren't resistors they're pointing at. its a resistor and a cap. that said, it looks like there's a voltage divider, with two 10k resistors to tell the board what the voltage of the battery is. shorting that resistor to the cap makes the board think the battery voltage is 2x what it really is.. I think. And while i'm at it, I flew it without the camera. I got 6+ minutes flight time with a 210 battery. I also pulled apart the battery connector, and squeezed the contacts a little. As opposed to completely replacing the connector on the battery. I haven't done the soldering yet. I promised a video, and you don't want a guy who's done a 12 hour shift doing soldering. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 10:15 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 10:02
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Are you cutting this foam yourself? Is it from a block, or is it an expanding foam you spray and cut away?  Turnigy Evolution continues to make me happy, I have so much more control over throttle than I did before. Failsafe is screwy with this thing though. It has Failsafe options in the TX, which I set up to kill air mode, drop throttle to zero and disarm. But this didn't work, I''d put the quad in air mode, shut the TX off and it just kept doing whatever it was commanded to do last. That's a huge loving problem as far as I am concerned. The only acceptable failsafe behaviour to me is to fall out of the sky with the motors actively braked. So I turned all that poo poo off and set it up in Betaflight Failsafe STAGE 1, but even that didn't work. Same behaviour, just maintained the last input it was given when the TX is powered off. Ended up having to enable Failsafe STAGE 2 and tell it to "drop." After that I could shut the TX off while motors were spinning and they would brake and disarm. With a spektrum sat. this is just the default behaviour, when I shut my TX off it shuts down everything on the quad basically. I've never set up a "failsafe" menu in my TX, or Betaflight, never had to set this up via software before. Just FYI. Unsure if this is a common procedure with Taranis/Whatever else is out there. bring back old gbs fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 20:26
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 I'm kind of a newb pilot, and a newb builder as well. I built this guy, with a 30" span, 8" chord Kline-Fogleman wing. Ailerons and elevator, no rudder. The flight characteristics were... interesting. It will fly at a decently low speed, but it tip stalls so easily at those speeds. Is that normal? - Am I simply flying too slow when I'm yanking and banking, causing the tip stalls? - Could the wing loading is too high? I could decrease weight with a smaller battery and skinnier fuselage. Or, I could add to the wingspan. - Perhaps the CG is off. I balanced it at 25% from the leading edge, somewhat nose heavy. I could go a little more aggressive on the CG. - I can't help but wonder how much the pusher configuration is to blame here. I have the prop angled flat, not tilted up as I usually see on Bixlers and the like.
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Nov 5, 2016 21:13
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That wing's awful short :/ You could literally take the whole drat fuselage off, move to a puller prop, and lose no capability. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Nov 5, 2016 |
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Nov 5, 2016 21:16
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bring back old gbs posted:Are you cutting this foam yourself? Is it from a block, or is it an expanding foam you spray and cut away? It's CNC'd from standard insulation foam.  bring back old gbs posted:
You need to set it up in Betaflight. It's what everybody else does.
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Nov 5, 2016 22:23
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bring back old gbs posted:With a spektrum sat. this is just the default behaviour, when I shut my TX off it shuts down everything on the quad basically. I've never set up a "failsafe" menu in my TX, or Betaflight, never had to set this up via software before. Just FYI. Unsure if this is a common procedure with Taranis/Whatever else is out there. Makes me glad I have a Crossfire now, you can set that poo poo over-the-air via the menu in the transmitter. Firmware updates also go OTA.
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Nov 6, 2016 03:48
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:
I Am Not An Aeronautical Engineer but your span-to-chord ratio makes the plane look more like a missile than an airplane, IMO. What if you made it like 50% longer?
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Nov 6, 2016 20:49
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I added some dihedral with wingtip extensions, rebuilt the fuselage to be lighter, got rid of the landing gear, and replaced the 8x6 prop with a 5x3. It feels less draggy and more efficient. It stayed up for about 30 minutes on the 2200mAH pack. With no gear, the servos on the bottom of the wings are a major weakness. I'm learning lots I'd say.
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Nov 7, 2016 03:20
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What motor were you using? going from a 8x6 down to a 5x3 is a pretty drastic change. Something else to keep in mind is you have a huge amount of vertical area ahead of the CG. That big fuse will cause a lot of drag and instability.
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Nov 7, 2016 04:31
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Ares 1400kv. The fuselage is open on the front, so should not present too much drag. It's been decreased from 3"x3" in the photo to 3"x1.5". The change down to a 5x3 was after breaking the 8x6 and chipping a 7x5... so it was all I had left but worked well efficiency-wise 
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Nov 7, 2016 06:19
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What battery are you running? That's a pretty small prop for a 1400kv motor.
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Nov 7, 2016 15:03
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I did the LVC mod on both of my tiny whoops. Set a timer on my taranis for about 3mins, as they rapidly lose power after that. Batteries come in at about 3.65-3.70V. You only need to short the resistor(component closest to the processor(?)). I think i need to replace some of my motors, some come down significantly hotter than others, which i think is a sign that they are dying. Also i accidentally desoldered the capacitor(?) while doing the mod and it hasn't seemed to have had any negative effect.
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Nov 7, 2016 18:15
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Slash posted:I did the LVC mod on both of my tiny whoops. Set a timer on my taranis for about 3mins, as they rapidly lose power after that. Batteries come in at about 3.65-3.70V. I had similar problems. I took out both the resistor and cap nearer the power leads. I did do some measuring. Full batttery across that voltage divider is 3v. So... if you have a hot air rework tool, putting in an 8 or 7k resistor would make everything "work right"
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Nov 7, 2016 20:59
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Got the internal cage assembled and glued up: While it was strong enough once glued it was a bit of a pain to keep straight, so next version will have some plywood support pieces just for that: Fitted in the fuselage  And all buttoned up:  This is where I hope all my measurements (and a few guesses) are all correct as it'll be a pain changing it. A few hours later and my first test assembly:  Other tables were full, so I couldn't take any picture that really does it justice, but I'm quite stoked about this. Next step is composite layups and vacuum-bagging the stabilators and non-vacuum fiberglass covering of the fuselage. I got an extended break over Xmas/New Years and are aiming for a maiden then.
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Nov 10, 2016 08:49
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That's a beefy boy. Where is the wing from?
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Nov 11, 2016 01:11
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A Yolo Wizard posted:That's a beefy boy. Where is the wing from? The wings are from a Finwing Sabre. I was able to order them separately. They are thinner than the Skywalker wings, so should hopefully be less draggy and are also prepped for flaps.
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Nov 11, 2016 01:32
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Anyone using these Eachine EV800 goggles? Banggood has them 20% off for $60. I ordered a pair for a second monitor/highly portable pair.
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Nov 11, 2016 15:16
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So, I did a fun test last weekend. I say helicopters are better than multirotors, especially when it comes to flight time. And.. I finally got off my duff and did a test. These are with a 205mah lipo: Blade Inductrix: 5:30 (with LVC disabled) Blade MCX: 15:30 Yes, fifteen minutes. With similar weight airframes.
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Nov 11, 2016 15:43
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Makes me wonder how practical putting a flight controller on a helicopter would be. I'm sure it's been done, but I haven't really come across it.
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Nov 11, 2016 15:54
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Golluk posted:Makes me wonder how practical putting a flight controller on a helicopter would be. I'm sure it's been done, but I haven't really come across it. APM supports it though I'm sure the heli revisions are not nearly as mature as the multirotor revisions now. It seems that helis require some amount of mechanical aptitude and adjustment to make work well and multirotors don't. So the software and electronics guys who love writing flight controllers are attracted to multirotors because you can make a passable one out of two sticks and some banggood power components.
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Nov 11, 2016 16:14
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Right, I suppose the toilet bowl flight characteristics can be a touch hard to program for.
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Nov 11, 2016 17:00
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Am I missing something? They have flight controllers already, there's no way you could control a flybarless helicopter without one. I can't imagine integrating some of the other stuff would be all that difficult. Problem is like you said though, quads are popular and easy, and most helicopter pilots are doing it for 3D or scale stuff. I have seen a few helicopter camera platforms though.
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Nov 11, 2016 18:34
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There's APM with some sort of support, and there's the OpenPilot branch of projects that have some support (there seem to be some amount of users, because dRonin is having a hard time to argue removal of the virtual flybar code).
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Nov 11, 2016 18:46
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subx posted:Am I missing something? They have flight controllers already, there's no way you could control a flybarless helicopter without one. I can't imagine integrating some of the other stuff would be all that difficult. Problem is like you said though, quads are popular and easy, and most helicopter pilots are doing it for 3D or scale stuff. I have seen a few helicopter camera platforms though. Robert Lefebreve is one of the ardupilot devs and is pushing the helicopter side with some impressive results: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Os88X9NzuMM I have toyed with the idea, as you can get far superior payload and endurance from a gas helicopter compared to an electric multirotor, but at the cost of increased complexity and lack of redundancies. Edit: Even his electric helicopters are impressive: 1 hour flight with 1kg payload: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0kmjMzRpnMw
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Nov 11, 2016 19:04
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Right, I guess it's more the GPS hold and RTH stuff I'm thinking of. Been a while since I last flew my V911. Those are some impressive Helicopters. I wonder what the batteries are on that electric one. If I had to guess, it's looking like 6S 5AH each?
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Nov 11, 2016 20:23
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Slash posted:I did the LVC mod on both of my tiny whoops. Set a timer on my taranis for about 3mins, as they rapidly lose power after that. Batteries come in at about 3.65-3.70V. I just recently learned that adding a little bit of sewing machine oil to my bearings periodically can increase the life of my motors on my 250. I haven't had much exposure to the tiny whoops yet, are the motors sealed on those? You could be experiencing a dry bearing.
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Nov 14, 2016 03:42
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Rubber Elemental posted:I just recently learned that adding a little bit of sewing machine oil to my bearings periodically can increase the life of my motors on my 250. I haven't had much exposure to the tiny whoops yet, are the motors sealed on those? You could be experiencing a dry bearing. Bushings. You only have access to the front one also.
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Nov 14, 2016 06:21
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Rubber Elemental posted:I just recently learned that adding a little bit of sewing machine oil to my bearings periodically can increase the life of my motors on my 250. I haven't had much exposure to the tiny whoops yet, are the motors sealed on those? You could be experiencing a dry bearing. Micro Brushed motors are just a consumable item, after a while you just have to replace them. I've ordered a bunch of replacements from Banggood. This is the first time I've had one wear out, as opposed to me crashing it and having the motor cap pop-off.
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Nov 14, 2016 11:47
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Anyone have any experience removing caps on the escs? Having issues fitting a Pico blx, innova, and esc in a 20mm stack. Looking to shed some height.
Unsane fucked around with this message at 02:53 on Nov 15, 2016 |
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Nov 15, 2016 02:48
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Bend them the other direction?
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Nov 15, 2016 02:50
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