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Anne Whateley posted:No, not something you need to reset daily, that would be nuts. Look at stuff like http://m.homedepot.com/p/GE-3-Way-Sunsmart-In-Wall-Digital-Timer-15312/202788253 Oh, that's cool, I've never seen a switch like that. That'd fit the bill nicely, and makes the change out a non-issue, just replace the switch and set it up. Thanks!
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Nov 7, 2016 18:01
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Anne Whateley posted:No, not something you need to reset daily, that would be nuts. Look at stuff like http://m.homedepot.com/p/GE-3-Way-Sunsmart-In-Wall-Digital-Timer-15312/202788253 Oh here is a thing I don't need but is stocking stuffer sized. Awesome.
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Nov 7, 2016 18:04
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I have 2 of https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2 and they look and work great. Needs a neutral and ground though.
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Nov 7, 2016 18:43
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Bozart posted:I have 2 of https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2 and they look and work great. Needs a neutral and ground though. I ended up going with this one because it seems ti have the same functionality and I like the look more: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AIKQZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Nov 7, 2016 19:45
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Bozart posted:I have 2 of https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Econoswitch-RPLS740B-Programmable-Switch/dp/B004AP92N2 and they look and work great. Needs a neutral and ground though. Looks like they all require the neutral wire, which makes sense. Thanks for pointing that out. I guess I will open up my faceplate and see if there is one in there. I do like the look of the Leviton one more than the GE or Honeywell. I mostly am going to care about the backlight being off unless I'm programming it.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:52
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A successful day in the Fix it Fast thread!
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Nov 7, 2016 19:55
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Can someone do a quickie post on hot/neutral/ground in a 3-prong socket? I understand that ground is going to be (should be) a local ground at that location, but what exactly is neutral? Isn't it going to have 120V 60Hz running through it anyway? And if not, what's the difference between neutral and ground?
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Nov 7, 2016 20:11
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Bad Munki posted:I ended up going with this one because it seems ti have the same functionality and I like the look more: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AIKQZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I actually just installed that very switch on my front porch light yesterday. Worked fine last night. I even have it coming on 45 minutes before sunset, since our front door is in a shaded area on the northeast side of the house, so it tends to get dark a little earlier. H110Hawk posted:I mostly am going to care about the backlight being off unless I'm programming it. That's the case with the Leviton linked above. n0tqu1tesane fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 20:16
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n0tqu1tesane posted:I actually just installed that very switch on my front porch light yesterday. Worked fine last night. I even have it coming on 45 minutes before sunset, since our front door is in a shaded area on the northeast side of the house, so it tends to get dark a little earlier. That is exactly what I wanted! Awesome.
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Nov 7, 2016 20:21
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hogmartin posted:Can someone do a quickie post on hot/neutral/ground in a 3-prong socket? Disclaimer: I am a scrub at electrical networks. Someone like kid_sinister could do a much better job at this, and there may be errors below. But basically, the hot and neutral wires are what form the standard electrical circuit. Electricity flows from the panel, through the hot wire, out the receptacle and into your electrical device, does work, returns to the receptacle, then travels down the neutral wire back to the panel. I'm not sure why they're called "hot" and "neutral". Probably something to do with differing electrical potentials. The ground wire is just there to let you detect ground faults, where your receptacle / electrical device becomes energized. The ground also provides a path back to the panel, but it's an "incorrect" path that leads to more current flowing out along the hot than is returning along the neutral. The circuit breaker detects this difference and flips, cutting off electricity. If you didn't have the ground wire, then the circuit (and the receptacle) would stay energized, and you could accidentally shock yourself by touching both the energized receptacle/device and the neutral wire, thereby completing a circuit. The big thing to remember about electricity is that it always forms circuits. No circuit, no electrical flow, nothing happens. Grounds give the ability to create a circuit, allowing us to detect the problem before it kills someone.
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Nov 7, 2016 21:13
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I just finished winterizing my house, and I ruined one of my hoses by leaving it attached all summer: the dissimilar metals corroded and made a soft weld together. I can replace the end on the hose, but for next year I was thinking of adding some anti-seize compound. Is there something recommended for this, or just any plain old grease?
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Nov 7, 2016 21:32
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hogmartin posted:Can someone do a quickie post on hot/neutral/ground in a 3-prong socket? The ground does not normally carry current, but provides a path back to the transformer neutral point (to complete the circuit) in case a fault were to occur. For example, if the hot touches the metal enclosure your plug-in device is in, if the enclosure was not connected to the ground, you could potentially get shocked if you touched the enclosure, since the enclosure would be "energized" with no way of completing the circuit. With the enclosure grounded, the hot touching the enclosure should create a short circuit causing the circuit's breaker to trip. The neutral is also connected back to the neutral point of the transformer, however it is intended to carry current. Note that there should be almost no voltage on the neutral, not 120V; the voltage drops across the load. The reason why the neutral and ground are required is that if you used the neutral as your ground, a "grounded" metal enclosure would then be current carrying. This creates two issues. 1) if something were to happen to the neutral, causing it to be disconnected downstream of the device, the device will stop working, but its metal enclosure would also be live. And 2) if you were to touch the metal enclosure, depending on the conditions (basically your resistance to ground) your body could become part of the current path. Edit: started writing my post then got distracted. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Disclaimer: I am a scrub at electrical networks. Someone like kid_sinister could do a much better job at this, and there may be errors below. Pretty much spot on, only incorrect part is that the neutral and ground should pretty much see the same current if the hot touched them directly (difference would be miniscule, if any). The circuit breaker, unless you have a GFCI, doesn't measure any difference in current, it just trips if the rated current is exceed (more or less, it's a bit more complicated with time vs. current curves, and stuff, but that depends on the type of breaker; for residential use none of that matters though. A GFCI breaker, on the other hand, actively measures the difference between the current in the hot and neutral wires. If they aren't equal, the breaker trips. Special A fucked around with this message at 21:51 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 21:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Disclaimer: I am a scrub at electrical networks. Someone like kid_sinister could do a much better job at this, and there may be errors below. You pretty much nailed it. The difference between hot, neutral and ground is that hot is always energized, if the breakers are switched on anyway. Neutral is supposed to be energized only when that device is turned on. Ground is 99.9% for user safety and sometimes to prevent interference. Basically, the rule is that if an appliance has a metal enclosure, that enclosure must be grounded. For instance, let's say a short forms inside and ungrounded appliance and the frayed hot wire touches the casing. As soon as a user touches, it, they're going to get shocked. Now let's ground that metal casing. As soon as the frayed hot wire touches the casing, there will be a complete circuit from hot to ground. Since this circuit has nearly zero resistance, the amperage will be extremely high, high enough to trip the breaker, cutting the power before any user gets the chance to touch it and get shocked. Now ground and neutral and actually joined to each other at your main panel. So why don't we ground to neutral instead? That would certainly be a lot cheaper than running an extra wire to every box in your house. Well, remember that electricity follows the path of least resistance. If you touched an energized neutral, 99.9% of the time the electricity is going to flow down that nice, conductive neutral wire and not through your body. Well, there are certain circumstances when you can... beat the odds and your body becomes a lower path of resistance than the neutral wire back to the panel. That's why you need a dedicated neutral wire that's separate from any parts of appliances capable of carrying current that users could touch and a separate ground wire that never normally carries current. Also, that "returning power not matching outgoing power" testing only happens in GFCI and AFCI breakers. For older, plain breakers, their tripping is all about amperage. If more power than their rating travels through them, they trip. That includes shorts. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 23:21
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Thanks for the clarification, kid sinister! Especially the actual mechanism for non-GFC circuit breakers. It makes sense in retrospect. Now for my own question. I want to set up an electric blanket to automatically turn on an hour before I go to bed, so the bed will be warm. I could do this easily with a programmable outlet timer, but my electric blanket has a little onboard computer thingy (highly technical terminology here), and in particular has a push-button on/off switch, which defaults to off. So even if a timered outlet started feeding it power, it wouldn't do anything until you go and push the button. I assume the computer is required to provide automatic shutoff functionality after a certain amount of time has passed, which I don't really need since I'd have the outlet timer instead. Looking online, I'm only seeing similar "digital blankets" -- I think. It's a little hard to tell sometimes. Are physically switched blankets, that I could control with an external timer, still being sold? Failing that, any recommendations for other ways to get my bed warmed up automatically each night? Short of letting my dog in there, I mean. I love 'im but he sheds like crazy.
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Nov 8, 2016 06:01
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H110Hawk posted:Oh here is a thing I don't need but is stocking stuffer sized. Awesome.
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Nov 8, 2016 10:42
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i like nice words
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for the clarification, kid sinister! Especially the actual mechanism for non-GFC circuit breakers. It makes sense in retrospect. Is the control system on the cord, or is it part of the blanket? If it's on the cord and you don't mind the risk of burning down your house, you could probably cut the controls off and feed power directly. It would be hard to tell without looking at the blanket though. Edit: if it is possible to separate the controls from the blanket, and the blanket doesn't have an internal thermostat, you should add one, if you were to do this. Also, is the blanket a simple on/off or does it have other settings? Special A fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 14:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:... Now for my own question. I want to set up an electric blanket to automatically turn on an hour before I go to bed, so the bed will be warm. I could do this easily with a programmable outlet timer, but my electric blanket has a little onboard computer thingy (highly technical terminology here), and in particular has a push-button on/off switch, which defaults to off. So even if a timered outlet started feeding it power, it wouldn't do anything until you go and push the button. I assume the computer is required to provide automatic shutoff functionality after a certain amount of time has passed, which I don't really need since I'd have the outlet timer instead. Plus they tend to be made really lousy. Looking at the reviews on Amazon, there seems to be only two kinds made: really cheap $40 ones that come to bits easily, and expensive $150 ones that don't. Mostly.... I shopped for one some months ago, and ended up not buying any of them. What is uglier but might be easier to do: you could set up an IR heat lamp on a timer, and stand that next to your bed. You'd just need a basic floor lamp that could be aimed at the bed, and a timer that could handle the 250-watt or whatever lamp rating.
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Nov 8, 2016 14:36
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Special A posted:Is the control system on the cord, or is it part of the blanket? If it's on the cord and you don't mind the risk of burning down your house, you could probably cut the controls off and feed power directly. It would be hard to tell without looking at the blanket though.
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Nov 8, 2016 14:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for the clarification, kid sinister! Especially the actual mechanism for non-GFC circuit breakers. It makes sense in retrospect. you want a heated _mattress pad_ https://www.amazon.com/Serta-Electric-Mattress-Programmable-Controller/dp/B013EHI9NU/ that one even has a built in timer
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Nov 8, 2016 14:53
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Flipperwaldt posted:That is such a terrible suggestion, since for almost all electric blankets, the control pod contains the transformer turning 120-240V into 12V or whatever. Of course, but I can't tell how it is powered without seeing. If that's the case though, he could utilize the transformer from the controls and just bypass the "computer" part.
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Nov 8, 2016 15:21
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Qwijib0 posted:you want a heated _mattress pad_ Look at the image of the control unit for that thing. It has the same problem the blankets do, viz. you have to manually turn it on. I want it on automatically so if I stagger home late at night it at least won't be to a cold bed. Flipperwaldt posted:That is such a terrible suggestion, since for almost all electric blankets, the control pod contains the transformer turning 120-240V into 12V or whatever. I think what'd you do if you went down this route would be to bypass the on/off button rather than to power the blanket directly off of wall power. Still, I'm not confident enough in my soldering skills to try to tackle such a project. edmund745 posted:What is uglier but might be easier to do: you could set up an IR heat lamp on a timer, and stand that next to your bed. You'd just need a basic floor lamp that could be aimed at the bed, and a timer that could handle the 250-watt or whatever lamp rating. Yeah, that is kinda ugly. On the plus side, it would work! The basic concept of adapting some kind of heating element that isn't a blanket (or mattress pad) to use for bedwarming has potential. I have a little electric footwarmer thing, for example, that's basically just a metal panel with heating elements inside of it ([url=(something like this)]like this[/url]). That can be happily physically switched on/off; maybe I should just buy another one of those and throw it on my bed in the morning.
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Nov 8, 2016 15:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Look at the image of the control unit for that thing. It has the same problem the blankets do, viz. you have to manually turn it on. I want it on automatically so if I stagger home late at night it at least won't be to a cold bed. "Easy to use programmable digital controller has 10-heat settings and built in timer so you will always be at your own perfect sleep temperature"
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Nov 8, 2016 15:38
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If you aren't in a hurry, you could check out Goodwill or similar donation stores every few days and see if you can find an older electric blanket without computer control.
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Nov 8, 2016 15:41
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Motronic posted:"Easy to use programmable digital controller has 10-heat settings and built in timer so you will always be at your own perfect sleep temperature" My current blanket has a timer. You start it manually, then it shuts off automatically after the specified amount of time has passed. Maybe this one is different, but it doesn't look different. At bare minimum the functionality I'm looking for would require a builtin clock, not just a timer. hogmartin posted:If you aren't in a hurry, you could check out Goodwill or similar donation stores every few days and see if you can find an older electric blanket without computer control. Also good advice.
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Nov 8, 2016 16:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My current blanket has a timer. You start it manually, then it shuts off automatically after the specified amount of time has passed. Maybe this one is different, but it doesn't look different. At bare minimum the functionality I'm looking for would require a builtin clock, not just a timer. I think what you want is no longer UL approved because of all the people and houses which burned down back before we properly understood the dangers of electricity. A quick googling pulls up this peer reviewed journal article on the subject which I trust completely: http://www.electricblanketinstitute.com/electric-blanket-with-timer-for-on-and-off.html I would suggest either being slightly less or slightly more blackout drunk when you get home which should help with the situation. Motronic posted:"Easy to use programmable digital controller has 10-heat settings and built in timer so you will always be at your own perfect sleep temperature" That is an auto pre-heat timer, further in the description it says you have to push a button to start the program. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 17:29
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Surely someone makes a home-automation-enabled blankie so you can just kindly request Siri or Alexa get your bed all nice and cozy for you at the appropriate time. Also, as someone said, heated mattress pad > heated blanket. Warms the bed from the bottom up, works way better, and only takes like 5 minutes to warm up the bed because of that, so just turn it on when you go to brush your teeth. Or really just turn it on any time during the evening, since it'll stay warm for like 8 hours after you do so? Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 17:34
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H110Hawk posted:I think what you want is no longer UL approved because of all the people and houses which burned down back before we properly understood the dangers of electricity. A quick googling pulls up this peer reviewed journal article on the subject which I trust completely: Bah. What good are smart homes when you can't get the features you really need?  Thanks for digging that up though.quote:I would suggest either being slightly less or slightly more blackout drunk when you get home which should help with the situation. Look this kind of thing is hard to calibrate ok
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Nov 8, 2016 18:05
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First question: Is there a general lawn care thread I should actually be posting in? I didn't see one but I could've just missed it while scrolling too fast. Second question: I have a patch of ground by my fence that once had grass but is now plain dirt/mud. The fact that my dogs obsessively run up and down the fence line trying to catch a glimpse of the dog next door means the grass probably won't grow back any time soon without extensive work on my part. With winter coming up, is it a good or bad idea to lay down some plywood (or other more suitable material) to cover up the dirt patch for now so my dogs aren't tracking a ton of mud into the house? Will this actually help, or just make everything worse? I fully admit to being clueless about anything lawn care related beyond mowing and edging every other week so it doesn't look terrible. Also, it's a rental property, so I'm not really inclined to put in a ton of work fixing a yard I probably won't be using in another year or two. Any thoughts or redirects are appreciated. Thanks.
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Nov 8, 2016 18:56
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DaChurl posted:First question: Is there a general lawn care thread I should actually be posting in? I didn't see one but I could've just missed it while scrolling too fast. You know, I swear we had one here in DIY ages ago... Plywood would work, until they track mud from elsewhere on top of it. I wouldn't use one. You're going to smother and shade out the still living grass around it. Where do you live? You might still be able to get some grass seed started this year. If not, I would put down some mulch there for now. You can get a bag for under $3, it will help prevent erosion right there and you can fill any shape with it. Even if you forget about it for years, it will all rot away and make the dirt there better. As for grass, how sunny is it right there? They do make high traffic mixes like this. I've used it before to fill in pet paths and had good results. It works best if you can keep the doggies out while the seeds get started. Maybe buy a roll of chicken wire and some bamboo stakes to hold it up? Also, how sloped is this area? You want grass seed to grow where you throw it down. Don't hose it down at full blast, just mist it. If it's sloped enough for rain to potentially wash it away, throw down some hay or even some grass clippings. Ask a neighbor for some if necessary.
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Nov 8, 2016 19:37
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Tear up the grass there, put down some landscaping cloth, put down some coarse (like 1.5") gravel as a foundation, put down some pea gravel as a top layer. Grass will not survive a pacing dog.
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Nov 8, 2016 19:44
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Bad Munki posted:Also, as someone said, heated mattress pad > heated blanket. Warms the bed from the bottom up, works way better, and only takes like 5 minutes to warm up the bed because of that, so just turn it on when you go to brush your teeth. Or really just turn it on any time during the evening, since it'll stay warm for like 8 hours after you do so? Bad Munki posted:Tear up the grass there, put down some landscaping cloth, put down some coarse (like 1.5") gravel as a foundation, put down some pea gravel as a top layer. Grass will not survive a pacing dog. Munki just FULL of good advice today. Only thing about heated mattress pads is that you aren't supposed to use them on memory foam beds.
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Nov 8, 2016 19:47
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Squashy Nipples posted:Only thing about heated mattress pads is that you aren't supposed to use them on memory foam beds. Well then I'm a scofflaw with no regrets.
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Nov 8, 2016 19:47
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kid sinister posted:If it was built in 1999, probably nothing. It should have modern insulation, frost free sillcocks, etc. Does it? Guess I'm not sure the question. I'm not sure how to know if the sillcocks are the kind you're referring to. But if they are, does that mean I don't need to worry about them? I have access to them all via the crawl space, so I can replace them if it saves me the hassle of winterizing every year. They're pretty cheap plastic, so it's probably not a bad idea to replace them anyway. The problem I see is that the crawl space is uninsulated. So I'm not just worried about the sillcocks, I'm worried about all the plumbing that runs through the crawl space. Also now I have an electrical question: The previous owners had their cable coax jack in the living room in a funny place. I want to move it, and there's a phone plug where the TV is, so I figured that I'd be able to just fish the coax through there and replace the plate with a dual phone/coax connection. So I got some fish tape, and failed to poke through. Thought I got through a few times but never found my tape on the other side. The next thing I tried to do was to tape the coax to the phone line, then I was going to use the phone line to pull the coax down to the crawl space, then pull a pile of coax through so I could use that to pull the phone line back up. No dice...the phone line didn't budge. I thought it was snagged or took some weird route through the wall, and then it dawned on me that the phone line is most likely being held by that canned expanding foam insulation stuff. So how do I do this? Is it possible to use like a metal coat hook to bust up the foam until I can pull through? Or am I looking at drilling a new hole? If I drill a new hole, what's the best method? Google says I'll need a 4' long flexible drill bit to drill down from above (and a little bit of luck to avoid hitting a nail). Is this the best method? And how do I use this flexible drill bit? I've found a few things on google and it looks pretty straight forward. Is there a trick to it? I'm just going 2ft down through the floor to the crawl space, it's not like I'm trying to drill a straight hole through 3 studs or anything fancy. And then as far as putting in a new outlet box, looks like the "old work" boxes just clamp against the drywall, is that right? Is this the best way without tearing up drywall?
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Nov 8, 2016 20:02
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Bad Munki posted:Well then I'm a scofflaw with no regrets.
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Nov 8, 2016 20:41
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How do i remove this snap ring (orange) without loving up the housing its in any more than it already is? The previous owner(s?) of this tiller never did any maintenance and just kept running it after the seal to this end of the shaft failed. The bearing is, quite obviously, smoked, and the snap ring might as well be part of the housing. I've been heating/smacking/PB Blasting for a while now and i still can't even begin to budge it. How do i go about getting this fucker out of there?
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Nov 8, 2016 20:54
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The thing I'd try first is finding a punch that will catch the edge of the snap ring hole and tap it toward the shaft. Seems like it's way more stuck than that though. If you have air, try an air hammer against one of the ends of the snap ring parallel to the groove. Try to get it rotating, then it would come out with snap ring pliers. Failing that, you could cut the snap ring with a die grinder and mess up the housing a bit. It doesn't need the whole 360 degrees of the housing lip intact to retain the snap ring, really.
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Nov 8, 2016 21:00
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I got an old whiskey barrel and want to turn it into an outdoor counter height table. Any suggestions for a table top? I was thinking copper sheet metal over plywood would look good and would hold up well.
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Nov 8, 2016 21:45
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kid sinister posted:You know, I swear we had one here in DIY ages ago... I'm in the south, so it hasn't dropped below freezing yet, but keeping them off the area long enough for seeds to get started will be a really big challenge. The door to our backyard opens up right next to the part of fence line in question, and you have to walk down a narrow space between houses to get to what I think of as the actual back yard. So as soon as I open the door the dogs are right at the fence, running and sniffing and trying to see if the other dog is there. The smaller one is very determined to get close to the dog and chicken wire would not stand a chance. He could probably jump over it. I'm so lucky digging hasn't occurred to him yet. The mulch is a good idea, though. The dirt patch is an irregular wedge shape so the ply wood would've had to overlap some grass to get full coverage. Bad Munki posted:Tear up the grass there, put down some landscaping cloth, put down some coarse (like 1.5") gravel as a foundation, put down some pea gravel as a top layer. Grass will not survive a pacing dog. This is really helpful, thanks! I had no idea how to put gravel in properly, but I was pretty sure there was more to it than just dumping a bunch of rocks on the ground. EDIT: If we wind up going with mulch for cost reasons, should we also lay down landscaping cloth? Or does that defeat the purpose of mulch? DaChurl fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Nov 8, 2016 |
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Nov 8, 2016 22:16
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DaveSauce posted:Guess I'm not sure the question. I'm not sure how to know if the sillcocks are the kind you're referring to. But if they are, does that mean I don't need to worry about them? I have access to them all via the crawl space, so I can replace them if it saves me the hassle of winterizing every year. They're pretty cheap plastic, so it's probably not a bad idea to replace them anyway. Yep, they are pretty much worry proof. You know how with old fashioned sillcocks that to winterize them, you had to shut off the valve inside the house, then open up the sillcock outside to drain it? Frost free sillcocks prevent that step of annual maintenance by putting the actual valve at least 8 inches back into the house. Of course, idiots will still leave their hoses hooked up to them in the winter and leave their hoses coiled up higher than it so that the water still inside the sillcock can't drain out... I bet you can guess what happens then. The easiest way to identify a frost free sillcock is if the handle is entirely parallel with the wall, not mounted at an angle. It takes a long, straight valve stem to turn that valve that far back in your house. You're overthinking this. That phone line is probably stapled to the stud by the box. If you know where the phone line comes up, you can probably drill up from the crawlspace with a regular bit and not even need a flexible bit. Yes, a low voltage old work ring would be perfect for your new faceplate. What kind of existing box was that phone jack in?
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Nov 8, 2016 22:17
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I own a 2 story house and am looking to buy a ladder to use around the house. I am not sure what kind is the best but drat there are a ton of different kinds and they all seem really expensive. What kind of ladder should I buy? I am looking to get one off Amazon, what should I be getting? I am looking for something light, and that can be used by 1 person and very safe. I don't want to fall down like that guy on the tv infomercial.
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Nov 8, 2016 22:41
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