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Springfield Fatts posted:Is there a chemical that lets you use GW washes in a manner similar to oil washing, or failing that something that will thin any wash that has pooled too heavily? A clean brush? Just slurp up the excess.
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Nov 14, 2016 01:00
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| # ? May 16, 2024 21:18 |
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Got my little Skink Buddy painted up for Silver Tower.  
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Nov 14, 2016 01:11
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 Two squad's of Grenadiers done. Modelled two of them with scopes to stand in as snipers with spotters should I need. I could set up my light box but im only going for table quality. So eh.
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Nov 14, 2016 02:06
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Yeast posted:Got my little Skink Buddy painted up for Silver Tower. Very cool and good.
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Nov 14, 2016 02:31
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Avenging Dentist posted:A clean brush? Just slurp up the excess. As in its already dried.
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Nov 14, 2016 02:51
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Yeast posted:Got my little Skink Buddy painted up for Silver Tower.
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Nov 14, 2016 03:01
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Springfield Fatts posted:Is there a chemical that lets you use GW washes in a manner similar to oil washing, or failing that something that will thin any wash that has pooled too heavily?
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Nov 14, 2016 06:54
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Kommando posted:Two squad's of Grenadiers done. There's a new toy store in the (Brisbane) city mall that sells warlord stuff. The shop guy doesn't really know anything about wargaming but I was very happy to pick up a tiger tank for $30. He said he's happy to take orders with delivery in under a week. I plan to return for a comfort Stug and then order some grenadiers.
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Nov 14, 2016 17:04
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Been working on a shuttle. First image just for reference. Trying to figure out how to create a border to the rest of the shuttle. Or, if I just need to add accents to the wings/cockpit. I don't really want to paint the whole thing this way. Chill la Chill fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Mar 28, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2016 20:28
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Ilor posted:Future Floor Wax. It cuts the surface tension and helps the wash pool/dry correctly (i.e. without tide lines). It also provides some more durability (it's actually an acrylic hardener than wax, and is what most people use for a semigloss seal)
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Nov 14, 2016 20:36
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Chill la Chill posted:
Holy crap. That is some killer freehand, dude.
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Nov 14, 2016 20:41
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Thanks, but the writing is a decal. I could probably do it but don't have the patience for that much meticulous detail. I will probably just continue to do more sections as inspiration comes back.
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Nov 14, 2016 20:58
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Ilor posted:Future Floor Wax. It cuts the surface tension and helps the wash pool/dry correctly (i.e. without tide lines). The current name they sell it under is Pledge Floor Care Multi Surface Finish
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Nov 14, 2016 21:08
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Springfield Fatts posted:As in its already dried. Then you'll have to paint over it. You can thin your paint so it's translucent and try to clean it up so that you're not starting 100% from scratch though.
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Nov 14, 2016 21:17
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NTRabbit posted:The current name they sell it under is Pledge Floor Care Multi Surface Finish Thank you for clarifying this. I stood there staring at this bottle forever trying to decide if I should take the risk.
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Nov 14, 2016 21:24
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xutech posted:There's a new toy store in the (Brisbane) city mall that sells warlord stuff. The shop guy doesn't really know anything about wargaming but I was very happy to pick up a tiger tank for $30. He said he's happy to take orders with delivery in under a week. I plan to return for a comfort Stug and then order some grenadiers. It's a fun game, and the miniatures are unique enough that painting them doesn't feel like a chore even when you have 30 and they're all wearing the same uniform. I just finished some Luftwaffe (and a Schwimmwagen) last night:  Will try to get a better shot of them this weekend with a real camera. 
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Nov 14, 2016 21:51
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Cat Face Joe posted:Thank you for clarifying this. I stood there staring at this bottle forever trying to decide if I should take the risk. Lost no more! I have the 2013 label bottle and it is definitely gloss sealer. NTRabbit fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Nov 14, 2016 |
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Nov 14, 2016 21:53
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That should tell you how old my bottle is. Seriously, you use it like a drop at a time. It will last you years.
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Nov 14, 2016 22:19
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Last year, i replaced my 12 year old bottle of Future Floor Finish. It served me well. Edit: vvvvvv premixed and ready to go for 10 dollars a QUART. It is a good deal for miniature painters already. Editedit: 27oz is not quite a quart. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Nov 14, 2016 |
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Nov 14, 2016 22:29
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As far as I'm aware, Future is just acrylic gloss varnish + a surfactant, so you can also just grab those two components and mix them as needed.
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Nov 14, 2016 22:56
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I airbrushed my first three cruisers tonight and i'm really thrilled with how they turned out. There's a little lift on the front one but that will be easy to correct during highlighting. I even managed to take pictures during all steps  Should i do write-ups part by part or wait until they're finished and then do a big one?
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Nov 15, 2016 21:04
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Bistromatic posted:I airbrushed my first three cruisers tonight and i'm really thrilled with how they turned out. There's a little lift on the front one but that will be easy to correct during highlighting. Thanks. Either, a 2 parter or a big one is fine by me.
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Nov 15, 2016 21:09
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xutech posted:There's a new toy store in the (Brisbane) city mall that sells warlord stuff. The shop guy doesn't really know anything about wargaming but I was very happy to pick up a tiger tank for $30. He said he's happy to take orders with delivery in under a week. I plan to return for a comfort Stug and then order some grenadiers. StuG is good. See if you can get a StuG IV. Theres only 2 stores here in CBR that has BA, way north or way south. My usual crew plays in the north and says the owner of the south is a pedantic jerk who argues with the BA devs on Facebook all the time. But he has more stock.
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Nov 17, 2016 02:03
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I forgot to oath this. Oh well. The latest little thing I've been painting. It's a pulp-ish pistol dude (Reaper Black Mist) as a test character for a game I'm designing. I think I'm going to paint on a little mask. Also, he needs touch-ups, (as usual) 
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Nov 17, 2016 07:19
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I'm trying to figure out how to do an Alpha Legion color scheme and having a motherfucker of a time trying to figure out how to get anything close to a teal irridescent effect without an airbrush. Should I just give up and go for blue with green highlights which I've seen a lot?
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Nov 17, 2016 09:17
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mango sentinel posted:I'm trying to figure out how to do an Alpha Legion color scheme and having a motherfucker of a time trying to figure out how to get anything close to a teal irridescent effect without an airbrush. Should I just give up and go for blue with green highlights which I've seen a lot? Someone posted an article a few days ago either here or the 40k thread with a few different techniques for exactly that. I can't find it atm but I recall one of them was just a silver basecoat followed by a series of green and blue glazes and washes, looked pretty good. *edit* 
GuardianOfAsgaard fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Nov 17, 2016 |
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Nov 17, 2016 12:35
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Yeah, you can get a pretty decent result since if you apply metallic paints well (i.e focusing on the flakes more than the carrier paint) you'll rarely see brush strokes, and theres a lot of paints that work well for glazes (I'm still partial to Tamiya's clear paints, even if they demand special thinning) You'll never get as great a metallic/pearl effect as airbrushing just due to the nature of hand and air brushing, but it can still look nice and impressive.
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Nov 17, 2016 20:20
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Painted up 10 more State Troops for my Empire, this time with swords n boards:      
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Nov 18, 2016 00:04
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Those are gorgeous. I think I like your fantasy minis even more than your 40k minis.
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Nov 18, 2016 00:13
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Yeah, I wish I could paint that cleanly; I 'm working on a Reaper orc and even with some pretty distinct contrast colors I still find myself making easily avoidable mistakes and messes. Speaking of, I rarely have issue with bonesium, but I can confidently say after thoroughly scrubbing, soaking, and wiping down this dude and giving him a pretty thick priming, that loving nothing you put on bonesium spikes will avoid getting rubbed off at so much as a glance.
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Nov 18, 2016 00:17
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Someone posted an article a few days ago either here or the 40k thread with a few different techniques for exactly that. I can't find it atm but I recall one of them was just a silver basecoat followed by a series of green and blue glazes and washes, looked pretty good. Thanks! I've been looking at airbrush auto-air candy paint but I'm not sure how well any of that brushes and how to mix it for that purpose. In that madness I forgot to check if GW makes glazes. 😛
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Nov 18, 2016 01:41
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Just so everyone knows, HobbyZone (who makes awesome modular hobby storage units) now has a US distributor.
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Nov 19, 2016 20:28
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For UK scratch builders and modellers, where do you get plasticard from? I could only find expensive and thick small sheets at Hobbycraft.
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Nov 20, 2016 13:02
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Try http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/
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Nov 20, 2016 14:06
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I finished my Luftwaffe field division. I'm pretty happy with how they turned out, but I also understand it's a mediocre effort and that I still have a lot to learn. Also mediocre is my ability to use a camera. Going to have to figure out white balance.
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Nov 20, 2016 17:12
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Ta Also, loving lol at how dear this stuff is in Hobbycraft by comparison.
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Nov 20, 2016 18:04
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I'm just getting back into painting after years off. I'm having trouble with GW paints when using a size 0 or 00 brush. After a minute or so I get a dried fleck of paint on the tip of the brush, I then have to clean it off and load it up again. I'm thinning my paints with water, using a palette etc... but don't remember having this problem ~15 years back. Any tips for preventing this?
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Nov 20, 2016 20:36
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Inazuma posted:I'm just getting back into painting after years off. I'm having trouble with GW paints when using a size 0 or 00 brush. After a minute or so I get a dried fleck of paint on the tip of the brush, I then have to clean it off and load it up again. I'm thinning my paints with water, using a palette etc... but don't remember having this problem ~15 years back. Any tips for preventing this? Is it multiple different paints doing this? The only time I've seen this happen is after it dries on a tile for like 10 minutes.
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Nov 20, 2016 20:51
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mango sentinel posted:Is it multiple different paints doing this? The only time I've seen this happen is after it dries on a tile for like 10 minutes. Come to think of it, I've only seen it with a pot of evil sunz scarlet red. Could be a dodgy pot I guess. I'll give it a good mix, see if it's still happening, if it is I'll grab another pot ans see if that helps.
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Nov 20, 2016 20:56
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I finished my second gargantuan for my Trollbloods- the Glacier King. A friend suggested I add snow to the whelp on the base, to make him more like a mini GK. I wound up breaking out some old plasticard hex rod and stuff I had sitting around, and made some basic ice crystals too. I'm kind of in love with it. (Whelps are the result of troll beasts losing a limb or other part, than then regenerates into its own mini-troll.)       (I really like drinky whelp riding on top, too.)   
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Nov 20, 2016 21:00
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