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Xequecal posted:They found the lady that hit me. She has no insurance, (obviously) and I have a $500 deductible on uninsured motorist coverage so I'm stuck paying for the $350 headlight myself. In California, hit & run is a crime, even if nobody is injured. Are the cops charging her?
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Nov 14, 2016 02:11
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Leperflesh posted:In California, hit & run is a crime, even if nobody is injured. Are the cops charging her? It's Michigan, her being uninsured is going to hit her for a lot more than the hit & run, for this little damage it's like a $100 ticket.
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Nov 14, 2016 17:18
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Xequecal posted:It's Michigan, her being uninsured is going to hit her for a lot more than the hit & run, for this little damage it's like a $100 ticket. So is she actually getting charged...? Would you have to go to court?
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Nov 14, 2016 17:29
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Michael Scott posted:So is she actually getting charged...? Would you have to go to court? I'm not sure, I heard this from my insurance claims' agent. I mean, I looked up the penalties for uninsured driving and it's a $1,000 fine, 30 day suspension and up to 1 year in jail, but I have no idea if it's actually common for anyone to get jail. I'm guessing not, but who knows?
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Nov 14, 2016 18:10
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Xequecal posted:They found the lady that hit me. She has no insurance, (obviously) and I have a $500 deductible on uninsured motorist coverage so I'm stuck paying for the $350 headlight myself. I am not a lawyer. but you can go after her in small claims, but again.. good luck getting that money, if she can't afford car insurance she probably can't afford the 350
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Nov 14, 2016 18:25
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I recently got a junkyard Nissan KA24E engine, to swap into my 1990 Nissan D21 King Cab. Engine is a 1993 with 173000km on it, but it's been sitting unused for a few years. Junkyard has a reasonable return policy, I just wanted to give it a compression test (and verify it moves freely) before deciding to keep it. Tested it this weekend, and got these numbers (in kg/cm2 or bars): 10.5 13.0 11.0 10.5 This was after turning the engine 4-5 turns on the starter with throttle open, no plugs in any cylinder, and no exhaust past the manifold. Had sprayed some WD40 in each cylinder and turned the engine around a few turns a couple hours earlier. Redid a couple of them (including #2) to double check, got same values. I also tried with some engine oil squirted into the cylinders just for science, which made at most a 0.5 positive difference. No cylinders show too low compression so rings and valve seats seem fine, but #2 is oddly high. What could cause that? Googling it suggests either lots of carbon buildup or incorrect valve lash adjustment. The former just sounds strangely implausible, the latter I don't really get how it works. Engine has SOHC and rocker arms with screw-adjusters pushing directly on the valve stems. Which explanation, if any, should I believe in? Or is this just "within normal variance"? As long as this is something I can deal with without having to rebuild the whole drat engine (which I'd rather not), it seems to be a keeper.
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Nov 14, 2016 19:40
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I feel like this is the right thread. My girlfriend managed to break the interior hood release lever in her 98 beetle. I see the metal wire that gets pulled to release the hood so is it an easy fix to get a new lever? I'm not very experienced with cars but I'm capable of following simple directions so is this a cheap/easy fix?
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Nov 14, 2016 19:54
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Yes, it's pretty easy to fix. The handle assembly has two parts, though, so it's very possible the actual broken part is the one behind the handle itself. New (aftermarket) kits of the two are like  . You need to remove the A-pillar/footwell trim piece to get at it all, IIRC.
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Nov 14, 2016 20:10
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That's good news. Where's a good place to order parts from? The last few things her cars needed I got at pull a part but they haven't had any beetles in awhile.
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Nov 14, 2016 20:26
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Len posted:That's good news. Where's a good place to order parts from? The last few things her cars needed I got at pull a part but they haven't had any beetles in awhile. How about https://www.rockauto.com Haven't checked to see if they have that specific part.
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Nov 14, 2016 20:28
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^ They do not.
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Nov 14, 2016 20:29
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Sounds like the kind of part you will only be able to get from a dealership or JY.
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Nov 14, 2016 21:06
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Nothing from Dorman, either.
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Nov 14, 2016 21:09
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Ebay is always good for stuff like that if you're ok waiting for it to turn up from China. But check the price from VW, it may not actually be that expensive, it'll be a common part on a load of the family cars (Golf etc).
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Nov 14, 2016 22:42
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ionn posted:10.5 No, generally with compression test you want to see no more than +/- 10% across all of the cylinders (#2 is almost +25% from the lowest.) Could be carbon buildup, most plausible explanation is the engine had a bad coil (or possibly plug) on the #2 cylinder resulting in incomplete burns which may have been exacerbated by a driver who never really got the engine up into its powerband. Quick google search seems to indicate that engine uses hydraulic lifters so valve lash shouldn't be a problem. Only other possibilities I can think of is someone hamfistedly installed an out of spec piston in that cylinder that has raised compression, or else three out of the four other cylinders have bent connecting rods and the pistons aren't reaching TDC - lowering compression.
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Nov 14, 2016 22:47
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Friend has an 01 Accord EX V6. Shop recommended a timing belt/WP, interval is 7y/105k and the car's at 140k, no idea if PO did it before. I said "yeah do that ASAP", any other no-brainers while they're in there?
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Nov 14, 2016 23:03
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Front crank seal while you're most of the way apart for the job?
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Nov 14, 2016 23:05
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My 2015 Ford Fiesta seems to have a coolant reservoir that likes to sit below the min mark. It's been filled up twice to MAX, and after a few drives it is maybe an inch below the MIN mark on the overflow reservoir and stays there indefinitely. Temperature gauge is always healthy and constant at 50% after warming up. Anything to worry about? I called the dealer, and though it is under a powertrain-only warranty at this point, they will not perform an inspection for free, it would be $130.
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Nov 15, 2016 00:43
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It's going somewhere. Check for a puddle, check for a wet area under the dashboard, get someone to watch your exhaust when you start and drive it (looking for a whitish cloud). Coolant system isn't covered by a powertrain warranty, as I recently learned on my Jeep.
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Nov 15, 2016 01:25
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Godholio posted:It's going somewhere. Check for a puddle, check for a wet area under the dashboard, get someone to watch your exhaust when you start and drive it (looking for a whitish cloud). I think I've checked all three of those things and I've come up empty on a cause. It always settles around exactly the same place in the reservoir tank, it won't drop below there.
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Nov 15, 2016 02:49
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My wife's 2002 Ford Escape V6 has almost 200K on what I can assume are the original CV axles, and the drivers side is now making noise and vibration. The boot is torn near the hub so my presumption is a bad CV axle. Shakes the steering wheel when going straight, worsens when I make a right turn, gets smoother and no noise when I make a left turn. Am I on the right track for the diagnosis? I've watched a couple of videos on the process and it seems that the control arm doesn't need to be dropped and i can leave most of the poo poo intact aside from taking off the hub nut which is something I need to buy a impact socket for. Hoping to get it done in a few hours time this coming Friday. For what it's worth, I am pretty capable when it comes to a wrench and saving money.
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Nov 15, 2016 03:59
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Enourmo posted:Friend has an 01 Accord EX V6. Shop recommended a timing belt/WP, interval is 7y/105k and the car's at 140k, no idea if PO did it before. Water pump and valve adjustment are the only things that are close to necessary at that mileage if you don't know what has been done and there's no obvious problems
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Nov 15, 2016 04:00
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Jebediah posted:My wife's 2002 Ford Escape V6 has almost 200K on what I can assume are the original CV axles, and the drivers side is now making noise and vibration. The boot is torn near the hub so my presumption is a bad CV axle. Shakes the steering wheel when going straight, worsens when I make a right turn, gets smoother and no noise when I make a left turn. Am I on the right track for the diagnosis? I've watched a couple of videos on the process and it seems that the control arm doesn't need to be dropped and i can leave most of the poo poo intact aside from taking off the hub nut which is something I need to buy a impact socket for. Hoping to get it done in a few hours time this coming Friday. For what it's worth, I am pretty capable when it comes to a wrench and saving money. Its a very easy job on the escape. but the way the noise changes when you switch directions makes me also think wheel bearing. Had to do the same thing to my wifes escape. The wheel bearings are cheap but you need a press to change them. Most shops will charge a case of beer if you just bring them the hubs and bearings. And your already in there to do the axle and will have to retorque the axle nut. Edit: also because you have the axle out the alternator will die in the next week or two. Because escapes love to eat alternators and pulling the axle is the way you remove them. 
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Nov 15, 2016 05:41
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Geoj posted:No, generally with compression test you want to see no more than +/- 10% across all of the cylinders (#2 is almost +25% from the lowest.) Could be carbon buildup, most plausible explanation is the engine had a bad coil (or possibly plug) on the #2 cylinder resulting in incomplete burns which may have been exacerbated by a driver who never really got the engine up into its powerband. Quick google search seems to indicate that engine uses hydraulic lifters so valve lash shouldn't be a problem. Only other possibilities I can think of is someone hamfistedly installed an out of spec piston in that cylinder that has raised compression, or else three out of the four other cylinders have bent connecting rods and the pistons aren't reaching TDC - lowering compression. You probably looked at the KA24DE, which has hydraulic lifters. The KA24E is SOHC, and has rocker arms with mechanical adjusters that push directly on the valve stems. I'm still not sure how incorrect valve lift can get too high compression, but I'll give it a look. I looked at the spark plugs when I took them out, a couple of them were a bit dirty (they all were rather old, not sure how old) but I don't think the #2 one was the worst of them. I numbered them, have to go back and check. My brother has an endoscope somewhere too, not sure if carbon buildup can be spotted with that (I expect all cylinders to mostly just look black). What's the best way to deal with carbon buildup? Carb cleaner? Get engine nice running nice and warm and spray water down the intake? If at all possible I don't want to have to take the head off, but if it has to be done now's the time. The thing that bothers me the most about that are the 23 year old exhaust manifold studs, but maybe I can take the head off with the manifold left on. I highly doubt anyone would replace one piston in an engine/vehicle like this. Theoretically possible, but sounds very unlikely.
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Nov 15, 2016 08:14
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Carbon buildup on one cylinder? Shoddy spark or wires or intake geometry.
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Nov 15, 2016 08:19
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2000/V Reg Peugeot 406 Estate with a DW10 (2 ltr Diesel) Its throwing a P0100 code on my scanner which i think is a MAF sensor, and the car is in limp mode (won't rev above 2800) Unplugged the MAF and it made no difference to the idle, or the revving. Can't reset the code until my Lexia-3 turns up in the post Pretty sure, but is this a dead MAF?
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Nov 15, 2016 13:04
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Enourmo posted:There's always the nuclear option: Now that’s rolling coal.
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Nov 15, 2016 13:11
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ionn posted:I highly doubt anyone would replace one piston in an engine/vehicle like this. Theoretically possible, but sounds very unlikely. Yeah, should have added "possible scenarios listed in increasingly long odds of having actually happened."
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Nov 15, 2016 15:33
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Any tips on how to check break pad usage without taking off a wheel off the car? I have a 2007 Scion TC. The front pads you can the usage/wear but the rear pads are really harder to see as they seem to be smaller then the front and the calliper basically covers it. lol internet. fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Nov 16, 2016 |
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Nov 16, 2016 06:54
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lol internet. posted:Any tips on how to check break pad usage without taking off a wheel off the car? The tip is to take the wheel off, you can't see the actual wear on any pads, front or rear, with the wheel on (unless you have a donk or something). The outside pad usually wears differently to the inner and they wear different side to side as well.
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Nov 16, 2016 07:46
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Slavvy posted:The tip is to take the wheel off, you can't see the actual wear on any pads, front or rear, with the wheel on (unless you have a donk or something). The outside pad usually wears differently to the inner and they wear different side to side as well. I live in an apartment complex otherwise I would. The front you can see the thickness of the whole pad so you can have an idea at least.
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Nov 16, 2016 07:48
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Speaking of Scions, are there regular manuals for them? All I can find is weird PDFs and I want to look at a physical Haynes manual or something E: xA or 1st gen xD specifically The Door Frame fucked around with this message at 08:16 on Nov 16, 2016 |
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Nov 16, 2016 08:13
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You can tell there's a pad there sure. But I've seen ordinary, well-kept run-of-the-mill cars exactly like yours where the inner pad might be like a quarter of the meat of the outer pad for no reason whatsoever.
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Nov 16, 2016 08:17
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I'm having an issue with my remote starter. Namely, it won't start the car. It's a Pursuit Series Model PRO-9276N. It's not the batteries, as the door lock buttons still work. It also stopped working on both sets of keys at the same time, so it has to be at the car. I've read up as much as I can, and some culprits seem to be the valet button being depressed somehow, but I can't find anything like that in my car. One caveat: I have a two year old that loves to press the buttons on keys when she gets them. Is it possible she hit the perfect sequence of keys to set the valet, and I can't un-gently caress it? The car if it matters: 2010 Toyota Rav4.
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Nov 16, 2016 16:58
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Godholio posted:It's probably a heat shield that's worked its way loose and is rattling. Possibly the most irritating thing that can happen to a car. Bingo, it was an exhaust heat shield that had broken a weld. The mechanic sawed it off, since I guess the shield was attached to the cat, or something that would mean they had to replace the whole cat. They found other work to do, though. When is the distinction between a coolant flush and a coolant replacement important? This car has about 40k miles on it, but it's from 1999-2001. I don't know if it has been replaced before, I would have to get the records from my father-in-law.
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Nov 16, 2016 20:22
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Coolant is one of those things that doesn't age gracefully, regardless of miles. Replace it, even if it's been done in the past 2 or 3 years. It turns acidic as it ages; some formulations much worse than others, but even the most benign coolant will begin to rust critical parts (such as your water pump). If you're really lucky, it's a GM V6 with DexCool, and the DexCool has attacked the lower intake manifold gaskets! If it's not Dexcool, a simple drain and fill will probably be fine. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Nov 17, 2016 |
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Nov 17, 2016 04:12
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I have an extra car to sell, it does have some problems but they are all fixable. My stupid question is how much work should i put in before I sell? 2003 Pt Cruiser Woody(kill me) with 125,000 miles. BlueBook has its' value at $1400-1800 at my zip-code. Note: I am an employee at an Auto Parts store, so I have a hefty discount for parts. Engine Issue is leaking oil. Had a mechanic track it down to either 1) Oil Pump 2) Engine Case 3) Valve Cover Gasket 4) Head Gasket I'm going to cover all of the electronics, use Degreaser and wash the engine and find the leak for myself. The non-scrap worst case, and most likely, scenario is the Head Gasket: Head Gasket Set is ~115$ While I'm at it I am going to make sure Cylinder Head isn't warped. I know a guy that does it, at the least it'll be a cleaning. Machining could cost up to 350$ or so. I havent gotten a quote from the guy yet. Needs R134a and some cleaning/detailing. I can do that myself. The county I live in a car is *REQUIRED* for doing anything. You'd go homeless first. I've set a personal limit on repairs at $600. My current logic is that its worth fixing up and selling because I could get a little extra value, but I make sure what I'm selling isn't garbage. I'm also considering selling the car to international students on the local college board. DaK3 fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Nov 17, 2016 |
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Nov 17, 2016 05:41
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You're on the right track with the degreaser, but the valve cover gasket is your most likely leak. Unless it's been overheated, the head gasket should be fine, and it's extremely rare for a head gasket to leak oil externally (not counting Subarus). But be honest.. it's a 13+ year old PT Cruiser. They're a pain in the dick to work on, and reliability was questionable when brand new. You won't stop the leaks, you'll at best reduce them. Fix the worst issues and unload it.
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Nov 17, 2016 06:04
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DaK3 posted:I have an extra car to sell, it does have some problems but they are all fixable. My stupid question is how much work should i put in before I sell? I'm guessing it must be leaking a substantial amount of oil if you're trying to fix it. Right? Anyone willing to buy an old PT Cruiser would likely not give a hoot of it's leaking oil. I doubt you'll see much of a return on your work, but you know your current market and situation better than I do.
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Nov 17, 2016 17:25
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Coolant is one of those things that doesn't age gracefully, regardless of miles. Replace it, even if it's been done in the past 2 or 3 years. It turns acidic as it ages; some formulations much worse than others, but even the most benign coolant will begin to rust critical parts (such as your water pump). If you're really lucky, it's a GM V6 with DexCool, and the DexCool has attacked the lower intake manifold gaskets! It's a ZX2, so thankfully not one of those. I'll do it this weekend, then. Do I need to use distilled water, or is hose water fine? I guess this time of the year it would probably be jug water. I've heard people talk about running water through until it's clear. How would you do that without contaminating the groundwater?
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Nov 17, 2016 20:06
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