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What type of plants are you interested in growing? This poll is closed. |
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| Perennials! |
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142 | 20.91% |
| Annuals! |
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30 | 4.42% |
| Woody plants! |
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62 | 9.13% |
| Succulent plants! |
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171 | 25.18% |
| Tropical plants! |
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60 | 8.84% |
| Non-vascular plants are the best! |
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31 | 4.57% |
| Screw you, I'd rather eat them! |
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183 | 26.95% |
| Total: | 679 votes | ||
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What's a good website for checking out different succulents?
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Oct 4, 2016 03:45
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:38 |
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anatomi posted:What is this and how do I take care of it? Lady in the store said to keep the pot in water and make sure the plant's in a humid environment. Currently keeping it in a cloche in the window. It's a Drosera capensis, you should keep it sitting in water, but make sure it's low-mineral water. For most people that means using either distilled or tap water, unless you know the TDS of your tap water. It doesn't actually need much humidity at all, but what it does need is as much light as you can get it. Don't bother with the cloche, though when you remove the cloche it might shock a little bit and then recover. Brightest window possible and it should do okay. If you really want it to look awesome though, consider getting a desk lamp, and high-wattage CFL, and a timer and running it on a 14-hour light cycle.
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Oct 6, 2016 06:43
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I live in Seattle and want to liven up my townhouse with some plants. I also plan on adopting a dog shortly (I know some plants are not dog-safe) What plants should I be looking for? They won't exactly get lots of sunlight outside of late spring and summer. We have a large living room window/nook facing the east, and a rooftop patio on the west side of the house (I'd like to grow plants up there as well) Any recommendations would be appreciated.
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Oct 14, 2016 22:13
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Elderbean posted:I live in Seattle and want to liven up my townhouse with some plants. I also plan on adopting a dog shortly (I know some plants are not dog-safe) What plants should I be looking for? They won't exactly get lots of sunlight outside of late spring and summer. We have a large living room window/nook facing the east, and a rooftop patio on the west side of the house (I'd like to grow plants up there as well) Any recommendations would be appreciated. Ficus is the standard indoor + low light recommendation. I've also found Christmas Cactus to be a pretty resilient indoor plant. I prefer the ones that are a little sparser, less bushy than you might see on some.
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Oct 14, 2016 22:27
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Elderbean posted:I live in Seattle and want to liven up my townhouse with some plants. I also plan on adopting a dog shortly (I know some plants are not dog-safe) What plants should I be looking for? They won't exactly get lots of sunlight outside of late spring and summer. We have a large living room window/nook facing the east, and a rooftop patio on the west side of the house (I'd like to grow plants up there as well) Any recommendations would be appreciated. Jade plant can take pretty much any bullshit as long as it's not over watered
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Oct 14, 2016 22:41
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Elderbean posted:I live in Seattle and want to liven up my townhouse with some plants. I also plan on adopting a dog shortly (I know some plants are not dog-safe) What plants should I be looking for? They won't exactly get lots of sunlight outside of late spring and summer. We have a large living room window/nook facing the east, and a rooftop patio on the west side of the house (I'd like to grow plants up there as well) Any recommendations would be appreciated. Try a ZZ plant.
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Oct 14, 2016 22:43
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I also live in Seattle, and I love my Maranta, Snake plant, and Photos.
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Oct 15, 2016 06:37
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Anyone have any good starter guides for building a sealed terrarium? I've done some light reading on it in the past, but nothing seemed that great. I'm aiming to build a terrarium inside a 5 gallon clear glass jar I picked up at an estate sale.
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Oct 16, 2016 19:56
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Sealed terrariums don't really work unfortunately. You end up with mold and all sorts of other problems associated with high moisture and low airflow. The concept they're based on is the Wardian Case, which was meant as a temporary way to not kill plants on sea voyages. Is there a particular reason you want to make a sealed terrarium?
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Oct 20, 2016 04:22
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Not particularly, other than I thought they were low maintenance and cool.
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Oct 20, 2016 04:31
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Kenning posted:Sealed terrariums don't really work unfortunately. You end up with mold and all sorts of other problems associated with high moisture and low airflow. The concept they're based on is the Wardian Case, which was meant as a temporary way to not kill plants on sea voyages. Is there a particular reason you want to make a sealed terrarium? They are hard to get to work but possible. They need a lot less water than people think which is what usually causes the mold/other problems
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Oct 20, 2016 16:21
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Kenning posted:Sealed terrariums don't really work unfortunately. You end up with mold and all sorts of other problems associated with high moisture and low airflow. The concept they're based on is the Wardian Case, which was meant as a temporary way to not kill plants on sea voyages. Is there a particular reason you want to make a sealed terrarium? Bottle gardens however can last a long time. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPog7W7J5ps
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Oct 20, 2016 17:10
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That one weird British dude who put a plant in a giant chemical jar in the 70s is literally the only person you can find making a sealed planted situation work, and that's not what people are thinking of or want when they're trying to make a closed terrarium. I've got a ziploc baggie full of aquatic plants sitting on the shelf beneath my sundew lights that's been living for a year but that was a mistake I made and it's not something anyone would want anyway. You can find dozens if not hundreds of cute crafty blog posts about how to assemble your apothecary jar or mason jar terraria, but you can't find a single 6-month update post, because they are definitely 100% dead. People have made plantings in undrained glass containers and called them terrariums, but that's just giving a fancy new name to an old potting technique. It actually works great with carnivores if you have enough light because overwatering isn't an issue, but it's not a sealed terrarium. I'd totally love to see proof contra my argument honestly, because yeah it would look cool af, but I really don't think it's possible in any sort of replicable way.
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Oct 24, 2016 03:33
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Alright, I've killed 3 generations of thyme and oregano I've been trying to grow in an herb planter pot. The first generation died when I removed a fennel plant that had gotten huge, but they were thriving before that. Led me to believe the fennel, which was a water hog, kept the soil dry enough for the thyme and oregano. I replaced the fennel with rosemary and new thyme and oregano, but the rosemary has outlasted two generations now. I must be overwatering, right? I don't water until the soil is dry, even waiting until the thyme looks crispy, but the stems brown and die eventually. Happened to a couple of the rosemary limbs as well, but that has abated. Also, I believe these herbs are averse to fertilizing, correct? I'm really not this bad at keeping plants alive, my porch is growing into a forest of various things. Here are a few of the plants I've managed NOT to kill: Drosera aliciae sundew, care of Kenning and http://www.predatoryplants.com/. This little guy is putting out 2-3 new leaves a week.  Progress of my "three amigos," a propagation from a mystery leaf plucked from a friend's succulent in late December, first pic is 7 months ago. And yea, they've been overwatered as well...   A half dozen 1.5 month-old castor bean saplings grown from beans from my grandfather's garden that really need to slow their roll until Spring. 
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Nov 4, 2016 21:47
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I would imagine waiting until they are dry and crispy is killing them. That is advice to follow for succulents but not other plants. Maybe herbs like it dry though? But overwatering symptoms are rot and soft plants, not brown and crispy
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Nov 5, 2016 01:35
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We have a large west facing window/nook in our living room that would look great with some plants. Any recommendations for a beginner? There's a fair amount of space in the ceiling of the nook, so I can hang planters as well. I think something with vines would look pretty cool, but I'm open to suggestions. We also have a bathroom with an east facing window that could use something. We live in Seattle, so we have short cloudy days during the winter and bright summers. Some pictures, for reference.  
Elderbean fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Nov 7, 2016 |
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Nov 7, 2016 19:11
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Elderbean posted:We have a large west facing window/nook in our living room that would look great with some plants. Any recommendations for a beginner? There's a fair amount of space in the ceiling of the nook, so I can hang planters as well. I think something with vines would look pretty cool, but I'm open to suggestions. We also have a bathroom with an east facing window that could use something. We live in Seattle, so we have short cloudy days during the winter and bright summers. Last time you posted this question, I suggested: Pham Nuwen posted:Ficus is the standard indoor + low light recommendation. Pothos also has a reputation for hardiness, and it fits the vine criteria. The guy in the next cube over has one growing all over and it gets zero direct sunlight. All three of these suggestions are pretty tough and can do fine in low light.
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Nov 7, 2016 19:48
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Elderbean posted:We have a large west facing window/nook in our living room that would look great with some plants. Any recommendations for a beginner? There's a fair amount of space in the ceiling of the nook, so I can hang planters as well. I think something with vines would look pretty cool, but I'm open to suggestions. We also have a bathroom with an east facing window that could use something. We live in Seattle, so we have short cloudy days during the winter and bright summers. A snake plant on either side of that large window would do well too. They grow mostly upright, about 3 feet high. Head out to Home Depot and browse their indoor plant section, checking the tags for light requirements.
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Nov 8, 2016 16:45
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goodness posted:I would imagine waiting until they are dry and crispy is killing them. That is advice to follow for succulents but not other plants. Maybe herbs like it dry though? Yeah, this is most likely the case. When they are getting crispy, it's a sign that the plants are way too dry and are now having some parts (usually the roots or leaves) die. It's okay to go ahead and water the herb more often, especially if you are already waiting for the herbs' pot soil to be feel dry to a depth of one inch. Yeah, the succulent leaf plants are overwatered, but they can recover pretty well if allowed for the soil to dry out between watering. Herbs prefer the soil to be dry to touch if you poke your finger in the pot to tell if they need water, while succulent plants do best if the soil is airy and fairly dry all together before more water is added. In regards to the castor oil plants, they look very healthy! They usually make nice ornamental plants, so I hope things go well. Elderbean posted:We have a large west facing window/nook in our living room that would look great with some plants. Any recommendations for a beginner? There's a fair amount of space in the ceiling of the nook, so I can hang planters as well. I think something with vines would look pretty cool, but I'm open to suggestions. We also have a bathroom with an east facing window that could use something. We live in Seattle, so we have short cloudy days during the winter and bright summers. If you want a vine, may I recommend a Hoya plant? They grow slower than a pothos or philodendron, and occasionally reward you with long lasting flowers that smell great. Red-veined prayer plant is technically a vine too, but have really nice erect leaves, and will reward you by spamming you with small purple flowers if they get enough light. Non-vine plants I can recommend are miniature african violets, Christmas cactus as other people have recommended, peace lilly, easter cactus, fishbone cactus, aloe, zz plant, jade plant, false aralia, jewel orchid, umbrella plant, air plant, and probably any plant that you see indoors in the houseplant section at a local big box store. I've never had false or true aralia, jewel orchids, air plants, or umbrella plants, but those are plants that I think look lovely. The rest are plants that I had personal experience experience with, and guarantee are forgiving and rewarding. Heck, you know what? If you're feeling adventurous, you could probably even go for a marimo ball, which is a ball of algae that can grow in a jar of tap water. Those are supposedly really easy to grow as well.
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Nov 11, 2016 01:33
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EagerSleeper posted:If you want a vine, may I recommend a Hoya plant? They grow slower than a pothos or philodendron, and occasionally reward you with long lasting flowers that smell overpoweringly great. FTFY Seriously, they smell that good, THAT strongly. If you're looking for a pretty vine, I'll suggest a Purple Passion. I've also had false aralia. None lasted longer than a few months. I like to think that I have a pretty green thumb, but those plants I just cannot keep alive, nor African Masks.
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Nov 11, 2016 05:52
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Stumbled across a huge christmas cactus the other day. That's a north-facing window.
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Nov 11, 2016 18:06
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Stumbled across a huge christmas cactus the other day. That's a north-facing window. Here's a picture of my Christmas cactus:  Everyone in my family has a clone of my grandmother's plant, and they all have this much sparser style. Personally, I like it, and it has great flowers a couple times a year; is this just this plant or are there well-known varieties that have bushier or sparser forms?
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Nov 11, 2016 18:50
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Pham Nuwen posted:Here's a picture of my Christmas cactus: There are a few different species of Christmas cactus and probably hybrids between them too. They're really neat plants!
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Nov 12, 2016 00:49
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Just picked up some succuli. What is a good indoor light for them to grow on a counter?
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Nov 14, 2016 04:34
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goodness posted:Just picked up some succuli. Congrats on the new plant friend! Whenever you say counter, is the plant on a location where you're going to look at fairly often, or perhaps in a closet converted to a grow room? Just wondering because if the plant will be looked at often, then probably a white grow light would be preferable. Unfortunately I'm not really an expert in grow lights. My experience so far has been mixing LED floodlight bulbs in warm white and daylight varieties, plus the occasional red+blue LED grow light. However, I hear that florescent lights and CFLs could do the job. CFLs would probably work best if it's a single plant, but hopefully someone with more experience than me can chime in.
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Nov 14, 2016 19:56
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I'm also not anything resembling an expert, but the succulents I got this summer and brought inside have been happy so far under daylight (6500 K) CFL bulbs in generic clamp lights. The plants that are closest to the lights (really close, like 4" or so) are actually looking even better than they did when they were outside.
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Nov 15, 2016 00:26
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In addition to getting the right light for yo plant, it's also important to have enough light for it. Sometimes you might need two or three light bulbs if a single one isn't cutting it. Some signs that plants aren't getting enough light are drooping, strange discoloration, roots rotting, the leaves starting to look see-through and pale, etc. Sometimes lack of light can be fixed by moving the plant closer to the source, but sometimes you'll need multiple bulbs.
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Nov 15, 2016 02:05
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They will be on a counter I look at most days, though I will have a grow tent to throw some in soon. I will be replanting the four I got into a box I'm building. They came in small plastic cubes full of mostly rock. How can I tell when it's dry?
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Nov 15, 2016 03:25
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Two methods I use to tell if a plant needs water are: 1) Lift and weigh method. A plant pot in need of water will be way lighter than one that still has water. 2) Probe the soil. Poke your finger at least one inch into the soil and feel if it's still moist or not. This works the best, because while the surface soil can look dry, the inner soil never lies. I'm not sure if you mean to say that the plants growing media are pure pebbles and rocks, but those methods should still work either way. The second method should is the most direct method and should work the best. By the way, what sort of succulents are they?
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Nov 15, 2016 08:51
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EagerSleeper posted:Two methods I use to tell if a plant needs water are: I can't really poke my finger into the rocks. There may be some soil down in there. I'll post a picture in the morning.
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Nov 15, 2016 09:08
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Finally built a box for these, I need some help with the soil. Most of the box is going to be filled with sand or something else, the succulents sit in tubes that open under it. I'm trying to find a substrate for the succulents that can match the color of the rest of the box substrate. Or I could put sand over the top of the cactus substrate and water through it. That could work? goodness posted:
goodness fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Dec 9, 2016 |
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Nov 16, 2016 00:39
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That's usually pretty much what the flower stalks on that kind of succulent look like, although I'd say the stalks on that one are exceptionally long. You just don't see them flower all that often.
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Nov 16, 2016 00:51
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goodness posted:
Beautiful selections of euphorbias, haworthia, and moon cactus! Are the rocks glued together and that's not letting you poke into the soil? Sometimes plant sellers do that for display reasons, but if you need to, it is possible to tear apart the glue so you can probe the soil.
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Nov 16, 2016 02:25
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EagerSleeper posted:Beautiful selections of euphorbias, haworthia, and moon cactus! Not glued, just a lot of them. I can take a couple scoops out otherwise it will overflow if it mess with it. Found a nice greenhouse that had a huge selection. Probably 25+ other species all in great shape
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Nov 16, 2016 02:30
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goodness posted:
That's a zebra cactus. That reminds me, it's been ages since mine has bloomed. I've always had a hard time finding the right amount of light for him. Too much and the green turns rusty brown, too little and it gets leggy. Mine's also about 12 years old now. It's grown so tall, it's fallen over, split 3-4 times and too many offsets to count.
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Nov 16, 2016 17:07
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Strictly speaking that's Haworthia attenuata, which is only very distantly related to any cactus.
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Nov 17, 2016 01:30
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You can buy a little stick hygrometer that will tell you how moist the soil is, if you want. Something like this (I don't own this one, just a random cheap pick): https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Indoor-Outdoor-Moisture-Hygrometer/dp/B00CTPXXEE/
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Nov 17, 2016 02:01
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Kenning posted:Strictly speaking that's Haworthia attenuata, which is only very distantly related to any cactus. Pssh, next you're gonna tell me a Christmas Cactus isn't a real cactus.
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Nov 18, 2016 07:42
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For low-light environments I like phalaenopsis orchids and lucky bamboo (actually a species of dracaena, not at all related to real bamboo). I have both in my apartment, which has one north-facing window and pretty much zero natural light and they do alright. The orchids get watered once a week or so, and the dracaena just lives in a vase of water and both seem pretty happy with their situation.
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Nov 18, 2016 12:02
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| # ? May 16, 2024 04:38 |
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Need a spot of advice from those more competent than me. I'm fortunate to have an apartment with an unusually large balcony/porch and have been growing this that and the other out there all year long. We've had a couple nights dip into freezing and I need to start considering how to winter these plants. They're all in pots of varying sizes and I don't live on the ground floor, so I'm worried they'll be hit harder by the cold than something in the ground proper. Red Banana Trees (x2): Moving them inside to where they can get as much sun as I can manage. Pepper plants (Jalapeno, Habanero, Tabasco): Moved inside, but I've read it's possible to winter them outside so I'll likely be shifting them into a semi-protected corner of the porch for the sake of having space in my apartment. Assorted herbs: Moved inside with no issues due to smaller pots. Muscadine vine: This is the problem child. I've moved it inside, but it clearly isn't enjoying it. The leaves are starting to turn yellow and fall off. I'm concerned that the pot it's in is too small and would be more susceptible to cold/frost than a larger one with more insulating soil. Any recommendations?
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Nov 18, 2016 15:24
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