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22 Eargesplitten posted:It's a ZX2, so thankfully not one of those. I'll do it this weekend, then. Distilled is always preferable, since minerals in tap water can accumulate in your system. And always catch and bottle the fluid that comes out, it will salt the earth it touches, is super toxic to animals, and is full of heavy metals. Most cities have free recycling programs if your local autoparts store won't take it
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Nov 17, 2016 20:52
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Not deionized/RO though, as that'll pull ions from the metal in the system, and accelerate corrosion, from what I've read.
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Nov 17, 2016 22:09
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Not deionized/RO though, as that'll pull ions from the metal in the system, and accelerate corrosion, from what I've read. There's no functional difference between DI/RO and distilled unless you're a chemist and require ultra-pure water. Unless you have exceptionally hard tap water, there's no actual advantage to using deionized/distilled water. Metal parts will indeed corrode slightly in contact with the water to reach an equilibrium ion concentration, but it's probably not significant. It's why coolants have buffers and anti-corrosion additives.
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Nov 17, 2016 22:28
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2001 Lexus ES300, got a code P1354 (VVT system fault), all signs seem to point to faulty oil control valves, or perhaps a VVTi controller. Car seems to drive more or less normal, is it safe to drive for a few days until I can resolve the problem?
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Nov 17, 2016 22:39
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Deteriorata posted:There's no functional difference between DI/RO and distilled unless you're a chemist and require ultra-pure water. Huh, I suppose that makes sense, just everything I have ever seen has said distilled only. I'll still do distilled for flushes, but I won't cry if I need to bring out the hose for whatever reason. By "exceptionally hard water" do you mean well water or water that is above the EPA's limit of metals?
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Nov 17, 2016 23:18
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The Door Frame posted:Distilled is always preferable, since minerals in tap water can accumulate in your system. And always catch and bottle the fluid that comes out, it will salt the earth it touches, is super toxic to animals, and is full of heavy metals. Most cities have free recycling programs if your local autoparts store won't take it How much water does it normally take after you drain for it to go clear? I've got a 5 qt sealing drain pan I can use, but googling it looks like it has 7.5 quarts, so I'll need to get something bigger. My landfill does have a recycling program, so I can just go down there. My concern is that it might take another couple gallons for the water to go through completely clear, and that would take a lot more containers.
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Nov 18, 2016 00:38
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Do it a gallon at a time. Pour your collection container into the empty. I flushed the block on my Jeep because there was a bunch of sand in it that ruined my heater core and radiator (the new ones were installed but not connected yet) with about 5 gallons because I really wanted to make sure I got as much out as possible. It was completely clear after 2 gallons of water.
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Nov 18, 2016 00:50
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Yeah, it only takes like 2-3 flushes, max 4 to come clean unless the car is rotting out or something. Oh wait, the distilled water thing comes from cast iron blocks, doesn't it?
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Nov 18, 2016 00:53
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Kibbles n Shits posted:2001 Lexus ES300, got a code P1354 (VVT system fault), all signs seem to point to faulty oil control valves, or perhaps a VVTi controller. Car seems to drive more or less normal, is it safe to drive for a few days until I can resolve the problem? As long as it doesn't sound like a rock in a tin can your fine. It is the vvt solenoid . and if your lucky it's the easy one. If not it's the one which requires multiple extensions and flex sockets.
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Nov 18, 2016 01:24
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Kibbles n Shits posted:2001 Lexus ES300, got a code P1354 (VVT system fault), all signs seem to point to faulty oil control valves, or perhaps a VVTi controller. Car seems to drive more or less normal, is it safe to drive for a few days until I can resolve the problem? You're fine driving it so long as there's no unusual noises, it'll just be down a bit on power if you stomp it. Check the oil immediately though, if it's really low (I'm talking "barely on the dipstick" or "nothing on the dipstick" low), that could trigger it (and also cause engine damage). That engine has a pretty decent oil capacity (5 quarts), but that engine also leaks oil from every gasket pretty much from new. If oil changes haven't been kept up with, sludge could also cause it. So long as it's been maintained, it's likely a solenoid. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:30 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 07:26
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Thhe reason to use distilled water is to keep calcium/lime deposits (hard water) from building up in the system. I would flush into containers till it comes out mostly clear, then onto the ground till it is completely clear. Then drain fully (may need to disconnect more hoses and/or remove drain plugs and tip the car around with a jack to get it all out) and fill it back up. E: on the pt cruiser, no the leaking oil is probably not a warped head or bad head gasket unless it is also leaking or consuming coolant. I dunno why you would think that as a parts store guy... also if you put r134a in it, please make sure it is NOT the can with leakstop in it, and if it is one of those parts store refill kits, you may not be doing the buyer any favors because the gauge is pretty bullshit on those. kastein fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 14:37
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kastein posted:Thhe reason to use distilled water is to keep calcium/lime deposits (hard water) from building up in the system. I would flush into containers till it comes out mostly clear, then onto the ground till it is completely clear. Then drain fully (may need to disconnect more hoses and/or remove drain plugs and tip the car around with a jack to get it all out) and fill it back up. That's correct. My point was that unless your tap water is exceptionally hard, the total amount of lime introduced in ~4 quarts of water is minuscule. The vast majority of the metal ions that form the carbonate scale in cooling systems comes from the slow corrosion of the internal metal parts themselves. Using distilled water doesn't hurt, but it doesn't really help any, either, in most cases.
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Nov 18, 2016 15:51
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:You're fine driving it so long as there's no unusual noises, it'll just be down a bit on power if you stomp it. Check the oil immediately though, if it's really low (I'm talking "barely on the dipstick" or "nothing on the dipstick" low), that could trigger it (and also cause engine damage). That engine has a pretty decent oil capacity (5 quarts), but that engine also leaks oil from every gasket pretty much from new. If oil changes haven't been kept up with, sludge could also cause it. Oh yea It's had every single oil change in its 15 years, (and currently full of oil) and every oil seal on the engine is new except for the rear main. Got new solenoids on the way, thanks! Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 17:26
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I'm having an issue with my remote starter. Namely, it won't start the car. Anyone have any idea about this? Is there a better thread to post this? I really don't want to bring it to the local stereo experts. $120/hr no matter how small the job.
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Nov 18, 2016 19:32
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Does the starter come with some kind of warranty, or the installation job? Where did you purchase and who installed it? Call the support phone number for the remote manufacturer? Sounds hard to diagnose over the internet. If it's truly a half hour job then it's $60, right? Not too bad if none of the above options work. Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 20:28
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Well, I finally figured out what was making that awful rattling noise at idle. Cleaning the intake, checking for vacuum leaks, and resetting the fuel map lowered my idle RPMs by 350, so that's always good, but I couldn't get the cold start rattle to go away. Turns out, my loving hood latch was a little loose and the adjustment knobs were too high, so the hood was just rattling because it wasn't actually closing all of the way...
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Nov 19, 2016 00:22
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So I have a Diesel engine and a bottle of anti geling stuff spilled all over my trunk. What's the best way to get the smell out?
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Nov 19, 2016 01:49
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Today I had condensation on the inside of my windshield. Even with defrost on, it didn't go away. I tried warm air like usual, then cold air. Recycled air, external air, A/C, it wouldn't go away. Has anyone heard of anything like that? I'm wondering if it has to do with my wife vaping her e-cig in there. Residue or something.
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Nov 19, 2016 02:02
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Today I had condensation on the inside of my windshield. Even with defrost on, it didn't go away. I tried warm air like usual, then cold air. Recycled air, external air, A/C, it wouldn't go away. Has anyone heard of anything like that? I'm wondering if it has to do with my wife vaping her e-cig in there. Residue or something. Yes, I vape in my car with my windows closed most mornings before work and I have to routinely clean off the film that forms all over my windshield.
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Nov 19, 2016 02:08
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Today I had condensation on the inside of my windshield. Even with defrost on, it didn't go away. I tried warm air like usual, then cold air. Recycled air, external air, A/C, it wouldn't go away. Has anyone heard of anything like that? I'm wondering if it has to do with my wife vaping her e-cig in there. Residue or something. If it's not the propylene glycol from vaping, it's the ethylene glycol from your cooling system escaping from your heater core! So hopefully it's the former, because replacing a heater core sucks.
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Nov 19, 2016 02:15
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I switched to VG fluid because the PG was leaving a gross film on my windshield. The VG takes weeks longer to build up on the glass, so I have to clean it less
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Nov 19, 2016 02:55
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I sidestep the whole issue by not vaping. 
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Nov 19, 2016 03:12
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Platystemon posted:I sidestep the whole issue by not vaping. Sucks that it's not as sweet as PG, but that can be a benefit for some. My girlfriend preferred the smell of real cigarettes to the sickly sweetness of my old PG fluid
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Nov 19, 2016 03:20
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Speaking of condensation: I recently (as it's getting colder) noticed the windows fogging up, then I noticed that the passenger side floors were soaking wet. As the sides and roof lining are bone dry, the prime suspect is a clogged A/C drain and that it's been going on for quite a while. The next suspect is that water somehow is getting in from under the car, but assuming that there aren't any rust holes etc, is that even possible? Most of the bottom of the car is covered in plastic undertrays, but I kind of recently broke a couple of screwets, and it's not as "tight" as before. I haven't had the time to get under the car and have a look. Been doing my best to try to dry it out so far. Edit: Just poured some water into the AC drain tube. No real problem there. Back to square one. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Nov 19, 2016 |
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Nov 19, 2016 09:03
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I'm paranoid after my timing chain failure at 50,000mi (I'm at 60 now)but I swear I'm hearing some clickity-clackity from the right side of my 3.5l ecoboost F150 engine. It seems to occur when I've got the pedal about 1/3 way depressed and held and seems to possibly be related to boost (when cold). Also, it seems to hesitate and studder when I do this. Any idea what might be the culprit?
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Nov 19, 2016 10:24
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See if your f150 has a tab for transmission separator plate with dealer
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Nov 19, 2016 14:20
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MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of condensation: I recently (as it's getting colder) noticed the windows fogging up, then I noticed that the passenger side floors were soaking wet. As the sides and roof lining are bone dry, the prime suspect is a clogged A/C drain and that it's been going on for quite a while. Heater core? For your sake I hope not. "Soaking wet" suggest it's not just condensation.
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Nov 19, 2016 19:00
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Godholio posted:Heater core? For your sake I hope not. "Soaking wet" suggest it's not just condensation. I certainly hope not. I think the "soaking wet" part is due to me not noticing the water for ages, allowing it to build up. The water is odorless, the heater works very well, and the AC seems to work (hard to tell since it's around freezing here). Googling tells me that those things speak against a heater core failure. I'm 99% sure I haven't lost any coolant. I also haven't really seen any increase in water. I put some old towels in to soak up the free water under the carpets (there is a small hole to view vin numbers) and they soaked up all the free water. Problem now is that the sound deadening under the carpets have soaked up a ton of water, and it's hard to get out. Maybe put some socks full of silica cat litter in under the carpets to help dry it out?
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Nov 19, 2016 19:11
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It's worth a shot. If it starts to mildew, just cut your losses and replace the entire section.
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Nov 19, 2016 21:47
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Pull the carpets and hang them in your unfinished basement or garage, or over a porch railing if you lack those. They will drip and air dry pretty well. Then sop up the water and fix the issue that you have, which given the symptoms is almost certainly water leaking through the firewall where there is supposed to be a gasket (usually between the hvac duct boxes and firewall) or the condensate drain tube coming off.
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Nov 19, 2016 21:53
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MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of condensation: I recently (as it's getting colder) noticed the windows fogging up, then I noticed that the passenger side floors were soaking wet. As the sides and roof lining are bone dry, the prime suspect is a clogged A/C drain and that it's been going on for quite a while. FWIW, 90-93 Integras had a huge issue where you'd get a waterfall pouring out from under the dash anytime you went through a car wash. Or when it rained. Or if it thought about raining. It was a really lovely gasket design on the fresh air inlet under the cowl. In the case of that generation Integra... the ECU was directly under where the water would pour onto the carpet (ask how I learned this).  Maybe google if your particular car model has a similar issue?
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Nov 20, 2016 07:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:FWIW, 90-93 Integras had a huge issue where you'd get a waterfall pouring out from under the dash anytime you went through a car wash. Or when it rained. Or if it thought about raining. I've googled it to death, and the same platform vehicles. I'm trying to figure out what's changed since I've washed the car multiple times without trouble during the summer / early fall. There are loads of trees where I park, so it's not impossible that something's gotten clogged up. But I need to take off the wipers to access the scuttle bay, not something I can really do here since I got street parking. The only other thing I've done is spray some (low viscosity) Dinitrol rust proofing into the rocker panels / beams. Nothing that should in any way clog up potential drain holes or anything. Have to buy some time right now, might be able to get away and pull out the passenger side interior and dry it out / go leak hunting. Edit: Went down to the car to put some silicate cat litter in old socks underneath the carpet. Checked the coolant - it was same level as usual. Checked for clogged scuttle drains, but it was clean. At least it hasn't become any wetter despite a decent amount of rain the last week. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 18:51 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 10:06
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Raluek posted:If it's not the propylene glycol from vaping, it's the ethylene glycol from your cooling system escaping from your heater core! So hopefully it's the former, because replacing a heater core sucks. It disappeared by the next day, not sure what that means. I have been suspecting it has to do with the e-cig, but I never had any proof. Maybe I need to open a window partway rather than just turning it to external air.
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Nov 20, 2016 18:48
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The passenger air bag display light cover in my car broke. I can superglue it back together, but it's not going to look great and I'm not sure how it will last. It's a $25 part so I'm not eager to pay for one either. I'd like to replace it with a simple piece of translucent plastic, since there's a bright orange light underneath it and I kind of like how it looks with the cavity empty. Is that...a thing? Do they sell things like that? When I was in high school I would have just grabbed a piece of acrylic plastic from the shop and machined it to fit, but it's not like I have access to that stuff any longer. What do other people do when they need to replace these?  
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Nov 20, 2016 20:24
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You're probably the first person to ever break one. You can buy acrylic at any home improvement store or online. Not sure you're going to save much money though.
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Nov 20, 2016 22:32
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22 Eargesplitten posted:It disappeared by the next day, not sure what that means. I have the same issue whenever it's humid. In my case, it's grease  from years of food delivery.Get some Stoner's Invisible Glass. It's the best glass cleaner you'll ever use, and it's also tint safe. If it'll take (food) grease off of my windows, it'll take your vape poo poo off. The Wonder Weapon posted:The passenger air bag display light cover in my car broke. I can superglue it back together, but it's not going to look great and I'm not sure how it will last. It's a $25 part so I'm not eager to pay for one either. Depending on how picky your area is with safety inspections, a clear piece may be cause for failure. It'll also raise some eyebrows whenever you go to sell the car. Go to a junkyard, preferably the self-service variety.
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Nov 20, 2016 23:46
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I'm a dumb dumb who can't change a car battery. When I tried to knock off the clamp that was stuck to the battery post, I must've ripped a wire off somewhere. With the new battery, Everything electronic in the car works, but the odometer reads as dashes and the car won't even crank. Googling sez that this cable probably needs to be grounded somewhere, but when I try to ground it, none of the electronics work. Now, I haven't checked the fuses, but I might've blown one doing all this. I stripped it and tried several spots I thought might be good grounds. I realize this might be pretty dumb. Basically, can anyone tell me where this dinky wire should go? The end was corroded off, which means it probably had a ground connector bracket but I can't see it anywhere And I can't read a wiring diagram for poo poo. This is a 2005 focus 4door zx3. I'd really hate to take it in when I'm pretty positive this wire just has to go somewhere simple. 
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Nov 21, 2016 02:44
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An update on my suspected clogged turbo TDI - we got some oven cleaner into the turbo, and blew some black crud out of the exhaust pipe. Getting this bugger off was not easy. The bolts were stubborn as heck.  Lemon scented even. This was a strange task. Luckily, the nozzle end and the aquarium tubing were a tight fit! No tape required!  After we drove the car to blow all the oven cleaner out, we sprayed some carb cleaner into the intake, which blew some more crud out the exhaust. The car has a bit more power now, but it's not normal yet. We will do this again next weekend and see if it helps, otherwise, it's going into the shop. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice / posted videos / etc.
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Nov 21, 2016 03:22
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meanolmrcloud posted:I'm a dumb dumb who can't change a car battery. When I tried to knock off the clamp that was stuck to the battery post, I must've ripped a wire off somewhere. With the new battery, Everything electronic in the car works, but the odometer reads as dashes and the car won't even crank. Googling sez that this cable probably needs to be grounded somewhere, but when I try to ground it, none of the electronics work. Now, I haven't checked the fuses, but I might've blown one doing all this. I stripped it and tried several spots I thought might be good grounds. I realize this might be pretty dumb. It's not a long piece of wire...somewhere within reach is the big plastic connector that's supposed to be part of.
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Nov 21, 2016 03:28
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meanolmrcloud posted:I'm a dumb dumb who can't change a car battery. When I tried to knock off the clamp that was stuck to the battery post, I must've ripped a wire off somewhere. With the new battery, Everything electronic in the car works, but the odometer reads as dashes and the car won't even crank. Googling sez that this cable probably needs to be grounded somewhere, but when I try to ground it, none of the electronics work. Now, I haven't checked the fuses, but I might've blown one doing all this. I stripped it and tried several spots I thought might be good grounds. I realize this might be pretty dumb. What you're actually holding is a protective sheath, and it looks like that orange and black wire goes into it. From what I dug up, that wire should be grounded to the battery's negative post. For testing, you can just remove the negative battery clamp, jam the wire between the negative battery post and clamp, and reattach. You may even be able to loosen that nut where a smaller wire attaches and attach it there. It appears to be the ground for several electronics. If that gets it going, for a more permanent fix, crimp a ring terminal on it and put it under that nut. Also, that sheath is known as "split loom". You may want to feel inside and see if there's any other wires inside of there. Anything in there should probably be grounded (but I don't have a schematic in front of me). Finally... you didn't hook the battery up backwards at some point, did you? Or hook up jumper cables backwards while trying to get it to start with the dead battery? Because if so... you're not in for a fun time. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 21, 2016 04:13
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