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The lower speeds on my Mat 124G suddenly started sticking, as in the shutter doesn't shut again after the exposure time elapsed. Is there anything for a hobbyist to try and fix this ? I read that opening the thing and dropping a few droplets of oil (which kind ?) could fix this. Bummer as I really like the little thing. e: I'm bringing it to a shop and have a quote for a CLA, should be around 130e unpacked robinhood fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Nov 12, 2016 |
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Nov 12, 2016 10:55
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iSheep fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Nov 13, 2016 |
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Nov 13, 2016 18:24
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Nov 13, 2016 22:08
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gently caress YOU ALKANPHEL YOUR STUFF IS TOO GOOD!
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Nov 14, 2016 01:25
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unpacked robinhood posted:The lower speeds on my Mat 124G suddenly started sticking, as in the shutter doesn't shut again after the exposure time elapsed. Can you separate the shutter from the rest of the camera? Sometimes leaving it in a bath of ligther fluid for a day or two with intermittent agitation, then letting everything evaporate works for fixings old shutters. Note that this is usually for large format shutters where you can separate them from everything else in the camera...
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Nov 14, 2016 01:27
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unpacked robinhood posted:The lower speeds on my Mat 124G suddenly started sticking, as in the shutter doesn't shut again after the exposure time elapsed. Really no, get it professionally cleaned. Mark Hama is the Yashica Whisperer. Maybe have an aftermarket focus screen swapped in while you do it.
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Nov 14, 2016 02:37
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Primo Itch posted:gently caress YOU ALKANPHEL YOUR STUFF IS TOO GOOD! Thanks~ 
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Nov 14, 2016 03:04
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Wild EEPROM fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jan 15, 2017 |
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Nov 14, 2016 05:48
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Primo Itch posted:Can you separate the shutter from the rest of the camera? Sometimes leaving it in a bath of ligther fluid for a day or two with intermittent agitation, then letting everything evaporate works for fixings old shutters. Note that this is usually for large format shutters where you can separate them from everything else in the camera... The lighter fluid trick is really only a stop gap measure on the way to a CLA. The naphtha dissolves the gummed up lubricant which causes the sticking but an unlubricated shutter will eventually fail again,
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Nov 14, 2016 14:19
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Thanks. First I'll try bringing it to a local shop tomorrow and see what they say. 
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Nov 14, 2016 16:20
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Nov 14, 2016 18:16
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Nov 15, 2016 19:58
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SFP is kickstarting a 5x7 version of their tank. $97 for one tank, $177 for two.
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Nov 16, 2016 01:37
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Nov 18, 2016 00:53
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edit: i suck
Thoogsby fucked around with this message at 16:57 on Nov 18, 2016 |
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Nov 18, 2016 04:27
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There was some Pentax 67 chat last page so I hope you guys might be able to set me straight on my new 6x7 - it's been a dream camera of mine for awhile but I just got mine yesterday and I'm afraid I'm loving poo poo up already.  Here's where I'm at right now:  The film's loaded, the frame counter is at 1, and the wind lever in that position is very tense, so it seems like the shutter should be cocked, but... it's not firing. Everything is properly set for 120 film, I popped a fresh battery in when I got it yesterday and can see that the TTL viewfinder is working fine. The camera is in amazing condition so I don't think it's a mechanical / electrical issue, I'm guessing I just screwed up the film loading somehow. What's my best bet here? Will I be able to just wind the rest of the roll through if I open the back at this point? Thanks guys!
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Nov 19, 2016 19:22
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I'd just open the back , make sure the back swings fully open and then close it again, wind it again as this will reset the counter, and go from there accepting that you're going to lose 2-4 shots. I'm not sure why the lever would stop there.
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Nov 19, 2016 19:39
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Cyne posted:There was some Pentax 67 chat last page so I hope you guys might be able to set me straight on my new 6x7 - it's been a dream camera of mine for awhile but I just got mine yesterday and I'm afraid I'm loving poo poo up already. Can you open the back and show us what it looks like? I agree that at this point you'll be losing the first few shots on the roll no matter what. I'm wondering if maybe you loaded the film backwards? If the lever is at that point, it's not fully wound yet. When the first frame is ready to shoot the lever should be in its resting position.
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Nov 19, 2016 20:21
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Okay, I opened it up, wound it again, and now I have a new problem - the wind lever went all the way back when I got to frame 1 this time but the shutter still isn't firing and now when I open the back and close it again the frame counter stays at 1 and the wind lever is still stuck. Here's what it looks like right now:
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Nov 19, 2016 21:08
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I'm really having trouble focusing my Pentax67. The lines are just so hard to see and i can't really tell if things are perfectly in focus, just kinda focused. What's the secret? For example:  Guy at Mini Mart by Kyle Sonnenberg, on Flickr
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Nov 19, 2016 22:09
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drat, I thought I had problems because my RB67 has a very faint light leak that shows up as a subtle color shift on 400iso+ film. At least I can focus and take pictures.
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Nov 19, 2016 22:19
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GW690 so simple, so good, none of this SLR business
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Nov 19, 2016 22:45
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MrBlandAverage posted:If the lever is at that point, it's not fully wound yet. When the first frame is ready to shoot the lever should be in its resting position. Yeah, I was having some trouble visualizing what was supposed to happen just by reading the old instruction manual I found online. Watching a YouTube video was helpful, and obviously something I should have done beforehand. As painful as it is for a roll of 120 I'm kind of ready to say gently caress this and just start over with a new roll. Am I going to damage anything at this point by just removing the spools to get the film out?
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Nov 19, 2016 23:02
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Erostratus posted:I'm really having trouble focusing my Pentax67. The lines are just so hard to see and i can't really tell if things are perfectly in focus, just kinda focused. What's the secret? Use the DoF preview lever thing on the lens, helps a bunch.
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Nov 19, 2016 23:45
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You could get a split prism glass for it if you don't have one already, they're easier to focus.
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Nov 20, 2016 01:28
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how to not suck at photo: 1) be good
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Nov 20, 2016 01:41
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Okay well my 6x7 is working now for some reason! The first exposure is a very exciting image of my lens cap! Wow! Seriously though, I look forward to not sucking in my ability to load film in this beautiful beast and having some nice pictures to post in this thread.
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Nov 20, 2016 02:22
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I'm looking at lenses for my Hasselblad. Are there any functional differences between C and CF lenses? My camera will take either.
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Nov 20, 2016 04:17
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Meaty Ore posted:I'm looking at lenses for my Hasselblad. Are there any functional differences between C and CF lenses? My camera will take either. Some of the C lenses (the ones without the T* designation) are single-coated and more prone to flare than modern lenses. There are also some mechanical differences which makes repairing them a much dicier operation - Hasselblad has been out of spare parts for decades, which means that anything going wrong will require a donor lens (most of the repair guys will have a small library of them on hand, being cannibalized one or two parts at a time, but you do pay for this). The 'upgrade' to CFi/CFe lenses is only interesting academically; both lenses feature some improved anti-reflection coatings internally and a better shutter spring (which can be swapped into your CF lens at the next CLA), and CFe lenses can be used with the electrical contacts on the 200-series cameras. In practice you won't see any differences unless you're looking at large prints with a loupe.
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Nov 20, 2016 05:42
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Focusing is also a lot smoother on the CFe/CFi lenses and I think the lens mount is better too. But yeah like Yond said, none of that makes a difference to image quality, they're all the same optically. The T* coating helps for contrast and flare but it's not like something amazingly different.
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Nov 20, 2016 09:14
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Two exceptions to that guideline, now that I think of it, on opposite ends of the Hasselblad range: * Partway through the CF production run, the 40mm and 50mm lenses added a floating lens element that reduces distortion and improves edge/corner sharpness. The effect is pretty noticeable, though whether it's worth the money is still a matter of debate. * There are extensive mechanical changes in the 250mm and 300mm super achromats between the CF and CFi revisions, more so than with the other lenses, and I have heard that there was some slight optical tweaking to take advantage of some new manufacturing capabilities at Zeiss. The CFi lenses go for $5K+ now, though, so... good job if you're looking at those. Cassius Belli fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Nov 20, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 16:14
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A side benefit of the C lenses is that they are smaller than the later CF ones. I had a beat to hell t* C lens and it was extremely compact (for a medium format SLR).
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Nov 20, 2016 16:53
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Thanks for the input. I was mainly looking at the 140-280mm zoom at the one end or the 40mm or 50mm lenses at the other, leaning towards the 40mm if I had to choose just one. I can get by with the standard 80mm and 150mm V lenses that came with the camera, but it's nice to have options. I was briefly toying with the idea of the giant fuckoff 500mm lens, but I don't think I'd get much use out of it. 
Meaty Ore fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Nov 21, 2016 |
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Nov 20, 2016 19:16
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Nov 21, 2016 05:28
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 My first 4x5, I never want to shoot small formats again 
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Nov 21, 2016 17:10
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Breadnought posted:My first 4x5, I never want to shoot small formats again What camera/lenses did you use/get?
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Nov 21, 2016 19:53
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Nov 22, 2016 11:07
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Nov 22, 2016 14:56
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 untitled-6.jpg by Iain Compton, on Flickr
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Nov 22, 2016 15:34
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| # ? May 14, 2024 13:43 |
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MrBlandAverage posted:What camera/lenses did you use/get? I'm taking a large format class at ICP and they lend you a Toyo 45CF with a 150mm lens (the one that comes with my camera is a Caltar II-E f/6.3). I need to do some soul searching, but there's a fair chance I'll be joining the Chamonix squad at the end of the class.  
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Nov 23, 2016 05:51
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