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All the 05s will have the male splines on the axles. Wagon/obs hare the same cvs and lengths but the WRX has thicker shafts. I was just looking at this section of the FSM.
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Nov 8, 2016 02:48
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Cool, thanks people! A couple websites were throwing me for a loop with different length halfshafts until I noticed that they didn't have male inner splines. I went ahead with this one : https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2977560&cc=1430729&jsn=__GIP__1__
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Nov 8, 2016 03:03
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I went through the same thing on my 04 wrx. All the parts places insisted I had pinned axles but the part was the 05 version. Learned it only after removing the old one and noticed that the new part was not what I needed. This is why the dealer parts guy will ask for your VIN. Subaru changes things midyear
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Nov 8, 2016 03:39
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You can see which version they are pretty easily just by looking. Like through the hood down, you don't even have to climb under the car.
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Nov 8, 2016 05:01
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Here, I generally swap to winters when it is freezing overnight. I wait until the highs are around 40ish. Warm days will really burn them up quick since they're so soft so usually November/December here in Michigan. It's still too warm here so they sit for now.
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Nov 8, 2016 15:46
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Anyone want a Mishimoto aluminum radiator for a GC Impreza at my cost + shipping before I send it back? Fans didn't line up on a forester even though they supposedly use the same part. Also it wasn't looking like there was going to be enough clearance to the pulleys without aftermarket fans anyway. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Nov 10, 2016 |
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Nov 10, 2016 06:58
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I am supposed to help a friend with the timing belt service on their 2008 forester NA, manual. Does anyone have a diagram for the proper tooth count between cams? The gates kit did not specify.
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Nov 10, 2016 22:41
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I am supposed to help a friend with the timing belt service on their 2008 forester NA, manual. Does anyone have a diagram for the proper tooth count between cams? The gates kit did not specify. The belt should be marked. Why are you counting teeth?
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Nov 10, 2016 22:46
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Just to be sure I guess. One more way to confirm correct spacing. When I did my wrx the service manual had counts.
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Nov 10, 2016 22:49
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Just to be sure I guess. One more way to confirm correct spacing. When I did my wrx the service manual had counts. If you have done a wrx, then the sohc timing belt will be stupid simple. I've done about 15 using the gates kit with the marks and never had an issue.
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Nov 10, 2016 22:51
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If the marks on the belt line up and the marks on the crank and cam gears line up, then I would not worry about counting. But if you want to anyway: 
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Nov 10, 2016 23:00
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Awesome, thanks! Edit. Job is done, car seems happy, but some spilled coolant left an oil stain that is still there. Head gasket? Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Nov 13, 2016 |
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Nov 10, 2016 23:07
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After like a year of just ignoring the jerky steering and whiny PS pump on the Forester, I finally got around to ordering a replacement o-ring, and both problems are fixed. I don't understand why I didn't do this sooner, it's literally the simplest fix I've ever done on a car. It took my longer to track down the part number on opposed forces and find one on eBay here in Oz, than it actually did to do the repair. At first, I wasn't sure the noise was fixed, since it was still pretty loud, but looks like it just took a few drives to get all the air worked out of the lines, and it's much quieter now. The actual steering itself was instantly fixed. So chalk me up as another satisfied customer of this fix. I'd say it should be the first step in steering problems on a Subaru, since it seems to be so common and is so cheap and easy to do. Nothing lost by trying it first.
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Nov 14, 2016 03:09
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Recently I've noticed a bit of a chirp when taking my foot off the clutch of my '17 WRX when getting out of my driveway in the mornings. It goes away after a few blocks but I believe it's something recent. Does this sound normal or something I should take to the dealership to get checked out? My initial reaction is that it's normal but I figured I'd get more peoples opinion on this.
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Nov 14, 2016 21:08
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Is there anyone here experienced with romraider that could help me? I cant seem to get the ecu definition to load for the logger. My email is timothy_volkswagen at yahoo if it would be easier to share screenshots and hopefully logs if I cant get them to work. I think if I can just get it setup Ill be able to figure out most of the rest myself. In tried getting some logs today but I have no idea where the files went, they didnt seem to go to where I had them set up to go to. and I may also need help getting them to parse nicely into excel, stuff like that. I live in CT if there are any locals that could help in person.
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Nov 15, 2016 08:22
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net work error posted:Recently I've noticed a bit of a chirp when taking my foot off the clutch of my '17 WRX when getting out of my driveway in the mornings. It goes away after a few blocks but I believe it's something recent. Does this sound normal or something I should take to the dealership to get checked out? My initial reaction is that it's normal but I figured I'd get more peoples opinion on this. This is the Tumble Generator Valve (TGV). It is a half of a butterfly valve in the intake just before the ports that closes when the engine is sufficiently cold to create turbulence in the intake so it will mix fuel better during fuel injection. It's a US only emissions device.
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Nov 15, 2016 14:03
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um excuse me posted:This is the Tumble Generator Valve (TGV). It is a half of a butterfly valve in the intake just before the ports that closes when the engine is sufficiently cold to create turbulence in the intake so it will mix fuel better during fuel injection. It's a US only emissions device. I thought this was the throw out bearing? I have the same issue and I hear it more when I cold start the car and it's moist or humid. I had a much worse issue that was when the car was idling in neutral there was a loud chirping noise. A slight touch to the clutch and it would go away. I think they replaced the throw out bearing and clutch fork.
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Nov 15, 2016 14:27
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shy boy from chess club posted:Is there anyone here experienced with romraider that could help me? I cant seem to get the ecu definition to load for the logger. My email is timothy_volkswagen at yahoo if it would be easier to share screenshots and hopefully logs if I cant get them to work. I think if I can just get it setup Ill be able to figure out most of the rest myself. In tried getting some logs today but I have no idea where the files went, they didnt seem to go to where I had them set up to go to. and I may also need help getting them to parse nicely into excel, stuff like that. I live in CT if there are any locals that could help in person. I've used it before but it's been a few years. If nobody chimes in to help, I'll try! I'll PM you my email.
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Nov 15, 2016 15:36
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um excuse me posted:This is the Tumble Generator Valve (TGV). It is a half of a butterfly valve in the intake just before the ports that closes when the engine is sufficiently cold to create turbulence in the intake so it will mix fuel better during fuel injection. It's a US only emissions device. That makes sense for it going away once it warmed up. Thanks for that info.
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Nov 15, 2016 15:44
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shy boy from chess club posted:Is there anyone here experienced with romraider that could help me? I cant seem to get the ecu definition to load for the logger. My email is timothy_volkswagen at yahoo if it would be easier to share screenshots and hopefully logs if I cant get them to work. I think if I can just get it setup Ill be able to figure out most of the rest myself. In tried getting some logs today but I have no idea where the files went, they didnt seem to go to where I had them set up to go to. and I may also need help getting them to parse nicely into excel, stuff like that. I live in CT if there are any locals that could help in person. Let's catch up on IRC and I'll help you get romraider working.
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Nov 15, 2016 17:04
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Frankenstein posted:Let's catch up on IRC and I'll help you get romraider working. Word, I'll be there a little later.
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Nov 15, 2016 17:16
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Continuing my half shaft saga, alldata yelled at me about replacing the inner oil seals in the front diff. I'm getting conflicting information regarding whether i need left/right specific inner seals. Are they side specific on '05 2.5 AT non-turbo? Subaru is showing only one part number. Or do they mean the actual seals are directional inside the diff?
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Nov 15, 2016 18:36
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JBark posted:After like a year of just ignoring the jerky steering and whiny PS pump on the Forester, I finally got around to ordering a replacement o-ring, and both problems are fixed. I don't understand why I didn't do this sooner, it's literally the simplest fix I've ever done on a car. It took my longer to track down the part number on opposed forces and find one on eBay here in Oz, than it actually did to do the repair. What part and repair guide did you use, if you can be bothered?
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Nov 17, 2016 03:41
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I got my WRX back from ECS Performance, rebuild went well and it drives better than ever. I'm curious about breaking in the engine though. My understanding is you use a non synthetic oil because you want friction so the parts wear together (like new brakes?), and it's normal for metal to be in the oil. My question is, how is this different from the process that ruined the engine in the first place from a spun rod bearing? I get since you replace the oil a few times in the first 1000 miles it doesn't spend long in there, but I probably drove on a spun bearing for less than 100 miles and still needed a complete rebuild. Or is it that there was probably metal in the oil much longer but you can't know until you start to hear rod knock?
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Nov 18, 2016 15:40
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Immolat1on posted:I got my WRX back from ECS Performance, rebuild went well and it drives better than ever. I'm curious about breaking in the engine though. My understanding is you use a non synthetic oil because you want friction so the parts wear together (like new brakes?), and it's normal for metal to be in the oil. Why don't you ask ECS what they recommend since they built the thing?
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Nov 18, 2016 17:47
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BloodBag posted:Why don't you ask ECS what they recommend since they built the thing? Oh I'm following their instructions and everything (and they break it in some before giving it back too), was just curious what's actually happening during break in.
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Nov 18, 2016 18:23
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Immolat1on posted:I got my WRX back from ECS Performance, rebuild went well and it drives better than ever. I'm curious about breaking in the engine though. My understanding is you use a non synthetic oil because you want friction so the parts wear together (like new brakes?), and it's normal for metal to be in the oil. A spun/siezed bearing and the contaminants/damage that it can produce is a night and day difference compared to flushing out the majority of your assembly lube and the residual metals left from seating your cams and piston rings after making love to those freshly honed cylinder walls, but then again debris is debris and you generally want that initial flush performed after the initial mating of parts is done. Follow your builder's recommendation, enjoy your new block.
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Nov 18, 2016 23:13
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My car is a heap. A lug nut caught a thread as I was rattle gunning the things off and it spun the stud. Now I've gotta figure out how to get the nut off the stud and get the stud out. loving new timken hubs too  I'm fixing so much poo poo so often on this car I wonder why I didn't get a BMW and have something that at least drives nice when it's not broken.
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Nov 20, 2016 13:27
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BloodBag posted:My car is a heap. A lug nut caught a thread as I was rattle gunning the things off and it spun the stud. Now I've gotta figure out how to get the nut off the stud and get the stud out. loving new timken hubs too This happened to me last winter when I was putting the winter tires on one afternoon before work. A friend of mine who actually is not a complete imbecile when it comes to cars first broke the lugnut off with a chisel, knocked the sud out and replaced it within ... an hour and change? Before it go dark outside, in any case. It was one of the rear wheels, too, and from my understanding the parking brake made the fit a bit harder. So it's definitely do-able.
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Nov 20, 2016 16:03
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Got my EJ255 head off today and had a good look at it. The engine had lost compression in cylinder three and seemed to be leaking out of the exhaust valve. Later it seemed compression came back and the valve was no longer leaking so bad. Anyway, the valve was leaking a bit, but more importantly, the lifter/bucket on the valve in question was actually cracked. Anyone ever seen this?
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Nov 20, 2016 22:29
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Finished my 13 Forrester's oil consumption test. Final verdict is... 39.5 ounces consumed over 1204 miles. Not sure they understood why I laughed. But what else can you do when you finally have a calibrated measurement of how ridiculous it is? It's burning so much they didn't even want to let us drive it while they get all the parts ready. So we've got a loaner for 2-3 weeks while they give it a new short block. Very curious to see how much the new one will burn.
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Nov 21, 2016 16:50
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I replace all the bearings in my 2004 wrx transfer case this weekend. I also added a kart boy short shift kit while I was in there (thanks jamal). However, when I drained the oil from the transmission, only about 2 quarts came out. The manual says it should take 3.7 quarts. How concerned should I be?
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Nov 21, 2016 18:15
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Not very, the case internal structure won't really let all the fluid drain.
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Nov 21, 2016 18:29
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jamal posted:Not very, the case internal structure won't really let all the fluid drain. Ok. The bearings on the output shaft that goes from the engine to the center diff fell apart once I had them out. Good timing on that change I guess.
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Nov 21, 2016 18:58
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Rust repair on the WRX this week - it's totally normal to have a WRB rear bumper beam on a black car, right? Right? loving POs. At least the rust isn't that bad. I need to remember to take pics of what it takes to put a 5 speed DCCD into a Phase 2 5 speed trans, if only to horrify everyone with the fact that I'd bother.
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Nov 22, 2016 00:31
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 2004 WRX Wagon, got into a fender bender. There is damage to the right door and right fender. Door opens fine, wheel turns fine, so it's only cosmetic. Wondering whether to DIY or take it to a body shop. If I buy a new OEM right fender and front door, it might cost about $750 from Subaru. I'm also keeping an eye out for used parts on car-part.com, craigslist, and ebay, to try to bring the cost down. What would be a reasonable quote for a body shop to pound out the dents and paint where the paint chipped off? I want to get a good ballpark price before I start calling shops.
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Nov 22, 2016 05:33
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Carbocation posted:
I don't think you'll find a decent body shop that would do what you want. The fender is pretty much irreparable. What they'll quote you is a new door skin and a new fender painted to match. Honestly, a new fender would likely cost less than it would take in labor to attempt to do anything with those dents. My guess to fix it fully would be around $1900. Your cheapest repair would be to get a junkyard fender either color matching or getting it painted off car for a rough match and then swapping it out and then ignoring the door.
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Nov 22, 2016 05:44
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:What part and repair guide did you use, if you can be bothered? This had most of the info I needed, though it starts off STi specific. A few pages in there was some info on other models. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1897783 In my case, I needed part #34439AE020 for my SG Forester, and it looks like that same o ring covers a pretty big swath of the other models. Seems like there's only a couple different parts, I think turbo vs. non-turbo was the main difference. It was pretty easy to find the specific one I needed on opposedforces.com http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/us_s11/type_4/steering/oil_pump/illustration_2/ You can also just grab a bag of replacement rings from most parts stores, but I figured it was cheap enough just to order the correct one. And it couldn't be simpler, just remove one bolt, pull up to remove the hose, cover hose with finger to prevent PS fluid from dripping out until you get it raised up, then swap the orings and put it back together. As long as you don't pinch it, that's it.
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Nov 22, 2016 08:55
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I had one of the welders use a cutoff wheel to basically bisect the lug nut/stud and then snap off the halves. Ended up needing to remove the wheel, caliper, bracket, and rotor and the stud fell right out. How soon do I need to replace this flange? Is 4 out of 5 lug nuts super dangerous to drive on?
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Nov 22, 2016 20:33
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I finished changing the center diff bearings in the 04 WRX and installing the Short shift kit from Jamal. No more awful noise coming from the transmission. Which bearing do think was causing the most noise? 
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Nov 22, 2016 23:29
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