|
I'll throw coppers in it now for testing purposes. Once I get out of the woods I may switch.
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 18:30
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 15:36 |
|
|
Partly because of recent activity in this thread I'm actually philosophizing about my V70 timing belt. According to the service book it was changed together with the water pump at about 100K. 200K is many years away the way I drive, but I assume age also factors in to the shape of the belt. A new-ish belt would potentially increase the sales price a great deal should I choose to sell the car. Also, a timing belt is my white whale of auto mechanics. I feel that if I could successfully change my belt, I could muster up the courage to do just about anything after that. This is probably an untrue assessment of my actual abilities, but there you have it. I'm thinking I might just go for a belt replacement when the summer comes, even if it's not strictly necessary at this time. I've been watching the youtubes and the procedure seems entirely doable, even if more complicated than any repair I've ever attempted on a car. I might ignore to replace the water pump, or not. Haven't seen a video of that procedure yet so I have no idea of how gnarly it is, or how common it is for old pumps to fail or leak or whatever else goes wrong with them. I'm assuming that a water pump won't fail from age-induced dry rot like a rubber belt might though.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 18:34
|
|
|
Terrible Robot posted:Apologies to Ionn for being a toolbag to him the other night, it was uncalled for. No worries, I have thick enough internet skin. You were also probably more right than wrong anyway. Invalido posted:I might ignore to replace the water pump, or not. Haven't seen a video of that procedure yet so I have no idea of how gnarly it is, or how common it is for old pumps to fail or leak or whatever else goes wrong with them. I'm assuming that a water pump won't fail from age-induced dry rot like a rubber belt might though. Water pumps usually fail when the bearing goes and starts making an awful racket or leaking coolant. You can check for excessive bearing play or "roughness" by wiggling the pulley (with the serpentine belt off), but it might not say much about remaining life; It can sometimes tell you if it's bad, but it will not tell you if it's good. If you got the timing belt off (together with idler + tensioner), the water pump is relatively easy to change while you're there, and cheap enough that there is little reason not to (much less than the cost of the timing belt bits). Biggest difficulty with the water pump itself is just having patience to clean mating surfaces properly, when you're eager to start reassembling all the things you've just taken apart. If you can do timing belt, you can and should do water pump. I've only changed/installed timing belts on modern Volvo engines with them out of the car, and then it is pretty simple if you have decent documentation (of which there is plenty) since you can see and get to everything. A lot of steps, but none of them are really that hard. In the car, it's conversely to a large degree a matter of access, cleanliness and visibility. My mechanical white wale? Rebuilding a gearbox. I've taken one somewhat apart and gotten it back together, and it's still seems like magic. I also have a slight fear of drum brakes and carburettors.
|
|
#
?
Nov 21, 2016 20:11
|
|
|
Invalido posted:Partly because of recent activity in this thread I'm actually philosophizing about my V70 timing belt. You are correct, for your car the rule is 105k or every seven years. As for the water pump, do it. Very little downside to changing it, huge downside if it fails. It's not hard, here's some pics of the engine out of the car. Just 7 bolts and clean off the surface.   Also some Volvo porn for the thread. Colorado has had an unseasonably warm November, second warmest on record since the 1800s. I took this last week. 
LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 07:36 on Nov 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 07:34
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:You are correct, for your car the rule is 105k or every seven years. Alrighty. It's settled in my mind. When warmer weather comes I'll do it, God willing. I'll probably do a compression test first to make sure the engine is otherwise sound as far as I can assess it. Brother Ionn suggests it might be worthwile for someone like me to remove the hub and/or strut assembly and whatever else is in the way for better access through the wheel well - is that worth doing in your opinion? I've taken those bits apart before when I changed the shocks so they don't scare me much anymore. Replace the serpentine belt at the same time I assume? Looking at my usual German parts site, there's an unreasonable number of different belt+pump kits with brand names written in all caps: GATES, SKF, BOSCH, HELLA, CONTITECH, INA, AIRTEX, HEPU, GK, OPTIMAL, BILSTEIN, RUVILLE, MAPCO, TRISCAN... Anyone in particular to get or to avoid?
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 08:10
|
|
|
Invalido posted:Brother Ionn suggests it might be worthwile for someone like me to remove the hub and/or strut assembly and whatever else is in the way for better access through the wheel well That's a decision you'll make when you get there. Some of the stuff involved in a timing belt job is done through the wheel well, and if something there is in any way obstructing you, it's probably worth the couple of minutes to get rid of it. Improves quality of life when getting to stuff in awkward spots. Especially if you don't have the car on a lift. I think all the suspension stuff is far enough back in relation to the engine that it won't matter much though. Same thing goes for stuff on that side of the engine bay (coolant reservoir and whatnot). Don't need to be completely removed, but just unbolting and shuffling them over a few mm can make a lot of difference for someone not equipped with long slender monkey arms.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 10:22
|
|
|
Invalido posted:Looking at my usual German parts site, there's an unreasonable number of different belt+pump kits with brand names written in all caps: GATES, SKF, BOSCH, HELLA, CONTITECH, INA, AIRTEX, HEPU, GK, OPTIMAL, BILSTEIN, RUVILLE, MAPCO, TRISCAN... Anyone in particular to get or to avoid? Follow-up question: what's the factory brand? I have no history on this car, and it's got 147K miles on it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 14:43
|
|
|
If you get a kit with someones name on it, the individual parts are probably made by different companies anyway. If you're picky about brands, probably best to buy "a-la-carte". No idea who the OEMs are on those bits though. If I were to get one, I'd go with SKF since that was what Volvo was originally spun off from.  Edit: Also, Dagen H, the complete lack of ¨s in your custom title is mildly annoying. ionn fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Nov 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 15:55
|
|
|
ionn posted:Edit: Also, Dagen H, the complete lack of ¨s in your custom title is mildly annoying. It wouldn't accept umlauted characters  
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 16:05
|
|
|
White lithium? ...Seriously? 
|
|
#
?
Nov 22, 2016 18:19
|
|
|
Invalido posted:Brother Ionn suggests it might be worthwile for someone like me to remove the hub and/or strut assembly and whatever else is in the way for better access through the wheel well - is that worth doing in your opinion? All you need to remove from the wheel well is the wheel. The fender liner has one nut holding it down in front of the axle, if you remove that there's actually a crease line in the liner so you can fold it forward and hold it with a vise grip to get access to the crank pulley area. That's also how you change the motor mount there. The serpentine belt is even more important than the timing belt, as when it fails it usually shreds and throws pieces into the crank timing pulley, which jumps the timing belt and also junks the engine. Change it and its tensioner if there are any signs of wear at all. I replace the belt and inspect the pulley every 25k, same interval I do the spark plugs. Pulley is usually changed every other belt.
|
|
#
?
Nov 23, 2016 19:00
|
|
|
Terrible Robot posted:Any android device running Torque should be able to pull any codes you might have, mine even does a good job pulling the special P1xxx manufacturer codes. It's also super nice to be able to monitor sensors while driving, especially since Volvo took away the boost gauge after '97. Get a cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter from amazon, I've had great experience with the Veepeak ones. Veepeak adapter ordered. Actron scanner is useless.
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2016 15:29
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:Veepeak adapter ordered. Actron scanner is useless. There is some funkiness with European models of 850 and i believe early v70s with regards to OBD2. My 96 850 2,5 10v has a OBD2 plug and is branded OBD2, but isn't actually OBD2 compliant. It is dependent on your engine managment system. Siemens uses some proprietary Volvo software that you need VOL-FCM on a computer to read. Bosch should be OBD2 compliant. It basically comes down to if your engine was available in the US market, where OBD2 was mandatory. If your second adapter doesn't work, take a look at this. http://www.jagrullar.se/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=34469
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2016 17:07
|
|
|
Humbug posted:From your username i guess you are from Sweden. No I'm not, sorry for the confusion 
|
|
#
?
Nov 25, 2016 17:14
|
|
|
Welp, it looks like a bad ETS...whether I let it idle or hold the pedal to the floor, it shows 20% throttle.
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2016 18:13
|
|
|
well, a week after i replace the brake booster for a vacuum leak, i have another one
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2016 18:20
|
|
|
All this timing belt talk...I'm still selling a brand new gates kit. $100 for a goon. http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/5842140360.html
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2016 18:54
|
|
|
No info from #1 O2 sensor?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2016 19:00
|
|
|
Hey volvgoons. 2007 v50 t5, I have a squealing from the front wheels for the first 100 yards I drive in the morning, then it goes away for the rest of the day. Its louder when I turn the wheel. It's getting more persistent and I think I heard it from the back wheel the other day too. Any thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Nov 28, 2016 20:23
|
|
|
sebmojo posted:Hey volvgoons. 2007 v50 t5, I have a squealing from the front wheels for the first 100 yards I drive in the morning, then it goes away for the rest of the day. Its louder when I turn the wheel. It's getting more persistent and I think I heard it from the back wheel the other day too. How are your brakes?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2016 06:10
|
|
|
Dagen H posted:No info from #1 O2 sensor? Mine is the same way, iirc the 1x2 is actually the front O2 on these cars.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2016 06:25
|
|
|
LloydDobler posted:How are your brakes? They're working fine afaict, no loss of power, unfortunately not savvy enough to tell from looking if there is something wrong with them. Is there something I should be looking for?
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2016 06:57
|
|
|
Recently got an '02 S80 2.9. Has some minor wear inside and out (no rust!) but otherwise in good condition. 130k miles. The dash cluster was fucky, but has been replaced. The text display has the messages "SRS Air Bag Urgent" (mechanic said air bags were fine, needs a sensor or something with the seatbelts) and "Bulb Failure Position Light" (no lights out, googling says maybe loose wiring on rear lights?). Have not had any issues on the road. It's the first car I've bought that I actually want to do more than bare bones maintenance on. I need to check what the PO had done, but what should I look out for? Anything I should get replaced before it becomes an issue? I only paid 1500 for the car so I don't want to dump a ton of money into it, but I feel like it has a lot of life left in it as long as I take care of it.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2016 17:25
|
|
|
sebmojo posted:They're working fine afaict, no loss of power, unfortunately not savvy enough to tell from looking if there is something wrong with them. Is there something I should be looking for? Common source of squeaks, especially near end of life. Might want a shop you trust to just check them real quick when you can. Also if you haven't done the power steering or ac belts in a while, do them. If they fail they usually slip behind the crank pulley which will cause your timing belt to slip and junk your engine. Common problem on your car. And can squeak when old and cold.
|
|
#
?
Nov 29, 2016 20:47
|
|
|
 here we see a rare example of a wild XC70, perhaps the only one of its kind to ever roll off tarmac  It longs for the world beyond, but a simple fence (and property ownership boundaries) holds it back
|
|
#
?
Dec 6, 2016 11:36
|
|
|
I remember reading a test in a Swedish car magazine of various terrain-capable-looking vehicles driving around off-road. Mostly generic SUVS that couldn't get anywhere. Only two vehicles that got a "pass" where the XC70 and Hyundai Santa Fe. This was 10 years or so ago, not sure if things have changed (my guess, not much).
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 09:12
|
|
|
Boring broken car story incoming Yesterday, the temperature started out @ -2F ...so of course the wife's car broke down on her drive to work in the morning. She called me from the side of the highway and said it started to lose power, couldn't maintain speed, and then died. I told her to keep trying to restart it while she was waiting for me to arrive. The car still wasn't running when I got there. I found that it cranks over just fine, but it wouldn't even try to sputter to life. The fuel gauge has never worked since we bought the car, so every 200 miles the tank gets filled religiously. The odometer was reading 194 and, with the ambient temperature, I couldn't rule out condensation in the tank icing things up. I put in 2 gallons of gas while on the side of the road but nothing changed even after a whole lot of cranking. Between the temperature & it being the last day of a snow-emergency, I had to wait 6 hours for a tow. When the car was finally dropped off in the drive-way it was probably the warmest time of the day at a whopping 8F. Of course, the battery was flat from having the flashers on, but after putting it on the charger---it fired right up. Great. I drove to the gas station and filled the tank, but on the drive back to the house I was able to induce the same symptoms my wife had described earlier. Under load the car hesitates and lacks power. It will rev well enough when on snow or out of gear, but under full load and mild acceleration it begins to act up. I ran to the parts store and picked up an ignition coil to replace the one on the car which is of unknown age. While changing it over I also discovered the contacts were corroded so I cleaned those as quickly and thoroughly as one would when the temperature is hovering around zero. I buttoned everything up just in time to take it for a test drive & swoop up the wife from work, proudly adding to the list of reasons why she married me. Scratch that. On the highway maintaining a steady 60mph, at almost the same place she broke down earlier, the car started to lose power. Putting the foot to the floor, or shifting in to neutral and revving, seemed to clear things up enough to get me there and back--but now I'm trying to diagnose what the trouble could be. I'm wagering a dying fuel pump not being able to keep up with the load but I don't have anything to test the fuel pressure output. Most likely I'll just throw parts at it until it's fixed because I am smart with my time and money like that. A fuel pump makes sense since its drat near rolled over 200k, but with my luck it's a failing sensor or something far easier to replace. Frigid temperatures continue through-out the weekend, and there is a family holiday gathering on Saturday. Blah
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 21:44
|
|
|
What year/model is it? I have a couple suggestions in mind but it's hard to be more specific without that info.
|
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 23:03
|
|
|
Sure; any ideas would be helpful. 1990 740GL. Non-turbo with the Rex/Regina system. Edit; I should add that it hasn't thrown any codes since all this has started. stone soup fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Dec 14, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 14, 2016 23:43
|
|
|
I would have went with coil too, but if there was corrosion on the lead from coil to the distributor, I would strongly suspect that wire is toast. Are they of unknown vintage? Is the spark good? If it is I'd want to check fuel rail pressure and make sure the fuel pressure regulator is working correct; in my 940 the failure mode is to just bleed off fuel pressure. Fuel pump relay would be worth checking; I don't have any reference stuff handy but it's probably a direct swap with other relays; iirc it's the fan relay for that model? Failing all that the crank sensor? Radio suppression ? Don't even know if your 740 has those, but I'm pretty sure anything injector or sensor related would have set a code. Good luck; winter wrenching sucks, but those are all pretty quick to check!
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 05:40
|
|
|
Car is a 2004 V70. I've been bad about fixing the issue because expense/might not be the issue, but anyways... ABS started failing with the yellow warning, then it started giving me the BRAKE FAILURE STOP IMMEDIATELY warning, and then the dashed-out trip meter with no progression on the odometer. It drives and stops fine, just no cruise control. Last week we get below freezing for the first time since the problems happened, and all the dummy lights were out, speedo and odometer work fine. The dummy lights eventually come back on, I'm guessing once the engine has time to heat up the engine bay enough. Would you point to this as 'definitely the BCM' or something else that needs fixing?
|
|
#
?
Dec 15, 2016 19:57
|
|
|
I guess it could be possible that one or more broken wheel speed sensors could cause something like that (not sure how the BCM acts if that happens). If it's currently behaving well, at least that's easy to test by just disconnecting and see if it causes the same issue.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2016 12:31
|
|
|
Slim Pickens posted:Car is a 2004 V70. I've been bad about fixing the issue because expense/might not be the issue, but anyways... It could be the DIM or CEM but I'd suspect the brake module or something in the brake system first.
|
|
#
?
Dec 16, 2016 18:35
|
|
|
Anybody here own a v50? I'm really liking them but unfortunately can't find any with a manual, all automatics. They seem like a lot of car for the money used as long as they don't start falling apart after 100k.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 01:44
|
|
|
The manuals are out there, they tend to get posted in the swedespeed non-affiliated thread because of enthusiast desirability. If you seriously shop you should follow that thread daily. There was a white 2010 manual AWD R-design in florida posted there on 12/19 but apparently it's been snapped up because the link is now dead. One of my best friends had one for several years and they loved it and now miss it. They unloaded it when it developed an electrical gremlin but I think it could have been fixed if they were motivated. Pretty drat reliable little cars as far as I've heard.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 03:12
|
|
|
So if I can find one with a manual I'm golden? Looks like the automatics are the weak link in these cars:some volvo webpage posted:So if you are enticed by the low resale prices on these otherwise high quality cars, but are wondering why they are so cheap, this is why. Be sure to be extra careful when gauging the quality of the transmission, and make sure the seller knows what you are talking about when you mention valve body servo updates. If not, run. Run like hell. You may need to install an entirely new valve body soon. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 05:47
|
|
|
The automatic shouldn't be a dealbreaker, my 2000 V70R has the same transmission and it's still trucking along with 212K on the odo. If you test drive one that shifts well, change the fluid and it should be good to go for a while. Volvo had some teething troubles in the first couple years of the cars that used them but they were mostly ironed out by the time the S40/V50 came around. I have a 2006 V50 T5 AWD with a manual and I enjoy it, for the most part - the handling, steering feel, and braking performance are the best I've experienced in a Volvo and the interior has comfortable seats and great ergonomics. The only things I have carps about are the gearing of the transmission and the cost and lifespan of some parts. As far as the manual transmission goes, first gear is extremely short and it feels like there's a big gap between the ratios of first and second, so it's hard to accelerate smoothly if you rush that shift. I've had the car for six months now and I still can't nail it 100% of the time. I'm glad I found one with a manual but I honestly don't think I'd miss it if I'd gone with an auto. As for replacement parts, the heater core in these cars is about $400 from the dealer (which seems absurdly expensive to me) and there isn't a trustworthy aftermarket option. Mine is leaking enough to fog the windshield after a few weeks and I'm putting off replacing it until it gets worse because of the cost. Seems like it should have lasted for more than 113K miles, but I have no idea whether the coolant was flushed regularly. The AC compressor is also growly and the clutch doesn't engage in really hot weather (think 85F+) so that's on my list to replace eventually too - the clutch is a known issue but I bet any cars in FL will already have had it dealt with. More generally, it seems like the engines are pretty bulletproof if you keep the cooling system in order and replace the timing belt on time. The expansion tank, the lower rad hose, and the thermostat housing all fail due to old/brittle plastic and there isn't a low coolant light, so taking care of it preventatively is a must.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 06:09
|
|
|
You make a pretty good argument for the automatic. This is the car I want to check out and take for a drive: http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/cto/5908250186.html Seems like such a great deal even if the slushbox took a poo poo right away.....Assuming replacements don't break the bank. [e] Whats the timing belt interval on these? Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Dec 23, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 06:21
|
|
|
120k or 10 years I think. Should do it right away on that car, but it's not terribly hard. On the other hand it is a hell of a lot easier with the engine out of the car. I think you will have some "support engine on a jack while you remove the passenger side motor mount" to do. I always told myself if I buy a P1 car (C30, S40, V50, C70) that I'd add a coolant level LED somehow, because that is one of the stupidest decisions Volvo has ever made. The engine blows the head gasket after a very very short time of running too hot, but let's save 30 cents per car and not have a sensor that we've had and still currently have in every other model since the early 90's. Thanks Ford. This is by the way the most Ford influenced Volvo there is. It is cross platform with the Focus and Mazda3 of that era. The good news is that this means there are abundant performance parts for it. Like one of the first things you do if you buy a FWD P1 Volvo is put a Mazdaspeed 3 rear sway bar on it. That said, this summer I did an engine swap in an 07 C70 and it is an absolute pleasure to drive. If I wasn't so vested in my 03 C70 I seriously would have bought it off my dad and there would be a mod thread on it right now.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 06:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 15:36 |
|
|
Well hopefully this is worth it.....I've been wanting a wagon or hatch, but there hasn't been anything worth a poo poo around here lately. I've always liked the V50 and C30, the V50 seems like the perfect size for what i need, and I really do not want a loving CRV or RAV4 so it looks perfect. How is the performance of the T5? Is it reasonably inexpensive to get a bit more reliable power out of it?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 07:07
|
|