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Preoptopus posted:This is the kit that has saved my life and many of my friends. https://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-5483-Master-Flaring/dp/B00H2W0ZCW its a little finicky to get used to but works awesome and a lot better than the double bar style. Yes, you very much want this kit, or something like it. I have a much smaller version that just does 3/16 and 4.5mm, which probably covers all I'll ever do anyway, but it would be nice to have the wider selection. Combine it with some copper brake line and getting a perfect flare is easy mode.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:07
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That propane heater looks totally awesome. I feel like I'd have to be more careful with my combustible storage, but I guess it's no different than striking an arc and I'm not careful enough with that as-is.
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Nov 26, 2016 21:19
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n0tqu1tesane posted:With propane. I wonder how well that would do in my completely uninsulated garage? Above freezing would be nice so my s2k doesn't get cold 
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Nov 26, 2016 21:45
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I sometimes use a small (35,000 BTU) space heater in my garage when it gets properly brass monkeys, and it'll definitely take a double garage up to "uncomfortably warm" if you want it to.
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Nov 26, 2016 22:03
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fknlo posted:I wonder how well that would do in my completely uninsulated garage? Above freezing would be nice so my s2k doesn't get cold Have experience with this in Wisconsin winters. You will get swamp rear end before you-know it and have to turn it off.
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Nov 26, 2016 23:28
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clam ache posted:Preoptopus hit it right on the head. But you dont want that vice grip . There are locking adjustables that will make rusty nuts your gimp. And remember when flearing brake lines always put the fitting on first. ALWAYS PUT THE FITTING ON FIRST!!I!!! and dont feel bad about rounding off fittings. there cheap and every parts store carries them. Or if you know a mechanic they usually have some spares they can throw you. Could you link the locking adjustable you're referring to? I tried my locking stanley one, but it was too big for the space and just wouldn't get any grip from my angle. Is it a different tool? IOwnCalculus posted:Yes, you very much want this kit, or something like it. I have a much smaller version that just does 3/16 and 4.5mm, which probably covers all I'll ever do anyway, but it would be nice to have the wider selection. Awesome, thanks! Just bought that plus 25 feet of nickel copper brake line + fittings. Here's hoping that this job isn't too bad...
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Nov 27, 2016 05:26
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OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks--that is good to know! Saves me the frustration of screwing that up right off the bat. No that's the one I am thinking of. Its the one everyone on here raves over. I still haven't bought one because I have a small set of old usa made vice grips. there tiny curved toothy and grip anything rusted or not. I have two of them and use them in tandem for rusted compression fittings and it gets them loose. Link for clarification https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-85-6...justable+wrench
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Nov 27, 2016 05:41
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Nov 27, 2016 17:14
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puberty worked me over posted:All non-vented propane heaters have condensation issues rendering them largely useless. Propane/natural gas are still going to have more btus available and cheaper to run. Personally, if I had to run a line anyway, I'd run a NG line and either get a dehumidifier or crack the door every once in a while. Although if you want 240v run anyway for other reasons, that's different.
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Nov 27, 2016 17:45
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Whats the secret to no‐vent heaters? Catalysts?
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Nov 28, 2016 07:12
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Platystemon posted:Whats the secret to no‐vent heaters? No, its still an open flame. I don't know the eleven herbs and spices that make it work, but in principle it's optimized for more complete combustion. Most people don't run into problems unless they're using the heater as the primary heat source for an extended period or if you have what's called "unusually tight construction" (we'll get back to that in a moment). If you plan on regularly spending all day in your garage/workshop, then get a forced air heater with a heat exchanger (they're like a tiny furnace with no ductwork except for the exhaust). If you plan on going out for a couple hours a day with a few activity spikes while you finish a project, then water and other combustion products should have time to dissipate over time. Even if you're using it in a way that moisture buildup is a concern (in the winter, when most people are using humidifiers anyway), an anti-ventfree heater website I just looked up said a big 30k-40k BTU heater can put out up to a third of a gallon of water per hour. Lets call that 2.65 pints per hour or 63.36 pints per day. So an off the shelf 70 pint dehumidifier from Home Depot/Lowes would take water out of the air faster than it was being produced. The other issue is "unusually tight construction" which means your home doesn't breathe the same way a normal house does. The only person I've ever encountered where this would be a concern had their house cut into a hill so the whole thing was underground except the door. Other cases would be if Mike Holmes built your house (sprayfoam insulation everywhere  ) or if you live in a decommissioned submarine.Really, almost all people who have issues with a vent-free heater are using it inside their home to replace their furnace instead of what they're designed for which is supplemental heating of a living space or somewhere you don't spend all your time, like the garage or a workshop. tl;dr - I don't have an answer to your question, but wanted to talk more about heaters 
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Nov 28, 2016 09:25
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So can I use it in an igloo or not?
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Nov 28, 2016 11:16
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The Door Frame posted:So can I use it in an igloo or not? Yes. Shut it off when you go to work clubbing seals or whatever and any condensation that formed will refreeze to replace what melted while it was running.
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Nov 28, 2016 11:42
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bolind posted:Guess what I just got? I have a bicycle, a single speed, which came geared too low. I got a new freewheel for it, but couldn't immediately get the old one off, so I just put it on the other side (both sides of the rear hub are threaded) and rode my merry way. This is probably five years ago. At one point I tried to get the old one off, but couldn't. It didn't really hinder my biking, so it's just been sitting there. Yesterday, I was wrenching on said bicycle a bit, and I decided to give it a go. With the one meter cheater bar, no less. And I still couldn't get it off. I mulled over that for a bit, until I remembered my newest purchase. The Makita brapped that fucker off in not even five baps. gently caress I love that impact.
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Nov 28, 2016 14:06
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bolind posted:I have a bicycle, a single speed, which came geared too low. I got a new freewheel for it, but couldn't immediately get the old one off, so I just put it on the other side (both sides of the rear hub are threaded) and rode my merry way. This is probably five years ago. At one point I tried to get the old one off, but couldn't. It didn't really hinder my biking, so it's just been sitting there. What model is that? I'm looking for Christmas ideas for myself. That's super compact.
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Nov 28, 2016 17:09
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It's called DTW281 (+ some more letters depending on kit, naked one is DTW281Z) in Europe. I think it's called something else in the US - my best guess is XWT02Z And yes, it is super compact. The "engine housing" would probably fit in a can of coke.
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Nov 28, 2016 20:47
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Looking at jumping on the Wera screwdriver hype train, what's the difference between the two options on Amazon here? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001NQQCM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 The sizes are very slightly different, and the more expensive option has the hexagonal blades/bolster, but is there something else different that I'm missing that makes them almost double the price?
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Nov 28, 2016 21:39
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donut posted:Looking at jumping on the Wera screwdriver hype train, what's the difference between the two options on Amazon here? Far as I can tell that's it? I'd just snag the cheaper ones as they still have the lasertip, they're awesome screwdrivers
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Nov 28, 2016 22:07
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The hex shank is a great feature because you can use a wrench to turn it.
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Nov 28, 2016 22:59
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i bought the yellow handled set cause they are rated to be hammered on
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Nov 28, 2016 23:09
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bolind posted:It's called DTW281 (+ some more letters depending on kit, naked one is DTW281Z) in Europe. I think it's called something else in the US - my best guess is XWT02Z When my Ingersoll Rand Cordless Impact finally gives up the ghost (IE: Batteries cost as much as the gun...) I'll buy this to replace it.
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Nov 28, 2016 23:46
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Ive been in the process of moving but I needed a pry bar. First thing that Ive found the Weras to not be good at. The amount of flex was enough to tell me I should wait till I get my beater screw drivers.
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Nov 29, 2016 02:07
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bolind posted:I have a bicycle, a single speed, which came geared too low. I got a new freewheel for it, but couldn't immediately get the old one off, so I just put it on the other side (both sides of the rear hub are threaded). I've got that exact same impact, and used it for the exact same thing, because getting the rear cassette off without a chain wrench is impossible. Also great for popping off motorcycle sprockets where you'd have to otherwise awkwardly brace the bike while cranking. And mower blade nuts, where it's hard to hold the blade while turning the nut. Best part is running on lug nuts, with the adjustable speed/torque, I can zip em on without worrying about overtightening them.
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Nov 29, 2016 02:59
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Broke the crankshaft on my M12 ratchet. Usually I'm such a frail, weak human that I never break anything. Happily the part was available locally for $8.
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Nov 29, 2016 05:44
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If I want to compress coil springs without buying a commercial grade tool, yet don't feel like having a coil spring sticking out of my forehead, are there any specific designs that are safer than others? The ones with only a hook on each end seem a bit dangerous.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:15
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Why not get a commercial grade loaner from the corner parts store?
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Nov 29, 2016 20:23
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eddiewalker posted:Why not get a commercial grade loaner from the corner parts store? Unfortunately there are no such options available where I live. 
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Nov 29, 2016 20:27
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MrOnBicycle posted:If I want to compress coil springs without buying a commercial grade tool, yet don't feel like having a coil spring sticking out of my forehead, are there any specific designs that are safer than others? The ones with only a hook on each end seem a bit dangerous. What kind of car/situation? I can pull the front springs on my Nova without any sort of compressor. Just gotta keep the control arms under... control.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:32
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MrOnBicycle posted:If I want to compress coil springs without buying a commercial grade tool, yet don't feel like having a coil spring sticking out of my forehead, are there any specific designs that are safer than others? The ones with only a hook on each end seem a bit dangerous. just buy the harbor freight one, use it for 4 or 8 coils and recycle it when you're done.
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Nov 29, 2016 20:42
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:What kind of car/situation? I can pull the front springs on my Nova without any sort of compressor. Just gotta keep the control arms under... control. Alfa Romeo MiTo, and I might need to change the strut mounts in the future. Watched some videos on same platform vehicles and they compress the spring. Maybe using 3 clamps that have 2 clamps on each side would be safe? Compressing each one in small steps? Edit: Appears to be a MacPherson setup. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 29, 2016 |
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Nov 29, 2016 20:48
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1) FRONT TOWARD ENEMY 2) BRAP BRAP on the nut.
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Nov 29, 2016 21:02
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MrOnBicycle posted:Alfa Romeo MiTo, and I might need to change the strut mounts in the future. Watched some videos on same platform vehicles and they compress the spring. Oh yeah, for struts you'll need compressors as far as I know. Unless you've got one of those fancy-dancy wall-mounted ones, that is. Seconding buying some cheapos if rentals aren't available.
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Nov 29, 2016 21:10
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Oh yeah, for struts you'll need compressors as far as I know. Unless you've got one of those fancy-dancy wall-mounted ones, that is. Seconding buying some cheapos if rentals aren't available. Cool. I found some more videos, seems like only a slight compression is needed anyway.
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Nov 29, 2016 21:14
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Spring compressor, shming compressor. not me, nor do I advocate doing this.
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Nov 30, 2016 01:20
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Looks like a fun spin-off of Jenga where everyone takes a turn with the side cutters.
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Nov 30, 2016 02:44
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Just heat it with a torch till the ties lose strength.
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Nov 30, 2016 02:50
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I wonder if you just left it out if it would slowly plink plink away until it was fully extended or if one would go and the others would spontaneously explode.
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Nov 30, 2016 03:04
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Powershift posted:I wonder if you just left it out if it would slowly plink plink away until it was fully extended or if one would go and the others would spontaneously explode. It would be an accelerating failure. First one, then two, then four, eight, etc... all with decreasing intervals. FUN!
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Nov 30, 2016 03:08
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Platystemon posted:Just heat it with a torch till the ties lose strength. Its the way they used to make lowriders. That or get a bunch of big dudes together have them sit in the car and lower it then put chains around the springs to keep it low. In tool news I want a set of torx under t7 but no stores local to me have them in stock. Does anyone know of a place online i could by a set. preferably with handles.
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Nov 30, 2016 03:23
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clam ache posted:Its the way they used to make lowriders. That or get a bunch of big dudes together have them sit in the car and lower it then put chains around the springs to keep it low. My local Ace stocks them. Not cheap or super high quality, but I was surprised that they had them.
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Nov 30, 2016 04:35
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