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Hey about leaf chat... It is true that well-mulched leaves are a great source of organic matter for your lawn, and can even provide enough nitrogen to reduce fertilizer needs. The caveats are that they need to be pretty well mulched, and the mechanism that turns mulched leaves into humus is microbial activity in the soil, which drops off as it gets cold. If you have a lot of mature trees, this means you have to stay on top of the mulching (like every 2 or 3 days during peak leafocalypse) and you still run the risk of choking out the lawn (a couple different factors) until spring when soil temps rise and the leaf cover gets processed and disappears. Its also not very clean looking from fall through spring. That being said, if you have a lawn tractor and want to get rid of leaves, the absolute best purchase you can make is a Cyclone Rake, a tow-behind leaf vac. Design, construction, functionality, and customer support are all amazing. You need a lot of the accessories to make it really shine so don't be fooled by the base prices, but consider the before and after for my particular lawn (1/2 acre clear area, lots of mature oak and maple). BEFORE mulch every 2 or 3 days for 3 weeks, always running the risk of rain or drifts of leaves making the mulch too thick to process with the mower OR spend 10-12 hours each weekend for 5 weeks blowing piles onto tarps and hauling to the woods AFTER 3 hours every week or two including blowing out corners, mulch beds, perimeter, and also blowing out dumping area to make room for more loads. Source: I did the various befores for 4 years and bought a Cyclone Rake Commercial Pro this September, went in on it with 2 other guys in the neighborhood. We have no problem getting all three lawns done in one day each week or two. It's a delete button for leaves.
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Dec 1, 2016 16:43
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I was just quoted $1400 for a basic 6yr warranty gas water heater from the company State. Apparently going for the higher quality 10yr warranty one. Does that sound right? Googling around is giving me much lower quotes.
Rurutia fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 23:03
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Rurutia posted:I was just quoted $1400 for a basic 6yr warranty gas water heater from the company State. Apparently going for the higher quality 10yr warranty one. Does that sound right? Googling around is giving me much lower quotes. Even with installation included that sounds like a lot if it is a straight replacement of an existing heater.
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Dec 1, 2016 23:32
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Rurutia posted:I was just quoted $1400 for a basic 6yr warranty gas water heater from the company State. Apparently going for the higher quality 10yr warranty one. Does that sound right? Googling around is giving me much lower quotes. I just paid $1325 for a 6yr one installed (in NJ)
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Dec 2, 2016 01:01
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Rurutia posted:I was just quoted $1400 for a basic 6yr warranty gas water heater from the company State. Apparently going for the higher quality 10yr warranty one. Does that sound right? Googling around is giving me much lower quotes. Do they have to hand carry the thing up a small mountain to reach your house? That's the only way I can see that price being competitive.
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Dec 2, 2016 06:32
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Eugh we checked around and every other place is around the same and they only carry State. We're going to go with this 1400 one since at least they offer Rheem. I don't get why home maintenance poo poo is so much more expensive here than the col implies.
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Dec 2, 2016 13:38
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Had two ancient water heaters that were hooked up in parallel to feed both tap and hydronic replaced with one 80 gallon fast recover gas unit specifically designed for dual use with hydronic: $1700 for everything. Included removing all the old stuff and the old wood ( ) pedestal, a ton of replumbing, and reworking the exhaust.
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Dec 2, 2016 14:17
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Rurutia posted:Eugh we checked around and every other place is around the same and they only carry State. We're going to go with this 1400 one since at least they offer Rheem. Did you check with home depot for a full installation quote? A 50 gallon 6 year Rheem gas water heater by itself costs about $500, so someone is charging you almost $1000 to install that water heater. That is definitely not correct - replacing an existing gas water heater is maybe a 2 hour job on a bad day, and installation should be more in the $200-$400 range.
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Dec 2, 2016 15:49
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Flooring Chat: What's the real deal between solid hardwood and engineered flooring? I've read varying articles that say one is cheaper and more durable, but others say vis versa. The only consistent things are that engineered wood can be installed on concrete floors, and doesn't swell as much. I also stopped by a local flooring place yesterday and the guy seemed to push the engineered flooring. But I'm always skeptical if it's a margins thing, ease of installation, etc. My wife and I are closing on a place next week, and I'd really like to get the floors in a few rooms changed over from the the ancient carpet to hardwood floors. The house was built in approximately 1900 and definitely has a farm board subfloor, but I'm not sure if there's a hardwood floor between the subfloor (visible from the basement) and carpet. I'll find out on Tuesday as one of the first things I plan to do is rip up a corner of the rug to see what we have. If there's a floor I can refinish, then great. If not, I'd like to get rolling with installation estimates. We'd probably be looking at wider boards, like 5", to stick with the rest of the house. We have around 450 sqft I'd like to refinish, split between two rooms and a hallway. If anyone has any idea what a reasonable cost for labor would be that would be great too. I'm in Eastern PA for reference.
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Dec 2, 2016 16:08
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LogisticEarth posted:Flooring Chat: What's the real deal between solid hardwood and engineered flooring? I've read varying articles that say one is cheaper and more durable, but others say vis versa. The only consistent things are that engineered wood can be installed on concrete floors, and doesn't swell as much. I also stopped by a local flooring place yesterday and the guy seemed to push the engineered flooring. But I'm always skeptical if it's a margins thing, ease of installation, etc. Hardwood will last basically forever, and can be refinished time and again. My hardwood floors are a hundred years old, just for reference, and I know there are tons of places with flooring older than that. But you're going to pay more for the better quality. Engineered floors on the other hand, are a thin veneer of hardwood or laminate over top of a core of sawdust and glue. Once that thin veneer dents or gets worn down, it's time for new flooring. You might be able to refinish it once or twice, but there's really not much to sand down before you hit the core. Should be a lot cheaper though, but much less resilient. Chances are in your house, there's the original hardwood right under the carpets and it just needs sanded down and refinished. In older construction, your wood floors are the subfloor, the planks are laid right over the joists and stretch out underneath the walls. Newer construction will typically have joists, then osb subfloor, then your hardwood or carpet or what have you, with baseboard trim to cover the gap between the edge of the flooring and the walls. If you feel up to it, flooring is really easy to do yourself. Just measure the boards to length and cut them on a miter saw, and snap them in place. If you're refinishing your old flooring, it might be worth hiring someone to do that, or you can rent the big drum sander and go to town yourself. Just tear up the old carpet and voila. In places like the kitchen though, it might just be worthwhile to put new laminate down over the wood, since that would be more moppable and water resistant. Rurutia posted:I was just quoted $1400 for a basic 6yr warranty gas water heater from the company State. Apparently going for the higher quality 10yr warranty one. Does that sound right? Googling around is giving me much lower quotes. I've you've got basic tools, a desire to diy and don't mind watching a few youtube videos, it's really not that hard to do yourself. I'd buy something like this 12 year ultra high efficiency water heater for half that price. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rheem-Pe...E40U0/204697784 Worst case, shouldn't be more than a couple hundred to get a plumber to swap it out for you.
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Dec 2, 2016 17:30
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Droo posted:Did you check with home depot for a full installation quote? A 50 gallon 6 year Rheem gas water heater by itself costs about $500, so someone is charging you almost $1000 to install that water heater. That is definitely not correct - replacing an existing gas water heater is maybe a 2 hour job on a bad day, and installation should be more in the $200-$400 range. Agree. If it's just replacing an existing gas unit it should be fairly straightforward. The hardest part is getting the drat thing to where it's going to live, which is obviously going to vary. Where are you located, Droo? Some place where labor or parts are artificially high?
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Dec 2, 2016 17:41
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Droo posted:Did you check with home depot for a full installation quote? A 50 gallon 6 year Rheem gas water heater by itself costs about $500, so someone is charging you almost $1000 to install that water heater. That is definitely not correct - replacing an existing gas water heater is maybe a 2 hour job on a bad day, and installation should be more in the $200-$400 range. This plumber comes highly recommended and he claims that the water heaters from home depot are worse quality than the ones he gets. We asked him for a model number so I'm going to verify that today when he gets it to us.
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Dec 2, 2016 17:44
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OSU_Matthew posted:Hardwood will last basically forever, and can be refinished time and again. My hardwood floors are a hundred years old, just for reference, and I know there are tons of places with flooring older than that. But you're going to pay more for the better quality. Already planning on vinyl or laminate in the kitchen. We have delusions of a larger renovation in the kitchen when we save up a bit more, so I don't want to break the bank in flooring there. The guy I talked to also was talking up engineered vinyl tile in place of vinyl sheet flooring, saying it was essentially the same cost and easier to install. But he also said something about the underlayment for sheet flooring costing $50/board, which...seemed high. I've seen other demonstrations where they pop down a 1/4" underlayment board and install over that. There's no way that's $50 a sheet. Considering I have a level floor in the kitchen, doni really need some super robust underlayment for vinyl? Back to the hardwood, I'm leaning towards solid wood, if only for the fact that it could stick around for a while. I've read that higher quality engineered boards can be finished just as much as solid nowadays, since they have thicker veneers than older/cheaper products. I'd love to install the floors myself, if possible. I have the tools (save those convenient floorboard nail guns) and carpentry experience. My wife is kinda leaning towards hiring someone just so it gets done ASAP. We have a long list of projects for the house and a kid on the way. I also want to put in a half bath in a large closet on the first floor, which is a whole other topic...
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Dec 2, 2016 17:52
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We put in engineered in the dining/office and kitchen. We were okay with the durability/price, because we only plan to be in this house 3 more years. There are two full boxes of spare pieces from the same batches for repairs of needed.
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Dec 2, 2016 19:08
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I installed about 700 sq ft of solid hardwood myself when we bought our place. We settled on pre-finished solid hardwood because: solid is good for resale, it can be refinished, the price was very good. We got solid hickory made by Bruce, a subsidiary of Armstrong flooring. I think it was about $1.39/sq ft at Home Depot. I had never installed flooring and found the process fairly straight forward. I think the actual installation took me 4 days. I had a little help but did most of the work alone. I found the photos I took during install if you want to see them: Before I started. Blue carpet from the 90's and some beat up engineered flooring.  Ripped up the engineered wood. You can see the layers- it is basically plywood with a veneer on top.  First step was to lay 1/2" plywood over the top of the subfloor. I had to do this because the direction I wanted the planks to run was parallel to the floor joists. Cut sheets to fit and run about 10,000 screws in to each one.  If you're going to paint, now's a good time. Next step was to lay roofing paper. Bought a cool stapler to staple it down. Since this room was large, I had to start laying the floor in the center and work outward. If the room was smaller, I could have started along one wall. I rented a flooring nailer for this. Actually installing the flooring was fairly simple, just repetitive and very tough on my back.  Pano showing the floor mostly installed. I think it was 3 solid days of nailing, something like 15,000 floor nails. Finished at like 9:30 at night, leaving just enough time to haul rear end to Home Depot and return the nailer on time.  Trim installed, before caulking and filling holes. This is a whole other ball of wax.  I'd probably do this myself again. I saved a ton of money doing it myself and I enjoy this kind of project
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Dec 2, 2016 19:44
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Those are some really awesome project pictures. What was the total cost for the project if you don't mind my asking? Were you given a quote before deciding to DIY?
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Dec 2, 2016 20:00
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^^That looks awesome! You did a great job getting that installed!LogisticEarth posted:Already planning on vinyl or laminate in the kitchen. We have delusions of a larger renovation in the kitchen when we save up a bit more, so I don't want to break the bank in flooring there. The guy I talked to also was talking up engineered vinyl tile in place of vinyl sheet flooring, saying it was essentially the same cost and easier to install. But he also said something about the underlayment for sheet flooring costing $50/board, which...seemed high. I've seen other demonstrations where they pop down a 1/4" underlayment board and install over that. There's no way that's $50 a sheet. Considering I have a level floor in the kitchen, doni really need some super robust underlayment for vinyl? If you've got the scratch, might as well hire someone and just get it taken care of, especially if you've got so much other stuff going on at the same time. I'd focus on getting the big projects out of the way before you move in, as well as stuff like painting. Consider with the kitchen, that you'll want to install flooring that you can easily add to when you remove/move cabinets during remodeling. A continuous sheet product is going to be more difficult to patch than some sort of tongue and groove/click lock type flooring. I recently tore out a few cabinets to install a permanent dishwasher and move my fridge, and best thing I could come up with on my flooring in the kitchen was to cut some plywood to fill the gap so it's level. It's underneath everything that I put in there so it's not noticeable, but it should be an upfront consideration to plan for. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 2, 2016 20:38
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So the water heater he's using is the Rheem Professional Classic Series: Atmospheric (PROG50-38N RH60). It's a 50gal capacity at 38k BTU. It looks like it costs $800-1000 online? I'm not sure, it's a plumber exclusive. I'm not sure how this is different/better than their Performance Platinum line which has 50gal capacity at 40k BTU and is available at home depot for $654.00... The spec sheets are pretty imprenetrable for me in terms of figuring out the difference... I gathered that both are self cleaning. The pro one has a energy factor of 0.6, the home depot one has an energy factor of 0.62. Main benefit of the pro seems to be the first hour recovery, the pro line is 91 gallons, the perf line is 71 gallons. All Rheem says about their Pro line is: quote:Classic™ Series Spec Sheets - Plumber: http://cdn.globalimageserver.com/fetchdocument-rh.aspx?name=professional-classic-atmospheric-professional-classic-atmospheric-naeca- Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/d4/d48b2ad8-6e70-472f-9299-7da75b0db2e5.pdf Eugh. edit Looks like it was sold on Amazon for ~$500: http://camelcamelcamel.com/Rheem-PROG50-38N-RH58-Professional-Residential/product/B00HRTZM3W Rurutia fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 2, 2016 20:45
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LogisticEarth posted:Already planning on vinyl or laminate in the kitchen. We have delusions of a larger renovation in the kitchen when we save up a bit more, so I don't want to break the bank in flooring there. The guy I talked to also was talking up engineered vinyl tile in place of vinyl sheet flooring, saying it was essentially the same cost and easier to install. But he also said something about the underlayment for sheet flooring costing $50/board, which...seemed high. I've seen other demonstrations where they pop down a 1/4" underlayment board and install over that. There's no way that's $50 a sheet. Considering I have a level floor in the kitchen, doni really need some super robust underlayment for vinyl? I paid $3500 to have 1200 sqft refinished in Ohio. As other posters are said, there's definitely hardwood under your carpet, and it's probably salvageable. I would look and see if there's hardwood in the kitchen as well.
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Dec 2, 2016 21:05
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I helped my buddy put in solid hardwood over about 1000 sq ft over the course of a week of evenings. It's actually pretty easy if there's two of you. The hardest part is the cuts for corners and the last couple rows where you can't use a floor nailer.
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Dec 2, 2016 21:20
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Economic Sinkhole posted:I'd probably do this myself again. I saved a ton of money doing it myself and I enjoy this kind of project That looks really great! One question if you don't mind: I didn't really understand how the room size determines whether you could start from an edge or the center of the room
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Dec 2, 2016 21:47
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Those are some really awesome project pictures. What was the total cost for the project if you don't mind my asking? Were you given a quote before deciding to DIY? Thanks. I didn't get any quotes from contractors. It was about $1500 in materials. So probably around $3-5k for a professional job. I knew I was going to do this (and several other projects) myself because we just couldn't afford to do it any other way. In this house, before move in, we installed hardwood and new carpets (carpets were professionally installed), painted the whole house inside, replaced the trim throughout, added a pantry, replaced light fixtures and put in new appliances. QuarkJets posted:That looks really great! I don't have the exact figures handy, but the manufacturer required that this product be laid that way for expansion purposes. The individual planks are tongue-and-groove and are nailed through the tongue with a standard flooring nailer. Because the flooring expands in the direction of the tongue, there's a maximum width you can run the floor "one way" (tongues all facing one direction) before you risk expansion causing the floor to get wavy. So if your width is beyond this, you start in the center of the room and go out toward the walls to minimize this. You might also start in the middle if your walls aren't square & straight (i.e., every wall ever built).
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Dec 2, 2016 23:21
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OSU_Matthew posted:Hardwood will last basically forever, and can be refinished time and again. My hardwood floors are a hundred years old, just for reference, and I know there are tons of places with flooring older than that. But you're going to pay more for the better quality.
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Dec 3, 2016 01:27
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Rurutia posted:it's a plumber exclusive. Rurutia posted:I'm not sure how this is different/better than their Performance Platinum line which has 50gal capacity at 40k BTU and is available at home depot for $654.00... I'm not an expert, but I'd say the difference is that your plumber gets to pocket an extra $200+ in profit while being able to claim that you're getting a better product. I get that this plumber has come highly recommended, but even if he's amazing it's the equivalent of hiring a mechanic who rebuilds engines to change your oil. If you live close to Home Depot, get them to get you a quote for install. At the very least you can use it as bargaining power to bring the other guy's quote down if you're truly dead set on him doing it. My dad and I swapped out the gas hot water heater at our last house. Took maybe 4 hours, including a trip back to Lowes because the first one we get had a giant dent in it when we opened it up. He'd replaced at least one electric gas water heater about 20 years prior, and perhaps a gas one since, but that was the total of our hot water heater experience prior to that day.
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Dec 3, 2016 02:30
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This is just spitballing, but I'd wager the difference in the pro line is essentially better QA. Because a plumber's time and effort is more valuable, they don't want to gently caress with potentially defective units and, like most other businesses, are willing to spend a small bit more for a unit that has a smaller chance of being defective. John Q homeowner shouldn't worry about that though, since worst case they exchange the unit if it's doa, and it's far far less likely they'd run into such a unit than somebody installing a dozen a week. Their time and concentration isn't with the same dollar amount
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Dec 3, 2016 05:50
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The pro line also has 20 more gallons in first hour recovery in the same sized tank apparently. That implies some different insides. It might be priced higher because of that - new efficiency rules require a heat pump if the tank is over a certain size, but this model is just under the cutoff, with a beefed up heat source. So for people with larger older tanks this might be an attractive option, so they slap a big markup on it to get that sweet sweet profit.
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Dec 3, 2016 17:49
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The manufacturer offers plumbers an exclusive item that is a marginal "upgrade" over the consumer unit. This gives the plumber the ability to honestly claim the unit they sell (at a substantial markup) is better, which lets the plumber pocket more money. The manufacturer benefits, because it gets more plumbers to market their products (instead of a competitor's). The plumber benefits, because he gets to pocket more money while feeling OK about it because he sold the customer a better product. But the consumer loses. Because this arrangement is instead of the manufacturer offering the upgraded product for customers to buy directly, in a marketplace where pricing is more competitive. Instead, the consumer has to either buy a less-good product, or pay a plumber a large premium for the marginal upgrade. So, as a consumer, if you are most interested in your own interests, you should seek a similar product from a competing brand; or, buy the cheaper product, or even buy a more expensive product at competitive consumer-level pricing. (Of course, your plumber might not agree to install a part she didn't sell you, but I bet you can find a plumber who will.) If you are most interested in your plumber's best interests, feel free to pay them for the upgraded tank... and I'm not being facetious, we do need plumbers and plumbers need to make a living wage. Of course, they could instead offer consumer parts at consumer prices and just charge more per hour, but customers have a nasty tendency to shop on labor prices while ignoring parts markups, especially when they have no ability to look up the price that the plumber is paying for those parts. For my own part, when my very old but still works-fine hot water heater finally dies, my wife has already decided that we're definitely going tankless and will brook no argument. 
Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 00:01
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Leperflesh posted:If you are most interested in your plumber's best interests, feel free to pay them for the upgraded tank... and I'm not being facetious, we do need plumbers and plumbers need to make a living wage. This is basically what we decided. The difference would be a couple hundred and our finances are really healthy. Also we have a 4month old and we just didn't want to deal with lovely Home Depot customer service. We would've gone tankless if we were sure we'd be staying here for another 5 years, but we might be moving next year so
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Dec 6, 2016 01:12
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BeastOfExmoor posted:I'm not an expert, but I'd say the difference is that your plumber gets to pocket an extra $200+ in profit while being able to claim that you're getting a better product. I get that this plumber has come highly recommended, but even if he's amazing it's the equivalent of hiring a mechanic who rebuilds engines to change your oil. If you live close to Home Depot, get them to get you a quote for install. At the very least you can use it as bargaining power to bring the other guy's quote down if you're truly dead set on him doing it.
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Dec 7, 2016 16:39
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DJCobol posted:...they will usually take care of it without any extra cost. Oh, looks like we found why the water heater crapped out. Your PRV is all screwy, gonna need to fix that while we're here. I'm sure not all of them would do that, but still.
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Dec 8, 2016 02:31
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So I bought a house with a large detached garage. The garage has a small bathroom in it. The garage is insulated, but not heated. The bathroom has electric heat, but it's not actually in use (you go in the bathroom to turn it on, we don't leave it on). My question is, do I need to worry about pipes freezing over the winter?
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Dec 15, 2016 21:33
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Helpful Information: Where do you live?
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Dec 15, 2016 21:35
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Pennsylvania. I thought it went without saying that I lived somewhere it gets cold/snow in the winter. The low for today is 15.
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Dec 15, 2016 21:39
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In that case, yes, definitely. If you have the option to drain out the line independently of the rest of your house you can do that, otherwise, keep the heat on.
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Dec 15, 2016 22:51
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Moved in Monday night, got my first leak Thursday morning.  Nothing major, just some failing tile grout, but it was still a good intro to my new money pit. Also, gently caress cable companies. The cable box for my bare bones cable service does not need to be a TiVo unit that you can't turn off and always has a loud cooling fan running.
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Dec 16, 2016 02:39
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That reminds me, when we moved into our new home in May, we waited a couple months to get Comcast, just internet, no cable or phone. Wife and I picked up the router one day, got it home and connected it to the jack behind the entertainment center...nothing. Our room? Nothing. MIL's room? Nothing. Kids room? Nothing. I'm outside in the middle of the night with a flashlight trying to find the cable drop; the previous owners had cut the 3 cables where they enter the house and then painted over the motherfuckers. We had no connection whatsoever. Finally we get a tech out on July 4th. He runs a drop from the line behind our house over to the cables sticking out of the wall; nothing, not even after cleaning and connecting all 3 of the cables. He goes in the attic and everything seems fine but still nothing. In the end, he ends up having to run a new cable through the garage wall and near our front door to the router, so now I have a nice hole in my house and a loose cable in the garage, which is no biggie, but it looks lovely. We JUST got the cable buried a month ago after escalating to direct CS through our local rep.
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Dec 16, 2016 15:13
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Regarding cable drops: I have them all over my house but realistically, don't I just need one drop? I don't have cable television and never plan to get it. Is it dumb to remove the drops I dont need? They're mostly run on the exterior of my house and are distracting/ugly.
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Dec 16, 2016 16:13
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As in coax cable? Like for television? That poo poo is still around? Half joking, I removed a bunch of those outlets last time I painted, previous owner was obsessed with TV in every room I guess. I haven't used cable since 1997 I think and yes they are ugly.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:26
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HEY NONG MAN posted:Regarding cable drops: I have them all over my house but realistically, don't I just need one drop? I don't have cable television and never plan to get it. If it would be relatively easy to make the same run in the future I would pull them (e.g. it just pokes out a wall and goes around the exterior of your house and comes back in somewhere). If you have coax that runs through your house, and it seems like it would be impossible to make that pull without cutting some drywall, I would probably just leave it alone. Most cable and satellite TV uses coax, and you can always use it as a last resort to run ethernet over coax if you need a wired connection (EoC will be better than those goofy powerline things that some people buy). But most runs (especially ones that are on the outside of your house) are easy to redo if you ever needed to for some reason, so I wouldn't hesitate to clean that crap up.
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Dec 16, 2016 18:40
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New flood rate came in, canceled old policy and got the new one. $1300 refund check in the mail and dropping monthly escrow by over $100. Feels good.
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Dec 16, 2016 19:30
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