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Jerk McJerkface posted:That's perfect, it's even old works, so it's even easier to install. Thanks! Cables need to be UL listed. Often you just need to look on the cable sheath. It's usually printed on or pressed into the plastic. If you want to do it all in one box, then the line voltage needs to be separated from the low voltage. Feel free to look over your options for home theater boxes too. I like Arlington. They make tons of options for old work power and home theatre boxes. http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/home-theater-audio-video/ http://www.aifittings.com/catalog/specialty-boxes/ Just a heads up, most of the "TV bridge" power kits where you basically install an extension cord in the wall aren't actually code legal to use, including Arlington's. There are a few though. They all have a single outlet at the TV end and male prongs on the plate coming out near the floor. Then you plug a regular extension cord into that. For that reason, I'd suggest putting in a dedicated surge protector outlet instead. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 22:16
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What's the craigslist market like on skylights? I need to clear some space and I'm debating whether to sell or toss this thing. I took this old Velux QFS 156 skylight off my mom's hands that she wound up not using during renovations and it's about a decade old give or take a couple years at this point. The skylight itself is in really good condition, unused, and sold originally for like 250 or so, but is now discontinued. Could I get 20-50 bucks or so for it or am I better off just giving/throwing it away? I just wanna make sure I'm not wasting my time trying to pawn off garbage or that it isn't some rare collectible model that sells for millions among skylight connoisseurs.
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Dec 1, 2016 22:27
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I would pay someone a healthy sum if they could solve this whodunit for me. I've owned my home for about five years and during the summer I started to smell a musty scent when the AC was turned on. I thought it might just be AC related but was annoyed to find out it was still there when I turned on my furnace. I did some recon: 1) Took apart the AC unit and didn't find anything unusual. Nothing smelled weird 2) Hired a company to clean out the HVAC. I have three pets so there was a good amount of debris but they had cameras and I didn't see anything mildewy or moldy growing. They looked normal. 3) I changed the furnace filter and took the panel off to look inside the furnace. Nothing unusual. Additional information: The furnace unit is in the basement. There is no musty smell in the basement whatsoever. I keep it sparkling clean. There is no musty smell in the rest of the house, only when I turn on the AC or furnace. I called out a H+C guy and he couldn't find anything. One thing I have been able to diagnose is it definitely smells worse coming from some vents than others. Does anyone have any clue what this could be? I am willing to try anything.
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Dec 1, 2016 23:47
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When you say you took apart the AC, did you clean the evaporator coil on the AC? e: also, did you look at the condensate drain on the unit? Nothing funky there?
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Dec 1, 2016 23:56
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I actually had a professional company come and clean the AC unit but I didn't ask about any particular parts they did. The evaporator coil is in the actual unit correct? The condenser is usually attached to the furnace somewhere right?
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Dec 2, 2016 00:20
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kid sinister posted:Cables need to be UL listed. Often you just need to look on the cable sheath. It's usually printed on or pressed into the plastic. I'll just pull a whole new outlet. Figure it'll be a fun project.
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Dec 2, 2016 00:43
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faarcyde posted:I actually had a professional company come and clean the AC unit but I didn't ask about any particular parts they did. The evaporator coil is in the actual unit correct? The evaporator coil would be attached to one end of the furnace with the refrigeration pipes from the outdoor unit going to it. If it was properly cleaned, they should have opened the metal box surrounding it and sprayed a cleanser inside. It sounds like you have what is colloqually known as 'dirty sock syndrome', and it usually affects heat pumps because the coil never gets hot enough in the heat cycle to kill off any mold or bacteria that may have gotten in there. If you do have a heat pump, you might try running on gas (if dual fuel) or emergency heat only for a couple days to get he coil up to a temperature that could kill whatever might be inside.
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Dec 2, 2016 00:44
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tweet my meat posted:What's the craigslist market like on skylights? I need to clear some space and I'm debating whether to sell or toss this thing. Take it by a HFH ReStore. I doubt anyone is going to give you much for it. faarcyde posted:I would pay someone a healthy sum if they could solve this whodunit for me. Do you have a humidifier? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 01:33 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 2, 2016 01:31
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kid sinister posted:Take it by a HFH ReStore. I doubt anyone is going to give you much for it.
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Dec 2, 2016 02:11
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glynnenstein posted:Get a bucket and disassemble the trap underneath the sink. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=adJrVNJpf2M&t=135s If the clog is further down the line, you can get a drain snake at a hardware store if you want to tackle it yourself, otherwise call a plumber. Thanks for the advice, but since I was busy cooking Thanksgiving dinner for a large crowd I ended up calling a plumber (had to shop around because some places were asking $300). I got to watch the guy doing his work so I think I might have a handle on it now.  It appears my kitchen sink's drain is connected to the neighbor's kitchen sink drain. If I get one of those $20 drain snakes at the hardware store with the pistol grip and wheel crank, do you think I can do the same job myself in the future, or should I get a bigger one? The plumber left a leak in my drain trap. I want to fix it myself. I have plumbing tape. Should I get a pipe wrench or a strap wrench?
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Dec 2, 2016 02:32
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faarcyde posted:I would pay someone a healthy sum if they could solve this whodunit for me. My money is on something is leaking into an hvac section and there is mold chilling out in a pool in a duct and you are going to get legionella, sorry
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Dec 2, 2016 03:09
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Steve Yun posted:Thanks for the advice, but since I was busy cooking Thanksgiving dinner for a large crowd I ended up calling a plumber (had to shop around because some places were asking $300). I got to watch the guy doing his work so I think I might have a handle on it now. Hard to say. Those snakes aren't very long. It really depends on how far down the clog is. You don't need pipe tape under sinks for drains. You should be able to tighten those nuts by hand. Use channelock pliers at most.
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Dec 2, 2016 03:39
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Can anyone recommend a good steel mailbox? I'm losing two mailboxes a year to drunks running them over or knocking them down, I want to put something a little more hefty.
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Dec 2, 2016 04:04
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Korranus posted:Can anyone recommend a good steel mailbox? I'm losing two mailboxes a year to drunks running them over or knocking them down, I want to put something a little more hefty. I had a high-school calculus teacher that always had kids drive by and hit them with a bat so he filled one with cement and put it outside. Some kid broke his arm when he tried to hit it. That's one option.
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Dec 2, 2016 04:26
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Korranus posted:Can anyone recommend a good steel mailbox? I'm losing two mailboxes a year to drunks running them over or knocking them down, I want to put something a little more hefty. Running them over is a post problem not a box problem. See if you can put up a brick mailbox. You can also go be a nuisance at the city council meetings about the drunk driving menace in your street. Is there a local bar over serving people?
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Dec 2, 2016 05:02
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Yeah, I was gonna say a cement post instead of wooden one anchored securely in ground with mailbox slipped over it.
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Dec 2, 2016 05:04
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H110Hawk posted:Running them over is a post problem not a box problem. When I was a kid, we had high school hooligans swatting our mailbox with a baseball bat because of my older high school-age brother. So we got a steel cage around the mailboxes mounted to a steel pole set in concrete. That worked for awhile, until a drunk plowed into it. His car didn't hurt the pole or mailboxes too much... but his car did manage to rip the whole thing including concrete out of the ground and move it down the road 30 feet. I imagine it took awhile to unwrap his car from around the mailbox contraption too. Still, when we got it out and took it to a metal fabricator to straighten it out, we dug a new hole farther from the road and big enough to accommodate the concrete still attached. It's still there to this day. Then again, my brother graduated by this time. For the record, when I went to college, I was the house manager for my fraternity. Making things "drunk idiot proof" will involve massive overbuilding. I hope you know what you're in for.
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Dec 2, 2016 05:22
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I don't know if this is where I should ask but can't find anywhere better. I want to build some intricate crap without thinking too much. Like I'm talking about thousand plus piece kits that are super precise but just rely on me not being a dumbass and following directions. Once I'm done it'd be great if I could do something with it but if all I can do is look at it and say I put the thing together that's cool too. The best example of what I'm looking for is Gundam models. I don't care at all about their TV shows or whatever, but the kits are pretty impressive engineering feats. Putting together a real grade or perfect grade kit feels nice. I want to find other things like that. Other things I've seen and been tempted by are bipedal robot kits with plenty of servos and tiny little screws. Can anyone please recommend other stuff like this? I mean sure there's stuff like old boat models but they feel like they require lots of final fit and polish, that sort of thing. I want something I pull outta a box, follow instructions, and end up with a thing that is vaguely impressive, possibly only to myself? Had a quick look at Ugears stuff (https://ugears3dmodels.com/) and it's close, though maybe I'm being picky but I'd rather plastic or metal.
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Dec 2, 2016 05:26
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kid sinister posted:When I was a kid, we had high school hooligans swatting our mailbox with a baseball bat because of my older high school-age brother. So we got a steel cage around the mailboxes mounted to a steel pole set in concrete. That worked for awhile, until a drunk plowed into it. His car didn't hurt the pole or mailboxes too much... but his car did manage to rip the whole thing including concrete out of the ground and move it down the road 30 feet. I imagine it took awhile to unwrap his car from around the mailbox contraption too. Still, when we got it out and took it to a metal fabricator to straighten it out, we dug a new hole farther from the road and big enough to accommodate the concrete still attached. It's still there to this day. Then again, my brother graduated by this time. Stopping 1+ ton of metal attached to several hundred horsepower of engine is hard you say?
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Dec 2, 2016 06:04
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H110Hawk posted:Stopping 1+ ton of metal attached to several hundred horsepower of engine is hard you say? Hard? No. Restoring it to like it was before? Possibly.
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Dec 2, 2016 06:58
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Korranus posted:Can anyone recommend a good steel mailbox? I'm losing two mailboxes a year to drunks running them over or knocking them down, I want to put something a little more hefty.  If drunks are running over your mailbox, either there's a problem in your area like H110Hawk said, or you live on a busy enough road/dangerous enough section that you should consider talking to the city about safety improvements for anyone driving there.
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Dec 2, 2016 15:08
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There's always something like this, it'll put the post back further away from the road, and the mailbox is on a rotating swing arm, so it just gets knocked out of the way and swings back. They'd really have to go through your yard to knock the post down. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7igg43aNn4 http://www.mailswing.com/ 
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Dec 2, 2016 15:46
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n0tqu1tesane posted:There's always something like this, it'll put the post back further away from the road, and the mailbox is on a rotating swing arm, so it just gets knocked out of the way and swings back. They'd really have to go through your yard to knock the post down. If you mount your mailbox on a rotating swing arm, you're just asking for Indiana Jones to jump on it from a passing train
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Dec 2, 2016 18:04
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You could always try a breakaway sign post like this: Basically mount the bottom in, then in breaks off clean on impact, and you can just take an angle grinder, cut the broken off part flush, and mount it back to the base. I'd say you could just put a mail slot in your front door, but then the drunks would probably start crashing into the front of your house instead. Nature always finds a way.
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Dec 2, 2016 18:12
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Maybe try a concrete bollard on either side of the mailbox, with some brick fascia so they look OK. That said...OSU_Matthew posted:Nature always finds a way.
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Dec 2, 2016 18:19
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The obvious solution is to dig a hole in the ground and tell your mailman to just throw the mail in the mail hole. Can't knock over a hole.
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Dec 2, 2016 18:31
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How about we just tie the mailbox to some overhead power lines? Anyone hits it, it'll just swing around a bit like a demented pinata!
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Dec 2, 2016 18:34
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How about we just tie the mailbox to some overhead power lines? Anyone hits it, it'll just swing around a bit like a demented pinata! What would happen if you stand on the dirt and touch that metal mailbox?
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Dec 3, 2016 00:29
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kid sinister posted:What would happen if you stand on the dirt and touch that metal mailbox? A drunk driver would hit you, haven't you been paying attention?
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Dec 3, 2016 01:07
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So I have a weird question, I was meeting with my realtor and a home inspector reviewing the house, and there's a few electrical things (one GFCI outlet didn't work properly) and I mentioned a few wires I wanted to pull. The realtor told me that if I do my own electrical work there's a chance I could void the insurance on my house. Is that a thing? I live in NJ, so I know they are crazy on laws, but there's no way that if I do the work they could cancel my insurance. I guess if I did it and the house burned down it could be an issue, but the way they talked (and a few of my friends that are all non-handy people) it was like a forbidden topic. "What? Pull a wire? Fix that outlet yourself? You'll get your house condemned." That's nonsense, right?
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Dec 3, 2016 04:00
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Jerk McJerkface posted:So I have a weird question, I was meeting with my realtor and a home inspector reviewing the house, and there's a few electrical things (one GFCI outlet didn't work properly) and I mentioned a few wires I wanted to pull. The realtor told me that if I do my own electrical work there's a chance I could void the insurance on my house. Is that a thing? I live in NJ, so I know they are crazy on laws, but there's no way that if I do the work they could cancel my insurance. I guess if I did it and the house burned down it could be an issue, but the way they talked (and a few of my friends that are all non-handy people) it was like a forbidden topic. "What? Pull a wire? Fix that outlet yourself? You'll get your house condemned." Yes, that is 100% nonsense. They will neither cancel your policy nor deny a fire claim because you don't understand basic wiring theory and wire your toaster into the 220V water heater circuit. poo poo, if they ever wrote a stupidity exclusion in property insurance policies, I'd be unemployed. 
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Dec 3, 2016 04:59
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Jerk McJerkface posted:So I have a weird question, I was meeting with my realtor and a home inspector reviewing the house, and there's a few electrical things (one GFCI outlet didn't work properly) and I mentioned a few wires I wanted to pull. The realtor told me that if I do my own electrical work there's a chance I could void the insurance on my house. Is that a thing? I live in NJ, so I know they are crazy on laws, but there's no way that if I do the work they could cancel my insurance. I guess if I did it and the house burned down it could be an issue, but the way they talked (and a few of my friends that are all non-handy people) it was like a forbidden topic. "What? Pull a wire? Fix that outlet yourself? You'll get your house condemned." 100% nonsense. Most people are freaked out by things they do not understand, even something as standard and basic as household electricity. Largely, as a homeowner, you can do whatever the gently caress you like to your home, so long as you don't infringe on your neighbors and nobody else complains. Nobody is going to be checking your work for code violations, especially judging by the plethora of lovely previous homeowner fixes out there. You do however have a vested interest in doing things well, and doing things right, as it is your home and you'll suffer the consequences if not. But it's not going to affect anything else. Worst case you diy something real obvious and it winds up lovely, like a deck, and go to sell your house and the buyers go check to see if you pulled a permit, but 99% of buyers don't give a gently caress so long as things look nice. And then worst case they raise a stink and ask you to fix it. I mean, hell, did you go down to the county clerk's office and dig up the permit history to check on suspicious work with the house you're buying now? Caveat being nosy obnoxious neighbors with nothing better to do with their lives but spy on you, especially if you live in an upper crust neighborhood.
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Dec 3, 2016 06:04
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One of my old teachers got sick of kids taking out his mailbox. Made a new one out of 1/4" steel around an I-beam that went a metre or so into the ground. Got hit by a car once, didn't move. 
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Dec 3, 2016 11:52
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I have a cheap little tabletop drill press, and the drive belt broke. There's a phone number on the side to call the importer for replacement belts, but I don't exactly expect results or timely shipping even if they do still have 'em. The belt is 24cm circumference and 4mm diameter. Is that a standard o-ring size I can pick up at the local hardware store?
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Dec 3, 2016 13:29
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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I have a string of Christmas lights, I believe they are M5 type just the standard small incandescent bulbs. The string was purchased from Goodwill so I have no idea what brand they are. . . The string was missing a bulb and thus will not light up at all with a bulb in the empty socket. I am able to wedge in bulb holders from other sets (they fit fine, just stick out a little farther and are obviously not from this set, I doubt it's a problem) but every time I put in a new bulb, the new bulb immediately emits a bright flash and burns out, but the remainder of the string lights up if I have the burn out bulb installed. Why are the bulbs burning out immediately? Would it be unsafe to use this strand since I am apparently using a bulb that is clearly not the same as the other bulbs? I'm assuming the best thing to do would be to throw away the strand and buy a new set, especially considering I can find an identical set new for $2.99. . . I just hate to be wasteful if this string is in fact fine.
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Dec 3, 2016 19:03
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Crotch Fruit posted:I have a string of Christmas lights, I believe they are M5 type just the standard small incandescent bulbs. The string was purchased from Goodwill so I have no idea what brand they are. . . The string was missing a bulb and thus will not light up at all with a bulb in the empty socket. I am able to wedge in bulb holders from other sets (they fit fine, just stick out a little farther and are obviously not from this set, I doubt it's a problem) but every time I put in a new bulb, the new bulb immediately emits a bright flash and burns out, but the remainder of the string lights up if I have the burn out bulb installed. Most modern incandescent Christmas light bulbs have a secondary winding inside to complete the circuit if the filament burns out. That way, only that one light goes out and not that entire series, like the older strands did. Can you move the dud bulb around, or is it that specific socket that is giving you problems? Edit: As for the "immediately blowing" problem, you're probably using the wrong voltage bulbs for your string. Shorter strings use higher voltage bulbs. Multiply the bulb's voltage by the number of bulbs in that series (long strands can have multiple series) and you should get a number around 120 volts. 50 bulb series use 2.5v bulbs, 35 bulb series use 3.5v bulbs, 10 bulb series use 12v bulbs. Then for 2.5v bulbs there are Energy Saving bulbs and Super Bright bulbs. Guess what happens if you plug an ES bulb into a SB string? Then if you do the opposite, the SB bulb will barely light up. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Dec 3, 2016 |
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Dec 3, 2016 19:27
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Now for my own post. How should I fasten these back together? It's particle board and veneer, that's why the screws ripped out in the first place. By the way, nothing can show out the other side. Otherwise I'd just drill holes through and I put in some machine screws. I'm also looking for a permanent fix, not just something that will last a couple months/a year before I need to fix it again. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Dec 3, 2016 |
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Dec 3, 2016 20:24
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kid sinister posted:Now for my own post. How should I fasten these back together? It's particle board and veneer, that's why the screws ripped out in the first place. The hell are we looking at here? I'd move the brackets in an inch or so and redo. Fill those divots with rock water putty or summat.
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Dec 3, 2016 21:01
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Mr. Mambold posted:The hell are we looking at here? I'd move the brackets in an inch or so and redo. Fill those divots with rock water putty or summat. It's a tilt out door for a hair salon cabinet. Rubber bumpers on the inside of the cabinet keep the door from tilting out too far. Hair dryers and clippers and such go in the holes. I can't move the bracket too much, otherwise there won't be enough room to fit that stuff in the gap. What's summat?
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Dec 3, 2016 21:57
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kid sinister posted:What's summat? British slang for "something".
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Dec 3, 2016 22:00
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