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berzerkmonkey posted:Did you prime with another color, or is the Ironbreaker directly on the model? Sorry, i primed it black with Vallejo surface primer. I'm not sure how much the underlying primer affects the shade of a metal colour.
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Dec 1, 2016 19:43
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Frobbe posted:Sorry, i primed it black with Vallejo surface primer. I'm not sure how much the underlying primer affects the shade of a metal colour. Usually quite a bit - black will make the metal "shine" more, and white will result in a more dull tone. Thanks for the recommendation!
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Dec 1, 2016 19:55
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Frobbe posted:Check out Citadel Air Ironbreaker, it's what i used for all my scourge and they came out very nice! Nice! Is this just silver with a wash? Is P3 Pig Iron about similar?
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Dec 1, 2016 20:26
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berzerkmonkey posted:I need a recommendation for a very fine silver(ish) paint that I can use as a base for my 6mm Epic stuff. I'm looking to do Alpha Legion, and, since there will be multiple layers, I've got to do very fine coats that still cover well. This can be airbrush or rattlecan. Vallejo Air Steel (71.065) is great for smooth silver that you can mix with other colors.
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Dec 1, 2016 21:04
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Pierzak posted:Vallejo Air Steel (71.065) is great for smooth silver that you can mix with other colors. I'm less worried about mixing it than it applying smoothly and being able to take a top layer. Thanks for the rec though - I'll look into this as well.
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Dec 1, 2016 21:34
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I just finished these bad boys. Hope you don't mind a dump of a few pics.   
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Dec 1, 2016 22:46
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Made the most of the black friday sales, and bought some paints from Vallejo, P3 and Reaper. Currently in love with Necrotite Green, Murderous Magenta and Burgundy Wine. Girlfriend came home, saw the table of paint pots and laughed. Added a new paint rack to the credit card. edit: Also got to use Gamer's grass for the first time, really, really like the result. 
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Dec 1, 2016 22:56
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big_g posted:I just finished these bad boys. Hope you don't mind a dump of a few pics.
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Dec 2, 2016 00:00
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'm less worried about mixing it than it applying smoothly and being able to take a top layer. Thanks for the rec though - I'll look into this as well. It's airbrush paint, so it's noticeably smoother than normal ones. If you want multiple layers of glazes like on those FW 30k schemes, it should do nicely.
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Dec 2, 2016 01:09
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 Did something more with green stuff than gap filling for the first time today. I reposed my Titan Sentry's shield arm to make him hold it in a more defensive position. The stock model has the shield arm awkwardly hanging by his side, thanks to it being a plastic kit with three different weapon options, and the arm being reused, forcing them to go with a very generic pose. It's not much, but I'm proud of it. My sculpting is garbage, it just looked like a green sausage, but thankfully his shoulderguard covers it neatly.
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Dec 2, 2016 01:28
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Chill la Chill posted:Nice! Is this just silver with a wash? Is P3 Pig Iron about similar? yeah, i airbrushed citadel air ironbreaker (chosen purely because it's what i had lying about) and gave it a single layer of druchii violet wash. it's goddamn lovely! here's the entire crew  I am considering maybe a very soft drybrush to highlight all the greeblies.
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Dec 2, 2016 09:38
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Nice. That reminds me: what's that new GW technical paint about? The one where you apply it over a silver undercoat. Heard it was supposed to produce gem-like brilliance but it's exactly like Tamiya's XF(?) series but more expensive.
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Dec 2, 2016 16:15
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Talking of new GW paints, I'm wondering how similar the new Ahriman and Thousand Son blues are to something like Trollblood Base from Privateer.
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Dec 2, 2016 17:06
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Chill la Chill posted:Nice. That reminds me: what's that new GW technical paint about? The one where you apply it over a silver undercoat. Heard it was supposed to produce gem-like brilliance but it's exactly like Tamiya's XF(?) series but more expensive. Thats a good description. They're basically strong pigments but with little paint medium, so they can influence other paints without overpowering their medium properties (i.e metallics, wet drying paints, technical basings, etc.).
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Dec 2, 2016 18:03
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You're thinking of the tints not the gemstone paints. Haven't tried them myself but they seem to be basically a thick ink. Technique is a big part of it as you want it to go on thinner at the bottom and thick at the top to give the look of depth.
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Dec 2, 2016 18:09
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Pierzak posted:It's airbrush paint, so it's noticeably smoother than normal ones. If you want multiple layers of glazes like on those FW 30k schemes, it should do nicely. Thanks. Speaking of airbrushing, do you guys thin your Vallejo primers (or any primer, for that matter?) I haven't used my VP yet, and was just wondering how well it flows from a Patriot/all-around GP airbrush.
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Dec 2, 2016 19:22
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I don't thin my Stynylrez, haven't tried using Vallejo.
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Dec 2, 2016 19:28
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No need to thin surface primer.
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Dec 2, 2016 19:33
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OK, thanks. I know some folks like to thin everything, including airbrush paints, so I wanted to make sure.
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Dec 2, 2016 20:19
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I only thin airbrush paints if I need them to be even thinner then they already are and more glaze like. The only thing I *usually* autothin are brush paints, and even that isn't always true. I usually don't thin out Reaper HD paints, for instance, unless I am mixing them with another type of paint, for example.
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Dec 2, 2016 20:24
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berzerkmonkey posted:Thanks. I've had issues with dry tip with unthinned Vallejo primer. But I haven't tried it thinned yet. On the subject of dry tip any suggestions for minimizing it? I've heard windex will work although it's not the recommended.
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Dec 2, 2016 20:33
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I've had issues with dry tip with unthinned Vallejo primer. But I haven't tried it thinned yet. Windex will dry your seals/gaskets, from what I understand. They make needle lube, though I haven't used it. You can use flow improver as well. Or, just keep a Qtip with thinner at hand and clean the tip every so often.
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Dec 2, 2016 20:37
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darnon posted:You're thinking of the tints not the gemstone paints. Haven't tried them myself but they seem to be basically a thick ink. Technique is a big part of it as you want it to go on thinner at the bottom and thick at the top to give the look of depth. My bad. The idea is still pretty similar; the gemstone paints are very slightly translucent, so the first thin coats are to tint the silver into a gemstone shine, and then the thick coats still allow the (no longer silver) metallic sheen to catch some light. You can certainly do the same with Tamiya, but I feel the citadel ones are a little more forgiving in terms of technique. I'm not sure how many other paint lines have a similar thing going on, since GW puts funky stuff in their paint and Tamiya is resin/alcohol based to get the wet looks, while most other lines stick to solvent-less acrylics for ease of use.
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Dec 2, 2016 21:10
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Splitting this into a doublepost: right now I'm having a minor airbrush problem; when I depress the trigger the brush continues to spray air gor 1-2 seconds before stopping. It's not a huge problem right now as I'm still working on larger scale gunpla, but I imagine it would make mini painting in the future rather frustrating. Would I be correct in assuming that the culprit is a warped rubber stopper in the plunger hole? If so, is there a simple fix or cheap way to replace it?
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Dec 2, 2016 21:14
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I had a similar problem. The mechanism was gunked up. I put some airbrush cleaner in the problem area, let it sit for like a minute, then flushed it out. Worked fine after that.
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Dec 2, 2016 21:29
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berzerkmonkey posted:Windex will dry your seals/gaskets, from what I understand. They make needle lube, though I haven't used it. You can use flow improver as well. Or, just keep a Qtip with thinner at hand and clean the tip every so often. I'll check those out, mine gets dry every 5 minutes which may be related to it being bone dry in my apartment or me being terrible. Although I'm curious what O rings are in the airbrush in the front end since it's all metal to metal seals.
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Dec 2, 2016 22:34
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Ezekiel_980 posted:I've had issues with dry tip with unthinned Vallejo primer. But I haven't tried it thinned yet. Windex makes a specific formulation that is ammonia free, which you definitely want if you're going to use it in your airbrush. Using regular Windex with ammonia will almost certainly corrode your airbrush over time and breathing in ammonia is pretty lovely.
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Dec 3, 2016 08:29
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Can't say enough good things about Vallejo flow improver. It makes airbrushing even easier - and it's got a drying retarder in it so dry tip is very hard to come by. A++
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Dec 3, 2016 09:07
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Yeast posted:Can't say enough good things about Vallejo flow improver. It makes airbrushing even easier - and it's got a drying retarder in it so dry tip is very hard to come by. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Dec 3, 2016 |
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Dec 3, 2016 21:03
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Ammonia free windex in a condiment dispensing squeeze bottle is really handy for doing quick airbrush cleaning between colors.
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Dec 3, 2016 21:14
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SPACESHIP!    It took some time to figure out the details of the scheme and redo a few sections. I also went a bit heavy on the gloss coat and meaning it almost a week to dry. But it's finally finished and i'm happy with it. Subsequent ships should be a good bit faster and there's not that many in a fleet. Was a bitch to photograph though, by phones auto-exposure does not like dark grey. I took plenty of WiP pics too and i'll be writing up that step-by-step.
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Dec 4, 2016 12:20
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I just saw this in the drop thread, but that ship is so pretty. What kind of stand is that?
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Dec 4, 2016 13:50
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That ship is stunning. Stand looks like a telescopic aerial.
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Dec 4, 2016 13:52
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Ilor posted:These are rad as gently caress.
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Dec 4, 2016 14:27
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Bistromatic posted:SPACESHIP! 
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Dec 4, 2016 15:19
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How
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Dec 4, 2016 16:21
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Bistromatic posted:SPACESHIP! Is that Dropfleet Commander?
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Dec 4, 2016 16:51
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DiHK posted:Is that Dropfleet Commander? Yes. It's a UCM ship.
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Dec 4, 2016 16:54
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Thanks for the kind words y'all! I wrote a first draft of the Step-by-Step: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1cT1xAa0Cigac--IN5Kdhxazao0PgUaa_3myIbAntCrA/edit?usp=sharing If anyone wants i can post the whole thing here directly too. I'll happily answer questions or go into more detail about particular things. Dr. Phildo posted:I just saw this in the drop thread, but that ship is so pretty. What kind of stand is that? I'm working on custom telescoping bases, it's an antenna like TT suggested. 
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Dec 4, 2016 21:28
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Ok i'm loving stumped, can any goons offer any advise with this? or suggest a helpful airbrush forum? Using a badger 105, so far i have tried: Vallejo air brush primer - works for about a minute then the air brush clogs. Vallejo white primer with a few drops of thinner - works for about a minute but then i get dry tip after a few times cleaning that i get a clog. Vallejo white primer with a 1/5th thinner - way too thin the clogs seem to build up over time and then the only way i can clear them for a bit is to engage the action at full blast with the needle fully retracted. I had a Iwata CS before this and I had nowhere this level of difficultly. I've been cleaning the airbrush after as the helpful video in the OP advised and it seems to be clean. Is the Vallejo paint just super awful? is createx air brush paint a better option? Also doubtthis is related but when taking the adapter on and off the airbrush should the part 50-015 in this diagram keep poping out? http://www.badgerairbrush.com/pdf/105%20fine%20patriot.pdf Bistromatic posted:SPACESHIP! gently caress, this is amazing.
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Dec 4, 2016 22:58
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