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PirateDentist posted:Airbrushes are tricky. I recently got a lot happier using mine once I finally got a decent method down for cleaning it. Just throwing it in the ultrasonic bath didn't do great. I got a set of cleaning brushes, they look like tiny bottle brushes, and that did vastly more for clearing out paint and crap from all the nooks and crannies. These specifically, they're cheap and def. won't last forever, but I've got one their stores a mile away. Amazon has others like it. I use interdental brushes to clean my airbrush. It's not this brand, but as long as you can find some that are long enough, they work like a charm: http://www.tepe.com/ie/products/interdental-brushes/how-to-use/ Dip them in isopropyl alcohol and go to town. I've used airbrush cleaning brushes before, but they started fraying pretty quickly. Interdental brushes last me 6 months per brush.
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Dec 4, 2016 02:47
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I painted/put together Badai's First Order Tie Fighter this week. It's crazy how well the parts fit together.
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Dec 4, 2016 05:18
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Bandai gets some weird hate from modelers, but their kits are insanely good when it comes to parts fit.
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Dec 4, 2016 05:29
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The base could be prettier. I get that its flying over Jakku but if you wanted something a little better looking without mods I'd think the hanger would have looked better and youd have a better reason/look to the arm thats holding it up. Model is cool though.
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Dec 4, 2016 05:33
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Blackchamber posted:The base could be prettier. I get that its flying over Jakku but if you wanted something a little better looking without mods I'd think the hanger would have looked better and youd have a better reason/look to the arm thats holding it up. Model is cool though. Agreed. I haven't glued the base on to the model, and I'd really like a hangar type look more. Just not sure what to use or build as a base to get that look yet.
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Dec 4, 2016 05:58
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If you've got any old kits you don't plan to build, you could always go the traditional Star Wars kitbash route and glue a bunch of greebly parts to a piece of painted wood to create a techy surface.
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Dec 4, 2016 07:52
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SkunkDuster posted:I picked up some 3/8" steel bearings to use as paint agitators in larger (4+ ounce) bottles of paint and primer. They work great in the plastic Alclad primer bottles, but I found out the hard way not to use them in the glass bottles. A brand new bottle of white primer down the drain (and that was my only bottle of white Hahaha you have my chair! I've had a set of those in my dining room since the 1990s. I knew they were long past their prime when I found a worn out set dumped at the curb a couple of years ago. 
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Dec 4, 2016 10:23
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Dick Trauma posted:Hahaha you have my chair! I've had a set of those in my dining room since the 1990s. Haha holy poo poo I didn't even realize but thats our dining chairs too. Gloss black painted metal backs right? We still actually have them though; being the DIY packeats we are, we sew new pads and patterns onto them and kept them around. Maybe they put a secret model chemtrail in those chairs 
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Dec 4, 2016 11:56
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If you do make a hangar, remember that TIE panels can't support the weight of the cockpit and they need to be hung from racks. 
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Dec 4, 2016 12:46
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I believe both Bandai and Kotobukiya sell hangar displays if you want an explicitly scifi one, but its not hard to make one from Styrene (and it would fit with Star Wars aesthetic).
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Dec 4, 2016 12:52
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Lemon-Lime posted:If you do make a hangar, remember that TIE panels can't support the weight of the cockpit and they need to be hung from racks. Not true, they land at airfields on them all the time.
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Dec 4, 2016 20:08
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Behold: a terrible picture of the finished wheels for the C10. Still deciding on whether or not to do valve stems. Might throw one in to see how it looks and go from there.
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Dec 4, 2016 22:39
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Got the canopy of the F14 working (mostly, it still likes to jam a bit) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBauKQOX-Xg Also started to make a chair for my Stuka pilot  
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Dec 5, 2016 14:01
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Newbie modeler. What do I apply before decals and what is the recommended brand?
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Dec 5, 2016 23:50
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Base coat, gloss coat, decals, gloss coat, then weathering/filters/washes/etc. I've had good luck with Tamiya rattle cans for the gloss (their flat isn't that great though).
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Dec 6, 2016 00:39
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I'm just going to leave this here: 1/48 XB-70. (Too bad it is priced like a Warhammer accessory.)
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Dec 6, 2016 00:55
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Nebakenezzer posted:I'm just going to leave this here: 1/48 XB-70. How on earth is it 600 dollars but the 1/48 b-1b is somehow under $100
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Dec 6, 2016 01:38
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And resin to boot. Yuck.
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Dec 6, 2016 01:38
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I don't know how to casting. What did I do wrong? Using milliput. The flaws seem entirely to be in the casting not the mold.
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Dec 6, 2016 05:01
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Milliput casting is tough. You basically need to just keep packing it into the mould until you're sure it's full and then keep on packing. Even then, you're not really going to get perfect results.
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Dec 6, 2016 05:05
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It's not a 2 part mold, would I have better results just pouring some plaster of paris in there? This blue stuff is awesome, it's just the casting that's hard. I watched a youtube of a guy making warhams with it and he used some sort of 2-part epoxy clay very much like miliput and got great results. Should I try something like green stuff?
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Dec 6, 2016 05:08
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Did you use any sort of release agent? You might have better luck also using something like Hydrocal. Plaster of Paris is similar, but will be a bit heaver than a lightweight hydrocal.
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Dec 6, 2016 05:17
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Is blue stuff silicon? If so I'd just grab a two part themoset polystyrene set.
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Dec 6, 2016 05:20
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Baronjutter posted:It's not a 2 part mold, would I have better results just pouring some plaster of paris in there? I think what you're talking about and it looks pretty awesome. I don't have any experience with Miliput, but Green Stuff should work just fine for it. Raskolnikov38 posted:Is blue stuff silicon? If so I'd just grab a two part themoset polystyrene set. It's a weird thermoplastic by the same company as Green Stuff. You heat it up to make it malleable, push the piece into it (like mold putty), then let it cool down to harden. What makes it great is that its entirely reusable for different moldings, which is great because: 1. Mold Putty sucks because of how easy it is to get a flawed mold compared to liquid silicone molds 2. A huge barrier for consumer-common casting is that most people only need a specific mold for one good casting, which often isn't worth the effort in silicone/resin fuckery. Right now the only reliable way to get it seems to be through the GREENSTUFFWORLD ebay shop though, so its not too well known yet.
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Dec 6, 2016 07:03
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Did you use any sort of release agent?
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Dec 6, 2016 08:00
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All the tutorials raved about how you don't need a release agent with the stuff. It all came out pretty easy really, just a poo poo casting.
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Dec 6, 2016 08:03
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Yeah, I cast in resin without release agent all the time. But I've never attempted to cast in milliput, that sounds extremely difficult. See if you can pick up some polyurethane casting resin. My amateur casting method is usually to make single piece molds out of silicone, and then just pour polyurethane resin in the mold, like this type of resin: https://sylmasta.com/catalogue/product/polycast-g27lv-low-viscosity-polyurethane-casting-resin-2kg/ lilljonas fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 08:48
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If you've got a good mold, I will echo the other guys here and suggest that you seriously consider picking up some resin. It's turbo easy to use. I use this stuff: http://www.alumilite.com/store/p/1022-Alumilite-Regular-Tan.aspx. I've cast a few transmissions for scale models and the process is super simple and the detail is fantastic. Had to make a few parts for the big project, too. Needed more of these:  Made a mold (didn't come out super great because of some serious undercuts):  Mix equal parts of the resin and pour:  This part was pretty small so it set in about 7 or 8 minutes I believe. You can see it even picked up some of the fingerprints I'd left in the clay when I made the mold.  A little cleanup with the Dremel and it's ready.  Since your mold is basically a big box from what I can see, I think this would easy as piss to cast.
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Dec 6, 2016 14:59
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:
yeah, "boxy thing with no undercut" is a dream shape for casting.
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Dec 6, 2016 16:37
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One thing of note: its pretty easy for a cast to end up with air bubbles, even with dope undercuts. This wont be a big deal for you since they are pretty small and easy to fill in, just something to keep in mind if you experiment with say, clear resin windshields.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:11
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I've got a bunch of smooth-on resin poo poo, I'll try that. I was just hoping to get away from poured nasty chemical poo poo.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:14
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Baronjutter posted:I've got a bunch of smooth-on resin poo poo, I'll try that. I was just hoping to get away from poured nasty chemical poo poo. Then you should deffo check out the blue stuff. It's like 10bux for four sticks, and at your scale + reusable that should be enough.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:17
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Neurolimal posted:Then you should deffo check out the blue stuff. It's like 10bux for four sticks, and at your scale + reusable that should be enough. Check the big blue lump in the corner of the picture, that's the blue stuff. The blue stuff seems to work fantastic, it's casting inside the blue stuff that I'm having trouble with 
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Dec 6, 2016 19:24
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Baronjutter posted:Check the big blue lump in the corner of the picture, that's the blue stuff. The blue stuff seems to work fantastic, it's casting inside the blue stuff that I'm having trouble with Ah. Yeah, I've no experience with millilput, but if I'm thinking of the same vid as you he used epoxy putty/green stuff.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:41
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Has anybody built a Modelcollect? They seem to have a range of stuff in 1/72 (like the T-64) that I am intrigued by
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Dec 7, 2016 22:31
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Mr E posted:I painted/put together Badai's First Order Tie Fighter this week. It's crazy how well the parts fit together. That looks great, dang.
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Dec 10, 2016 02:08
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After a year's hiatus, I finally put together another one of those Metal Earth kits. This AT-AT took me about four and a half hours to build:  Bonus shot of our cat battling with the Empire: 
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Dec 10, 2016 02:11
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Van Dis posted:That looks great, dang. Thanks!  I love doing those little metal models too, they're good to put on my desk at work.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:15
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Van Dis posted:That looks great, dang. Bandai's Star Wars kits are amazing, but goddamn hard to import for a decent price now because they're only meant to have a Japanese license and Revell sobbed to Papa Disney about them making far and away better kits or something.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:30
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Neddy Seagoon posted:Bandai's Star Wars kits are amazing, but goddamn hard to import for a decent price now because they're only meant to have a Japanese license and Revell sobbed to Papa Disney about them making far and away better kits or something. Bandai is going to have a distributor in the states next year I think.
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Dec 10, 2016 06:31
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