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sex swing from IKEA posted:I need some new tires but I'm not sure to go with winter or all seasons. Go to tirerack.com and spec out a winter wheel set. It's worth it - especially living in Boston (I'm west of Boston). I use all seasons 3 seasons of the year, and a dedicated set of winters (will be useful today!). Don't skimp on tires.
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Dec 5, 2016 15:02
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:A good list Matches or some kind of firestarter is a good idea, too. The thing to remember with water is that after a while it can A-go bad, B-taste like the container it's in. Be ready to swap it out once in a while.
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Dec 5, 2016 16:56
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Kibbles n Shits posted:Edit: If the brake lines were swelling too much, would you be able to physically see it when someone pressed the brake? If they're bad enough and you can see the right spot (it can be just a bubble on one side) sure. But weren't you talking about a 10+ year old vehicle? I pretty much count on rubber hoses being crap by then. It happens so slowly it's hard to notice until you start trying to make your brakes feel decent.
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Dec 5, 2016 21:59
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Godholio posted:Matches or some kind of firestarter is a good idea, too. The thing to remember with water is that after a while it can A-go bad, B-taste like the container it's in. Be ready to swap it out once in a while. True that. A few matches can help if things go really south. And they can outright solve problems if things to about fourteen inches lower than that.
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Dec 5, 2016 22:14
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:True that. A few matches can help if things go really south. And they can outright solve problems if things to about fourteen inches lower than that.
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Dec 5, 2016 22:28
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:True that. A few matches can help if things go really south. And they can outright solve problems if things to about fourteen inches lower than that. I didn't think the Jeep's tires burning dropped it THAT much.
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Dec 6, 2016 03:19
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1992 4runner, 22re with 5 speed manual, 4x4. 350 000 km, bought in september. The car has been doing great, but It's been getting cold here in eastern Canadia and I've been having this 'rattle' or rumble that sounds like it's coming from far in the front of the dashboard. It only occurs when the car is warmed up, and when I'm fully clutched out and accelerating to speed. It will be more prevalent when the engine is straining a bit in an incline. It will do it somewhat in 2nd too if I'm in a steeper incline. I can't replicate the sound with the hood up and playing with the throttle. Here's a vid of me shifting from 1st to 2nd on a small incline, when the car is warmed up. The grumbling is around 3s in: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8EywhCaA6dxdTVsZW9nc1J3YXc I don't notice any loss of power, and the clutch feels good, no weird vibration anywhere. Is this what air in the cooling system sounds like? It's hella loud. The radiator was changed in the last 5000 km, but I changed the radiator cap today since the seal looked damaged. I'm not missing coolant. I tried 'burping' the car but no air came out, I did not try to raise the front end though. Any help would be appreciated. 
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Dec 6, 2016 05:50
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It could be something dumb like a stone that fell into a vent and rattles in resonance at particular vibrations. Does it change with fan speed or heater outlet setting? If so, it may just be a loose object in the HVAC somewhere. Particularly if you can isolate the noise as coming from inside the cabin, not the engine bay.
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Dec 6, 2016 05:55
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I'll look into playing with the heater settings tomorrow, I've been keeping it on the same setting to defreeze my windshield. If I shift low to third when rolling to lug it a bit, It doesn't do it even at a similar rpm. It's really as I'm getting up to speed that the gurgling appears. Actually thinking about it, there was a lot of dust / small pebbles around the winshield fan the other day I'll look around if there's anything trapped around the cabin air filter blower.
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Dec 6, 2016 06:15
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So my stupid piece of poo poo LOL Dodge wouldn't start this morning and I'm pretty sure I know why and it's my fault, but I wanted to run it by you guys. Car is a 2016 Challenger with the 5.7L V8 and 6-speed. I parked it Friday with maybe 1/8 of a tank of gas, but Friday night I had to make an emergency run to the ER as my mom was there. Got back home real late, didn't feel like getting gas, parked it pretty much on fumes (but it was running fine). The car sat all day Saturday, Sunday and Monday. It was about 30° outside, so probably 45° in my garage. This morning (Tuesday) it takes forever to turn over starts and then dies after two seconds. It then wouldn't even start. I have a gas can with 87 octane (car requires 93 but will run on lower octanes OK) in it so I put about a gallon in and it started up. Went and got gas and it seems fine. Did I just run out of gas, or do cars still vapor lock? It just seems weird that it would be running fine when parked, then be out of fuel next time I go to start it.
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Dec 6, 2016 15:00
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Gasoline does have some surface tension - not nearly as much as water, but it exists, so if it was really low on gas, once that prime was lost to the pump, it wasn't going anywhere if it was on fumes. You're lucky you got home, to be honest, but I completely understand being stressed out and not wanting to stop for gas after that kind of stress.
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Dec 6, 2016 15:35
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I think you just ran out of gas. Ideal conditions for a vapor lock incident are a hot summer day and shutting it off after a hot run on the highway followed by sitting in traffic not moving, it's unlikely that would happen in December on the plains.
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Dec 6, 2016 17:59
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Super dumb question here: Took my 2010 Outback to the dealership for some recall repair work. They did a free inspection, ostensibly to try and sell overpriced dealer services to me. I wasn't really paying attention when they called (since i figured it was mostly a scam) but the only thing they mentioned was that my battery could stand to be replaced. I think they said that it would normally be at 600 (units of whatever i wasn't paying attention to) and it was only at 400 (units of whatever i wasn't paying attention to.) Could have been a different number but it sounded like it wasn't dire, but would be prudent to replace. Do I need to replace my battery? Are there suggested brands if i get a replacement? About how much should it run me (parts and labor) in NYC? New car and first car owned in many many years so I'm a bit rusty on the upkeep steps.
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Dec 6, 2016 18:21
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When was the last time the battery was replaced?
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Dec 6, 2016 18:23
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If the starter spins enthusiastically and the car starts fine without slowly winding up to a speed where it will actually start, even when it's cold out, you should be fine for now, but it's up to you.
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Dec 6, 2016 18:29
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The last two batteries I had die on me did so without any warning at all. One required a pick up so I could get to the automotive store and get a replacement. The other required a ride to work. So, not the worst scenario, but I'd have rather avoided the inconvenience if I knew it was coming. If your battery is 5 years old or more, you're probably on borrowed time anyway. It wouldn't hurt to replace it.
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Dec 6, 2016 18:33
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The Ferret King posted:When was the last time the battery was replaced? Not sure - would have to check with my dad. It sounds like it's probably just best to take care of it. Is one battery as good as another, or should i specifically request a particular brand? Or buy my own and ask them to put it in?
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Dec 6, 2016 18:52
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Does anyone have any somewhat official looking videos explaining that modern vehicles don't need to idle for 20 minutes to warm up in the cold? After a lifetime of owning carbed vehicles, my pops is convinced that he needs to warm up both his and my mom's vehicles for crazy amounts of time when it's cold. Even better yet he thinks it's a good idea to just start the vehicles when it's cold and warm them up then shut them down "just in case we need to go somewhere later". I can't get him to understand that modern vehicles are completely different animals, and that all of the electronics in a modern vehicle use a lot of power, which the alternator can't easily supply at idle. He's always having problems starting vehicles when he actually does need to go somewhere, dead batteries, etc, and I'm 99% sure it's because his vehicles spend more time idling than they do driving somewhere. He will not listen to me, but he seems to listen when people on youtube say stuff so maybe I can keep him from hemorrhaging money and tearing up their new vehicles.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:10
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I park my truck for the winter, and every few weeks I go start it up and let it run for about twenty minutes to recharge the battery and get the fluids circulating a little bit, but that's the only reason. Modern cars are most efficient at operating temperature, and the quickest way to get them to operating temperature is to drive them, not let them sitting running idle when cold.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:30
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I wouldn't beat the beanbag off a modern car ice cold (unless it's a $500 beater, which I do every day) but gentle normal driving is perfectly fine. Measure the voltage at the battery terminals while it's idling, then compare to flooded lead acid float, charge, and rapid charge voltages, which I forget. You can tell whether it can charge the battery at idle or not that easily.
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Dec 6, 2016 19:48
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I live in Virginia and I was wondering if anyone had experience with claiming diminished value on a car involved in an accident. I was rear ended by someone else (they are at fault) and am not sure how to go about getting diminished value. The car was deemed a total loss (valued at $2200, repairs estimated at $3000+). When I asked the State Farm claims department they said that the $2200 valuation did not include diminished value but I would have to get the car repaired and then submit evidence regarding diminished value. Is this the normal way things go? The following links seem to say that State Farm should tell me what amount they will give me for diminished value: http://www.iii.org/article/will-my-insurance-pay-loss-my-car%C2%92s-value-if-it-damaged-collision http://paullinlaw.com/virginia-statute-recognizes-diminished-value-for-wrecked-cars/ http://www.cooperhurley.com/blog/property-damage-diminished-value-claims-in-virginia/ Based on this, it seems like State farm is giving me the runaround, correct?
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Dec 6, 2016 20:29
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Jose Cuervo posted:I live in Virginia and I was wondering if anyone had experience with claiming diminished value on a car involved in an accident. I was rear ended by someone else (they are at fault) and am not sure how to go about getting diminished value. The car was deemed a total loss (valued at $2200, repairs estimated at $3000+). When I asked the State Farm claims department they said that the $2200 valuation did not include diminished value but I would have to get the car repaired and then submit evidence regarding diminished value. Is this the normal way things go? I have no idea what they mean by "does not include diminished value" but, it seems like they're trying to gently caress you. When I wrecked my bike, Progressive paid me $3000 for a bike I paid $2000 for 5 years and 20,000 miles prior. Then I bought it back from them for $800, and sold it for $1000.
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Dec 6, 2016 20:38
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DELETED posted:Does anyone have any somewhat official looking videos explaining that modern vehicles don't need to idle for 20 minutes to warm up in the cold? After a lifetime of owning carbed vehicles, my pops is convinced that he needs to warm up both his and my mom's vehicles for crazy amounts of time when it's cold. Even better yet he thinks it's a good idea to just start the vehicles when it's cold and warm them up then shut them down "just in case we need to go somewhere later". I can't get him to understand that modern vehicles are completely different animals, and that all of the electronics in a modern vehicle use a lot of power, which the alternator can't easily supply at idle. He's always having problems starting vehicles when he actually does need to go somewhere, dead batteries, etc, and I'm 99% sure it's because his vehicles spend more time idling than they do driving somewhere. He will not listen to me, but he seems to listen when people on youtube say stuff so maybe I can keep him from hemorrhaging money and tearing up their new vehicles. I'd bet money that there is a paragraph in the car's handbook that says this exact thing.
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Dec 6, 2016 20:48
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DELETED posted:Does anyone have any somewhat official looking videos explaining that modern vehicles don't need to idle for 20 minutes to warm up in the cold? After a lifetime of owning carbed vehicles, my pops is convinced that he needs to warm up both his and my mom's vehicles for crazy amounts of time when it's cold. Even better yet he thinks it's a good idea to just start the vehicles when it's cold and warm them up then shut them down "just in case we need to go somewhere later". I can't get him to understand that modern vehicles are completely different animals, and that all of the electronics in a modern vehicle use a lot of power, which the alternator can't easily supply at idle. He's always having problems starting vehicles when he actually does need to go somewhere, dead batteries, etc, and I'm 99% sure it's because his vehicles spend more time idling than they do driving somewhere. He will not listen to me, but he seems to listen when people on youtube say stuff so maybe I can keep him from hemorrhaging money and tearing up their new vehicles. This wasn't true even in the days of carbs, so you have decades of misinformation to unravel. Good luck.
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Dec 6, 2016 20:49
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Tell him all those cold starts are ruining the environment and his cat.
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Dec 6, 2016 20:51
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I warm my (modern) car up for 5-10 minutes just so my balls don't freeze to the seat, because gently caress Michigan.
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Dec 6, 2016 20:51
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PaintVagrant posted:I warm my (modern) car up for 5-10 minutes just so my balls don't freeze to the seat, because gently caress Michigan. https://smile.amazon.com/Wagan-IN9438-Heated-Cushion-Support/dp/B0041RPGQ6/ Considered this thingy?
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Dec 6, 2016 20:56
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DELETED posted:Does anyone have any somewhat official looking videos explaining that modern vehicles don't need to idle for 20 minutes to warm up in the cold? After a lifetime of owning carbed vehicles, my pops is convinced that he needs to warm up both his and my mom's vehicles for crazy amounts of time when it's cold. Even better yet he thinks it's a good idea to just start the vehicles when it's cold and warm them up then shut them down "just in case we need to go somewhere later". I can't get him to understand that modern vehicles are completely different animals, and that all of the electronics in a modern vehicle use a lot of power, which the alternator can't easily supply at idle. He's always having problems starting vehicles when he actually does need to go somewhere, dead batteries, etc, and I'm 99% sure it's because his vehicles spend more time idling than they do driving somewhere. He will not listen to me, but he seems to listen when people on youtube say stuff so maybe I can keep him from hemorrhaging money and tearing up their new vehicles. He ought to be of the age where Popular Mechanics is something of an authority: http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/a19086/warming-up-your-car-in-the-cold-just-harms-engine/ ETA: Here's a video that says the same thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKALgXDwou4 Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Dec 6, 2016 |
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Dec 6, 2016 21:01
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I have the opposite problem with my bus right now. It has a non-heated intake manifold, and 14 inch intake runners. So, when I first start it up, with the choke still on, it runs amazing. Then, maybe 3-5 minutes into the drive, it runs like dogshit, because the intake runners are so cold, and the choke is open, but the engine isn't too warm yet. Then, maybe 10-15 minutes in, it picks back up, because radiant heat from the block is warming the runners up. I'm thinking of getting four of these, wrapped with this tape. Put them on the runners closest to the carburetor, and probably just leave them on all the time. Either that, or I've seen one project where a guy made aluminum covers that covered the intake runners like a blanket, with the bottom open to the block, to trap the block heat. That would be a PITA with the spark plug wires etc. Even older cars, like my beetle, have exhaust preheat on the intake, so just a few seconds after startup you've already got a heated carburetor base and intake tract, so all "warming the car up by idling" does is leave the oil colder for longer.
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Dec 6, 2016 21:13
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E-Money posted:Not sure - would have to check with my dad. It sounds like it's probably just best to take care of it. Is one battery as good as another, or should i specifically request a particular brand? Or buy my own and ask them to put it in? There are only a handful of companies that make them, and all the stickers with brand names are just that - stickers. Shop around for a reasonable price and *warranty* among the big-name parts stores. Autozone, O'Reilly, Sears, maybe even Walmart...I don't know who makes their house brand but it probably has a good warranty. Usually you can replace a battery in just a couple of minutes with a single socket and an extension (to reach down to the battery hold-down thing which is usually at the bottom of the battery). I don't know if your engine bay has any crazy stuff in the way.
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Dec 6, 2016 21:54
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I have the opposite problem with my bus right now. It has a non-heated intake manifold, and 14 inch intake runners. So, when I first start it up, with the choke still on, it runs amazing. Then, maybe 3-5 minutes into the drive, it runs like dogshit, because the intake runners are so cold, and the choke is open, but the engine isn't too warm yet. Then, maybe 10-15 minutes in, it picks back up, because radiant heat from the block is warming the runners up. Comedy option: toss a spark plug in the intake to periodically light off the fuel mixture and warm up the runners faster!
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Dec 6, 2016 21:59
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Godholio posted:There are only a handful of companies that make them, and all the stickers with brand names are just that - stickers. Shop around for a reasonable price and *warranty* among the big-name parts stores. Autozone, O'Reilly, Sears, maybe even Walmart...I don't know who makes their house brand but it probably has a good warranty. Thanks, turns out my dad had a new interstate battery put in it last year around this time so i'm pretty sure it's totally fine. If I end up needing a jump, i need a jump.
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Dec 6, 2016 22:25
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If the battery is a year old, it's almost assuredly still in the full replacement warranty so you shouldn't have to pay for a new one.
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Dec 6, 2016 23:19
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General question here: I own a 2006 Ford Five Hundred, and recently the AC has been blowing a bit warm. I've been looking into the DIY AC kits, but have read that they can destroy a system in the long run with that seal stop stuff they put in it. Are they actually safe to use? Or should I just bite the bullet and go to a mechanic?
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Dec 7, 2016 02:39
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Hit up the AC thread. Those kits are almost never appropriate.
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Dec 7, 2016 02:43
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Hit up the AC thread. Those kits are almost never appropriate. Didn't even see that thread, I'll post there instead thanks. Edit: I just went through seven pages looking for this thread, I'm blind as hell apparently. Any help? Even a title would work so I could ctrl+f this bitch. Pastry Mistakes fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 03:10
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Where the hell do Ford hide their block heater/block heater cords, specifically on a 2011 Edge if anyone knows?
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Dec 7, 2016 03:36
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Pastry Mistakes posted:Didn't even see that thread, I'll post there instead thanks. I think this is it. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3616944&pagenumber=1&perpage=40
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Dec 7, 2016 03:37
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Eau de MacGowan posted:Where the hell do Ford hide their block heater/block heater cords, specifically on a 2011 Edge if anyone knows? Are you positive it has one installed? Or see this
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Dec 7, 2016 03:43
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two_beer_bishes posted:Are you positive it has one installed? I am not positive. I was told that it does, but I can't find it. Thanks for the link, I already checked that site. I can't get under the car this evening, because it's -20C and I don't want to go digging around in the snow.
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Dec 7, 2016 03:59
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