|
Any tips on how to remove rusted bolts where you can't get a torch in? My electric impact gun does nothing and a half can of liquid wrench has been sprayed in so far
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 04:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 01:48 |
|
|
The Door Frame posted:Any tips on how to remove rusted bolts where you can't get a torch in? My electric impact gun does nothing and a half can of liquid wrench has been sprayed in so far Leverage is king. I hear a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the poo poo, so maybe try some of that for penetrant of you can. Hit it with the juice, tap on the bolt with something to kind of vibrate the poo poo in there, repeat a couple times, let her marinate overnight. Time comes, get a wrench on it and make that fucker as long as possible. Commence ta reefin'. Hammer on a smaller wrench/socket if necessary/possible.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 04:18
|
|
|
There we go, I knew it had something to do with ATF. Thank you
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 04:40
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:There we go, I knew it had something to do with ATF. Thank you I haven't used it myself, but I hear it's a creepy bastard. What kind of bolt are you dealing with here?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 04:45
|
|
|
It'll also melt through a small plastic spray bottle. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 04:46
|
|
|
Godholio posted:It'll also melt through a small plastic spray bottle.  I figured it wasn't friendly, but is it safe to handle? Boaz MacPhereson posted:I haven't used it myself, but I hear it's a creepy bastard. Spring bolts on the exhaust manifold flange of a 06 Scion xA I was ready to cut them out, I was so frustrated, but I could barely get a dremel past the front subframe, let alone a drill
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 04:59
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:
Sure. ATF is fine, acetone is fine, blended they're fine. Just very good at dissolving a lot of different kinds of plastic. I would think ordinary polyethylene bottles should handle it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 05:02
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Sure. ATF is fine, acetone is fine, blended they're fine. Just very good at dissolving a lot of different kinds of plastic. I would think ordinary polyethylene bottles should handle it. Ok, good. Completely honest, you can tell me that ATF is full of fluoric acid and I wouldn't bat an eye. Automatic transmissions are both tremendously boring and complicated, so I haven't bothered to learn much about them
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 05:11
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:Ok, good. ATF is just oil, basically, with additives.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 05:16
|
|
|
What's the best way to become a mechanic officially? I've done some work on my own cars using service manuals, and I've spent the past few months working at a chain shop that does the absolute basics (oil changes, tire mounts/installations, batteries, that kind of stuff) but they don't get deeper into actual mechanical work. I think I want to end up in diesel mechanic work if I need to pick a specialty since trucks and buses will last the longest (whether or not they have drivers), but what's the best way to get started? Should I study for ASE tests and pass them? Take some kind of college/vocational courses? Do shops still have actual apprenticeships where I could get in just on the barebones tire/oil experience and a functioning brain? Sentient Data fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Dec 7, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 05:44
|
|
|
Sentient Data posted:What's the best way to become a mechanic officially? Substance abuse.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 06:28
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Substance abuse. I think you have cause and effect switched here.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 15:14
|
|
|
More dumb oil questions because oil is a mystery fluid that is made of magic. I'm looking to change the oil in my '81 X1/9 and Xweb has been largely... unhelpful. Some people say to use 15w-40 full synthetic with a ZDDP additive, others claim that ZDDP is snake oil that was made obsolete by modern synthetic oils, some say to use 10w-30 synthetic blend diesel oil, others say that synthetics shouldn't be used in classics at all unless the gaskets have been upgraded and to just use grade 3 conventional oil of whatever is in the manual for your production year. I just want to know what kind of oil goes into my loving car and the consensus from the experts appears to be "  lol." Even google just links me to classic car forums of people arguing back and forth, and a couple of articles that share the " lol" attitude and say maybe this and maybe thatSo assuming that I get the proper weight oil for my temperature needs, what kind do I use? And if I do go synthetic, do I need to run a few thousand on a synth bled to "flush out" conventional contaminants or is that more broscience? The 81 is the fuel injected engine, if that makes a difference
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 21:57
|
|
|
Partial or full synthetic just means it lasts longer. If you go 3-5k with standard, you can probably go 7k with blend and 10k with full synthetic. Hit the minimum standards recommended by the OM and you're good. Anything better than that is gravy. Considering it's an '81 X1/9, the motor oil is going to be least of your concerns. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 22:02
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Partial or full synthetic just means it lasts longer. If you go 3-5k with standard, you can probably go 7k with blend and 10k with full synthetic. Which is why I was so frustrated, the oil threads had so many jokes about lubricating the outside of the engine, but few conclusive answers. Do classic cars need Zinc additives at all?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 22:12
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:Which is why I was so frustrated, the oil threads had so many jokes about lubricating the outside of the engine, but few conclusive answers. Do classic cars need Zinc additives at all? Probably not. Engine wear comes from a lot of sources, and reduction in ZPPD in recent years may be just a convenient whipping boy for engine builders. I'm not aware of any actual studies or statistics on it, just word of mouth stuff. The wear area in question seems to be specifically flat tappet lifters. I don't know what engine an X1/9 uses and if it's got them. If it uses roller lifters, you're home free. In any case, modern oils are probably fine as is. If you're really concerned, you may want to seek out some classic car oil that is specifically SA, SB, or whatever the SAE standard was when your car was made and the OM recommends. Then you're safe. I wouldn't recommend an additive in any case, because too much ZDDP causes excessive wear as well.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 22:23
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:Which is why I was so frustrated, the oil threads had so many jokes about lubricating the outside of the engine, but few conclusive answers. Do classic cars need Zinc additives at all? I couldn't say with regards to "classic cars" but I know that it makes a great difference in wear on old (70's) motorcycle (Honda CB's) engines. Single-overhead cam, inline 4, flat tappet, 8v, monkey metal abuse machines.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 22:59
|
|
|
I settled on Valvoline VR-1 "racing" oil of the appropriate weight for my lebaron when I had to dive down that same rabbit hole for the same reason. Good lab test results from the used oil when I turned in a batch; I stuck with frequent changes following the car's heavy use guidelines (since it's hot here with tons of stop-and-go), and it worked perfectly
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 23:07
|
|
|
It's an all aluminum SOHC engine that as far as I can tell has flat tappets, so yes to ZDDP oils?
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 23:47
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:It's an all aluminum SOHC engine that as far as I can tell has flat tappets, so yes to ZDDP oils? I run rotella in my flat tappets. Seems to do the trick.
|
|
#
?
Dec 7, 2016 23:57
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:It's an all aluminum SOHC engine that as far as I can tell has flat tappets, so yes to ZDDP oils? Maybe this will do the trick: https://www.hemmings.com/classicoil/
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 00:01
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:Any tips on how to remove rusted bolts where you can't get a torch in? I know where the bolt your talking about is. Some map or propane on the part where the threads are and some leverage will get you a long way. This coming from a mechanic who deals with Chicago area plow vehicles. Heat it with map for a long time. If your worried about any 02 sensor wires near it wrap them in aluminum foil. Trust me heat goes where you tell it. I've done what you need to do And it's a full bitch but possible with heat.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 01:02
|
|
|
Jose Cuervo posted:Posted this is the Stupid/Small Questions megathread and was advised to post it here instead. To follow up on this, in Virginia a late model vehicle is defined in § 46.2-1600 as "the current-year model of a vehicle and the five preceding model years, or any vehicle whose actual cash value is determined to have been at least $10,000 prior to being damaged.". Then § 46.2-1603 part D states that "Every insurance company or its authorized agent shall notify the Department of each late model vehicle titled in the Commonwealth on which a claim for damage to the vehicle has been paid by the insurance company if (i) the estimated cost of repair exceeds seventy-five percent of actual cash value of the vehicle and (ii) the vehicle is to be retained by its owner." After calling the DMV I was informed that, IF State Farm chooses to report the total loss to the DMV, then the DMV will contact me with the steps I need to take to take (first obtaining a salvage certificate, then getting a inspection through the DMV to make sure the car has been repaired to roadworthiness). However, I can go ahead and get the car repaired and continue driving it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 01:03
|
|
|
The Door Frame posted:It's an all aluminum SOHC engine that as far as I can tell has flat tappets, so yes to ZDDP oils? Yes. Bunch of people on classic car boards have wiped lobes on flat tappet cams using modern oils. Using diesel oil with CI or CJ certification (high zinc/phosphorus content) is also common because the oils targeted at this market are overpriced. I use Mobil Delvac 1300 in my 66 Corvette, after sending a clean sample to be analyzed to get the no-poo poo content breakdown. Blackstone Labs actually guessed what I was doing and said it was a good choice.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 02:40
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I run rotella in my flat tappets. Seems to do the trick. Well it is choc full o zinc so I'd say yeah it's great. Also it is perfect for breaking in a freshly rebuilt motorcycle engine.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 02:43
|
|
|
Any word on if rotella dropped the zinc content, and to what amount? I know I have to use GL-4 transmission oil because the EP additives in GL-5 break down into corrosive sulfur components. Fine on any modern transmission, but old dogs on VW gears, and the shared diff components, are made with yellow brass and high copper content metals, which are incompatible.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 02:51
|
|
|
Goons help me out, 2006 Kia Sorento 151k miles, V6 RWD. I'm trying to decide if it's either the Heater core itself or the Thermostat that may have locked open. When I gas it over 3k RPM, I get heat, but cruising under that and the heat cuts out and it shifts to cold(er) air. A/C on or off, Internal air loop on or off doesn't make a difference. Also on the same vehicle, the cruise controls are steering wheel mounted, on the right side of the airbag, while the radio controls are on the left. Radio controls work fine, cruise works sometimes if I mash the button like hell. I'm leaning towards a loose connection/broken wire, but what to gauge opinions before I haul it down to a shop (because fuuuck tearing that dashboard apart myself) Thanks in advance.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 05:30
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:Any word on if rotella dropped the zinc content, and to what amount? I have not heard that. If you're curious enough, you can send some to Blackstone for an analysis. Here's my result from the Mobil Delvac: 
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 05:39
|
|
|
T6 is supposed to have 1200ppm. Energy conserving oils are limited to 600ppm, and I think under 40wt (api-4 or whatever), it's limited to 800ppm. Latest Blackstone reports from bobistheoilguy show t6 having both 1060ppm, and 1241 ppm, depending on the user, but the newest I could find for each was 2011. Rumor, maybe.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 06:04
|
|
|
Some of you may have seen my posts about the lab's work truck in other threads. Short version: 2007 Ford F150 4x4 XLT (with about 200 000 km on the odo), and we drove her through so much mud last summer that her transmission overheated and must be replaced, along with the transmission cooler and some other things:Metro Ford posted:Vehicle need new transmission, transmission cooler, master brake cylinder, left front axle IWE solenoid , front drive shaft vacuum line ,and valve. We (my boss and I) are trying to figure out what to do for a field work vehicle next summer. This truck is the most convenient option - as a university-owned vehicle she'd be available when we need her and pickup / return is very, very easy. Insurance and getting as many people as possible on our field team set up as drivers is also easiest with this truck. We use the truck all summer (late-April to early-September) and another prof at the university uses this truck during the off-season. We put about 5000 km on her every summer, the other prof around 3000 km the other 7.5 months of the year. Her high mileage mostly comes from a few years ago when she was driven around 20K per year. Our other option is a rental through the university, which would cost about $5000 and have a slightly higher difficulty of getting all of our drivers sorted out on it, and we don't know for sure how the insurance is going to work. The question I've been asked, as the most car-enthusiastic person here, is: Other Prof who uses the truck posted:What does your car-wise HQP think about the likelihood of repairs costing >$5K over the next year assuming we put a similar amount of km on it over the next year?? So, those of you with experience of 10-year-old pickup trucks 'Built Ford Tough', any thoughts?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 16:08
|
|
|
The clutch pedal is on the floor and my transmission is stuck in a forward gear on my 1988 Ford F150. Does that sound like the clutch master cylinder went out?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 19:22
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:The clutch pedal is on the floor and my transmission is stuck in a forward gear on my 1988 Ford F150. Does that sound like the clutch master cylinder went out? Very much so. Can you shift it if you shut the engine off and let everything spin down?
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 19:48
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Very much so. Can you shift it if you shut the engine off and let everything spin down? I just went up the street to pick it up where I parked it last night after it started acting up. Some fucker clipped and broke my side mirror. Didn't even leave a note. To be fair though, that mirror was already cracked. I've been thinking about replacing all 3 mirrors for months now since that one was cracked and the other 2 are losing their mirror coating. Time to buy myself a Christmas present! Anyway, I was able to pick the pedal up off the floor and it stayed in place. I was able to shift it and drive it home, but I noticed that the clutch pedal was slow in returning to the up position. I'm not sure what I should replace though. The master cylinder? Slave? Both? I'm looking online at pictures of them, and I see that some master cylinders have the hose built into the master cylinder if you buy the master and slave as a kit. My stock master cylinder is like that. I guess if I buy them separate, then I need to buy the hose too, right? Also, since these cylinders are hydraulic, do I have to prime them first like a brake master cylinder? Edit: according to my Haynes book, the hose was integrated into the master cylinder on 1987 and prior models, then were separate afterward. I probably got a leftover. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Dec 8, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 20:02
|
|
|
I looked at - but never bought - a replacement slave for my Ranger and it seemed like many of them actually shipped pre-bled. At least on the Ranger they're a loving nightmare to bleed because it's in the goddamn bellhousing. I never did bleed mine, but any time it got soft you could sort of work around it by putting the trans in neutral and just side-stepping the clutch once or twice. It'd firm the pedal right back up.
|
|
#
?
Dec 8, 2016 20:09
|
|
|
I usually don't work on my own cars (uncle is a mechanic, I let him handle that) but I'd like to replace an easy part on my Ford Focus. Any recommended places to buy parts online, are they all mostly the same or should I get it from my local dealer service department?
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 03:35
|
|
|
Rockauto Also depends on what kind of quality you're wanting to go with. The dealer parts will usually be the highest quality (with laughably high prices), but Rockauto often carries OEM stuff (Motorcraft is OEM for Ford).
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 03:38
|
|
|
FCKGW posted:I usually don't work on my own cars (uncle is a mechanic, I let him handle that) but I'd like to replace an easy part on my Ford Focus. Any recommended places to buy parts online, are they all mostly the same or should I get it from my local dealer service department? What year/engine? Some stuff for 2000-2007s is starting to dry up outside of dealership/official Ford parts suppliers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 03:50
|
|
|
Geoj posted:What year/engine? Some stuff for 2000-2007s is starting to dry up outside of dealership/official Ford parts suppliers. 2008 Focus Auto, only one engine I think. Bad ignition switch or housing, haven't tested it yet, but likely the whole housing needs replacement. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Rockauto Rockauto pricing seems to be around where I saw most prices at so I may go there.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 03:57
|
|
|
FCKGW posted:2008 Focus Auto, only one engine I think. Bad ignition switch or housing, haven't tested it yet, but likely the whole housing needs replacement. Ignition switch, or lock cylinder? I can't recall if the 2008-11s were affected but there was a major issue with the first generation (at least through 2005/6) having jamming ignition lock cylinders. If this is the case you'll probably want to go through a dealer because they can sell you a replacement cylinder pre-keyed to your car based on the VIN.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 04:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 01:48 |
|
|
FCKGW posted:2008 Focus Auto, only one engine I think. Bad ignition switch or housing, haven't tested it yet, but likely the whole housing needs replacement. Good strategy for Rockauto: get part numbers there and check prices on amazon.
|
|
#
?
Dec 9, 2016 04:12
|
|