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Metal Geir Skogul posted:E: watching GitS for the first time in, jeeze, maybe 13 years? New movie trailer disgusted me, so I decided to break my self-imposed animuuuuu ban that's been in place since maybe 2008, under the pretense of enjoying an older classic. Not knowing the scale, as little as $34 or as much as $270
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Nov 22, 2016 16:49
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Judging by the size of the Tachikomas, probably the $270 dollar one. Yesterday, the new exhaust and window came in. Today, before I started cooking thanksgiving dinner, I decided to tackle those two things. First, the exhaust. I cut some metal stock, and welded in some reinforcing bits.     (believe it or not, most of that spatter is stock) Also, this next picture is ugly, beware. I couldn't find any grinding drums for my dremel, and the angle grinder blade wouldn't fit in. So, sorry in advance. I welded in a tab and hook on the far side of the exhaust, and drilled a hole in the bumper bracket. The I used part of a spring from an old couch I threw away a few weeks ago. Hope this will also reduce stress on the whole shebang.  While cleaning up from that job, the sliding door fell off the track again when I closed it. This happens way too often. The stock roller has a squared groove, but all of the replacement rollers I buy don't fit the actual door. I did find a V-groove roller in the right size, and I've been using that. But, slamming it would cause it to jump off of the track. I think this might take care of it for awhile. I slammed it hard a few times to test, and it seems okay.   The Girlfriend came out to see what was up, and I somehow conned her into installing the window.  (All the streaks are from soapy water. So much soapy water, and hitting the bus, and hammering on the bus, and pulling and grunting and yelling). Yes, I still plan on possible metal plates instead of windows, but I need to be driving the bus this week. I did make a tracing on a large bit of cardboard, and took measurements, for future metal purchases. Now, I'm finally cooking. 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 01:55
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Having a window is good, food is good.
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Nov 27, 2016 08:51
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Yeah. I should clarify, I mean I conned her into assisting the window install (definitely a 2 person job, minimum), and on the pulley, I ground the V groove into that flat sided groove profile, to assist in keeping it on the track. The broken window was the original Sekurit. Hopefully this one lasts nearly half as long. Need to adjust the cold weather idle. Tends to dip down until it warms up. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 09:23 on Nov 27, 2016 |
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Nov 27, 2016 09:17
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Drove the bus around a bit, so far the cv axle bolts are tight, with the nord locks. We'll see after a long freeway drive, not going to hold my breath. I also vacuumed the poo poo out of the bus and beetle, washed the windows of both, and put a carpet remnant on the floor of the bus, instead of the plastic workshop floor squares. Blurry cellphone pics ahoy!  I also replaced a few of the clamps on the intake hoses with some new ones. One of them was stripped out and wouldn't tighten. I think maybe I solved my loping idle issue? We'll see when the bus cools down again. I also ran some kerosene through the diesel heater to clean it out. Campout awhile back and it was pouring white smoke before starting up, a sign of carbon clogging. Kerosene allegedly burns hotter (but puts out less BTUs into the system of the eberspacher, if that makes sense), and should clean it up. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Nov 28, 2016 |
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Nov 28, 2016 01:24
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Nov 28, 2016 21:07
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I REALLY LIKE REBUILDING A DISTRIBUTOR IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NIGHT ON THE SIDE OF THE FREEWAY E: condenser poo poo itself. Always carry a spare, yes, but another pertronix will be on order Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Nov 30, 2016 |
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Nov 30, 2016 11:01
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Following the stranding day before last, I attempted to drive the bus to work. It seemed fine on surface streets, but the moment I hit the onramp to the freeway, it bucked and shook and banged. It then wouldn't idle. I limped it home, and took the beetle. We did a super long ambulance transport from Phoenix to LA yesterday, so I didn't get back until around 4 AM. However, I found the time to pull the distributor again. Points looked good, and it had the replacement condenser. I tried moving the advance mechanism, though, and discovered that it rattles. I don't think they should rattle. It's the stock dvda with the retard can removed and replaced with a svda vacuum can. Unfortunately, the DVDA dizzys are riveted together, so disassembly to repair whatever has a high chance of never leading to reassembly. I've always wanted to go to electronic points like I did with the beetle. I tried last year, but it was an off-brand, and it burned out on the freeway. So, time to save up for a legit pertronix. The retrofit kit is $100, or a whole dizzy is $150. Next payday, I'll pick up these. For whatever reason, Amazon is cheaper than any parts house. Anymore I just use rockauto for part numbers, and amazon for purchasing.  Stock coil is probably still good, but you never gently caress around with ignition parts. Any old parts become "known good" spares. I also realize now that, even though the carb was excellent right after the engine swap, for 500 miles, I've spent the recent 50 miles or so pulling over and loving with the carb trying to get it to idle right. When you think it's carb, it's electrical, and vice versa. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Dec 1, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 21:54
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Hey, I got home on time tonight! So, I took the distributor from the beetle, and put it on the bus, just for kicks. Set the timing, and the bus runs like a top. So, yeah, it's the stupid distributor. I even used the bus's cap and rotor, just to check. Then, I put the distributor back on the beetle, and set timing with the timing light I always keep in the frunk (everybody has a separate timing light for all of their vehicles, right?), and put the busted-rear end one back. I don't know why I didn't think to do that last night or the night before, but maybe a 12-hour drive clouded my judgement.
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Dec 2, 2016 10:38
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My timing light is still in the blisterpack it came in 5 years ago. 
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Dec 2, 2016 13:35
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Fermented Tinal posted:My timing light is still in the blisterpack it came in 5 years ago. And mine lives in my trunk for just-in-case, despite the inductive clamp being melted one time too many. What's your point?
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Dec 2, 2016 13:42
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Some of us never have to muck with timing often enough to really justify having one, let alone one for each vehicle.
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Dec 2, 2016 13:47
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Good job figuring it out!
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Dec 2, 2016 15:41
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Okay for the record, Fermented Tinal was a super, duper awesome AI SS and got me a pertronix igniter II distributor and coil. Just got to say that, because that's awesome. Today, I went out to install the pertronix distributor. It went in as smoothly as you could expect, but there were a few hiccups. The rotor in the pertronix is about 40 degrees tilted in reference to the distributor gear versus the stock SVDA, so to get the timing in the right ballpark, you have to really crank the distributor around to the left, which causes one of the distributor spring clamps to foul on the oil pressure/gauge sender. To fix this, I pulled a clamp from the old dizzy, because it was much lower profile, and put it on the new one. Clearance issue solved. Started up the bus, was still a little stumbly, but at least it idled, versus what happened two days ago where I had to keep it revved up to prevent stalling. Took it out for a spin, got around the block a few times, and it slowly starts losing power, and acts like it's only running on, eventually, two cylinders, with "chuffs" and pops in-between. Uh oh. I try to get it home, but end up pushing it for a few hundred feet because it won't run or get any power on two (or maybe one?) cylinder. I immediately started diagnosing. Checked power connections to the new distributor, still good. Tried using the old distributor (rebuilt from parts, now), no good. Maybe fouled spark plugs? Cue me going to the parts store down the street in the beetle for no less than three separate trips trying to buy the correct plugs. First ones said they'd fit, but the terminals didn't unscrew (bullshit Champions, but I needed plugs right then). They didn't have the NGKs or the Bosch plugs I wanted in stock, or even nearly any equivalents. Found some autolites, but in my haste driving the block or three home, I didn't open them. Too short. Eventually, I went online again, did some of my own cross-referencing (Bosch W8CC to an NGK plug that doesn't exist anymore to another autolite that doesn't exist anymore up to a modern NGK that DOES exist and they DO have in stock), back to the store with that number, new plugs. Even though the old plugs looked okay, I probably needed new ones anyway, especially since this is a new engine. No harm, no foul. Took the old plugs out, they looked dirty, and one of them had some minor oil fouling above the threads on the ceramic, but nothing major at all. New plugs in with new dizzy, no dice, still chuffing along on what felt like only one cylinder, based on the exhaust header heat. So, I started measuring the resistance of the spark plug wires. They're suppression wires. All were around 1.7k except the shortest, #4, plug wire. That one was around 8k. So, back online to search for any stores that may have plug wires. I should probably replace them anyway. Only wires I could find at any parts store were way in East Mesa, about 30 miles away, but the sun was going down and I didn't have time to waste. Drive there, spend another $30 I really shouldn't, drive back. Install wires (they look pretty sharp tbh), still no dice. Now, the last thing I had done to the bus before all of this, was adjust the hydraulic valves. They're supposed to be adjusted from the engine rebuilder, but it had been about 300 miles since the new engine, and that's about the right time to give everything a once-over. The week prior to this, I had re-adjusted the hydraulic valves to 1.5 turns in from contact. But maybe, just maybe, I had forgotten to tighten up a locknut or something. Cue me in the parking lot of our townhouse complex at 8 PM lying on my side, turning the engine over with a I was thinking at this point, you know, the carburetor has been gummy and oily ever since the old engine started eating itself. Maybe I should give it a good strip down and clean. It had been the bane of my existence ever since the cold weather hit, and I had been meaning to. I pulled the carburetor, took it inside, and completely stripped it down to the jets. I gave everything a good scrub and washout, threw a few of the smaller parts into the ultrasonic cleaner (even though they appeared spotless, what could it hurt?), and reassembled. I even discovered an error I had made when assembling the linkage last time, which had inadvertently been causing me to have a wandering idle issue for months and months (choke return spring was pinched in the main throttle mechanism, so it would stop to idle high, but when vibrated or tapped it would drop down to normal idle, which was then usually too low because I had been adjusting it for the false high idle)! Feeling good, I took the carburetor back outside, re-installed, set up the linkages again (because I had to correct for the previous error), and gave it a whirl. Chug-chug-chug-chug-BANG-chuff-pop-dead. Still on one/two cylinders, tops. A bunch of small random troubleshooting followed. Ran the igniter straight from battery (just in case it drew a poo poo-ton of power or something), cleaned and re-oiled both distributors, and even tried the pertronix igniter inside the old distributor, in case that twist in the drive was causing a mixup. Still no dice. I've spent ten hours on this thing already, but no dice! I start contemplating the craigslist/thesamba selling price. But then, I get a crazy idea. I pull one of the two spare sets of condenser/points I have in the glove box (always have a set on you), and put them in the new distributor. I set static timing, click my emergency battery over to the main with the "emergency self-jumpstart" switch I have installed (main battery was dipping from all of the start attempts), and fire it up. BOOM! Bus starts up easily, first turn of the key. I run back, set the timing by ear just to let it idle, and then pull the timing light and set vacuum-free timing for real. Holy loving hell, that was a long day. Diagnosis: the electronic igniter died. Just bad luck, because it ran fine for a few minutes, if a little shaky, before giving up the ghost. No magic smoke, so I'm assuming it's a manufacturing error. I had this happen with the beetle once (second one has been strong for nearly three years now), and with the bus once. Must be the nature of the product or something, because reviews are full of similar things, for all aftermarket igniters, from all brands. I've sent an email to pertronix, and they'll probably exchange it. Still, the old distributor is broken mechanically inside (no advance, vacuum or centrifugal), and, measuring the resistance of the old coil, I picked up only 900 milliohms, where it used to be 3 ohms when new. Definitely needed a new coil, too bad I have no idea how long it had been like that. I have a feeling that, maybe, the coil internally shorting slowly started killing the plug wires (new, August last year) and causing issues with the rotor/cap/plugs/points/condenser. That, coupled with the mechanical failure the other night, was the final straw for something in the system. Using the beetle's distributor probably just gave the Coil of Death some fresh meat in the form of a new set of points and condenser, and let my test pass the day before yesterday. I probably would have been stranded again if I had tried driving on it. Also, maybe not out of the realm of possibility that the bucking and backfiring and extra pitting on the rotor/cap may have led to the distributor's death. It was very old and rusty, and I was running it with a combination of hope and a hefty dose of Kroil spray every 10k or so, since I picked up the bus from that forest in Portland last year. Lucky I made it this far, I guess. tl;dr: I got to spend a healthy day doing much-needed routine maintenance. Plugs/wires/distributor [cap]/coil/points/condenser/valve adjust/carburetor clean. The method and reasoning behind today's maintenance omnibus is weird and backwards, but now it pulls like a scalded cat, which it has never done before. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Dec 4, 2016 |
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Dec 4, 2016 07:57
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Also, I'm thinking about designing a 3D printed firewall mount for the coil, to get it off of the vibrating engine. Any ideas other than a basic can with screw mounts? Designs? Words? Latticework? Want to challenge myself.
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Dec 4, 2016 08:54
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 Sorry for my gift ruining your plug wires.At least you have a gift receipt, surely amazon can do a next-day exchange.
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Dec 4, 2016 09:01
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Oh no, your gift saved it. It was the old coil that did that. The old coil would have probably killed it if I hadn't swapped both out at once, too. Whoops, didn't mean to imply that it damaged anything  Since I'm using the distributor part, I'll do the igniter exchange through pertronix. They've done it twice with me in the past.
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Dec 4, 2016 09:05
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So, it's running?
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Dec 4, 2016 09:06
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Yes  . Bus is running, actually with the "custom advance curve" on the pertronix flamethrower distributor, like a raped ape! Just, on points. But a quality distributor itself is like $110-130, and I'll eventually get a replacement electronic points "igniter" from pertronix, so it's all good.Haven't even gotten it up to full temp yet in this cold (around 40 in Phoenix right now, which is cold for our fair-weather Arizona vehicles and Arizona-specific tunes) and it runs like a dream. Tomorrow when it's warmer I'll take it out for a 10-20 mile jaunt, just to test, and then I think it's good to go back in service.
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Dec 4, 2016 09:20
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Here's the draft I have for the coil mount: Besides the standard "four parallel grooves" that I put in everything, I don't know how else to tart it up.
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Dec 4, 2016 09:39
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I don't know how else to tart it up.  
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Dec 4, 2016 09:48
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I've always wanted to go to electronic points like I did with the beetle. I tried last year, but it was an off-brand, and it burned out on the freeway. So, time to save up for a legit pertronix. The retrofit kit is $100, or a whole dizzy is $150. Next payday, I'll pick up these. For whatever reason, Amazon is cheaper than any parts house. Anymore I just use rockauto for part numbers, and amazon for purchasing. I learned this a long time ago. Oftentimes the initial price on Rockauto is cheaper than Amazon, but once you add in shipping, it's either a wash or Amazon is cheaper, and Amazon can usually get it to you a lot faster. Then I'll cross-shop against Advance Auto Parts, since I have 2 locations within 15 minutes of me, and there's always at least a 25% off coupon online. And you can often stack coupons. The Wholesaler Closeouts on Rockauto can't really be beat though.
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Dec 4, 2016 12:54
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 this bus is amazing and makes me sad all Chicago area specimens are rust dust or $$$$$$$$
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Dec 4, 2016 17:36
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I learned this a long time ago. Oftentimes the initial price on Rockauto is cheaper than Amazon, but once you add in shipping, it's either a wash or Amazon is cheaper, and Amazon can usually get it to you a lot faster. Then I'll cross-shop against Advance Auto Parts, since I have 2 locations within 15 minutes of me, and there's always at least a 25% off coupon online. And you can often stack coupons. I've actually had some Rockauto shipments effectively go overnight when they come from a local warehouse. Only problem is I never know which warehouse it's coming from. Rockauto ends up cheaper as long as what you need comes from one warehouse. Once you start eating multiple shipping fees, the savings vs Amazon go away.
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Dec 4, 2016 18:51
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've actually had some Rockauto shipments effectively go overnight when they come from a local warehouse. Only problem is I never know which warehouse it's coming from. Lately with military discount, oreilly has been cheaper for everything i've needed than rockauto after shipping gets added.
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Dec 4, 2016 19:01
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My thermostat was $44 after international shipping from rockauto, it was $70 on amazon.ca and amazon.com wouldn't ship it to me without going through a vendor asking more than the local Napa. Took a week to arrive though.
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Dec 4, 2016 19:18
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iwentdoodie posted:Lately with military discount, oreilly has been cheaper for everything i've needed than rockauto after shipping gets added. I always forget to ask  I do wish their website wasn't as poo poo, though. Crashes, forgets what vehicle you've selected, and loses its poo poo when you have multiple tabs open. At least it's not as bad as Autozone's, though. If Autozone doesn't have the part you're searching for in stock, they automatically send your search to the first part they do. That's annoying as poo poo. Searching "NGK B5ES" brings me to an incompatible Champion plug page. No way to see all the search results without just searching for a vague term like "NGK" first, clicking "NGK" on the left bar under "filter results," THEN searching for "B5ES" in that page. Those results show that it's out of stock in the store I've selected. If I change to a store that has it, then do the search again, it shows up at the top of a results listing. "Smart" search results just ruin everything.
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Dec 4, 2016 20:19
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Here's the draft I have for the coil mount: Make a deep 3D "COIL" running vertically with the hole through it. Repeat for next component so everything ends up labelled clearly 
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Dec 4, 2016 20:33
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Dec 4, 2016 20:49
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Just got done spending four hours or so tracking down oil leaks etc. Past few days sitting, the bus has created about a one foot circle of oil, clearly growing by the day. Not any worse while driving, so it had to be something sitting under the oil line. One of the pushrod tubes, the exact same one I tried fixing three weeks or so ago, was leaking. I had fixed it last time by putting new seals in it, cleaning out the pushrod tube hole in the block, and using a good amount of black RTV. Online you've got an even 50/50 split of people that say "NO SEALANT THAT IS WHAT THE ORIGINAL SUPERIOR GERMAN ENGINEERING CALLED FOR WHEN IT WAS ASSEMBLED FORTY YEARS AGO" and the other half going "yeah, why not?" I chose the third path, that is sometimes recommended by the Beetle/Type 1 Engine crowd: seal it from the outside by draining the oil, cleaning the surfaces with carb cleaner, and smattering half a tube of black (and then copper) RTV over the top. This is often a "solution" done by the Type 1 owners, because their pushrod tubes have to be cut to be removed, and to install new OE style tubes, you have to remove the heads. The Type 4 engines, like on my bus, have pushrod tubes that can slide out of the heads by removing only the rocker arms, so people (rightfully) recommend pulling the tubes and sealing them that way. However, I had done that just less than a month ago, and I had also just adjusted all of the valves (twice!) so there was no ticking. I had also pulled them and done new seals, and I am out of both money and seals at the moment ($4/pop individually). So, I drained the oil, tipped the driver's side of the bus up with a jack and stand, and cleaned the outside of the tube seal with carb cleaner. I did my best to dry it with rags on the tip of a screwdriver, and let it air out. Then, a thin coating of black RTV, 30 minutes to let it skin up, another thicker coating of black RTV, another 30 minutes, and a final coating of ultra copper. Not for any reason, but I was out of black RTV. Next time, I'll use Great Stuff. The little spray can I got for AI:SS last year lasted me a few months, and I do really believe it seals up nicely. It also dries much more quickly, and I feel it has a tougher bond. I even used some as panel sealant in lieu of 3M sealer the last time I welded, and it has held up excellently.
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Dec 5, 2016 00:55
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cakesmith handyman posted:Make a deep 3D "COIL" running vertically with the hole through it. Repeat for next component so everything ends up labelled clearly 
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Dec 5, 2016 01:03
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Have a guy, wants to trade his 96 I6 F150 for my beetle. Assuming all's in good condition, any other gotchas other than an internal clutch slave I've got to look out for? I need a truck, the beetle is playing knock knock jokes (well, pattycake slapping) on cold startups, and something I could slowly tow the bus with is a plus. I always ask "clean title, passes emissions, burns oil, and pictures"? But other than that? E: I've priced the beetle at 3700, assuming it's actually worth 3k. Smaller trucks are retarded prices down here in AZ, and even dumber up north where my parents live. Like, 4-6k. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Dec 9, 2016 |
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Dec 9, 2016 06:52
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4.9L and ZF is shy of unkillable. good year for obdII reasons too. probably the last for the 4.9L which is one of fords best engines imo. 4x4 or 2x4? not that it matters a lot.
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Dec 9, 2016 07:02
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The only real parts we sell for those trucks is basic maintenence and generic old vehicle issues type parts which you should be used to anyways.
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Dec 9, 2016 07:14
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A 4.9L man-tran OBDII F150 is the only cheap truck I would've rather had than my Ranger, but they're rare as hell. Unless the thing is utter poo poo, sounds like a deal.
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Dec 9, 2016 07:15
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What if it's really a 95 when I get there in person? Less desirable due to no obdii?
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Dec 9, 2016 07:24
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Yes, for me at least. After dealing with trying to get my Volvo through emissions, a car had better be drat awesome for me to buy anything pre-OBDII again. You can know for sure before you go whether or not it will pass, and you can diagnose it more easily. Of course old Fords are picky with the cloned ELM327s out there, but still better than OBDI or non-OBD.
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Dec 9, 2016 08:06
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cursedshitbox posted:4.9L and ZF is shy of unkillable. good year for obdII reasons too. probably the last for the 4.9L which is one of fords best engines imo. Definitely the last year of the 4.9 in the F-150. They went to a 4.2 V6 for the 97+. I would assume there's a few 96-specific parts on it, but mostly because it's the only OBD2 year of that generation and engine. The ECU is certainly 96 4.9 specific, same with the engine harness... they probably had to add a couple of sensors, but they'd be shared with other models. Ford was as good/bad as GM when it came to parts binning sensors and a lot of electrical stuff. But yeah, short of an EMF blast, that thing will still be roaming the earth long after all of us are dead. I agree with CSB about that drivetrain being one of the best. Expect a ton of play in the steering. Seriously. Some of it can be taken care of by adjusting the steering box, but you'll eventually need to replace the box at some point (if you don't want to see-saw the wheel constantly anyway). My stepdad's old 92 (same gen) had about half a turn of the wheel before anything happened. And I'm sure you've heard about how noisy Ford power steering pumps are - it WILL make a lot of noise, so long as it still does its job and has fluid in it, you can ignore the whining. That generation is still pretty drat simple to work on, my only gripe is they still used vacuum-controlled HVAC poo poo (so listen for a hissing under the dash I guess?). See if the a/c works, but even if it doesn't, I don't think even an evaporator replacement is that bad of a job on those. The 95 would indeed be less desirable simply because they're a bit more difficult to diagnose without OBD2, but IIRC you can hook up a test light to a port and pull codes that way? Maybe even get the CEL to flash the codes for you.
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Dec 9, 2016 08:54
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Ya, if pre-obdii it should flash codes.
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Dec 9, 2016 13:27
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Nth-ing the love for the 300+MT. That cockroach will run forever. Being in AZ, I assume rust is minimal so I'd be seriously considering that truck if I were you.
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Dec 9, 2016 16:51
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