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Geoj posted:Ignition switch, or lock cylinder? 2008 on had a redesigned switch. Earlier models had an issue with the tumbler itself. My case the key moves freely but it does not engage the ignition switch, so either the switch is bad or the pin is not being pressed into the switch from the tumbler (most likely). Basically the exact problem this guy was having: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/general-technical-chat/309714-steering-column-ingition-problem-solved.html
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Dec 9, 2016 04:14
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FCKGW posted:2008 Focus Auto, only one engine I think. Bad ignition switch or housing, haven't tested it yet, but likely the whole housing needs replacement. Like Boaz said, use Rockauto to look up part numbers for Amazon too. If you have Amazon Prime, you may be able to get the part a lot faster for about the same price. Maybe a little more, but if you need the part right away, Prime shipping makes it a hell of a lot cheaper to get it in 1 or 2 days (or sometimes same day if you order really early in the morning). Quality varies among the 3rd party manufacturers, but Dorman sometimes engineers fixes for a design defect into the part. Also Amazon is a lot easier to do returns with. Might try ordering both parts, and sending back whichever one you wind up not needing. You eat the return shipping (so $5-10), but at least you have both possible parts on hand. My 1980 Ford did the same thing, symptom wise.  Except in my case the end of the lock cylinder (the part that actually turned the switch itself) snapped off. They've changed things a bit since then, but it was the same symptoms - key just spun and spun without doing anything. Never change, Ford!Geoj posted:I can't recall if the 2008-11s were affected but there was a major issue with the first generation (at least through 2005/6) having jamming ignition lock cylinders. If this is the case you'll probably want to go through a dealer because they can sell you a replacement cylinder pre-keyed to your car based on the VIN. Different issue as they said, but this hit a coworker's 1st gen Focus in the parking lot at work once. Both of us tried for a good half hour to get it unjammed. It was a manual transmission car, so the only thing that should have been able to hang it up was the steering wheel lock. It wound up having to get towed to a shop, and yeah.... jammed cylinder. New cylinder fixed it.
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Dec 9, 2016 04:35
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Different issue as they said, but this hit a coworker's 1st gen Focus in the parking lot at work once. Both of us tried for a good half hour to get it unjammed. It was a manual transmission car, so the only thing that should have been able to hang it up was the steering wheel lock. It wound up having to get towed to a shop, and yeah.... jammed cylinder. New cylinder fixed it. Usually you could fix this with a few hours, corded drill and 5-6 drill bits run straight through the tumblers. Guess I got lucky - mine will turn 15 in June and the factory ignition cylinder has never given me any issues.
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Dec 9, 2016 04:59
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Now that you've said that, it will, invariably when you're running late to work.
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Dec 9, 2016 05:54
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Good strategy for Rockauto: get part numbers there and check prices on amazon. better strat: order one thing and use your 20% off coupon on a large order of poo poo you actually need. Spend $5 in shipping save $100 in parts.
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Dec 9, 2016 07:12
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If you finance a car over 72 months, you get a better interest rate than if you finance it over 48. Is there any reason you can't save money by picking the 72 month option and then just sending in payments as if you were doing 48?
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Dec 9, 2016 17:16
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Usually no. Some lovely banks might try to tack on a penalty for paying off early, but I think that's pretty rare among reputable financiers nowadays.
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Dec 9, 2016 17:22
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When I first used BMW financial to finance a car, the automated payment was just what was due each month, paying more meant manually making extra payments. Now the website allows you to pick the amount you want to pay, so you can have payment plus whatever happen automatically each month.
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Dec 9, 2016 17:26
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The touchscreen in my Mazda 3 has developed a fun and exciting problem: it's detecting a constant input at a single point in the upper central portion of the display. Should I even bother trying to remove and unplug and reinstall the screen and command unit in the hopes that it magically goes away? Or should I just go straight to the dealership to find out how they plan to invalidate the extended warranty I The screen unit thing looks like this: 
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Dec 9, 2016 20:50
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FBS posted:The touchscreen in my Mazda 3 has developed a fun and exciting problem: it's detecting a constant input at a single point in the upper central portion of the display. If it's supposed to be covered, let them deal with it. It's not your problem. I listen to the same XM station. 
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Dec 9, 2016 20:59
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Deteriorata posted:I listen to the same XM station. I got the photo from Google but that station is in my favorites list so anyway
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Dec 9, 2016 21:05
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FBS posted:The touchscreen in my Mazda 3 has developed a fun and exciting problem: it's detecting a constant input at a single point in the upper central portion of the display. What year and color is your Mazda 3? Did you buy it new or used? Is it past the bumper-to-bumper warranty? I've always been advised the extended warranty thingies are rarely worth it.
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Dec 9, 2016 21:06
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So I have a shiny new short block in my Forester courtesy of SoA. I'm assuming I go through the same ol' change the oil at about 1k miles before beginning the normal 7k interval?
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Dec 9, 2016 21:07
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FBS posted:The touchscreen in my Mazda 3 has developed a fun and exciting problem: it's detecting a constant input at a single point in the upper central portion of the display. I can't guarantee it's the same but that was the most common failure method of touchscreen Panasonic Toughbooks I supported. once it happened the screen was toast and had to be sent in for repair. The hardware was toast, the hardware had to be replaced once that happened.
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Dec 9, 2016 21:31
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Michael Scott posted:What year and color is your Mazda 3? Did you buy it new or used? Is it past the bumper-to-bumper warranty? I bought it new and it is past the b2b manufacturer warranty. I generally feel the same way about extended warranties, but the day after I got the car the F&I guy came up with a different deal that included the extended warranty. In this case it looks like it will come in handy, apparently dealers quote $900-1200 to replace the nav system. BitBasher posted:I can't guarantee it's the same but that was the most common failure method of touchscreen Panasonic Toughbooks I supported. once it happened the screen was toast and had to be sent in for repair. The hardware was toast, the hardware had to be replaced once that happened. Once I diagnosed it as a touchscreen problem I began to suspect the whole thing would be toast. That's when I dug up the extended warranty paperwork. It must not be a hugely common problem (yet) since I only found one Mazda forum post describing the same issue.
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Dec 9, 2016 23:09
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Fire Storm posted:2013 Ford Explorer Sport, V6 3.5l TDI gasoline (Ecoboost), just over 49000 miles on it, suburban Detroit and we use salt on the roads in the winter. Does anyone have any clue where they hell they are in the Sport/Ecoboost models? There is some information out there on the standard engine models but not much. And no manual from Chiltons or Haynes. I'd rather not order the parts and find out they aren't compatible and they aren't in the location listed (under the battery for the purge valve). At least for my 2002 Focus I was able to get a repair manual within 2 years of purchase new.
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Dec 10, 2016 04:56
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Stupid question: I'm browsing craigslist, looking for something to buy next year, when I see an ad for a 2001 Mustang GT. It advertises a new motor, with a bunch of new parts put on. But then I notice this pic:  I'm not very experienced when it comes to cars, but this looks like a belt was put on backwards to me. Am I wrong, or is the Mustang owner wrong?
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Dec 10, 2016 07:52
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Nah, it's good. 2001 mustangs are terrible, though.
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Dec 10, 2016 07:56
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GOD IS BED posted:Stupid question: I'm browsing craigslist, looking for something to buy next year, when I see an ad for a 2001 Mustang GT. It advertises a new motor, with a bunch of new parts put on. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serpentine_belt
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Dec 10, 2016 08:01
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GOD IS BED posted:Stupid question: I'm browsing craigslist, looking for something to buy next year, when I see an ad for a 2001 Mustang GT. It advertises a new motor, with a bunch of new parts put on. You'll notice the water pump pulley (with the 4 bolts) has a smooth face instead of grooved; the flat side of the belt is supposed to ride on that, so the picture is correct. 01 mustang is... less sophisticated than the models that follow, but if the price is nice, everything else checks out and it's the car you want, then who cares?
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Dec 10, 2016 08:04
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Oh, duh! I should have noticed the grooves were pulling a different pulley. Thanks guys!
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Dec 10, 2016 08:07
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My Craigslist experience so far is getting scam calls from LA, Denver, NYC, and NJ.
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Dec 10, 2016 08:29
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Are you using a Google Voice number? Just making sure!
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Dec 10, 2016 08:36
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Nah, it's good. 2001 mustangs are terrible, though. Yeah uh, this. Also, there's a reason the engine got replaced, and it likely has to do with either abuse or lack of maintenance. The rest of the car will probably reflect that. Or, if it's manual, he/she may have done a moneyshift - where you downshift into 2nd instead of 4th, or 1st instead of 3rd, etc - I've done that once, and it was a very expensive lesson.
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Dec 10, 2016 10:59
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I'm just looking right now- unless something amazing pops up (in which case I'd post it in the craigslist thread and ask for advice), the wife has me locked on for getting a crapcan racecar in March. Thanks for the heads up on that gen of Mustang, and the Google Voice idea, never even thought of that.
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Dec 10, 2016 23:25
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Yeah, it's really easy to block a caller in Google Voice if they won't stop hassling you. They get an old school "this number has been disconnected or no longer in service" message once you've blocked someone and never rings the phone, and the call attempt shows up in the spam folder. If they text you, it goes into the spam folder as well. If you install the Voice app on your phone, you can configure it to show either your real number or your Google Voice number on outgoing calls. Major downside is it doesn't support MMS fully, so you can't send pictures. You can receive them on most carriers now, but I think it gets forwarded as an email. Depending on your carrier, you can configure it to take over your voicemail completely. That's one of the only reasons I haven't switched back to T-Mobile Prepaid, they don't support conditional call forwarding (postpaid does, but costs more since taxes aren't included in postpaid). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Dec 11, 2016 |
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Dec 11, 2016 05:35
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The Hangouts app supports MMS
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Dec 11, 2016 11:00
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So I know nothing about cars, really.  How should I go about fixing this scratch? It looks like maybe some parts of it are down to the metal, and possibly have a little rust on there. It could also be that the scratch was caused by a wall and has brick dust in there. Worst case scenario, am I gonna need to shell out a couple hundred pounds for a pro to fix this, or is it something I can do at home given time and internet expertise? I've seen people online posting about rotary buffers and wet sanding and it seems like a lot of money invested, and I have no idea how much of that is necessary.
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Dec 11, 2016 11:43
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That's beyond buffing, my friend.
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Dec 11, 2016 12:03
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Yeah that needs sanding, filling, priming and painting.
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Dec 11, 2016 12:14
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Or, if you just want to stop the rust, sand it down with an 80 then a 220 grit sanding sponge, and throw some clear paint or nail polish (temporary) or associated touch-up paint over it. Actual fixing will be in-depth.
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Dec 11, 2016 12:21
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Surprise T Rex posted:So I know nothing about cars, really. If it isn't an expensive car and you have access to a garage I'd try to paint it myself. Might not be perfect, but with 2 component paints and good prep work you can get good results. Especially since it probably won't be a couple hundred pounds to fix unless you get a "really good price". I'd say this is pretty much what you need to do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nnILSQo_svI
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Dec 11, 2016 12:31
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Surprise T Rex posted:So I know nothing about cars, really. Now, where you go with this will very much dependent on how much you care about the appearance of it. That video MrOnBicycle posted is a good shout.
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Dec 11, 2016 14:43
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It's not an expensive car, no. I don't have access to a garage though so spraying it out in the damp British weather might be slightly difficult. I'll have a look for those spray paints though, and see about doing it if I get a dry weekend.
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Dec 11, 2016 15:33
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I'd say at the very least touch in the damage to stop it rusting where bare metal and primer are exposed, and you can fix it "properly" later.
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Dec 11, 2016 15:42
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You can't just paint that and have it look good. You'll need body filler to make it smooth. Otherwise you'll just have torn up body work with paint on it. This is a job for a shop. It'll cost a few hundred bucks at a minimum.
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Dec 11, 2016 16:00
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VW Polo 2003 1.2l Petrol Engine Dimly lit steering wheel with "!" next to it which stays on when ignition off and keys removed. Had to leave it in the carpark this morning at work so I don't know if it goes off eventually but it didn't go off when the car was locked.
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Dec 12, 2016 07:50
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I'm gonna assume you mean the display on the cluster is showing the "!", not the steering wheel itself.  Or maybe the TPMS "(!)" indicator?This will sound crazy, but VWs of that era had issues with coolant migrating through the entire car via the wiring harness, thanks to the design of the coolant level sensor and connector. The first symptom was usually the cluster acting weird. If you're comfortable doing so, remove the cluster. See if there's any liquid staining or residue where the plug(s) connect to it. If there is.... uh... it's time to get rid of the car, unless they did a recall for it in your area (the wiring through the entire car has to be replaced if coolant migration is the issue). If you mean it's a button on the dash (not the instrument cluster), are you sure that's not the hazards (4 way flasher) button? Some cars light them up, even for a bit after the car is shut off. The icon on the button is usually a triangle with a "!" in the middle. Beyond that... someone familiar with Polos will have to chime in. I only have passing knowledge of the migration issue myself.
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Dec 12, 2016 12:06
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Yeah sorry I meant there is a symbol on the dash. There were issues with the coolant when I first got the car and I had to get a sensor changed so you might be onto something.
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Dec 12, 2016 12:17
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My sister has 2015 (or so) Town and Country with push button and remote start. She said that the remote start wouldn't work, so she went out to the car and physically couldn't press down on the brake pedal to manually use the push button start. After about five minutes, it eventually worked. I have no idea. Do you?
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Dec 12, 2016 17:32
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