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What about running a small battery bank in between the Pi and the wall? Sort of a ghetto UPS.
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Nov 17, 2016 14:28
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The solution I've been leaning toward is one of those USB battery packs which can accept power input and do output simultaneously. It's functionally a UPS for your Pi at that point. If it loses power input, everything stays steady on the Pi, and when it gets power back it just starts charging again. e: f,b G-Prime fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Nov 17, 2016 |
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Nov 17, 2016 14:36
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General_Failure posted:What are you using to monitor the temperature? I'll have to plug mine back in and try a similar load test... as best I can anyway. Can't do the BBC bit. They don't like sharing their media with the filthy colonies. If you Google "raspberry pi vcgencmd" there should be some raspbian scripts to measure the temperature with the vcgencmd command. I just run that command on a loop in ssh while I've got a video playing that's stressing the SoC. Thanks for the tip about overpressuring, evil bunny. I'm gonna take the lazy man's approach and overpressure without a filter, hoovering it occasionally  As for the card corruption problem, did I read something about the latest version of raspbian (pixel) being optimized to help prevent it happening? I seem to have that idea for some reason. P. S. Sorry about the lack of quotes in this disjointed post: typing on my phone.
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Nov 17, 2016 15:04
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Anyone have experience with one of these HDD? I suspect what ever unexpected performance issues I have are from the microSD card and I'm constantly worried about data corruption. On the other hand, Pi branded stuff does typically have a price mark up.Drone posted:I've not had time to extensively test it yet, but I have noticed general improvements. PSX games were smooth before, but are generally smoother now. There's also an improvement in SNES games that use the Super FX chip (StarFox). And it boots up into EmulationStation much faster than before, which is a plus. I haven't played around with the Bluetooth or Wifi settings yet though, since
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Nov 17, 2016 15:04
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So my friend has a 7 foot boa we recently finished building a 2m x 1m x 1m custom vivarium for. It's suuuuper fancy and better insulated than most houses around here, basically a deluxe home for life after throwing out vivs that collapse under their own weight after about a year and... well anyway I won't rant about how crappy most vivariums are. Point is we now have a really good one for him. We've got an arduino with 20 temp sensors to provide all the information we need in that regard (cost £30 to build rather than £100+ in branded snake gear) but now we're looking at some kind of livestream type setup so she can monitor him visually when she's away. My ideal requirements would be a raspberry pi of some description with a wifi module and a fisheye type camera that can see across 2m from 1m height, haven't done the math to figure out what lens that'd be yet. Ideally I'd like it so that you can visit the website and click a button to start viewing which begins the stream, that way it won't be constantly sending data when it's not needed. Not sure if night vision cameras would work or if I'd be better off having an led that lights up when streaming perhaps? Or maybe one you can turn on and off from the website? Was just wondering if anyone had any pointers both in hardware and software? I'm also hoping to update the arduino to have humidity sensors and data logging to be able to view spreadsheets and such online, would be nice if I could have the stream and the stats on the same page but I'm guessing at that point I'd be better off getting some webs pace and having a proper website to host this stuff? Any help is greatly appreciated
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Nov 17, 2016 15:52
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The XKCD Larper posted:My Rpi Model B has corrupted the memory card upon power loss a few times now. It's incredibly inconvenient. What can I do to prevent this from happening? For what it's worth, since I stopped using cheap sandisk cards and switched to Samsung I've not had a single one corrupted, and this is across multiple pi, for years now. All of which get the power yanked
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Nov 17, 2016 16:31
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G-Prime posted:The solution I've been leaning toward is one of those USB battery packs which can accept power input and do output simultaneously. It's functionally a UPS for your Pi at that point. If it loses power input, everything stays steady on the Pi, and when it gets power back it just starts charging again. Many of those power banks have very limited passthrough charging capability. I built this setup recently, it can run for a few hours on battery alone and can charge while running the pi at full load. Uses an Adafruit Poweerboost 1000C  I used a modified version of this project to have a safe shutdown feature. I just added a capacitor and resistor to hold the EN pin high long enough after the power switch was operated for the pi to safely shutdown. https://github.com/NeonHorizon/lipopi
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Nov 17, 2016 17:34
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Skarsnik posted:For what it's worth, since I stopped using cheap sandisk cards and switched to Samsung I've not had a single one corrupted, and this is across multiple pi, for years now. All of which get the power yanked I think it's technically still possible to corrupt a card, but I agree, pulling the power cable out is how I turn my Pis off, with no issues now for two years.
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Nov 18, 2016 17:17
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Captain Hair posted:We've got an arduino with 20 temp sensors to provide all the information we need in that regard (cost £30 to build rather than £100+ in branded snake gear) but now we're looking at some kind of livestream type setup so she can monitor him visually when she's away. I'm not certain about accessing or streaming it over public Internet (although I imagine it's possible) you might want to check out MotionEyeOS
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Nov 19, 2016 17:15
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My brother wanted a NES classic for Christmas (typical 80s kid), but obviously they're on backorder. I bought a Pi 3, a $7 NES USB controller (also bought him a N64 USB controller) and slapped RetroPie on it. I also bought a Pi Zero to screw around with. I gotta say, at least RPis are a cheap hobby.
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Nov 24, 2016 06:58
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psydude posted:My brother wanted a NES classic for Christmas (typical 80s kid), but obviously they're on backorder. I bought a Pi 3, a $7 NES USB controller (also bought him a N64 USB controller) and slapped RetroPie on it. The first hit is (almost) free 
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Nov 24, 2016 11:38
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If you get a USB power battery thingy that will only help if the power comes back on before the power runs out. Another solution is to use either the USB battery, or a super capacitor across +5v and GND to give it like 10 seconds of power. Then you hookup some kind of power sense circuit. I'm using a 120vac relay I got from a surplus shop for 4 bucks. Hook up one of the open GPIO pins and GND through the relay. Then write a script that watches that pin, and if it goes HIGH perform a shutdown.
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Nov 24, 2016 18:04
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PIXEL has a taskbar widget for temperature. I found it a little after the last time I posted it. It's ugly but functional. I've had a little bit more of a play with the Orange Pi PC. It really is pretty cool in it's own way. Definitely not one for people that want a pleasant OOBE. A little while ago I tried an Armbian image with it. It seems to work pretty well. It supports the IR receiver and seems to support the Mali GPU via the blob. There is a mainline kernel with basic hardware support which I haven't tried. A big issue seems to be screen resolutions. It's more software than hardware it seems. There is a utility (h3disp) that allows choosing from a set of canned resolutions including 1080p, 4k and some 3D modes, but setting a custom resolution isn't possible. I haven't worked out yet if setting the resolutions and magic clock register settings is all that is needed or if something needs to be done on the kernel end to allow it to support a resolution. The monitor I'm using it on doesn't have it's native resolution supported so I settled for a lower resolution. I have the monitor set up not to scale because scaled modes on LCDs look like poo poo. That would have to be the thing I miss about CRTs. With trying Armbian it actually had working sound! Even looking sideways at the settings broke it, but opening alsamixer in a terminal, and turning the analog line out up again fixes it. For some reason fiddling causes it to be muted first time round. Sound quality is reasonably good. I tried it with a pair of earbuds that were at hand. Plenty of volume, pretty even across the frequency range with clear treble. There was some kind of clipping, but I don't know if it was my earbuds, the DAC or the volume settings. The mp3 I was playing had the PulseAudio VU bar thing pegged most of the time. Turning it down in Audacious didn't seem to affect the bar. You yeah I dunno. I have to try it with some proper headphones and more music. I haven't set up SMB / NFS yet so I only had a song that's kicking around on a USB drive. I ordered an Orange Pi Zero this week. I'll let you all know what it's like when it eventually arrives. Straight out there's a caveat with the OPi Zero for anyone considering them. There's no HDMI out. There's a composite out available via the 13 pin header but that's about it unless you go SPI or something. I bought a 512MB model. They also have a 256MB model. Funny little thing. They have provision for passive PoE, but can be adapted to active with a buck converter apparently. They also have a solder pad for an SPI Flash, although I don't know how well supported that is yet.
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Dec 1, 2016 11:32
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So I want to build an indoor air quality monitor and found the airpi project. If I want to just make one of those and have it sit on a table, what kind of pi should I get, and is there a case that fits a permanent breadboard or pcb? Never used a pi before. Alternatively there have got to be projects that are just "read a voltage (or many voltages) do something to the reading and then put it on a graph or display" if the airpi is no good.
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Dec 1, 2016 19:30
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Get a Raspberry Pi 3, the GrovePi from Seeed and any Grove sensors you like. That's an entire ecosystem of boards and sensors to minimize dicking around. Dunno about cases that will fit the Grove system, do a Yahoo internet search or something.
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Dec 1, 2016 19:59
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Is there a hat that will fit inside the official raspberry pi case? I got my adafruit servo hat to mount, but only after significant modifications to the case. I wanted to gift a Pi 3 with maybe one of those Pi Sense Hats as a gift, but I don't think the official case has enough clearance for a full size PCB board hat where the top hinges together.
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Dec 1, 2016 20:34
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I'm looking for a low-cost 64-bit ARM development board. From what I understand, the Pi 3's 64-bit support doesn't actually work. Are there any boards that won't get me stuck with an outdated kernel? The HiKey seems to be my best bet, but I'm new to this and would like some input.
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Dec 1, 2016 21:27
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Double Punctuation posted:I'm looking for a low-cost 64-bit ARM development board. From what I understand, the Pi 3's 64-bit support doesn't actually work. Are there any boards that won't get me stuck with an outdated kernel? The HiKey seems to be my best bet, but I'm new to this and would like some input. https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=158127 I found that for the Pi 3, although I know nothing about it. I noticed yesterday that the Armbian download page has a decent list of project boards. Many I haven't heard of. It could be worth looking some up to see what they are. e: Hadlock, I think what you want is a case that fits A HAT with a Raspberry Pi. The official case fails at it badly. If someone knows one, please say so! My PiFi DAC+ 2.0 showed up today. The only part left of my official case is the bottom and the side with the GPIO pins. I had to strip everything else off for the card to fit. Putting this link here for future reference. https://github.com/guussie/PiDS/wiki/09.-How-to-make-various-DACs-work I followed the instructions and the DAC worked straight off. I'm a little disappointed that they seem to have done a couple of passive component substitutions. I might replace them at a later date. Especially the capacitor. With a Pi 3 I need as much stability as possible. The DAC has a good headphone out volume. Sounds good too. I plugged my AliExpress tube preamp into the phono connector and plugged the Sansui SH-15 headphones into it. They are merciless when it comes to input distortion. Played a couple of MP3s. Sounded okay, but as I said... merciless. Put on one of the few FLACs I have (with my sound hardware on anything it didn't matter) and it sounded really good. very clear. Couldn't hear any jitter, crackles or artefacts in general. I wouldn't quite put it on par with a really nice Hi-Fi setup with CD player but it's pretty good. I'm happy. Not sure if lirc is set up. Haven't tried it nor have any desire to. I Think the main volume control on the Pi is controlling the DAC's internal volume control and not just doing it in software but I'm not 100% sure. I have it cranked up to 100% anyway and using the volume control on the preamp. Am I doing that backwards? When I have a bit more time I'll swap the input for the preamp over to the Orange Pi PC and give it's internal DAC a try on even footing with the PiFi. I'll also not be a lazy piece of poo poo and connect the RCA connectors to the PiFi instead of the Phono to RCA adaptor cable. General_Failure fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Dec 2, 2016 |
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Dec 1, 2016 22:24
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Thanks. I'll give it a shot.
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Dec 2, 2016 04:02
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I'm looking at upgrading my Pi and I'm not sure whether I should go with the latest Pi model, another board, or just pick up a cheap old netbook. Right now I'm running an original model B that I use as a linux webserver for local webdev. I've also got an external hdd that I use for storage of music or videos or anything else I'd want accessible from any computer in the house. I recently hooked it up to an old router with DD-WRT to be able to get it on wifi and clear up some overcrowded outlets that I had to use when I kept it directly hooked up to the home's actual router. The wifi connection is very noticeably worse than a wired one (whether that's the Pi, the router it's connected to, or just the extra hop of Laptop -> Home Router -> Pi Router -> Pi, I haven't really bothered looking into) and I get occasional hangups with the shared drive. It's gotten to the point where it seems to chug a bit when doing development (it'll take 30 seconds for a django dev server to refresh itself when I make changes, that sort of thing), and it really crawls when I'm working on a site with an imported copy of the live site's database where I've got tables with over 100,000 rows, indexed or not. The obvious upgrade is jumping to a Pi 3 since the Pi itself has served me well in the past, and it having built in wifi capabilities means I can cut this extra router out entirely, but for the cost of the system and a new case, I'm probably looking at spending as much as an old Atom powered netbook that I could just dump Linux on. Any insights on what would be a reasonable upgrade? I enjoy the Pi having such a tiny footprint both physically and electrically and would prefer something along those lines.
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Dec 3, 2016 02:19
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Storage on WiFi is a bad idea no matter how you implement it. WiFi is for convenience, portable devices where it's the only option that allows them to be used as intended, low-bandwidth appliances where it doesn't matter, etc. Stationary devices where performance matters (storage, game consoles, high-performance streaming clients) should always be wired when it's physically possible. The Pi3 will be a nice performance upgrade from a CPU standpoint, but for what you're using it for you may be better served by a low-end NUC or similar. Gigabit ethernet and USB3 could mean huge differences in share performance. Either way plug the thing in.
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Dec 3, 2016 03:05
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Honestly, it sounds like you've got a good setup that works for you, other than not having enough grunt. The onboard WiFi will skip a couple steps (CPU->USB Bus->Ethernet Controller->Pi Router->Home router becomes CPU->USB bus -> WiFi chip -> Home router) alongside the faster CPU will definitely help speed everything up. Whether or not it will do it enough to make you happy, no one will be able to tell you 
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Dec 3, 2016 03:40
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If you don't have ethernet accessible, power-line ethernet kits are really cheap nowadays and they're much better than wifi. They still lose connection sometimes and the bandwidth isn't as good as real ethernet but it's far more reliable than wifi and has much lower latency.
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Dec 3, 2016 04:22
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In my house, I got better bandwidth with wi‐fi than with powerline networking, but it’s possible the balance has shifted since. I used a couple of Ubiquiti base stations (so low‐end enterprise stuff, rather than consumer bridges which are complete trash), on a frequency that doesn’t overlap with my main AP, to run a backbone from one end of the house to the other. They have directional antennæ, which helps a lot.
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Dec 3, 2016 04:49
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I tried the Orange Pi PC internal audio with the same setup that I tried the Pi3 with. The OPi PC audio sounds kind of dirty somehow. I heard it with the earbuds and headphones. More than good enough for most uses, but there's something a bit odd.
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Dec 3, 2016 05:07
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Platystemon posted:In my house, I got better bandwidth with wi‐fi than with powerline networking, but it’s possible the balance has shifted since. Your bandwidth may be better but the latency and consistency wasn't in my experience. Gaming on PLE was way, way better than gaming on Wifi, and bulk data transfers like copying from a fileserver would hit their limit and remain 95% consistent whereas wifi was all over the place. This totally depends on your PLE adapters and your house wiring versus your wifi range though. If you're 8 feet above your wifi hotspot but on a totally different power circuit then wifi will be faster. Directional antennas should help too. If you're on the same circuit PLE is great, and you really can't beat PLE's latency. I got 30ms pings to game servers on a WLE connection. Wifi may be faster but it can't beat a PLE's pings, and PLE is pretty consistent anywhere in the house once you're past the "on the same circuit" bonus. It goes back to the panel and then back out, so distance isn't too much of a concern. The PLE adapters that have GbE-rated chips tend to be better even if they only have 100 Mb sockets on them. They reach more of the rated/theoretical throughput of the adapter (meaning the bottleneck, which is the socket there). But if you have super lovely wiring from 1900 then it may still have some occasional disconnects. But Wifi doesn't go through thick lathe-and-plaster walls so hot either. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Dec 5, 2016 |
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Dec 3, 2016 05:26
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Double Punctuation posted:I'm looking for a low-cost 64-bit ARM development board. From what I understand, the Pi 3's 64-bit support doesn't actually work. Are there any boards that won't get me stuck with an outdated kernel? The HiKey seems to be my best bet, but I'm new to this and would like some input. As far as I know, there's no 64 bit Raspbian image yet just because they haven't got round to completing one. Which is why I'm using the same 32 bit image for my Pi3, Pi2 and Pi. I dunno how long we're going to wait until all the 64 bit stuff to be compiled and tested etc. Props to the guys working on Raspbian, though. It's really great to have such a polished and fully featured operating system on a tiny device. It feels like Raspbian is up there with the established Linux distros.
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Dec 3, 2016 08:21
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I spoke too soon about 64 bit on the Pi: https://en.opensuse.org/HCL:Raspberry_Pi3
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Dec 3, 2016 14:37
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Paul MaudDib posted:The PLE adapters that have GbE-rated chips tend to be better even if they only have 100 Mb sockets on them. They reach more of the rated/theoretical throughput of the chip. But if you have super lovely wiring from 1900 then it may still have some occasional disconnects. But Wifi doesn't go through thick lathe-and-plaster walls so hot either. That's been my experience too, PLE give me decent throughput but it's rock-stable, while WiFi bounces around from decent to lovely, no matter what band, channel and/or device I'm using. 1940's house, old wiring but upgraded breaker box/outlets and lathe-n-plaster walls.
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Dec 3, 2016 16:17
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So I bought a pi 3 awhile back and set it up with raspbian and retropie. Got my ps3 controller running and everything was looking good except once I started playing super Mario world I noticed the God awful input latency. After some googling it doesn't look like there is much of a solution to this. One thing I did want to try though was to get zsnes running. My Windows computer suffers from a bit of latency too when I run snes9x on it and I found switching emulators fixed it, but for the life of me I can't get zsnes to run on my pi. I've Googled around a bit and tried more than a few installation methods other people have recommended.... Has anyone here gotten zsnes to run on their pi? If not, have you found a solution to input latency in retropie? Is there another emulator you might recommended?
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Dec 5, 2016 06:45
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SMB specifically seems to have latency issues when you have a smart TV. See if your TV has a Game Mode and activate it. The postprocessing built into a lot of modern TVs introduces a noticeable amount of input lag, which is why Game Mode exists (it disables most of the post-processing)
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Dec 5, 2016 07:25
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memento mori posted:So I bought a pi 3 awhile back and set it up with raspbian and retropie. Got my ps3 controller running and everything was looking good except once I started playing super Mario world I noticed the God awful input latency. After some googling it doesn't look like there is much of a solution to this. One thing I did want to try though was to get zsnes running. My Windows computer suffers from a bit of latency too when I run snes9x on it and I found switching emulators fixed it, but for the life of me I can't get zsnes to run on my pi. I've ZSNES is only for x86-based computers and was last updated 9 years ago. It won't run on a Raspberry Pi at all unless you do your own porting job to replace x86-reliant code with ARM code.
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Dec 5, 2016 17:26
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I had an old 2006 Mac mini running some basic serving duties (uh just IRC/ZNC, SSH tunnel, and AirPrint), just died recently and figured I could replace it with a Pi 3. So far so good, mostly. Tried using Linuxbrew since I was already using Homebrew on OS X but couldn't get that working, seemed to be a combination of a bug and my incompetence in implementing the fix or something. ngircd and ZNC were already in the regular Raspbian depository, older versions but I gave up and just went with them and they worked fine. Copied over conf and account files I pulled from the dead Mac and eventually had everything back up and running after some tweaking here and there. AirPrint was a lot easier than old guides on the internet, I guess cause the Bonjour/mDNS stuff is already included in Raspbian nowadays. Just had to install CUPS and set that up, AirPrint worked right after that...except it's slow as poo poo. Slow printing appeared to be the norm from what I could find. Any alternatives or is the Pi hardware just too slow? Otherwise uh, some hopefully basic questions: I was using my TV for setup, does the Pi/Raspbian gracefully handle hotplugging the HDMI cable if I want to move the box around a little? How do I set DHCP client ID? I tried messing with dhcpcd.conf or whatever but didn't seem to work. I set IP addresses by it usually but just went with the MAC address for now. Also use it for a basic failover connection on my Macs with wired and wifi using the same client ID and getting the same IP, but if it's complicated to set that up I probably won't bother. And are the dedicated power supplies important at all? Right now I have it connected to charging ports on my UPS (so they're battery backed too), they're labeled as 2.1A iirc. I'm getting the little lightning bolt symbol, which means low power according to the internets. I'm guessing it's just pulling the usual USB peripheral 500mA or whatever instead of the higher 2A charging spec? tl;dr replaced an old rear end Mac with a Pi  /
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Dec 5, 2016 21:20
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I wonder about Retropie: is there a time savings or possibly a life savings for the SD card if I unzip my (completely legally obtained and stored) ROMs? In other words, does anyone know if the files are simply read through the zip file, extracted in RAM, or extracted in a temporary directory? How would I go about finding this out?
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Dec 8, 2016 23:35
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doctorfrog posted:I wonder about Retropie: is there a time savings or possibly a life savings for the SD card if I unzip my (completely legally obtained and stored) ROMs? In other words, does anyone know if the files are simply read through the zip file, extracted in RAM, or extracted in a temporary directory? How would I go about finding this out? You could strace the player, but it's almost certainly unzipped into memory. It would be harder and slower to do the unpacking to disk properly.
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Dec 8, 2016 23:39
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Skarsnik posted:For what it's worth, since I stopped using cheap sandisk cards and switched to Samsung I've not had a single one corrupted, and this is across multiple pi, for years now. All of which get the power yanked In my case I've been using Sony cards, and: 
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Dec 12, 2016 05:16
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Subjunctive posted:You could strace the player, but it's almost certainly unzipped into memory. It would be harder and slower to do the unpacking to disk properly. If the emulator will mmap() the files it would be reasonable to keep them unzipped so they only occupy address space, not real private memory. If it doesn't then don't bother. (More platforms need an API that effectively says "return a read-only data object with the contents of this file, using mmap to do so if safe" API. This is so incredibly useful on Darwin-based platforms...)
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Dec 12, 2016 05:39
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eschaton posted:If the emulator will mmap() the files it would be reasonable to keep them unzipped so they only occupy address space, not real private memory. If it doesn't then don't bother. My understanding is that the images get patched in place, but under memory pressure the idles pages of the ROM buffer can get paged out, so it's likely a wash anyway.
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Dec 12, 2016 06:30
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Does anyone have experience with the USB hub from the pi hut? This one: https://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi?variant=789554361 I was thinking about getting a pi zero for in my garage. Hook it up to an old monitor/wifi dongle/keyboard/mouse I'm not using, so I have a really low budget internet station for if I need to look things up when working on my bike.
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Dec 12, 2016 19:17
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LochNessMonster posted:Does anyone have experience with the USB hub from the pi hut? This one: https://thepihut.com/products/7-port-usb-hub-for-the-raspberry-pi?variant=789554361 I'd use a Pi 3 for that. Browsing the web on a Pi zero is painful. The internet expects multi-core at this point. Plus that gains you built-in WiFi and a bluetooth chip which you could connect to a bluetooth OBD-2 dongle, wireless keyboard/mouse, audio system, etc. As far as the hub goes aside from some supporting higher power charge modes for devices there really shouldn't be any meaningful difference between USB 2.0 hubs.
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Dec 12, 2016 19:58
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