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AI fantasy football chat: my friend beat me in this week's matchup to tie me at 9-5. We were fighting for the last playoff slot in our league. If my calculations are correct/there's no stat correction tomorrow, I will still get the playoff slot because I outscored him by 2.98points this year, 1,847.52 to 1,844.54. I did not get the winning 3 points until the last four minutes of the BAL/NE game tonight. 
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Dec 13, 2016 06:21
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Football is not an autosport.
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Dec 13, 2016 06:35
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:AI fantasy football chat: my friend beat me in this week's matchup to tie me at 9-5. We were fighting for the last playoff slot in our league. If my calculations are correct/there's no stat correction tomorrow, I will still get the playoff slot because I outscored him by 2.98points this year, 1,847.52 to 1,844.54. I did not get the winning 3 points until the last four minutes of the BAL/NE game tonight.
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Dec 13, 2016 07:34
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Welcome to RegularCarReviews, and this week, we're reviewing 2016 Reddit shitposting https://www.reddit.com/r/regularcarreviews/comments/5htp9l/submissions_thread_for_our_firstever_fanwritten/
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Dec 13, 2016 08:22
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Love to do that, got to pass inspection twice yearly for the renters/homeowner's insurance, though, so it's got to be an all-in-one solutions. Wait, you're required to have a timer on your water heater there? Or is it just to avoid running it during peak hours? Split billing doesn't seem to be a thing where I'm at, but in a lot of places I've been to, there was sometimes a separate meter for the water heater (El Paso) and/or a power company controlled contactor to disconnect it during periods of high demand (Austin). I get a monthly bill credit from May-October for letting my power company bump my thermostat up a few degrees during periods of high demand though. I have to wonder how much it costs to heat the tank back up vs just leaving it on, assuming you're not doing split rates, and you're showering, doing dishes, etc daily. I'm pretty sure that my water heater is the biggest electricity user in my place right now, there's always a 2+ hour spike in usage after a shower or doing dishes (it was 4+ hours until I took it from 150 to 120). But I also have a 40 gallon tank... for a 1 bedroom apartment. And going by the energy usage tag on it, I'm gonna guess they went with the one with the least insulation possible. Estimated energy usage is $580/year.
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Dec 13, 2016 08:47
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Not required to have it, but we have split rates. Well, I chose to have them. And if there's a hard-wired timer with a hard-wired water heater, it's part of the annual fire safety inspection by the insurance company. Not a state-mandated thing at all. Normal rate are around 10-11c/kWh, if you're standard billing. Peak plan, which I was on until this year, is 7c/kWh, except between noon-7PM. Then it's 20c. I'm on the "super peak" plan, which (between April and September), is 5.9c/kWh normally, noon-7PM is 24c/kWh, but 3-6PM is 48c/kWh. It saves more during the off-peak hours, in exchange for loving you during peak A/C usage times. So, a water heater timer is vital. I switched to "super peak" because I had set up the Nest and other timers for the normal peak plan, and their online calculator shows I'd save another 10-20% or so by moving to super peak, so I did. I just had a general kibosh on electricity usage after noon until the evenings anyway, which works out, because I work 12 hours from 1PM to 1AM. Current water heater timer is: Off from 12PM to 7PM Off from 10PM to 1AM Off from 5 AM to 9AM So, pretty much on only for showering before work (my "mornings"), showering after getting home, and maybe a Saturday or Sunday morning shower. I find it keeps the heat in-between pretty well, and the dishwasher has a pre-heater that can boost temperatures if I'm lacking. Think of heating a water heater exactly the same as the "leaky bucket" analogy for home HVAC. "Pre-cooling" or "maintenance cooling" a house, unless it's split billing, or you exceed a certain threshold re: your average insulation rating versus temperature differential vs the outdoors, is a waste of money. More often than not, especially in these AZ homes with garbage insulation and heat-pumps for both A/C and heating, keeping a house cool in the summer when you aren't there, or warm in the winter, is a waste of money. As long as the heat exchanger is large enough, of course. Same as a leaky bucket with a hole at the bottom: the cooler you make the house is equivalent to the higher you maintain the water level, which in turn increases the leakage rate of water through the hole at the bottom due to water pressure, or temperature differential. E: I should mention that the peak plans ignore something like six or seven holidays, and weekends, including the day before thanksgiving, IIRC. Then it's standard billing at your normal rate. That helps a lot on big cooking days, especially because I have an electric oven. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 09:05
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Cripes. The peak plans would murder me, since I generally don't work traditional hours. Fans only go so far for me. I'm paying 7.9c/kWh, but I'm locked into the plan for a year, unless I move somewhere outside of my retail electric provider's (REP) territory. Yeah that's a thing here... one company is generating most of the power in the region (and handling transmission), but there's 100+ companies to choose from to handle the billing side. The city I live in didn't vote to deregulate, and has its own power plants and grid (though it's now tied to the regional grid), but the part of town I'm in was annexed pretty late in the game (late 1960s), long after the regional company had laid down all the infrastructure - so I'm not tied to using GP&L like the rest of the city is. If I was within GP&L territory, it'd be the same normal rate plan (10-11c), but... that's it. No other options. My REP actually paid for my Nest, so long as I agreed to stay with them for a year, and I had to choose a higher rate plan to get it for free (I think it was just short of 10c/kWh) - but they also allow you to change plans within 90 days "if you feel the plan isn't a good fit", once I had the Nest I changed to a much cheaper plan with a lower ETF.  They never said anything to me about it, and they still actively advertise this "feature" - it's been 4 or 5 months since I switched.If I worked normal hours, I'd be all over the split rate stuff. Though my ac really has a hard time bringing my place down from a higher temp; it struggles to maintain high 70s in the middle of August until the sun goes down. I'll be so happy when my lease is up.
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Dec 13, 2016 12:17
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Just be glad you're not being billed for power factor (watts versus lagging VARs from things like induction motors in your refrigerator and air conditioner) yet.
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Dec 13, 2016 13:10
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We average out 3 to 4 cents per kWh around here  Single payer, single distributor, single generator for the most part. People still bitch lmao e: Three-Phase posted:Just be glad you're not being billed for power factor (watts versus lagging VARs from things like induction motors in your refrigerator and air conditioner) yet. They'll just start adding capacitor banks to the appliances and calling them green.
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Dec 13, 2016 13:53
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What would really suck is THD based billing, anyone with old computers or lots of old SMPS based equipment would get screwed. Modern APFC SMPS units are significantly better at not turning sine waves into camelbacks.
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Dec 13, 2016 13:59
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Honestly that's not a bad idea, what with AC power quality about to poo poo the bed once we turn off all the baseload coal/ng/nuke prime movers.
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Dec 13, 2016 14:03
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What's the threshold on "old" vs "modern?" I don't really know SMPS besides the fundamentals.
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Dec 13, 2016 14:05
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Ken is APFC "Advanced Power Factor Correction"? I've never heard of it but it sounds neat. e: found it. "Active"
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Dec 13, 2016 14:07
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poo poo now I'm in a Wheatstone Bridge/Passive PFC/Active PFC rabbit hole thanks a lot Ken
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Dec 13, 2016 14:21
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Yeah, what you said. If you want a good writeup the whitepaper for the onsemi NCP1650 is pretty good. What it amounts to is instead of using a capacitor smoothing bank right after directly rectifying incoming utility AC, you feed it through a specially designed boost converter that varies its duty cycle constantly to turn abs(sin(theta)) into DC for the cap bank, so current draw stays almost exactly linear with voltage and inphase, emulating a resistive load. Much easier for the power grid to deal with than spike loading at the top of every wave where input voltage is greater than rectifier forward voltage plus ripple voltage, but zero current everywhere else. Raluek, no real clean cutoff. If it says APFC it is active, if it doesn't it is either non PFC and horrible, or passive PFC and middlingly horrible. kastein fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 14:28
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ilkhan posted:Does your league take head-to-head matchup results before overall points scored? Yeah, but there were three of us tied for third at 9-5 after last night so the highest scoring two teams got slots, bumping out my buddy: 
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Dec 13, 2016 15:57
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Power quality is one of my specialities. As far as capacitors go, one problem is inrush when you connect them to the line - I've seen that suddenly spike and ringing cause drives to trip offline due to the DC link-bus overvoltage (between the rectifier and inverter). You need something to either pre-charge or limit capacitor inrush. One way is to install a line reactor but you need to be very careful to ensure you don't create a resonant circuit. On power distribution systems too much capacitance can start doing really weird stuff like overvoltage and bad stability problems. It's like a ball sitting atop a hill instead of inside a valley. Also one odd UPS problem: some old UPS units are designed to work with highly lagging power supplies. You can basically overload them if you connect newer computers or servers to them that have power supplies that operate at unity or even slightly leading PF. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 16:03
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OH poo poo Three-Phase please please please please brain-dump all the issues and technology combating issues on dips in power quality from increased renewable (PV, wind) penetration as decreases occur in non-static, prime-moving loads and you no longer have mechanical inertia stabilizing the interconnection waveform. Specifically do you think smart-inverters with batteries as inertial drivers can make up the absence of steam-turbine-powered stable generators or will we still need large-scale generation like pumped hydro (I know it isn't technically baseload but it's large output and stable) and CSP to keep power quality? Like, this is what I'm studying now and it would be a great help to get some insight on it. e: Renewable penetration on a transmission scale not a distribution scale. I think that's obvious but I should clarify anyways. Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 17:22
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Wait, you're required to have a timer on your water heater there? Or is it just to avoid running it during peak hours? Gas water heater supremacy  (and stove/oven!)
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Dec 13, 2016 17:35
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gas stove, good. gas oven, not so great.
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Dec 13, 2016 17:40
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BraveUlysses posted:gas stove, good. gas oven, not so great. Seems to work OK, though I'm no great cook, and my wife's cooking is pretty basic. Temperature control the issue?
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Dec 13, 2016 17:42
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yup. ideally you'd want gas stove with electric element oven
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Dec 13, 2016 17:47
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But given the choice between the two gas stove and oven is way better than electric stove and oven. Gas ovens aren't ideal but electric stove tops are hot garbage.
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Dec 13, 2016 18:25
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BraveUlysses posted:yup. ideally you'd want gas stove with electric element oven 
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Dec 13, 2016 18:36
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scuz posted:That's what we're rocking and it's amaaaaaaazing. Electric ranges are absolute crap and I will not have them in my home
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Dec 13, 2016 18:39
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Oh geez Adibiatic, I'm still learning a lot about that myself. The biggest problem I see is that it's not just an engineering problem. There are major political and economic components that all mix together into a nasty soup. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 18:50
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Induction is nice but I still think i'd take gas for a range. i have a portable induction burner that I use sometimes. being able to use gas to char stuff directly in the flame or blast heat into a wok is better than the everyday benefits of induction imo.
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Dec 13, 2016 18:51
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Three-Phase posted:Oh geez Adibiatic, I'm still learning a lot about that myself. poo poo dude it's part of what's stopping us from scaling up renewables to any measurable degree (lol people think we just hate the environment) so it's something you could make dissertations on easily. You introduce entropy to the generation-side in the form of deviation from the common waveform, mostly due to sudden lack of wind or sudden clouds or whatever. Those voltage drops pull on the inertia of the waveform (made up solely from the generators synched to it) so when you increase the percentage of PV and/or windmills to a grid you gently caress the power quality. What exacerbates this is there's no large-output steady generation backed up by a physical force - historically a Rankine-cycle steam turbine - to offset these swings, so you begin pulling the waveform out of sync. One idea is that smart-inverters could monitor the grid waveform and push it back to a steady sinusoid by injecting energy from backup batteries located on the generation side of the inverter. You'd lose your peak output most of the time as you'd have to supply energy to the batteries as well as the grid, but you'd be covered in the event of a sudden change in generation on your farm. You could also just use PV / wind in conjunction with a large steady generator like pumped-hydro. Use PV/wind to pump to the upper reservoir, use those same turbines to generate using upper->lower reservoir flow. CSP is also a great way around all that bullshit because you're using the same Rankine-cycle steam turbine you'd use with coal, nuclear, and the backside of combined-cycle natural gas. Steady as can be, and big concentrated power. Molten salt can also keep it going well after sunset with thermal energy storage. I'm rambling but it's a super neat emergent field and really needs some smart people figuring poo poo out.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:05
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We could also switch back over to DC now that we have efficient DC-DC converters (one of the biggest reasons AC won is because you can use transformers with it... feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I'm mostly a low voltage logic guy) and it'd be extra fun to watch people getting used to snuffing DC arcs instead of AC ones! If we did that, all this power factor and THD nonsense would go away.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:09
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kastein posted:We could also switch back over to DC now that we have efficient DC-DC converters (one of the biggest reasons AC won is because you can use transformers with it... feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I'm mostly a low voltage logic guy) and it'd be extra fun to watch people getting used to snuffing DC arcs instead of AC ones! If we did that, all this power factor and THD nonsense would go away. Don't you still need AC for transmission lines?
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Dec 13, 2016 19:12
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kastein posted:We could also switch back over to DC now that we have efficient DC-DC converters (one of the biggest reasons AC won is because you can use transformers with it... feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, I'm mostly a low voltage logic guy) and it'd be extra fun to watch people getting used to snuffing DC arcs instead of AC ones! If we did that, all this power factor and THD nonsense would go away. You are very very correct and the AC->DC change is more a "we already have the current infrastructure" problem than a technology one. I mean not only are your lines optimized for 3-phase AC, but you'd need all new transformers everywhere. Can you snuff a 500kV DC arc? My understanding is that you need a 0-crossover point to do it. e: Seat Safety Switch posted:Don't you still need AC for transmission lines? No you could theoretically change to DC if you replaced all the transformers in America.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:12
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To go into a bit more detail, the reason AC is so much better is: 1. You can reliably and efficiently step up to huge Voltage numbers using transformers, and therefore transmit power in tiny Amperage and save a bunch of potential losses due to current heat 2. 3-phase cuts down on the number of lines required as you can balance the generation->load map and don't need to run ground lines back to the generators. $$$$$. Reliably stabilizing that balance is currently what's loving poo poo up for renewables though. As Ken was saying, we've gotten way way way better at the first issue. I admit I don't know much about alternative ways to transmit high-voltage DC, if any.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:19
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DC arcs don't go out the way AC ones do, that's for sure. You don't NEED a zero crossing point, but it sure as hell helps. This is why switches that are commonly specced for AC and DC on the side often have much higher AC voltage and current specs than they do DC. DC breakers are also interesting to design, many of the common small ones I work with have load and line side requirements because they have to rely on a magnetic field internally to blow the arc into a snuffer grid and extinguish it instead of using thermal air currents to let it rise into the snuffer grid and/or go out on the next zero crossing. The problem is, if you wire a DC breaker wrong, or your load becomes your supply (like happens with customer renewable energy or motors being back driven) the magnetic field will force the arc the other way, keeping it out of the snuffer, and it'll just set the drat breaker on fire. e: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cup5fMGaE2g Seat Safety Switch posted:Don't you still need AC for transmission lines? Not really. HVDC has actually taken over a few inter-grid links specifically because it means no frequency synching or anything has to take place. But like Adiabatic said, you'd have to switch the entire grid over from AC to DC, which involves, off the top of my head: - replacing all transformers with DC-DC converters - respeccing and possibly replacing all fuses, breakers, and disconnects to handle arc snuffing under load with DC instead of AC - possibly replacing or reengineering lines and insulators, I know impedance and line spacing comes into play with AC but I am not sure how it all works out. - removing all power factor correction equipment such as capacitor banks, reactors, etc, since they don't work with DC and aren't needed - oh yeah all your industrial consumers better be alright with replacing all their gigantic AC motors for their equipment with DC ones, or installing DC-AC inverters to drive them it sure would make LED lighting and computer equipment makers happy though! 
kastein fucked around with this message at 19:25 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 19:20
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Hey this is outside the current chat but the car I got has XM and I've gotten a couple of spam emails from them. I really have no plan to subsribe. Did anyone have Sirius XM harass them on their phones (robocalls, etc) once their 90-day trial ended? I heard a couple of horror stories about that, and they actually settled for $35M recently for do not call violations. Three-Phase fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Dec 13, 2016 |
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Dec 13, 2016 19:26
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yeah they harassed me too, gently caress those guys with a sword garbage compressed quality radio anywhere you want to go, great!
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Dec 13, 2016 19:33
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Naw but I just got a year subscription and ElectricArea 52 and Chill 53 are now my home. I now live there.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:34
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BraveUlysses posted:yup. ideally you'd want gas stove with electric element oven Huh. Well, wife wants to remodel, and the house was originally equipped with a stovetop and separate double oven (though gas, as there's no 240V in the kitchen.) May look into it.
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Dec 13, 2016 19:47
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My oven's okay, but electric burners are got garbage as is, and on my particular unit the heat drops to effectively nothing* below about 1/4, and at that setting it'll still burn rice that's left to simmer; i have to use excess water to compensate for the fact that I have to pop the lid and stir every couple minutes. It's fine for big pots of stew and such, but god do I miss gas when I'm doing a fried egg or w/e. *by cooking standards, the burners are still warm to the touch but can't even sustain a simmer on my smallest pot with like 1/2 of water
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Dec 13, 2016 20:12
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And that's why I have a rice cooker sorry, not sorry
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Dec 13, 2016 20:25
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Three-Phase posted:Hey this is outside the current chat but the car I got has XM and I've gotten a couple of spam emails from them. I really have no plan to subsribe. They suck. I was getting three calls a day from them after I cancelled 6 years ago. It took cussing out a supervisor to get them to stop
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Dec 13, 2016 20:28
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