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Bought myself a MIG welder for christmas. http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/mig-welder-r-tech-i-mig180/ Have to wait till saturday to get some c25 and a spool of wire. Not going to lie, i was swayed to buy this one over a couple of other options by this guys Youtube videos about it. Its a nice Mig Weldah https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVjwNb6YjpA Also signed up for a traditional blacksmithing evening course starting in January, cant wait.
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Dec 13, 2016 21:34
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Have a look at the Cigweld 170 inverters, you should be able to pick one up for around $300, its a 15 amp plug, but I have run it from 10amp no problems. They run 3.2mm low hydrogen rods all day no worries. http://www.cigweld.com.au/product/weldskill-170-inverter-tool-box/
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Dec 14, 2016 07:55
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Thanks, they look good, but I'm a bit paranoid about risking anything in my rental property. I'm really leaning towards a 140 amp welder at the moment as I'm really just buying it to learn, and I can't see how I'll be limited in that respect by welding thinner material. Anything extra I spend will be subtracted from the mill I want to purchase, too. 140 amps: $250 160-200 amps: $700.... (including $200-$300 for the power point) What I'll be able to weld: Big difference What I'll learn in 6 weeks: Equal?
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Dec 14, 2016 09:10
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I have a historical question but what kind of welders where the most common during the 60's, 70's and 80s? By the 90s inverters started taking over I gathered, but earlier, what was the norm? Single phase rectifiers, ac buzzboxes?
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Dec 14, 2016 09:43
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Mudfly posted:Thanks, they look good, but I'm a bit paranoid about risking anything in my rental property. If you're teaching in a TAS faculty the HT should be alright with you spending your time learning a new skill with the equipment you have on hand. While teaching is a super busy job I've spent quite a bit of time over the last 3 years teaching myself a bunch of woodworking skills. I'd get my HT to teach me a pile of welding and other metalwork skills but I'm finishing up on Friday and heading to a new school next year where I'm hoping I'm able to learn a pile of metalworking stuff that will come into use in the future.
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Dec 14, 2016 10:45
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His Divine Shadow posted:I have a historical question but what kind of welders where the most common during the 60's, 70's and 80s? By the 90s inverters started taking over I gathered, but earlier, what was the norm? Single phase rectifiers, ac buzzboxes? e: also it kinda depends on what you mean by 'most common', like, if you were gonna run into a random welder in the wild in the 60s its probably gonna be a buzzbox or oxyfuel even tho afaik oxyfuel was already losing some of its niches in industry by then Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Dec 14, 2016 |
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Dec 14, 2016 16:34
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:If you're teaching in a TAS faculty the HT should be alright with you spending your time learning a new skill with the equipment you have on hand. While teaching is a super busy job I've spent quite a bit of time over the last 3 years teaching myself a bunch of woodworking skills. I'd get my HT to teach me a pile of welding and other metalwork skills but I'm finishing up on Friday and heading to a new school next year where I'm hoping I'm able to learn a pile of metalworking stuff that will come into use in the future. yeah, mudfly, i'd honestly wait and see how much after-hours access to equipment you might be able to finagle, especially if you've got any history with them and people know you're responsible and have their interests in mind. In your shoes I might offer to fab any non-critical widgets they might need on my own time, u know, torch holders or electrode racks or whatever thing they'd normally delegate to a shop tech. As long as they're paying for materials, anyhow. Alternately, consider a used welder to save a chunk of change. It's really hard to go wrong with a buzzbox used, there isn't much risk of them being lemons, I've heard people talk about theirs being in such bad shape they were too rusted to move without falling apart but they still ran fine because the guts are so drat simple.
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Dec 14, 2016 16:53
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Is there such a thing as a good source for a metal lathe for a 16" diameter x 40" work area in/near Georgia? I can find some older metal lathes (local pickup only multiple hundreds of miles away, plus no guarantee that the machine actually still works) and ridiculously tiny lathes, but once you start looking at new-made lathes I'm not sure what would be known to be a well-built machine any more. There's this circa 1980 16" x 32" lathe for a pretty decent price, but local pickup only on the listing or you arrange shipping (no real idea how to go about that). http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-16-X-32-SOUTH-BEND-TOOLROOM-LATHE-WITH-TAPER-CAMLOCK-SPINDLE-VIDEO-/291958524235 And this funny video on Youtube with a super enthusiastic seller for the same lathe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SzkY5nGWf0 How do you go about vetting that a particular lathe is any good if you find one locally, anyway?
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Dec 15, 2016 17:42
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biracial bear for uncut posted:How do you go about vetting that a particular lathe is any good if you find one locally, anyway? I'm not a fan of repainted / "reworked" ebay machines. We picked up a Bridgeport two years ago that was repainted and rescraped, though whoever did it had the talent of an orangutan. A few hours into running the machine and the quill feed broke then the power feed went. The table was out of square and had a funny sweep to it from where whoever flaked it didn't actually scrape it flat. I much prefer a well cared for, original machine. All the painting and scraping does is hide defects. I'd look at spindle runout, true flatness of the running surfaces, the crankcase oil condition, and peek into the nook and crannies. If I saw any evidence of a toolpost grinder being used I'd run. Beyond that look for a reputable brand and see what parts are available. I also check the electrical system too, a lot of machine tool coolant degrade the plastics. Nothing like a three phase contactor shattering apart.
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Dec 15, 2016 17:59
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For something as heavy and bulky as a lathe get used to the idea you have to sort shipping or collection. It's that simple.
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Dec 15, 2016 20:45
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I hate to be a cocktease about this, but I did a pour last night - in 5 degree (F) weather after dark. It was so cold the burner in the foundry wouldn't ignite the diesel and I had to start a kindling fire in it to preheat it. And there's no pictures of the pour itself because, go figure, my wife didn't want to come out to take pictures in 5 degree weather. But it worked! I'll post pictures after AISS is over. I'm exceptionally pleased.
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Dec 16, 2016 15:51
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cakesmith handyman posted:For something as heavy and bulky as a lathe get used to the idea you have to sort shipping or collection. It's that simple. Seriously. Even my little 9" is close to 500 lbs. That 16" in the video is right near a ton (listed as a crated weight of 2300 lbs). So you need to figure out 1.) if the seller has something that can move it onto your 2.) sufficiently beefy truck or trailer that you are prepared to proper lash it onto for transport (or if you already have and can bring your own moving equipment - we're talking fork truck here) or hire a riggers to move it. Either way, you best be showing up in person first to evaluate it with a flashlight, dial indicator, etc and the knowledge to check it out properly.
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Dec 18, 2016 01:42
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I'm building a desk out of 1" square thin-ish wall tubing (~0.62"). I plan on tigging it all together, anything I need to do other than clean the joint with acetone?
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Dec 18, 2016 20:58
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The blacksmithing course I signed up for sent me this link to a rather poorly optimised PDF of a very interesting book. http://www.hlcollege.ac.uk/Downloads/cp_blacksmith.html
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Dec 18, 2016 23:30
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Pimblor posted:I'm building a desk out of 1" square thin-ish wall tubing (~0.62"). I plan on tigging it all together, anything I need to do other than clean the joint with acetone? Gussets. Also I'd just use a braided wire cup/disk on your angle grinder to clean the ends. I've never used chemicals to clean steel that I'm about to weld. The UV can do crazy poo poo. (Like brake cleaner + Tig UV = phosgene gas)
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Dec 19, 2016 02:04
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I hear acetone is used, I've used denatured alcohol too.
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Dec 19, 2016 08:49
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Neither acetone nor alcohol will make anything poisonous when burned or exposed to UV light (other than CO and CO2, obviously). They will catch fire, but you won't gas yourself. It's chlorinated compounds that you have to worry about. Primarily this is brake cleaner, but some machining coolants and cutting fluids also contain chlorine, so watch out for those too. Always check the MSDS  Also, I can tell you from experience that you don't want to superglue parts together as a temporary fit-up for welding. I thought I was being real smart but turns out when you heat/burn cyanoacrylate superglue it makes some kind of incredibly acrid noxious fumes. I am not dead so I guess it's not lethal, but I'm never gonna do that again.
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Dec 19, 2016 10:59
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Acetone, alcohol and good old lighter fluid (zippo, swan) are all excellent degreasants for weld/braze joints. They evaporate extremely quickly so unless you've used so much that your workshop atmosphere has reached a stoichiometric mixture you're unlikely to set anything on fire.
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Dec 19, 2016 15:01
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Slung Blade posted:Gussets. Stupid question, but gussets are those little triangle dealies? edit: also, I meant 0.062" thickness on the tubing if that changes anything
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Dec 19, 2016 16:23
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Yeah I'm sure it's fine for lots of cleaners, I just don't like using them. Made some handles last night for a gift. Here's hoping I can get it done before Christmas.  The offset ones are mirrored, they're going to be log tongs. 
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Dec 19, 2016 16:28
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Pimblor posted:Stupid question, but gussets are those little triangle dealies? Yes, correct, they go in the corners of the joints. They don't necessarily have to be triangular, you just need something to stiffen the joints and lend strength to the structure. Triangles are very efficient at the job if you have an easy way to cut them though.
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Dec 19, 2016 16:32
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Reminder to myself to take better pictures this time - I'm casting some Dickbutts out of aluminum for Christmas presents. Because why not? And my brother in law's kind of a troll.
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Dec 19, 2016 18:50
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mekilljoydammit posted:Reminder to myself to take better pictures this time - I'm casting some Dickbutts out of aluminum for Christmas presents. Because why not? And my brother in law's kind of a troll. Yo how much do you want for one?
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Dec 19, 2016 19:41
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mekilljoydammit posted:Reminder to myself to take better pictures this time - I'm casting some Dickbutts out of aluminum for Christmas presents. Because why not? And my brother in law's kind of a troll. Lost wax or split sand cast?
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Dec 19, 2016 20:02
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Slung Blade posted:Yo how much do you want for one? What he said
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Dec 19, 2016 22:50
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Look, just wait to see what I made for AISS before you throw offers for that. I haven't even figured out my costs yet, still getting practice at all of it. That said, I'm hypothetically game? I'm doing lost PLA so far, which is exactly like lost wax except for coming out of a 3d printer.
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Dec 20, 2016 04:41
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Been fighting a cold since sunday. Took the afternoon off to rest, came home, napped for an hour, then I decided "it's +4c out there and I need some fresh air". Got the log tongs punched, bent, and lined up pretty decently well. Good enough for me, anyway.  I'm actually kind of proud of these for once.  Cleaned up the welds on the poker.  Gave it one of those little subtle twists you can lightly do in round bar.  Yeah, not too bad.  Got a start on the shovel too. loving poo poo I hate sheet metal. I twisted that handle a little too, just because.  I'm definitely going to sand the top down and taper the side flanges, but this is about the best box-bend job I could do with a vise and hammer   Now, how would you guys recommend I mount a handle to the broom?  Options I've come up with or been given thus far: -Drill up the wood handle, epoxy in the 3/8ths bar (I made the handle for the broom from 3/8ths to make it lighter, figuring you'd want it lighter while you sweep). Cons: loving hard to keep the drill straight in dowel. -make a flange, weld handle to it perpendicular, attach to broom with screws (cut wood handle, obv) cons: visible welds, kinda hokey -Just leave it as it, no need for a handle. cons:  -cut handle, drill out broom base, epoxy in a nut, thread the handle at the end, use another nut as a locknut. cons: epoxy takes a while to cure, threading rusty mild steel is eehhhh
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Dec 21, 2016 04:42
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Crossposted but screw it. Have some Dickbutt in progress pictures! A 3d printed Dickbutt, sitting on a 3d printed runner with 3d printed venting. The Dickbutt itself is about 3" tall as sitting, plus another 3" of runner.  The investment room! Also known as my kitchen. Why my wife lets me do stuff like this in the house I'll never know, but I'm glad she does. My investment recipe is 4 parts plaster, 4 parts sand, 3 parts water, by weight. At some point I'm going to go to goodwill or something and get an old eggbeater to stir it because I'm about tired of stirring this crap with a paint stirring stick. It's a bit more water than normal but that makes it runnier and a bit easier to work with.  One of the invested Dickbutts. Used an empty paint can from Home Depot to pour the stuff in - then will be popping it in a spare oven and baking at progressively higher temperatures until the water is baked out of the plaster and then the plastic is melted/burned out. Popped it in the oven this morning, will bake at 300F all day, then probably 500F tomorrow before firing up the foundry around 5pm.
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Dec 21, 2016 15:54
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Are you baking plastic in the kitchen oven you use to cook food in?
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Dec 21, 2016 15:59
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Thumposaurus posted:Are you baking plastic in the kitchen oven you use to cook food in? What could possibly go wrong? 
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Dec 21, 2016 16:07
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Nah, my folks upgraded from an electric to gas oven some years back, so we threw the old electric oven out in their barn. Comes in handy for this sort of thing, or heating up stuff to press bearings in, stuff like that.
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Dec 21, 2016 16:08
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mekilljoydammit posted:My investment recipe is 4 parts plaster, 4 parts sand, 3 parts water, by weight. At some point I'm going to go to goodwill or something and get an old eggbeater to stir it because I'm about tired of stirring this crap with a paint stirring stick. It's a bit more water than normal but that makes it runnier and a bit easier to work with. In the future, paint on a first coat of water, plaster, and ground silica, then put it in the bucket with the sand investment after it's partly dried. You'll get a much smoother finish without the roughness of the sand. Wear a respirator though!
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Dec 21, 2016 19:25
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door Door door posted:In the future, paint on a first coat of water, plaster, and ground silica, then put it in the bucket with the sand investment after it's partly dried. You'll get a much smoother finish without the roughness of the sand. Wear a respirator though! Thanks for the tip! I'm mostly self taught on this stuff plus a smattering of reading online, so it's good to have input. So far my results have been about as smooth at my patterns, but that's not saying much when the patterns are 3d printed. I'll try that when I get to more finely detailed stuff for sure.
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Dec 21, 2016 20:00
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r41dcYUvNLk I think this is the craziest forging video I've ever seen.
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Dec 22, 2016 14:15
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I thought he was skiing, like a holiday themed dickbutt.
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Dec 22, 2016 14:25
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Pagan posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r41dcYUvNLk This is absolutely mental. I can't imagine things would be done this way in any country with any sort of safety standards, but you've got to give those fork truck drivers a hell of a lot of credit.
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Dec 22, 2016 17:01
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i'm the guy at 17:01 using vernier calipers in 2016.
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Dec 22, 2016 17:22
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Volkerball posted:i'm the guy at 17:01 using vernier calipers in 2016. well, you can't break the dial on one...
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Dec 22, 2016 20:15
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CrazyLittle posted:well, you can't break the dial on one... We still use vernier calipers and mics on ops where the parts are acidic. IP67 only lasts so long against corrosive liquids. The R&R's are surprisingly good with a skilled operator.
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Dec 22, 2016 20:52
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Motronic posted:This is absolutely mental. I can't imagine things would be done this way in any country with any sort of safety standards, but you've got to give those fork truck drivers a hell of a lot of credit. You'd be right. Meanwhile in Europe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEF2erBBVZ4
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Dec 22, 2016 21:10
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