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Related question, how do you adjust the accessory belt tensioner for an 06 Yaris/xA/xB? Everything I found online points out the tensioner, and then ignores it to just slide the alternator on its bracket to adjust the tension instead, which doesn't seem right to me. I'm not opposed to doing it that way, I just want see if that's the way I am supposed to do it before I ignore the tensioner pulley when trying to get the proper tension on the belt
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Dec 17, 2016 06:27
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The Door Frame posted:Related question, how do you adjust the accessory belt tensioner for an 06 Yaris/xA/xB? That's probably correct. My car uses a screw adjuster to pull the alternator out and put tension on the belt, then a bolt that clamps it in place once it's tensioned. Some cars forgo the screw and just have you yank the alternator till the belt's tight, then clamp the bolt down. E: If your tensioner looks like this:  then you'd loosen the short screw (whose head is on the back side of the bracket in the photo), then loosen the long screw to let the tension off the belt. Installation actually is the reverse of removal. If there's no long screw on yours, you'd use a prybar to tension it instead. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Dec 17, 2016 |
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Dec 17, 2016 06:40
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That's how my 99 Nissan Altima was. Crank on one alternator bolt (which adjusted the angle of the alternator) until the belt was tight, then tighten the other 2 bolts. It looked a lot like Enourmo's picture, except without the locking bolt. The Hondas I've owned (80s and 90s mostly) pretty much required putting a prybar behind the alternator, tightening the alternator bolts, and hoping you got it right without using whatever belt deflection tool you're supposed to use. If you hear bearing whine, it's too tight.
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Dec 17, 2016 06:47
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:If you hear bearing whine, it's too tight. 
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Dec 17, 2016 08:06
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Enourmo posted:That's probably correct. My car uses a screw adjuster to pull the alternator out and put tension on the belt, then a bolt that clamps it in place once it's tensioned. Some cars forgo the screw and just have you yank the alternator till the belt's tight, then clamp the bolt down. I wish. That's custom fab, and what I was actually expecting to find from my Civic and my folk's Outback of about the same year having similar set ups to properly tension the belts. Instead, here's an action shot pulled off a scion forum to illustrate both the OEM bracket and the reason I'm doublechecking this... advised method of belt tensioning before jamming a prybar into the alternator like an rear end in a top hat 
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Dec 17, 2016 08:07
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Didn't even read that thread, whoops. So yeah, that's common on entry-level cars, just gotta use a finely calibrated elbow. And preferably pry on solid parts of the case, not the fins between the cooling vents.
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Dec 17, 2016 08:15
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Enourmo posted:Didn't even read that thread, whoops. So yeah, that's common on entry-level cars, just gotta use a finely calibrated elbow. And preferably pry on solid parts of the case, not the fins between the cooling vents. Ok, so I do just adjust the alternator itself, thank you. That first picture actually did trick me too. I wanted to know where they hid the adjusting bolt before I opened the hood and only got more confused than if I didn't check beforehand. And I'm not dumb enough to actually adjust it in the way it's pictured, but a prybar shows up in a frighteningly large portion of DIY guides. And it perfectly illustrated my hesitation to follow similar instructions I may or may not have killed an alternator before I realized that tight as possible =/= tight as it should be and just bought the $15 deflection gauge that I originally should have. $120 and trying to loosen an overtightened wingnut that's got almost no clearance between it and the evap fan will definitely teach a lesson
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Dec 17, 2016 08:57
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Thanks! It is sometimes impossible to see when a belt is worn out, but it might just not be rubbery enough to provide enough traction on the various pulleys. Replacing the idlers on the tensioner is usually to replace the bearings which do sometimes wear out, but you'll hear that when it happens. If the tensioner mechanism itself seems to move freely (but still "springy") when you change the belt, it's probably good.
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Dec 17, 2016 14:20
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First post here, so if I'm being an idiot please feel free to comment, but my 2013 Ford Escape has suddenly developed an issue. While driving, the check engine light suddenly lit up, as well as a very dramatic message to the effect of "car overheating, pull over immediately." The temperature dial was all the way up, and the car wouldn't go any faster than ~5 mph, along with a bunch of shuddering. When I turned the car off and on, there are no warnings or messages while it's idling. As soon as I start driving it, the above happens, within a few seconds. This even happens after I've left it to chill for hours, so I really don't think the engine is actually overheating. When I turn it off and pop the hood, it doesn't feel warm at all. We have a friend with one of the scan tool things (OBDII) who pulled the status from the car computer, and it's reporting P1299, so low coolant/bad temperature sensor. The coolant level itself is fine, so I'm guessing it's more likely a bad sensor, but this is where I go completely into guessing. First, is there any way I can really be sure it's the sensor and not something more serious? Second, if I can confirm it's this sensor, is that something a relatively unexperienced person could replace safely? My wife's worked with cars some before, and I've done lots of work with electronics of all sorts, so we're generally competent with our hands, but never done anything like this on a car itself. EDIT: The engine is the 1.6L ecoboost ghostgirl118 fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Dec 17, 2016 |
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Dec 17, 2016 20:01
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The part costs between $15 and 30, depending on which engine you have, so replacing it is probably the cheapest next step. It's probably not difficult to do, but ultimately it comes down to exactly where in the engine bay it sits and how easily you can maneuver your hands/tools to it. You can probably find a video of someone doing it on youtube, or maybe a how-to on a ford escape enthusiast forum somewhere; that's if nobody here has specifics.
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Dec 17, 2016 20:24
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Back to door jamb switches in Civics! The jerk who installed my switches must've used glue or something on the screw threads, because these fuckers aren't budging. I get camout from the (Phillips-head, naturally) screw even if I'm putting as much weight as I possibly can on it while I turn. Any ideas how I can get the drat screw out so I can replace the door jamb switch?
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Dec 17, 2016 21:06
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The part is in stock at a near by O'Reilley's, so we can buy it. But where can you find a diagram of the engine to locate the actual part? If we could, I would just drive it over to the shop and ask them to help me find it, but if the sensor switches, it shuts down the engine immediately.
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Dec 17, 2016 21:13
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ghostgirl118 posted:The part is in stock at a near by O'Reilley's, so we can buy it. But where can you find a diagram of the engine to locate the actual part? If we could, I would just drive it over to the shop and ask them to help me find it, but if the sensor switches, it shuts down the engine immediately. So long as they aren't a bunch of lazy morons who can't find their rear end with both hands and a flashlight, they should be able to look up component locations through their vehicle help system at oreillys. Only exception is if it is too new to be in there, which I've personally never run inti with our system.
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Dec 17, 2016 21:34
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While you're there, it might not be a bad idea to buy a repair manual. They're usually in front of/under the counter.
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Dec 17, 2016 21:44
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I'm the dude from earlier with the '94 Ford Ranger head gasket valve cover issue, wherein I was concerned I got screwed on repair costs because a friend looked at the vehicle and said "dude you got fukt" The invoice reads: Valve Cover Gasket Set Parts -- $96.88 Labor -- $225.00 If it helps, this is for the valve cover on the driver's side, not both valve covers. My sticking point is that looking at the drat thing even I can tell nobody did poo poo to it other than tighten down one bolt. Surely it shouldn't cost $225 for someone to grab a wrench and pull kind of hard?
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Dec 17, 2016 23:37
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:dude you got fukt You seriously got hosed. It's the v6, right? A quick Google indicates that part should cost around ten bucks, which covers both sides and includes an upper intake manifold gasket. I've never done the job myself but the labour charge seems really high as well.
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Dec 17, 2016 23:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Back to door jamb switches in Civics! The jerk who installed my switches must've used glue or something on the screw threads, because these fuckers aren't budging. I get camout from the (Phillips-head, naturally) screw even if I'm putting as much weight as I possibly can on it while I turn. Sound like a textbook case for an impact driver.  Wail on it with a BFH and it converts it into loosening, with hardened tool driver bits.
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Dec 18, 2016 01:01
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:I'm the dude from earlier with the '94 Ford Ranger head gasket valve cover issue, wherein I was concerned I got screwed on repair costs because a friend looked at the vehicle and said "dude you got fukt" Was it a snap on wrench?
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Dec 18, 2016 02:51
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Enourmo posted:Sound like a textbook case for an impact driver. Noted, thanks for the recommendation.
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Dec 18, 2016 02:52
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Last night it was -2F and when I started my '99 impreza there was a huge squealing that went on until I shut it off maybe 1 minute later. I got the belts done 2 years and ~25k miles ago, the timing belt maybe 6-7 years and 60,000 miles ago. I have been meaning to change the antifreeze for over a year now, although I can't find anything indicating that noise could be a problem with that. I'm thinking it's the non-timing belts being too tight, but OTOH I really don't want to snap the timing belt on an interference engine. It's also taking longer to start this winter. I need to look at the PO's notes, but is there any way to tell whether that is a battery problem or a starter problem? Should I just get the battery checked at AutoZone?
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Dec 18, 2016 18:07
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Belts get very stiff and gripless at temperatures that low, so the squealing was just belts slipping on cold pulleys. They should be fine once it warms up again. Weird noises that occur sporadically only under unusual circumstances are usually not indicative of a problem. Belts squealing regularly at 70°F need to be looked at.
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Dec 18, 2016 18:34
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My brand-new '93 ranger was making a front-axle thump in four wheel drive. It was disconcerting so i drove it around the block to try to pinpoint the noise and parked it. Then it shat out this thing: Looks like the internal axis of a U-joint, right? I went under and found 5 u-joints: two on the front drive line and three on the rear. All of them are fine: no play, no missing axes. Weirdly, four-wheel drive seems to work and there is no more thump.  is going on here? It's a manual with the 4.0L.
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Dec 18, 2016 18:46
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Deteriorata posted:Belts get very stiff and gripless at temperatures that low, so the squealing was just belts slipping on cold pulleys. They should be fine once it warms up again. Okay, good. I just went out at about 7F to make sure I can take it out today and there's no squealing. I had heard it for just a few seconds some other cold mornings. I was afraid the squealing meant it was in danger of snapping.
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Dec 18, 2016 18:53
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I can't remember if a 93 ranger is TTB or IFS. Look just inboard of the wheels and see if it is missing a ujoint there or in the middle right near the inboard side of the front diff, and also whether it has TTB with ujoint shafts, or IFS with CVs. If it has IFS with CVs I am confused, if it has TTB you are lucky you didn't just separate your balljoints and lose a wheel, but probably need replacement axleshafts due to that flying out and your 4wd may "work" as in not bind up but probably isn't actually working now. E: yeah you have TTB. You almost certainly need new shafts now on the side that blew up because it probably tore the ears off when that escaped, still, you are lucky you didn't lose a wheel. You may need spindle bearings (not wheelbearings) on that side as well as any grease seals that got tore up. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/dana_28_35.shtml kastein fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 18:53
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You nailed it, kastein: it's the front drivers's side hub and the axle shaft is pretty well sheared. Since this is the stupid questions thread, I have two more: 1. Is this thing now unsafe to drive, even in 2wd, until i get it fixed? 2. Is it technically a 3wd vehicle now, assuming power is sent to one functioning axle shaft and one that's not connected to anything? This question is mostly academic: I'm curious but I'm not going to go three-wheelin around.
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Dec 18, 2016 19:22
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At best if it is limited slip front diff you have 2.5wd. At worst it is 2wd, which is most likely. I would have to look at it myself to decide if it could be driven that way. If the inner and outer shafts can slide toward each other enough that the jagged ends where the ujoint used to go will touch, I would avoid driving it at all, unless you can unlock the front hubs and leave it that way. I don't know anything about early ranger hubs so I will leave that to someone who does. Maybe they are manual, maybe always locked, maybe automatic... E: assuming you are handy with a wrench you can fix this for probably 50 bucks in parts from the junkyard. New complete inner/outer shaft assembly from the right axle (that page details the several options they came with) and right year, new spindle if you trashed it (unlikely), new spindle seal and roller bearing off rockauto, reassembly is reverse of disassembly. The worst part is going to be taking it apart for the first time without knowing what you are doing, so either buy a shop manual on ebay for it, or practice on the junkyard donor so you don't screw yours up. Preferably both. If you had realized the thumping was bad and not broken it this badly, it would need all the same disassembly/reassembly, but a 20 dollar new ujoint and nothing else. Speaking of which, this is where you replace the passenger side and center ujoints so you don't have the same thing happen on those ones in 6 months. Ujoints tend to last about the same amount of time, especially when used the same way. It may need driveshaft joints soon too but I would wait till the first one starts getting janky then do all the joints in that shaft, etc. kastein fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 19:28
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Cool, thanks. I have a rebuild manual and I'll look into it. Hopefully it can wait until the weather climbs above zero F. E: it has automatic hubs. I'll keep it in 2wd until it has a couple new u-joints and an axle shaft. Lesson learned. Thanks for your speedy advice, kastein Jesse Ventura fucked around with this message at 20:02 on Dec 18, 2016 |
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Dec 18, 2016 19:42
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How do I unstick seized calipers? My air compressor can't do it at full pressure and I don't want to spend $200 on a diesel injector pop tester since I wouldn't ever have a use for it besides this
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Dec 19, 2016 01:31
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Are calipers for your vehicle particularly expensive and/or hard to find? If it's seized I'd just replace it.
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Dec 19, 2016 02:00
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Geoj posted:Are calipers for your vehicle particularly expensive and/or hard to find? If it's seized I'd just replace it. More money than I'd spend on the pop tester, even if I had to replace 2 of the 4 pistons. 81 Fiat X1/9
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Dec 19, 2016 02:42
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ionn posted:It is sometimes impossible to see when a belt is worn out, but it might just not be rubbery enough to provide enough traction on the various pulleys. Replacing the idlers on the tensioner is usually to replace the bearings which do sometimes wear out, but you'll hear that when it happens. If the tensioner mechanism itself seems to move freely (but still "springy") when you change the belt, it's probably good. Well, spent 6 hours trying to replace the belt today. There isn't nearly enough room to get a breaker bar in there and rotate it far enough to loosen the tensioner. I tried from the top and the bottom with no luck. Ended up breaking half the stupid plastic rivet things trying to remove the splash guard. Returned the belt and tool, bought more plastic rivet thingies, only to get home and find out they're too big. Goddammit. I need to bring it in to have a handful of the motor mounts replaced as well as finding a leak in the trunk that fills up the tail lights when it rains. I'll just add it to the list 
Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Dec 19, 2016 |
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Dec 19, 2016 03:13
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So I've got a 2000 Maxima SE automatic with ~106k miles on it. Recently on cool (for SoCal) mornings, about 60F, it's had a tendency to not shift into first after low-speed downhill stops. If I think about it and make sure I'm at a dead stop for a few seconds, it'll engage before I set off, but if not it'll be in neutral and thump into first about mid-intersection. Once the system's warm at all it doesn't happen. Is this a sign that I should think about replacing the ATF earlier than 120k (last was at the 90k service, about 4-5 years ago), a sign I have a 17-year-old car, or a sign of something worse?
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Dec 19, 2016 05:46
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Well, spent 6 hours trying to replace the belt today. There isn't nearly enough room to get a breaker bar in there and rotate it far enough to loosen the tensioner. I tried from the top and the bottom with no luck. Ended up breaking half the stupid plastic rivet things trying to remove the splash guard. Returned the belt and tool, bought more plastic rivet thingies, only to get home and find out they're too big. Goddammit. Well that sucks to hear, I feel complicit in suggesting it would be easy. I saw a video where the guy used a socket on a ratchet, with a cheater pipe for added leverage, it looked like the pipe was angled forward and up. He said something like "there's very little space you just have to be patient and finesse it".
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Dec 19, 2016 07:45
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Tricky Ed posted:So I've got a 2000 Maxima SE automatic with ~106k miles on it. Recently on cool (for SoCal) mornings, about 60F, it's had a tendency to not shift into first after low-speed downhill stops. If I think about it and make sure I'm at a dead stop for a few seconds, it'll engage before I set off, but if not it'll be in neutral and thump into first about mid-intersection. Once the system's warm at all it doesn't happen. Did you change the transmission filter during any of the ATF changes? Or just do a drain/refill?
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Dec 19, 2016 08:37
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I have a bit of an emergency. A co-worker and I swapped work vans for reasons this weekend, and his alarm system is hosed. I tried to get in to clear snow off for tomorrow, and the alarm goes off every which way I try to enter. It's a 2008 Dodge Caravan, and the driver's side lock is hosed. If I go in any way BUT the driver's side, the fucker goes off. If I get inside and get the alarm off.. the ignition interlock sets the alarm off anyway and it doesn't start. It's Sunday night near christmas and I can't get a hold of the dude to ask if he's got some trick to it, but as it stands I need figure this out. The only solution that doesn't require diagnostic tools or computers is a hard reset where I disconnect the battery terminals.. but I gotta get in it first! So am I the rear end in a top hat who wakes people up in the middle of the night, or early in the morning?  There's no fob, which I think would have avoided the problem.. but if anyone has heard of this before and knows a trick I'm all ears.
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Dec 19, 2016 08:58
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Go in the passenger door, unlock driver's door. Arm. Open driver's door? Or even open it and manually hold down the door button.
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Dec 19, 2016 09:04
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Do you know if this is a factory or aftermarket alarm? Can you even get the key into the drivers door lock and turn it? If you can... try turning it as if you were going to unlock the van, even if it doesn't actually unlock it. If it's the factory alarm, most factory alarms (not all - I'm looking at you, GM) have a switch on the keyed lock that will disarm the alarm when unlocked with the key. If it's aftermarket, there should be a valet switch somewhere that will also disable the alarm. Turning on the ignition and flipping that switch within a couple of seconds of turning it on should turn off the alarm. It's usually on the drivers side kickpanel or drivers side bottom dash somewhere. Aftermarket would have a keyfob, though it could have been lost through the years, and somehow someone kicked the valet switch and turned the alarm back on over the past couple of days. Aftermarket usually has a flashing LED on the dash (not in the cluster) somewhere.
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Dec 19, 2016 10:19
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Do you know if this is a factory or aftermarket alarm? Pretty sure it's factory. There IS a flashing blue LED on the dash, but no fob to be seen or heard of. I don't know if there's a valet switch, and I wouldn't have the first idea where to find it. I seriously cannot be sitting there, poking under the dash while the alarm is going off at 6:40 in the morning in the dark. I can get the key into the driver's lock but I can't turn it at all. I think at this point I'm not making it to work on time anyway, so I'll leave it to my dispatch to figure out what the gently caress.
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Dec 19, 2016 15:47
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Factory wouldn't have a flashing blue LED; at most there'd be an occasional flash from a light in a factory location on the cluster.
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Dec 19, 2016 20:14
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Does anyone have experience with repairing malfunctioning power windows? 2009 Hyundai Elantra GLS. The issue affects the front passenger window only. If you're pressing the buttons on the driver side's armrest, the power window buttons work normally. But if you press the buttons on the front passenger's armrest, it can pull the window down, but won't bring the window upward. Which could make for a really interesting trip through the car wash ("Aahhhh roll up the window! PRESS THE BUTTON FASTER!") I suspect that the switch on the passenger side's button panel needs to be fixed/replaced. Am I correct in assuming this? Just trying to figure it all out before I disassemble the interior side of the door for a closer look.
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Dec 19, 2016 20:49
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