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PuTTY riot posted:I guess I should've specified that they've vinyl. But the PO installed speakers in the backyard so I think I'll be alright. Just installed a Hikvision camera into vinyl, it's light enough. Used some deck screws. The Cat 5 was dogged by my security system installers several months ago. Using POE for power.
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Dec 22, 2016 22:01
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emocrat posted:Can you give me a little more detail here? it sounds awesome. Hue bulbs I get. Smart things I think I get, looks like its a video monitoring system, but I guess its a general smart hub as well? What motion sensors do you use? Thanks. SmartThings is a whole home automation platform, it has Z-Wave and ZigBee antenna as well can do cloud to cloud integration with other services, it was WAY more than just videos I use Zigbee motion sensors: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Smar...rds=smartthings SmartThings has a SmartApp (which is a rule) called SmartLighting, it allows you to say "If a motion sensors detects motion between x hour and y hour turn on Light, when motion is no longer detected either turn light off right away or wait z number of minutes then turn off"
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Dec 22, 2016 23:46
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I'm new to all this - I'm getting some family members Echo Dots for Christmas. I want to include some cheap wifi-lightbulbs or wifi-outlet switches with the Echos to use as a demo. What would you all recommend? I'm reading about the Zigbee products and don't want to deal with that - just something that will pair with the Echo out of the box.
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Dec 23, 2016 03:41
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EugeneJ posted:I'm new to all this - I'm getting some family members Echo Dots for Christmas. I know you don't want Zigbee but I had the best luck with Philips Hue bulbs, they use their own bridge so you don't need a smart home platform to run them. Best Buy has the pure white starter kit on sale for $56 bucks, comes with the 2 dimable white lights and the hub http://www.bestbuy.com/site/philips-hue-white-a19-starter-kit-in-eco-friendly-packaging-white/5708713.p?skuId=5708713 Setting up the Starter kit is simple as I believe the bulbs are pre paired to the hub they come with (I know that is how it worked when I got my starter kit 4 years ago), just down load the Hue app, create an account, and pair it with the hub Setting it up with the Echo is easy, open the Alexa app on your phone, go to Smart Home, under the Header of "Your Devices" click on "Discover devices", you will have to press the middle button on the hue bridge to pair, after that the bulbs will show in the Alexa app. From there you can group them by a common name, so instead of saying "Alexa, turn on light 1" and "Alexa, turn on light 2"; you can just say "Alexa turn on group name A". The echo can also send dimming command "Alexa, dim <group/light name> to ##(%)" Why Hue? I've tried a bunch of different wifi, ZWave, and Zigbee lights over the years from Lifx (Wifi), Osram (Zigbee), Cree Connect (ZigBee), and GE Link (Z wave I think) and they all had issues with either cloud issues (for Lifx), dropping commands (Cree and GE were horrible at that, you would send an on or dim command and nothing will happen), and bulbs losing connection with my hub (Osram was horrible with that, but I've heard there has been a firmware update to fix it). With Hue I've had very few issues, mainly when I started it was on the same 2.4Ghz channel as one of the access point in my house, so it would lose connection to the bulbs a lot, after I changed the Zigbee channel I've never had an issue. Also once you have the hue bridge you can add lights, switches, and motion sensors (they all have to be the Hue branded sensors)to make a simple smart house. The cheapest light on it's own is $15 which is the dimable white bulbs upto the $90 color light strip. The only con with all Smart bulbs is, you have to keep the light switch on, if someone turn off the light switch you lose control of the bulb until it is turned back on, I've put child proof covers over mine so no one turns them off by accident. Dbhjed fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 04:45
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Dbhjed posted:lots of helpful information Thank you! One more question - do the smart bulbs last longer than normal lightbulbs, or do they die just as quick and need to be replaced often?
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Dec 23, 2016 04:50
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EugeneJ posted:Thank you! The longest I've had a Smart bulb for is 4 years, and it is still going strong. Two of them are in a room that is used most often so the are on for 5-6 hours every day for the past 4 year. LED bulbs (good ones) are supposed to last 15,000 hours so I should have another 4 years left on those ones. But really since CFL lights have come out on the market the only reason I've changed a light bulb is because I've upgraded them, CFL -> dumb LED -> Smart LED. So I wouldn't worry about them dying (unless there is an issue with the electrical circuit) Dbhjed fucked around with this message at 05:04 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 05:01
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Unless you rent or don't have a neutral do not buy smart bulbs. Put in smart switches, trust me, it's so much more worth the effort. I do not understand why smart bulbs are so much more popular that smart switches, trying to automate your home with a light switch that doesn't work is the stupidest thing I can imagine in home automation.
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Dec 23, 2016 05:15
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Three Olives posted:Unless you rent or don't have a neutral do not buy smart bulbs. Put in smart switches, trust me, it's so much more worth the effort. Don't you need smart bulbs to do the changing-color and dimming?
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Dec 23, 2016 05:25
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Three Olives posted:Unless you rent or don't have a neutral do not buy smart bulbs. Put in smart switches, trust me, it's so much more worth the effort. For me I went the Bulbs because most of my switches are connected to ceiling fans which share the load wire with the Fan and Lights, and I wanted dimming in each room. But yeah for the rooms that have over head lighting and neutrals I did the switches, why the bulbs are popular, a lot of people aren't comfortable / know how to do electrical work (and as you said renting). I also put a color light in each room that is occupied often (bedrooms, office, living room, family room) in case anyone has headphones on / I have some friends that are deaf or hard of hearing, that way if there is a fire or carbon monoxide event they will see the color and know something is up. I also use the color in case one of my water sensor trips. I might not look at my phone that often, but I know if I wake up and my color are blue I have a problem. I also like the bulbs because If I ever move I don't have to re wire again. In the rooms that I have the bulbs, I bought the Hue Tap or Hue Dimmer and put it right next to the light switch for people that don't have the app (also my automation takes care of A LOT if the light turning off and on) it has been years since I've touch a switch EugeneJ posted:Don't you need smart bulbs to do the changing-color and dimming? Color, Yes; Dimming, you can buy a dimming switch that will dim the lights. To give some support to the bulbs, I have an automation that works like this. code:Dbhjed fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 05:29
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EugeneJ posted:Don't you need smart bulbs to do the changing-color and dimming? Dimming no, color changing? I mean really, do you need color changing? If that is important to you your automatic hub will handle the smart bulbs in conjunction with your smart switches But think long and hard on what your use case of color changing bulbs is because you almost certainly will be better off putting the switches in and then upgrading to color changing bulbs later on if budget is an issue and you must have them.
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Dec 23, 2016 05:35
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Dbhjed posted:In the rooms that I have the bulbs, I bought the Hue Tap or Hue Dimmer and put it right next to the light switch for people that don't have the app (also my automation takes care of A LOT if the light turning off and on) it has been years since I've touch a switch This is why people hate technology, a light switch is a light switch, it is one of the most fundamental understandings of modern technology. Don't gently caress up a light switch unless you have a very good reason to and adding a secondary light switch to the setup fucks things up. My home is very automated but my rule is if I have to explain to my mother how my loving light switches work I haven't improved anything.
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Dec 23, 2016 05:46
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Three Olives posted:This is why people hate technology, a light switch is a light switch, it is one of the most fundamental understandings of modern technology. Don't gently caress up a light switch unless you have a very good reason to and adding a secondary light switch to the setup fucks things up. I put child proof covers over the actual light switches, so you can't use them. The only rooms that don't have some kind of automation are my kitchen and bathrooms, and those have z wave switches. All the rest you walk in to the room and boom you have light.  Dbhjed fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 05:48
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In my place I put a color changing Osram bulb in the living room connected to a smarthings hub and used one of these to cover the light switch but still have, you know, a light switch to control it.
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Dec 23, 2016 07:22
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Three Olives posted:
Is it really that hard to explain it though? I have a lot of non-techie friends of various ages and they get that they can say "Alexa turn on living room" and the living room lights will come on. It's not rocket science. This of course assumes you have voice control. For $50 there's really no excuse not to though.
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Dec 23, 2016 07:29
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housefly posted:Is it really that hard to explain it though? I have a lot of non-techie friends of various ages and they get that they can say "Alexa turn on living room" and the living room lights will come on. It's not rocket science. It kind of sucks that you have to explain anything vs having a button on the wall labeled appropriately. And it's cool when you want the group to turn on, but harder to know the trigger for a specific light (Is it light over couch? couch light? couch lamp? etc). Three Olives posted:Dimming no, color changing? I mean really, do you need color changing? I absolutely love the ability to change color temperature automatically and it's kind of bullshit to question others to further your methodology. But I also make sure that my neutral-wired switches are smart and able to control my smart bulbs via software. Also, those neutral wired switches can control multiple smart bulbs now which is also cool and good. So you're not wrong. Everything has a purpose and if you dabble with a couple of smart bulbs to dip your toe in, it's not like you are wasting a ton of money or won't be able to use them in some way. (Or, sell them to me) sellouts fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 08:02
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WithoutTheFezOn posted:When you do set up the harmony hub, do yourself a favor if possible and do it from a computer (through downloaded hub software) rather than a mobile device. The mobile apps work, but holy cow are they clunky (on iOS at least). 2009-era app design with multi-level menus everywhere. Back back back back back. TL;DR: Setup bad. Works great now. Ability to do RF? Setting this thing up was a NIGHTMARE! Just awful. It took me trying with computer, android app and remote itself to finally get my devices setup to send IR from the right source. I needed the remote itself to send it to the tv and the hub/blasters to send IR to the receiver and DirecTV box. That and getting it to control the DirecTV box proved difficult. It "discovered" the device but only the power on and off would work. Then I manually added it on computer as HR44-500 that it recommended. No dice. Finally added it as HR44 and it found it and somehow added it as "DirecTV DVR" and it works great. Also, is it possible to control the DirecTV box via RF or does the Harmony Hub not do RF? I would like to keep it in RF mode so I can control it with a DirecTV remote on patio our in another room.
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Dec 23, 2016 12:24
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sellouts posted:It kind of sucks that you have to explain anything vs having a button on the wall labeled appropriately. I have to confess that I don't label my light switches. I do have smart switches though, so there are still options for those trapped in the prison of the physical. Can one get a wireless z-wave/whatever switch that triggers a smartbulb? Scrapez posted:Also, is it possible to control the DirecTV box via RF or does the Harmony Hub not do RF? I would like to keep it in RF mode so I can control it with a DirecTV remote on patio our in another room. Harmony uses IR to control DirecTV from what I can tell. DirecTV receivers apparently support wifi control, so that might change in the future?
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Dec 23, 2016 12:57
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Harmony: the remote talks to the hub through RF, the hub talks to devices through IR. I don't know of a way to change that.
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Dec 23, 2016 15:48
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The hub can also talk to devices via wifi and Bluetooth. I use wifi for my TV, and Bluetooth for my PS4.
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Dec 23, 2016 15:57
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I suspect the Harmony Hub was trying to communicate with the DirecTV receiver via wifi when I first "discovered" it in the app. However, as mentioned, it did not function at all. Perhaps I'll play around with that more as having native remote control via RF and Harmony control via wifi would be ideal for my setup. As it is, I'd need to use my phone as a remote on the patio or install an IR blaster from patio to equipment closet. Edit: did wifi discovery again. Harmony finds DirecTV receiver as Coolsat 5000 but then does not control it. Looks like a known limitation as referenced here (see 2nd to last post): https://community.logitech.com/s/question/0D53100005ykDD4CAM/companion-and-directv-hr54500 Pretty lame. Why find it if you can't control it? This is what gave me such problems setting up the Harmony to begin with. Scrapez fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Dec 23, 2016 |
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Dec 23, 2016 17:17
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Subjunctive posted:I have to confess that I don't label my light switches. I do have smart switches though, so there are still options for those trapped in the prison of the physical. I only label mine with the Insteon 50 button set: http://www.smarthome.com/insteon-2401bt50-popular-50-button-set-for-keypadlinc-white.html. I could custom etch them but I can get the point across for most of them. My indigo domotics system ties in Insteon buttons to speak to the Hue hub via a plugin: http://forums.indigodomo.com/viewtopic.php?t=9065. This lets me use variables for color temperature and execute commands via python scripts.
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Dec 24, 2016 06:35
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On the smart switch/plug vs. smart bulb debate... only the ceiling lights in our house are controlled by switches. The rest of the lights are on end tables and such, and are switched at the lamp. Using a smart bulb works better for us because you can always turn the light on at the lamp, just by turning the knob a couple of times. We could hardwire a smart plug in to the wall but I don't see how it would be an improvement.
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Dec 24, 2016 16:20
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If I put in some smart switches to control canned lighting, do I also need a smart hub of some kind to control them with phone/Alexa? If yes, which hub is considered the best right now? I see Logitech had an add-on to the Harmony Hub that I already have but I'm less than impressed with the hub software so hesitant to go that route unless it's awesome. Samsung smart things is one I was kind of leaning towards.
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Dec 24, 2016 18:29
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Scrapez posted:If I put in some smart switches to control canned lighting, do I also need a smart hub of some kind to control them with phone/Alexa? I went with Samsung, given similar impressions of the Harmony stuff, but haven't set it up yet.
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Dec 24, 2016 18:33
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I am a fan of Insteon personally. Just opened my Echo and it worked perfectly. Recognized all my names and scenes immediately. Very impressed with the integration.
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Dec 24, 2016 18:40
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Some switches do not require a hub (like some TP-Link ones, I think) but most seem to. The Smart things hub is a solid choice from everything I've read. Relatively easy to use, wide variety of things it can control, and I doubt it's going to disappear from the market in the near future.
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Dec 24, 2016 18:42
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Just wanted to chime in Smart Things support is awesome, I was having trouble with a motion sensor that was past the one year warranty, and within minutes of contacting chat support they shipped out a new one, no questions asked. Plus their app has gotten a lot better and simpler over the last year, it's definitely where I think it should be. Only design thing I dislike is changing batteries, the retaining clip is a bitch to release--definitely could be a lot better. But I discovered that nail clipper handles, of all loving things, works amazingly to pop out the batteries. Thankfully that's a once a year task. Just to comment on smart bulbs, using an app to control your lights versus a switch is loving terrible, don't do it. From sensors or timers and stuff, great, but having to unlock your phone, open the app, find the light, and shut it off is a complete pain in the butt versus flicking a switch.
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Dec 24, 2016 20:32
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Figured this might be the place to ask, but are there any canada-goons who have spotted boxing day deals on smart switches etc?
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Dec 24, 2016 20:36
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OSU_Matthew posted:Only design thing I dislike is changing batteries, the retaining clip is a bitch to release--definitely could be a lot better. But I discovered that nail clipper handles, of all loving things, works amazingly to pop out the batteries. Thankfully that's a once a year task. Only design thing I dislike is that it's not wifi!
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Dec 24, 2016 21:37
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Subjunctive posted:Only design thing I dislike is that it's not wifi! The real problem is that it is essentially WiFi. Zigbee operates on the same band of unlicensed spectrum as wifi, specifically 2.4Ghz (802.11bg). Because that band is too chock full of interference from every dipshit thing someone decided to cram wifi into, and because the radios penetrate so far, it's nearly useless. Z-wave is a bit better as it operates on a much less crowded spectrum and smart things should have chosen to place its sensors on that, but I get the feeling that it's a cost saving measure because 2.4ghz radios are cheap as gently caress because they're ubiquitous. Possibly also has to do with better penetration of walls as well, but it's just shortsighted and dumb in my book.
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Dec 24, 2016 21:50
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OSU_Matthew posted:The real problem is that it is essentially WiFi. It does both. The keyfob presence sensor is ZigBee but a bunch of the other sensors are z-wave and it can use standard z-wave things from other manufacturers too, I believe. (I don't have one but have considered it instead of rolling my own with openhab/home assistant, so looked into it)
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Dec 25, 2016 00:31
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legooolas posted:It does both. The keyfob presence sensor is ZigBee but a bunch of the other sensors are z-wave and it can use standard z-wave things from other manufacturers too, I believe. Yeah, all my switches and such are z-wave.
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Dec 25, 2016 02:36
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Sorry, should have been more specific, while the hub is both z wave and zigbee, most of the smart things branded sensors I own are zigbee (eg the multipurpose sensor), that's what annoys me. It just feels like a bad engineering decision on an otherwise awesome product. Then again, I haven't had too many issues myself, and the wave form could be like bluetooth where it doesn't cause/isn't quite so susceptible to interference, so who knows 
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Dec 25, 2016 06:09
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Not sure if this belongs in the home audio thread or here... I am currently running the Onkyo TX-NR626 which I love except for one glaring issue. The powered zone 2 output has no low end whatsoever. I posted on Onkyo forums and they claim the output is "flat". It sounds awful and I feel like it's a waste to feed decent speakers with it. But, it allows me to adjust volume via smart phone app or now via Harmony Hub/Alexa now that I've added that. If I change out to the non-powered zone 2 and an outboard amp, I lose ability to adjust volume. So, what I'm looking for is one of two things: 1. A receiver that has a good sounding powered zone 2 output. 2. A receiver that has a non-powered zone 2 output with variable output so I can use an outboard amp but control volume with the receiver. For reference, here's the setup that I have: Onkyo TX-NR-626 Zone 1 is 5.1 on living room Powered Zone 2 attached to Niles 7 channel speaker selector. Speakers connected to selector: Monoprice in-ceiling on patio Definitive Technologies AW5500 in garage Definitive Technologies AW6500 backyard Want to add a set of in-ceiling in master bathroom next. Ultimately, my number one goal is to have good audio to zone 2. Secondary, I'd like to voice control everything with echo dots in all zone locations. Replacing Niles speaker selector with a model that has IR control will give me this ability since I have the Harmony Hub. Volume control via voice is my goal in each zone which is why the powered zone 2 simplifies that. If there's a better way of doing this, I'm all ears as well. Right now, things work great from a control standpoint despite having to manually select zone on speaker selector. Audio is just compromised due to the Onkyo's anemic zone 2 output.
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Dec 27, 2016 04:41
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Anyone here use Hue light strips for music and movie watching enhancement? It looks like you need 3rd party apps, which is pretty hokey for Philips to advertise as a feature but not personally support. Can anyone recommend an app that actually works decent doing this?
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Dec 27, 2016 14:37
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SpaceCadetBob posted:Anyone here use Hue light strips for music and movie watching enhancement? It looks like you need 3rd party apps, which is pretty hokey for Philips to advertise as a feature but not personally support. Can anyone recommend an app that actually works decent doing this? Most "movie enhancement" apps require the phone/tablet camera pointed at the screen at all times to shift the lights. Others (like the Syfy app) use audio tones for syncing shifting but they only work for specific shows (because they've programmed in the cues). I've used it for 12 Monkeys on Syfy and it works pretty well except if you're watching on DVR because they plan for commercials and if there's no break it can take a few minutes to get the audio to get picked up and sync again. As for music enhancement, I've used Hue Pro in the past for music enhancement (I already use it as my main Hue app). It's ok, but I'd like more sweeping color changes rather than the epileptic rave that it can become.
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Dec 27, 2016 16:00
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As someone who has done smart lighting for multi-million dollar properties, the "proper" way to do it is smart switches. Far better than smart bulbs, but higher initial cost and more install heavy. My apartment is set up that way. I can plug in any bulb (using all LEDs now) and it still works like a normal light, or I can control from any phone/tablet/whatever. For lamps, we would use a smart dimmer that accepts a standard wall plug. Then rewire the lamp so the switch on the lamp hits a contact closure input on the dimmer. Using the switch on the lamp would work seamlessly with the phone/tablet/whatever. I did this all with Crestron hardware in my line of work. Set up many hotels, condos, mansions, etc. The extra feature smart bulbs have vs this solution is ease of adding colors or just color temp. When we had to do that it would be a custom DMX solution.
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Dec 27, 2016 21:12
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Sounds totally applicable for Joe Average if they don't have a neutral wire. The extra feature is ease of use for those setups without neutral wires.
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Dec 28, 2016 01:40
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What vendors should I look at for colored bulbs that will work with smart switches?
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Dec 28, 2016 02:51
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Hed posted:What vendors should I look at for colored bulbs that will work with smart switches? Here is the catch, Smart Bulbs need power all the time, but if they are connected to a smart switch they will have the power taken away when the smart switch is off, so the only way to control them in to turn the switch on, then change the color, doing this with automation sometimes results in the light missing the command since it isn't on yet. Now I don't recommend this but.... You could tie the line and load together so the bulb is always powered, then use your smart home hub to turn off and on the bulb when the switch is turned off and on. That way you can still color the light. BUT that isn't up to code and changing the light mean you have to trip the breaker to kill the power.
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Dec 28, 2016 03:30
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