|
Motronic posted:You can get a not-a-pile-of-poo poo used car for $3,000. OK. This is exactly as straightforward as I always hope these kinds of answers will be.. Thanks!
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2016 19:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 12:45 |
|
|
FCKGW posted:Recommendations for tires? I bought some Kumho Tires 3 years ago and one of them is nearly bald already so I'd like to replace the whole lot. 2008 Ford Focus SE, I was looking at the continentals on tirerack unless there's something or somewhere better. I've had a set of these on my 2002 Focus since May, you really can't beat them for the price. Quiet, decent grip for all seasons and handles wet/snow about as well as you could ask an all season tire to.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2016 19:03
|
|
|
Motronic posted:It's actually pretty easy to rekey most door locks. You could probably do it yourself. Yeah? I'll have to look into this. I'll probably grab a junkyard door handle if I can rekey it.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2016 20:54
|
|
|
CharlieWhiskey posted:Geographically Because you're supposed to take the snow mobile out in winter. Not the car.
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2016 21:30
|
|
|
Maybe for Minnesota or Michigan. The rest of us is because of the volume of people driving on studs would tear apart roads even faster than the daily freeze/thaw cycles already do, and we have +10 million people living in the greater Chicago area alone. That's ignoring all of those living in the tri-state area or traveling on the dozen or so interstates that get funneled through it Paramedics are cheaper than roads, so more people become injured or die to save the states some easy money on infrastructure 
|
|
#
?
Dec 21, 2016 22:13
|
|
|
sausage king of Chicago posted:I have a 2013 Scion TC, which I barely drive. I think it has like 27k miles on it and I bought it brand new. Over a month ago it was parked on my street and someone smashed into the driver side quarter panel, right on my rear tire. There was a decent amount of damage and it cost like 4k to fix and it was in the shop for about a month. I had it towed to one of those shops that deals directly with my insurance company (I have GIECO if that matters). I have the estimate somewhere, but I remember that they had to do some work on the rear suspension. Give the body shop a chance to make it right, but make drat sure they get it towed from where it's at now, and pay for whatever you paid for the tow (you kept the receipt or put it on a card where you can pull it up online, right?) plus whatever you've paid the current shop. If they push back, call Geico immediately and tell them the situation and let them know you tried to get the body shop to honor their warranty. e: just realized your car isn't in the same state as the original body shop. Call Geico's claims # or your claims adjuster and tell them what's going on. You should be able to get reimbursed for the tow and probably for the mechanic's time, but it would be best if they send someone out to look at it before you approve any work. Tricky Ed posted:Drain/refill only for sure at 30/90k. Pretty sure the filter was on the to-do list at 60k, but I can't find that service doc and given the rest of that dealership's work I wouldn't be surprised if they lied anyway. Guessing this means I should check with my mechanic about having that done? If you're comfortable doing an oil change, you can do this yourself. It's a lot messier, and the filter is up inside the transmission (usually held on with a handful of bolts). But if you're not, expect a bit more labor than you'd normally get for a drain/fill. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Dec 22, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 00:43
|
|
|
So I left my radio and blower on while parked while I wrote out a card to mail out. I wasn't around for long, maybe 10 minutes. I go to mail it out, come back, battery is dead. poo poo. I call AAA to give me a jump. He says the battery is bad. I buy a new one and my dad helps me swap it out. After we're done he speculates it could be a lack of water in the old battery, which is dry. So we end up putting the old one back with water in it and hoping Oreilly takes back the new one. Presuming the battery has been dry for a while, now that it has water will it be more or less ok? I don't expect it'll last as long as it would if I had known to look for this, but should it return to normal function? I'm going to get it tested tomorrow after work.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 06:08
|
|
|
skooma512 posted:So I left my radio and blower on while parked while I wrote out a card to mail out. I wasn't around for long, maybe 10 minutes. I go to mail it out, come back, battery is dead. poo poo. If a battery has been run dry it's never going to be anywhere near as close to reliable as a new one. Just keep the new one and either get the core charge back on the old one or use it to power your bluetooth speaker when you go camping.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 06:13
|
|
|
skooma512 posted:So I left my radio and blower on while parked while I wrote out a card to mail out. I wasn't around for long, maybe 10 minutes. I go to mail it out, come back, battery is dead. poo poo. If the battery you bought from oreillys has been installed in a vehicle, they're supposed to deny the return. This applies to anything with electricity flowing through it, but batteries are the big one. From your description the battery was towards the end of its life cycle, adding water to it is just going to slightly prolong its life before it leaves you stranded again. I'd say just get your $18 back for the core and not have to worry about it again in a few months when the old battery would crap out for good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 07:04
|
|
|
What CPP said. Many car batteries today are supposed to be maintenance free anyway, despite the removable caps, and just topping it off with plain water will ruin it anyway (if not now, in a month or two). You need distilled water, and ideally a hydrometer (and sulfuric acid to replace any that's boiled/evaporated). That battery really can't be trusted again, even if you did use distilled water, a hydrometer, and replenished the acid. I would suggest taking the vehicle to O'Reilly (or your parts store of choice) and asking them to check out your charging system. That battery shouldn't have been dry; they don't usually go dry unless they're being overcharged. If the alternator checks out fine, then that battery was probably just at its end of life. Sometimes when they get old enough, enough debris flakes off of the plates to cause an internal short, which can boil off some of the liquid (and of course, kills the battery pretty quickly). Also, if the battery is physically bulging on the sides, that's a good sign that it's trash. How old was the battery?
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 08:34
|
|
|
Good advice guys. Yeah we just put drinking water in the old battery. Considering it's a 3 year old OEM battery and I can't (ethically at least) return the new one I might as well just put the new one back in. I'll remember to use only distilled water.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 17:31
|
|
|
skooma512 posted:it's a 3 year old OEM battery Unless you live in an extreme environment (very hot or very cold for large parts of the year) that battery should have lasted at least another year or two. You should definitely get your charging system checked - a bad battery can destroy an otherwise good alternator, and now that you're about to replace the battery a potentially bad alternator could kill the new battery in short order.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 18:49
|
|
|
skooma512 posted:Good advice guys. Chances are, your new battery is not designed to be opened up like that.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 21:51
|
|
|
God I hope so. It has a flap like the OEM one but the top is covered with a sticker. The picture on the oreilly website has a warning to not put water in, but who knows if it's a generic model with the part number swapped.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 21:55
|
|
|
I cannot remember the last time I saw a battery that was actually intended to be topped off by the user. It's just not a thing that needs to be done.
|
|
#
?
Dec 22, 2016 23:35
|
|
|
Stupid car question, kinda car policy related: Should AEB systems be considered BTO for vehicles with semi-autonomous systems? I'm wondering whether, and under what circumstances, automatic electronic brakes (AEB) should over-ride throttle sensor input and act as brake-throttle overrides (BTO) in electronic control systems (ETS/ETCS). If I'm advocating NHTSA to adopt some rule changes to FMVSS, I'd like to know what issues gearheads may see from my proposed rule change. Namely, changes to FMVSS No. 124 & No. 126. I don't want to stop folk from being able to do burnouts; I want asian automotive manufacturers to adopt some goddamn better software development and V2V practices. Like loving hell Toyota, Bookerman showed your code to be recursive as gently caress for safety-critical systems.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 00:32
|
|
|
Nice acronym salad
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 00:35
|
|
|
skooma512 posted:God I hope so. Yeah, outside of a few cheaper motorcycle/powersports batteries, everything we sell is a "maintenence free" battery, meaning you don't add water to it. (If you haven't guessed, I kinda work for oreillys.)
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 00:39
|
|
|
spankmeister posted:Nice acronym salad Welcome to Federal policy development, home of the acronym soup Its a really interesting issue, I find. You've got OEM's begging for a legislation at industry conferences and in public, meanwhile you also got issues like this popping up: https://betterembsw.blogspot.com/2014/09/a-case-study-of-toyota-unintended.html?m=1 https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=NCTf7wT5WR0 A vehicle in 10 years may not function like anything produced today, while there is a transition period anticipated in which autonomous, semi-autonomous, and non-autonomous vehicles will have to share the road. Best to be proactive now to avoid unnecessary instances where your German vehicle detects bridge spacers as vehicle rear taillights and full-engages AEB, or your Corvette's left rear brake tends to engage when driving down the highway with certain conditions. I only trust American software development practices, and want to ensure American vehicles are best positioned to produce the greatest economic benefit for our great nation in the coming decades. Fortunately, there are few barriers for automated vehicles to comply with FMVSS, as long as the vehicle does not significantly diverge from a conventional vehicle design. Unfortunately, light vehicle brake systems (§571.135) have been identified as having potential issues for automated vehicles with conventional designs.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 00:53
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:I cannot remember the last time I saw a battery that was actually intended to be topped off by the user. It's just not a thing that needs to be done. Yeah, batteries have been sealed and not intended to be refilled for like 40 or 50 years. It's not something anyone should be doing at this point.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 01:06
|
|
|
My Imaginary GF posted:Welcome to Federal policy development, home of the acronym soup MISRA solves everything, right? right?????
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 01:34
|
|
|
Anyone ever own or work on the old Focus SVT? I might buy one tomorrow for $2000, but it's throwing P0171. Runs like a champ but the code is there. Any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 05:00
|
|
|
lovely fuel pressure due to bad/failing filter or pump, crappy MODZ like a cold air intake with a way oversized intake tube, bad O2 sensor, vacuum leak, exhaust leak before the O2 sensor and failing fuel injector/s off the top of my head are common causes for a "too lean" code. Check for bad modifications first imo. Then realize that if that basic mod has been done poorly, realize that most other mods have been done poorly.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 05:40
|
|
|
Otis Reddit posted:Anyone ever own or work on the old Focus SVT? I might buy one tomorrow for $2000, but it's throwing P0171. Runs like a champ but the code is there. Any ideas? Never owned/worked on a SVT but I've had a MkI Focus since 2004 and know a bit about them. What year? If not 2004 make sure its had the clutch TSB done. Other things to check off the top of my head - valve cover has a tendency to leak down the side of the head, which then causes the thermostat oring to swell which breaks the thermostat housing. There will be a fairly constant drip of coolant if this is the case. The SVT has a dual-runner intake manifold and where the runner control servo clips to the intake likes to break off (google "SVT focus IMRC fix" for more info) and if I had to guess P0171 could indicate a faulty exhaust VCT solenoid - the SVT Zetec used VCT on the exhaust side only in lieu of EGR and the solenoid failing was relatively common. I'd also check the spare tire well, a leaky hatch seal will result in the well filling with water. Finally a word of warning - SVT specific parts are becoming increasingly scarce, to the point where there are a few salvage yards that specialize in parts for them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 23, 2016 05:41
|
|
|
 ah well, the 2011 Ranger I wanted that was two hours away from home was in perfect condition except for the extreme, irreparable frame/etc rust. Back to stalking used car listings.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 01:07
|
|
|
5 years rusted out? Wtf
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 06:49
|
|
|
I thought you said it was a Ranger, not a Tacoma. That's pretty extreme for something that new,. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 07:25
|
|
|
Ford's cars and light trucks are now covered by a 5 year, unlimited mileage corrosion warranty. It only covers rust not caused by 'environmental fallout,' whatever that means. I'm not sure if that applies to the '11 Ranger. "Your vehicle’s body sheet metal panels are covered for an extended Corrosion Coverage Period, which lasts for five years, regardless of miles driven. The extended warranty coverage only applies if a body sheet metal panel becomes perforated due to corrosion during normal use due to a manufacturing defect in factory-supplied materials or factory workmanship. For damage caused by airborne material (environmental fallout) where there is no factory-related defect involved and therefore no warranty − our policy is to provide free repair of paint damage due to the airborne material for 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first."
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 10:13
|
|
|
"body sheet metal panels" sounds a whole lot like it only applies to the body itself. Doesn't mention a thing about the frame. Also, depending when it was originally sold, the date it was put in service could easily be in 2010. My 2006 car was built in June of 2005 (  ), and legally sold to the original owner in October of 2005.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 12:10
|
|
|
Generally is there a time limit on how long you have to get something that's been a part of a recall fixed? I got a notice back in mid 2015 about the ABS system on my 2007 mitsubishi eclipse, and it told me to watch for another letter that will let owners know that parts are available at authorized Mitsubishi dealerships to make the necessary repairs if needed. I got the second letter sometime earlier this year (I want to say spring). I didn't act on it at the time because the two closest authorized dealerships were both over an hour away. A Mitsubishi dealership is now opening up here soon and if there is no time limit on how long you have to get the repairs done, I'm going to take my car in to get the necessary inspection and/or repairs.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 13:15
|
|
|
You're fine, but I'm shocked someone is opening a new Mitsubishi dealership in TYOOL 2016.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 15:20
|
|
|
Yeah, if a vehicle is recalled, there generally isn't an end date. I'm sure at some point it becomes untenable but I've never heard of anyone getting denied on it due to age. If it's not actually a recall, though, there might be a time limit.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 16:24
|
|
|
Honda told me to piss off about the ignition barrel recall, but tbh it was on a 98 CR-V 
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 17:59
|
|
|
DrakeriderCa posted:Yeah? I'll have to look into this. I'll probably grab a junkyard door handle if I can rekey it. My Imaginary GF posted:Stupid car question, kinda car policy related: Should AEB systems be considered BTO for vehicles with semi-autonomous systems? I'm wondering whether, and under what circumstances, automatic electronic brakes (AEB) should over-ride throttle sensor input and act as brake-throttle overrides (BTO) in electronic control systems (ETS/ETCS). I need to think about this and put together a serious response at work on tuesday.
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 22:32
|
|
|
kastein posted:Bring your key to the yard and see if you get lucky, it might fit one donor. Find out if you can get a cylinder from another kind of vehicle and put it in an avalanche compatible door handle, too. Make sure you get the pushrod from the cylinder to the latch too. You've got 29 more days before he can respond anyway 
|
|
#
?
Dec 24, 2016 22:38
|
|
|
Anyone know what kind of car this is? Neighbor caught them breaking into some community mailboxes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deq8_t1O9-0
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2016 03:01
|
|
|
Looks like a late model Nissan Sentra to me, but kinda hard to tell.
|
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2016 06:46
|
|
|
Anyone know how Mercedez-Benz dealership service actually works? I am trying to figure out what service my dad's 2015 E-350 needs. The manual lists what needs to be done at what miles, and being relatively new he wants it done at the dealer. Every service dealer lists 'A' and 'B' service as what they offer; which from the list of services included just sound like $200 and $600 oil changes and don't line up with the specific services listed in the service manual unless I am missing something. Google is not being helpful at all since people are talking about 'A' and 'B' service intervals but apparently Mercedez-Benz stopped referring to those specifically in their service manuals after 2014? edit: For some reason I put all the dates off by 10 years, fixed. Chuu fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Dec 26, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 25, 2016 21:16
|
|
|
The A service is typically just your standard oil change/tire rotation. B is same but with air filter, cabin air filter and brake fluid. I doubt the 05 models had the 10k schedule current models do, so you're probably just best off to request the specific items in the manual. Tell your dad to go anywhere else because $200 for basically an oil change is insane. Also, Mercedes
|
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2016 01:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 23, 2024 12:45 |
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:The A service is typically just your standard oil change/tire rotation. B is same but with air filter, cabin air filter and brake fluid. I doubt the 05 models had the 10k schedule current models do, so you're probably just best off to request the specific items in the manual. '05 was a typo, it's a '15. I'll see what I can do. I'm just surprised a luxury car brand makes it so hard to get the service you actually need. There's a thread out there on bimmerforums where people compare the cost of the 'A' and 'B' service in their region. It's shocking how all over the map it is. The low is around $130 for an 'A' service and the high is around $300. For a 'B' service the range is $300-$800. From the few data points I have from internet threads and what I know about the prices in my local area, there has to be some level of collusion to keep 'A' and 'B' service prices the same in a region. I feel like this is a lawsuit waiting to happen. Chuu fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Dec 26, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 26, 2016 01:58
|
|