|
Neurolimal posted:That's usually so the bases can blend in with more tables, but you are right that it's pretty dull. I'll just make my own table that matches my bases. There is no limit to my biting off more than I can chew.
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 04:37
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 19:39 |
|
|
Yo if anyone's seen any Jojo-inspired death korps of Krieg, post it! I want to see purple capes and helmets and green everything. Going to make my own once I get back to my hobby table. Dr. Gargunza posted:This is all excellent advice, and a very helpful post. 
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 04:41
|
|
|
The other thing with the bases is that you want them to stand out from the models; or rather, you want the models to stand out from the bases. For the necrons, maybe go with something blue or red on the bases?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 05:02
|
|
|
JackMann posted:The other thing with the bases is that you want them to stand out from the models; or rather, you want the models to stand out from the bases. For the necrons, maybe go with something blue or red on the bases? Here's a more top-down photo I took during whiter lighting during the daytime.  I'll also be going back and adding crystals to the open areas here and there. I don't think my colors need to be contrasting for my model to stand out from my base, it's already metallic standing on dark/green.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 05:21
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:Here's a more top-down photo I took during whiter lighting during the daytime. Yeah, that's a much better picture. The changes in lighting and perspective show off the contrast a lot more cleanly. Nice work! Thanks for the compliments, guys! I painted up Kranon the Ridiculous as part of the oath thread a couple years back, mostly to show off the cape, which I did with the airbrush that I decided to buy immediately after watching this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Y6TlMIYXWw ...And now you understand my artistic process. See thing demonstrated ==> "welp better do that thing I guess" e: goddamn stupid phoneposting not playing nice with video rassum frassum
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 06:55
|
|
|
Dr. Gargunza posted:Yeah, that's a much better picture. The changes in lighting and perspective show off the contrast a lot more cleanly. Nice work! I got too excited having finished the last set of detailing on the 5th one. I'll wait until daytime next time, or get some better lights.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 07:16
|
|
|
Any UK goons have any recommendations for painting stations? Just got a new desk and want to keep it looking decent
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:09
|
|
|
The citadel paint station and project box are both actually pretty good.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:11
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:The citadel paint station and project box are both actually pretty good. I don't think the station is sold anymore. The hobbyzone one looks nice if you can find it cheap.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:17
|
|
|
What's the cool good way to prime nowadays? I have a can of... Armory? The one with Munchkin-like characters on it. It might have been comprised by the cold garage though. I also have some squeeze bottles of Vallejo Hm airbrush primer. I'm not sure I feel like getting the airbrush out but I could just paint it on there right? Just one thin layer maybe?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:17
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:The citadel paint station and project box are both actually pretty good. Fun fact: the spaces for Citadel paint pots on the paint tray are big enough to fit a miniature on a 32mm base.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:27
|
|
|
Looks like the citadel one isn't available anymore except the project box which is hellish expensive. Looks like the hobby zone one it is. Similarly any recommendation for cutting matts?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 17:30
|
|
|
Lovely Joe Stalin posted:The citadel paint station and project box are both actually pretty good. Warlord Games sells basically the same thing: https://us-store.warlordgames.com/collections/paint-racks AssumingHobby Zone is NZ currency the prices are competitive if you want the large station & rack from Warlord.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 18:53
|
|
|
So I got an Obelisk/Tesseract Vault for christmas that I'm slowly working on, and I've been thinking about the base. I want some terrain that looks like it's actually being warped by being near the thing. I've been having trouble googling any examples of this type of thing and was wondering if anyone had any jumping off points for me for examples of similar stuff?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 19:57
|
|
|
gilljoy posted:Any UK goons have any recommendations for painting stations? Just got a new desk and want to keep it looking decent The Hobbyzone stations are good, assuming you don't mind having to wait 24 hours to use it (while the glue dries.) I got a cutting mat from Amazon - any one with good reviews will be fine, though I prefer the green mats, as they make it easier to find dropped pieces.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 20:31
|
|
|
Any recommendations for cell-shaded style painting? I've browsed around and found a few examples and walk-throughs, including a pretty great example of pink cell-shaded 'Nids, but I'd like to cast the net here. I'm looking into painting up Hasslefree's Mystery, Inc look-alikes as a present for my brother, and I feel like really bright tones and sharp outlines would match things really well. He's a ridiculous Scooby Do fan, so I figure that this will be a good birthday gift for him. I'm also hoping someone knows a manufacturer that does a decent Vincent Price miniature, as I've got some fond memories of watching the Thirteen Ghosts of Scooby Do with him, and after finding that 7TV has a free ruleset for staging ridiculous rubber-mask mysteries, I decided that this probably needed to be done. Any recommendations for goofy-looking monsters that can clearly be Old Man Jenkins looking to keep these meddling kids away from the haunted grain silo secretly housing a counterfeit Pepsi operation would also be greatly appreciated. On that note, is there a thread for finding random weird miniatures for "X, But Not Officially" or other weird genre-appropriate stuff? I feel like that's a thing that should exist.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 21:02
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:What's the cool good way to prime nowadays? I have a can of... Armory? The one with Munchkin-like characters on it. It might have been comprised by the cold garage though. I also have some squeeze bottles of Vallejo Hm airbrush primer. I'm not sure I feel like getting the airbrush out but I could just paint it on there right? Just one thin layer maybe? Assuming you're not in Antarctica or the desert: Rustoleum or Krulon primer. They're dirt cheap, go on incredibly well without obscuring detail, are very tough once cured, and set in minutes. They're a cold lacquer, so they wont damage the plastic but once cured will resist every type of paint solvent. Some general tips: Metallic/Pearl/high gloss parts: Black Gloss Bright colors: Flat/Gloss White Mixed/general colors: Flat Grey Try to avoid the primer + paint ones; they'll still go on evenly, but some use hot lacquer (i.e it will try to dissolve into the plastic and make everything look soft at best case) and/or go on a little thicker than the primers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 21:18
|
|
|
Hedningen posted:Any recommendations for cell-shaded style painting? I've browsed around and found a few examples and walk-throughs, including a pretty great example of pink cell-shaded 'Nids, but I'd like to cast the net here. Prime white, don't be afraid to get bold colors, line with a pure black, don't blend or drybrush at all, layering entirely (you can blend in cel, but thats best left as the last thing to consider in the model) Here's a well-documented cel-shaded Gundam; the large reference should help you figure out how to approach cel shading in real life. Caveat; as a highly modular posable kit he was able to create multiple parts for different lighting angles, you'll have to pick one angle to shade and line from (I'd suggest top-forward if it will be a desk thing, or directly forward if it's going on a shelf).
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 21:27
|
|
|
Neurolimal posted:Assuming you're not in Antarctica or the desert: Rustoleum or Krulon primer. They're dirt cheap, go on incredibly well without obscuring detail, are very tough once cured, and set in minutes. They're a cold lacquer, so they wont damage the plastic but once cured will resist every type of paint solvent. Doesn't gloss make any paint you put on slide off? Or is primer mixed to not do that?
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 21:37
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:Doesn't gloss make any paint you put on slide off? Or is primer mixed to not do that? It might for some, but in my experience the Krylon & Rustoleum gloss primers are still "tacky" even after curing. I did all three of the Reaper how-to-paint models in gloss black (mainly because I was priming some other parts to be chromed at the time) and had no issues applying Reaper or Liquitex paint.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 21:41
|
|
|
gilljoy posted:Similarly any recommendation for cutting matts? I use the Privateer Press one. It's small enough to not take up a large space but big enough for most miniature related stuff. Bonus is that it has markings for arcs and whatnot for 30/40/50mm bases.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 22:41
|
|
|
For real though what do people use cutting mats for? I do all my blade stuff in the air
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 23:16
|
|
|
signalnoise posted:For real though what do people use cutting mats for? I do all my blade stuff in the air For cutting? I'll put something down on the mat and cut downward on it. It's especially useful when you're cutting something off a sprue or you want to brace what you're cutting so you don't stab yourself in the hand or whatever. I also paint on it and leave my models on it, as the cutting mat makes for a nice designated hobby space.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 23:24
|
|
|
I once buried one of those large exacto knives in my thigh while cutting a sprue. It was basically the same move Gene Wilder makes in Young Frankenstein. Except IRL. It's a pretty sweet scar though.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 23:39
|
|
|
gilljoy posted:Looks like the citadel one isn't available anymore except the project box which is hellish expensive. Any. A fabric store, Walmart, Guiry's, art supply store, or arts and crafts store will have a self-healing cutting mat to buy in a variety of sizes.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 23:39
|
|
|
SRM posted:For cutting? I'll put something down on the mat and cut downward on it. It's especially useful when you're cutting something off a sprue or you want to brace what you're cutting so you don't stab yourself in the hand or whatever. I also paint on it and leave my models on it, as the cutting mat makes for a nice designated hobby space. Also it keeps the paint/glue off the desk itself when you get it all over the place like an idiot. I cut on my mat often when I'm chopping up stuff for magnetizing it or customizing the pose or cutting something off a sprue. Although I just broke down and bought one of those sprue cutters and I don't think I'll be xactoing stuff off the sprue very often anymore. It's pretty nice.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 00:17
|
|
|
General Olloth posted:Although I just broke down and bought one of those sprue cutters and I don't think I'll be xactoing stuff off the sprue very often anymore. It's pretty nice. Yeah I have a really nice Xuron flush cutter I got for under 15 bucks it's great
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 00:25
|
|
|
Hedningen posted:Any recommendations for cell-shaded style painting? I've browsed around and found a few examples and walk-throughs, including a pretty great example of pink cell-shaded 'Nids, but I'd like to cast the net here. I've had a couple of goes at this with mixed success.   I found that picking a single highlight and shade for each area and getting good solid colours were key to the look. Get a decent set of micron pens and use them for outlining, it's much easier than trying to paint on all the outlines. Also kudos for being one of the few people who remember Vincent van Ghoul, though sadly I've no leads for minis of him or Flim Flam.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 01:03
|
|
|
Does anyone have any tips regarding masking tape? I spent like 5 hours today trying to do Harlequin diamonds on jet bikes and the masking tape not only allowed paint to bleed but also pulled up paint. Is there a particular brand that is really good? I let the models dry in the warm sun for like 4 hours before putting the tape on, should I have waited longer?
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 06:29
|
|
|
Another squad of Cataphractii Terminators - these guys were fun to paint!       An apothecary with a crooked chainsword to keep some of these goons alive:    
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 06:31
|
|
|
One of them appears to be drunk. 😮
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 07:28
|
|
|
mango sentinel posted:One of them appears to be drunk. 😮 i'lL sHOw You a Pwaower FisT!
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 07:41
|
|
|
SRM posted:i'lL sHOw You a Pwaower FisT! Since you're into classic stuff (I think you're the guy for this) is there any good place for third party Saturnine termies? On one hand I really like the design and want to make a chaos one with a nass of tentacles for the head hole, on the other hand their OG models are hideous and probably really expensive Thanks in advance m8
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 07:52
|
|
|
Neurolimal posted:Since you're into classic stuff (I think you're the guy for this) is there any good place for third party Saturnine termies? On one hand I really like the design and want to make a chaos one with a nass of tentacles for the head hole, on the other hand their OG models are hideous and probably really expensive Unfortunately not that I know of. A friend of mine got a forumware one from a dude who just cast up his own sculpts of them in his garage, and that's pretty cool, but the dude only did one run of them.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 08:28
|
|
|
JesusIsTehCool posted:Does anyone have any tips regarding masking tape? I spent like 5 hours today trying to do Harlequin diamonds on jet bikes and the masking tape not only allowed paint to bleed but also pulled up paint. Is there a particular brand that is really good? I let the models dry in the warm sun for like 4 hours before putting the tape on, should I have waited longer? Some things Ive tryed include, varnishing the paint layer to be taped over and a coat of varnish over my masking tape before painting. This has proved successful in stopping paint bleeding under my masking. As far as stopping paint coming up with my tape, I wait an excessive time between layers and cross my fingers.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 09:36
|
|
|
One thing I've heard of people doing is to paint the model, put the tape down, and then paint the same color again. Wait for it to dry, and it will seal the tape. Now spray your over-color.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 09:57
|
|
|
Array of unrelated questions: 1) Anyone familiar with Scale75? How is the quality? I'm so not good at the prep phase of minis and have no patience for pieces that line up poorly, mold lines etc... Trying to get better, but at $50+ for one model, I hope it's good. 2) Any suggestions for a model holder? I was looking at this guy. I really like that it has a magnifying glass and LED. But then I've seen other ones such as this , which is triple the price but I like how flexible it looks. Thoughts? Debating if I should get the more expensive one and just buy a standalone magnifying glass / light. 3. I bought actual paint thinner for the first time last night after practicing using water for a bit. I followed the Reaper Minis post linked in the OP which lists ratios for water:paint. Is actual thinner the same? 4. Similarly, I bought Metal Medium too. Should I be thinning my metal paints with this? Or is it only for adding a metallic effect to non-metallic paints? What ratios should you use for this? Also have some poopy photos.    Never painted denim before. Don't much care for how it came out, but in the photos it's not so bad. Need to touch up his revolver too, I gave it a quick wash but it is still very flat. Also wish I had the foresight to greenstuff his top into a suit and file down his gun to be a pistol and just paint him like Samuel L Jackson in Pulp Fiction. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Dec 30, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 14:28
|
|
|
Last night I painted my first miniature with actual eyes. It did not go well. edit: oh and the teeth, too.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 16:30
|
|
|
Speckled Jim posted:Some things Ive tryed include, varnishing the paint layer to be taped over and a coat of varnish over my masking tape before painting. This has proved successful in stopping paint bleeding under my masking. As far as stopping paint coming up with my tape, I wait an excessive time between layers and cross my fingers. Also use a nice painters tape like 3m or scotch. If it's pulling up paint, try putting the tape on your jeans or whatevs so that it's not as tacky. If it's still pulling paint, I'd say the paint that the tape is being laid on is not completely dry.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 18:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 17, 2024 19:39 |
|
|
signalnoise posted:For real though what do people use cutting mats for? I do all my blade stuff in the air I'm imagining you cutting models like fruit ninja
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 18:39
|
|