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wormil posted:Fine Woodworking's free plan of the day is a bent lamination garden chair that looks pretty bitchin'. That is a lot of bent lamination though. No kidding. Looks cool, though. Don't forget to download part 2--it's linked on the page for part 1 and is free as well.
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Dec 30, 2016 23:00
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ColdPie posted:It brings up a good question, though: is there a good guide to woodworking with food safety in mind? Wood types, finish types, water, heat, and stain resistance, holding up to repeated cleaning, etc. This response is a bit of a throw-back, but I meant to reply here and never got around to it (holidays) but I think it's important. I've got no professional expertise and only a little bit of first-hand knowledge, but I did a lot of digging into this topic doing research for "baby-safe" wood finishes (which I determined was just a subset of "food-safe" because everything was going to go into the mouth at some point). There's very little in the way of hard-and-fast advice and no good guide I have seen. On top of that there's a fair bit of debate over some "conventional wisdom" (which is a theme I am coming to notice in Woodworking). Here's my hot-take based on what I have learned: Food-Grade/"Edible" Finishes Some finishes are safe to eat themselves (not that you'd necessarily want to). Food-grade mineral oil, orange/lemon/almond/walnut oil, beeswax, PURE tung oil (not Tung Oil Finish!) are all inherently safe to be in contact with food. Food-Safe after Cure Some finishes are not necessarily safe when applied, but the usafe part is the solvant, and they are rendered safe once it's cured. One example I used recently: drops of food coloring (inherently food-safe) thinned with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol to dye some toy blocks, then coated with shellac (food-safe once hardened) also thinned with isoproplyl alcohol to seal it in so my kid's mouth doesn't turn green when he chews on them. Aside from DIY stuff, there are some marketed conconctions which have gone through the approval process to be labeled "Food Safe". One example is General Finishes "Salad Bowl Finish" which is a varnish/urethane mix. Rumor on the forums is that it's the exact same formulation as their Arm-R-Seal, just produced through a more controlled QA process. See below. Any Cured Finish The "conventional wisdom" is that any finish is "food safe" once it's fully cured, because these days nothing uses the lead-based drying agents that were a big problem in the past.This is where I've seen a lot of pushback and bold assertions from both sides. I suspect it's probably true to the extent that light contact is safe, I wouldn't necessarily use it for actual food items. Suitability None of this gets into the actual physical suitability of a specific finish for a job. General advice is that you don't want to use a film finish for cutting boards, as it will just create unsanitary conditions where it gets cut. Aside from that you've got to think about temperature and moisture exposure as well.
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Dec 30, 2016 23:16
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I am way out of hand tool practice. I just chopped two of the worst half lap joints I ave ever seen.
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Dec 31, 2016 07:15
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Hubis posted:This response is a bit of a throw-back, but I meant to reply here and never got around to it (holidays) but I think it's important. Very good post. To add some anecdotal and other tips to it: Ash wood is considered to be very heat resistant and good for even smoking pipes, though many (probably most more like it) woods can be used cooking. My personal favorite finish that is safe and good tasting (if you get stranded in the woods with only your carving setup, do some shots) is food grade walnut oil. Just any walnut oil from a grocery store, 7 bucks for a bottle that you can rub in by hand. Avoid one with added condensed or artificial walnut scent if you're hoping to still keep the original smell of the wood, but honestly that's usually a lost cause within months anyway. Be careful with BLO (boiled linseed oil) from the store, it has more than linseed oil in it and can make rags spontaneously set on fire. If a wood is considered to have toxins in it, technically the longer you dry it before oiling the more of these that typically will leave along with the moisture. Also factor in most mild/slightly toxic claims are not a problem unless you are a baby or a dog, actually eating the utensil itself and not the food on it. General statement: Cedar fine, Laburnum less fine.
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Dec 31, 2016 09:47
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RE: Trying to sharpen/bring back to life these planes I brought home: The Stanley block plane was a breeze to hone. The rust came off nicely and after filing the honing guide up, the knife fit nicely. I later tested it on a hunk of pine 2x4 that I had lying around and it made decently thin shavings. The Craftsman plane, however, was quite a bit more of a chore. The sole itself was not flat, and on top of that it has some pitting. I polished it up as much as I could on my sand paper to what was probably more than good enough for a complete beginner. The knife was another issue. the bevel was something other than the 25-30 degrees that seems to be typical. In addition there was quite a bit of pitting on the knife, so after spending over an hour on some 60-80 and "coarse" emery paper" just to get the 25 degree bevel set, the edge was still a bit jagged and uneven. I then took it through the course of what emery papers I have that go up to a pretty fine grit. I also shifted the knife in the guide slightly to try and add a micro-bevel like I read about, but I have no idea if I'm doing that portion right or how to test it. It definitely wasn't sharp enough to shave my arm. When I tested it again on the block of pine I had, the shavings were terrible and did not come off very easily. I can partly attribute this to me definitely not having the plane set up right; I wasn't sure h ow deep of a cut to set the plane to or how to position the chip braker. However, the chip breaker has some rusting and pitting, and along with the blade I'm not sure if it's even worth bothering with it. Can anyone help me identify what "type" of plane this is and where I could locate an affordable replacement knife, and chip breaker if necessary? The sole of the plane is ~9.5" and I think the knife was somewhere on the order of 1.75" wide. 
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Dec 31, 2016 09:49
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MetaJew posted:When I tested it again on the block of pine I had, the shavings were terrible and did not come off very easily. Keep in mind you will get bad results from most planes if you are going against the grain of the wood.
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Dec 31, 2016 10:19
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NPR Journalizard posted:Keep in mind you will get bad results from most planes if you are going against the grain of the wood. Ah, I forgot to mention that this was running the plane with the grain, on the ~2" side, with it in a vice. So, as if I were jointing it.
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Dec 31, 2016 10:39
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It looks about the same size as a Stanley No 4. Lee Valley sells replacement Stanley irons, but that doesn't mean they'll fit your Craftman. They provide measurements to compare against; don't forget thickness. Also, the frog and adjustment mechanism may just be straight up incompatible. The chip breaker should be no more than a 32nd away from the edge. Also be sure you're not cutting too deep by adjusting the depth while you're in a low spot on the wood. I made that mistake a lot when I was starting out. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Dec 31, 2016 |
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Dec 31, 2016 12:36
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Some jigs for sharpening turning chisels on my sorby-clone:   And the kids roubo is in place: 
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Dec 31, 2016 15:52
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That's a much better setup than the 3x18 belt sander clamped in a workmate that I use.
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Dec 31, 2016 15:56
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That tiny roubo turned out really nice. The ultimate cutting board badass russian on Youtube just posted this video about using cutting board scraps. He glues endgrain together, then re-rips and flips it to make it edge grain and strong. Super cool technique and a completely batshit looking table top. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuMNy1qJf8c
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Dec 31, 2016 16:44
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MetaJew posted:Can anyone help me identify what "type" of plane this is and where I could locate an affordable replacement knife, and chip breaker if necessary? The sole of the plane is ~9.5" and I think the knife was somewhere on the order of 1.75" wide. That's almost certainly a #4. There should be some identifying marks in the casting of the base, where it's painted black. Either around the front knob or the rear handle. Post pics of the blade (top and bottom) and the chip breaker for better advice on their usability. Pitting on the sole doesn't matter that much for most uses. Pitting on the chip breaker doesn't matter too much either. If it's on the edge that contacts the blade you may get some shavings jamming up in there but it would need to be pretty severe pitting. It's more important that it makes solid contact with the blade across the width. The part you're calling the knife is called the blade. In order to get a sharp edge and a good cut in use there shouldn't be any nicks and pitting at the blade edge, either on the bevel or on the back side. You didn't mention anything about flattening the back of the blade either. That helps too but don't go overboard with it, you only need to worry about the area near the cutting edge. There are a lot of little things that go into setting up the plane to work correctly. I follow this process from Paul Sellers every time I remove the blade for sharpening. Back off the depth adjuster all the way. Reinstall the cap iron with a very small distance to the blade cutting edge and tighten down the screw. Place the blade back in the plane. Wiggle the lateral adjuster back and forth to make sure the blade is fully seated. Put the lever cap on top of the chip breaker. Lock down the lever on the lever cap. It should have a solid click or "thunk" but not be really hard to open and close. Turn the plane over and look in the throat at the alignment of the blade and make any large adjustment with the lateral adjuster. Advance the depth adjuster wheel until the blade gets close to protruding from the sole. Sight down the sole and make a finer adjustment with the lateral adjuster. Look to make the dark line between the throat edge and blade edge even from side to side. Start planing your piece of scrap. It shouldn't take a cutting at all at first. Keep advancing the depth adjuster until you get a somewhat thick shaving. Now use the far sides of the blade to take shavings and compare the thickness, by sight, sound and feel. Adjust the lateral adjuster until they are even from both sides. Reduce the depth adjuster to get a thinner shaving. Repeat the process to check the thickness of the shaving on either side of the blade and adjust the lateral adjuster until even. Keep going until the shavings are so thin they stop being full width shavings. You can see it from here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gE4yVgdVW7s&t=569s If you aren't getting any shavings unless the blade is protruding a lot from the sole and they are thick and difficult then you might have too steep of an angle on the bevel. I found this happened when I first started freehand sharpening and the camber on the bevel was actually contacting the wood before the cutting edge did. I also can't recommend enough Paul's tip of soaking a rag in a can with 3-in-1 oil and using it to lubricate the plane sole. After you do that the plane practically floats across the wood. Just try it with a drop or two of oil rubbed on with a rag and you'll see.
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Dec 31, 2016 17:39
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Sellers also recently covered a question in one of his recent Q and A's about the blade not biting if starting in the middle of a board. I've certainly experienced that issue. Apparently it's most often caused by stropping at too steep an angle and slightly rounding over the edge. It's really easy to do accidentally because the leather is soft and naturally wraps around the edge a bit and make a tiny steep micro bevel at the edge of the blade that prevents it from biting into the wood unless you start from the edge of the board so the blade starts at the depth of cut you have set. I still need to get back to my hand plane that has that issue and fix it.
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Dec 31, 2016 19:16
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100 grit seems too coarse for sharpening but I like the idea of using a belt sander instead of a grinder.
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Dec 31, 2016 19:30
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A sander works good it doesn't seem to heat up the tools as fast as a grinder. I use 120 grit personally. Eventually I want to get another old shopsmith and set it up as a sanding/sharpening station since I could dial in the speed perfectly.
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Dec 31, 2016 20:13
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An oak tree near my parents' house got taken down, and they got some firewood out of it. I helped to split it, and now I'm wondering, how feasible is it to try to rescue some of the wood for woodworking? Specifically, it seems like a piece like this would have some interesting grain: Is it at all worth trying to turn this into some boards? If so, how would I start? I suspect my 14" bandsaw is too small to try to mill it... It's still green wood.
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Dec 31, 2016 21:16
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That'd make a good bowl.
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Dec 31, 2016 22:38
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You could draw reference lines and chainsaw as carefully as you can. Then plane down a bit and stack to dry. Then plane again once dry and you plan to use it.
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Dec 31, 2016 22:47
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Atticus_1354 posted:You could draw reference lines and chainsaw as carefully as you can. Then plane down a bit and stack to dry. Then plane again once dry and you plan to use it. Any advice for how to get good (i.e. straight) reference lines on such a piece of wood? This does seem like the most plausible approach. coathat posted:That'd make a good bowl. Alas, I don't have a lathe.
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Dec 31, 2016 23:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any advice for how to get good (i.e. straight) reference lines on such a piece of wood? Use a laser level to shoot a line on it as a guide
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Dec 31, 2016 23:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any advice for how to get good (i.e. straight) reference lines on such a piece of wood? Creative chalklinery. Two stakes approx where you want to mark on either side of the log that is not a burl, and work your way up and down them. Rinse, repeat.
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Dec 31, 2016 23:27
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Mods rename TooMuchAbstraction to Crotchwood Finesser
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Dec 31, 2016 23:29
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any advice for how to get good (i.e. straight) reference lines on such a piece of wood? Cut a line in a board and spray paint through it.
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Dec 31, 2016 23:31
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This guy popped up on my suggested videos this week. He hardly has any subscribers so I figure it probably hasn't been seen. He's got some pretty interesting ideas. It never occurred to me to twist a laminated handle like he does here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rj1cNPoW1Wc And I thought this was kind of a neat idea, though a bit fiddly to cut all the shavings into the shape of flower pedals: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlWr9_K-YUU
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Dec 31, 2016 23:40
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Ended up using a laser level to project a line and then marking the line with chalk. And then completely hosing up actually following the line with the chainsaw, but whatever. Got one decent-ish "board" out of it: There's enough material left to cut out a similarly-sized piece from the log, but I don't have a good method to hold it still while cutting. I think I see some interesting-looking grain:  I've painted the ends to help protect against splitting. This will be an interesting project to work on. I have no idea what to do with it besides a fancy shelf or serving board or something.
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Jan 1, 2017 01:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Ended up using a laser level to project a line and then marking the line with chalk. And then completely hosing up actually following the line with the chainsaw, but whatever. Got one decent-ish "board" out of it: Live-edge end table
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Jan 1, 2017 01:39
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Hubis posted:Live-edge end table The average diameter is a hair over 12". So...maybe?
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Jan 1, 2017 01:53
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jesus christ why didn't any of you people tell me how lucky I was to pull that black and white ebony board out the scrap pile for $6 Went back to Woodcraft an they had a piece on the shelf about half the size selling for $100 I made a god damned wand stand out of it
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Jan 1, 2017 08:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I think I see some interesting-looking grain: Looks nice. Definitely worth a little bit of effort.
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Jan 1, 2017 08:16
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I'm looking for a tool/purchase recommendation: I received a pair of gift cards to Lie-Nielsen. I'm just starting out in handheld woodworking - all I've got currently are a refurb stanley #4, #6, a veritas blcok plane, and a low angle bevel up jack plane [62?]. Next on my list was a saw or two and starting to get some chisels, but I was not planning on getting those from Lie Nielsen - I figure . Should I use the gift card on a plane, or pick up a dovetail saw + some chisels instead?
Zhent fucked around with this message at 12:06 on Jan 1, 2017 |
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Jan 1, 2017 12:01
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If you don't need anything from Lie Nielsen, you could sell them. I'm sure someone here would take them. Otherwise, their router plane is well reviewed and priced not much higher than a vintage Stanley. Not sure what block plane you have, but I grabbed their low angle rabbet plane which is nice for sneaking up on tenons. I haven't read anything about their saws or chisels, but I'm sure they're outstanding if you want to spend that kind of money (used vintage saws are very cheap).
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Jan 1, 2017 14:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The average diameter is a hair over 12". So...maybe? A really sweet shop stool!
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Jan 1, 2017 15:51
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ColdPie posted:If you don't need anything from Lie Nielsen, you could sell them. I'm sure someone here would take them. Otherwise, their router plane is well reviewed and priced not much higher than a vintage Stanley. Not sure what block plane you have, but I grabbed their low angle rabbet plane which is nice for sneaking up on tenons. I haven't read anything about their saws or chisels, but I'm sure they're outstanding if you want to spend that kind of money (used vintage saws are very cheap). Yeah, I need enough tools that I'm happy to use it. A router plane makes a lot of sense. I've been focusing on the bench planes and trying to get these old Stanleys in working order again, which has been a struggle in itself.
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Jan 1, 2017 16:31
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ColdPie posted:(used vintage saws are very cheap). If you can find them, yes. But they are getting harder and harder to find "in the wild" and will often need resharpening, which is another relatively big step you have to take before you get them in working condition. Not saying it's a bad route but it's not nearly as easy as it was eight years ago or so. On what to get from lie Nielsen given what you already own: a router plane would top my list, if you want to buy new saws then the lie Nielsen panel saws are well regarded (and unlike the backsaws there isn't an equivalent quality option for a cheaper price). If you don't have enough marking tools Lie Nielsen has a fantastic selection, their panel gauge is pretty unique at its price point in the market, but they also carry tite-mark gauges and a whole range of starrett products.
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Jan 1, 2017 17:42
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I got two turn of the century full size Disstons for $30 each shipped on ebay with no other bidders v v They both needed sharpening, but that's easy.
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Jan 1, 2017 18:08
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Quick check -- if my only plane currently is a block plane, then a Stanley 5 or thereabouts should be the next on the list, right? I'm looking on eBay and seeing prices of $30 at the low end (for a visibly covered-in-rust specimen) to over $100 for restored planes. What's a "reasonable" amount to be paying? I can probably handle restoring one. Edit: any opinions on corrugated soles? TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jan 1, 2017 |
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Jan 1, 2017 18:12
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Quick check -- if my only plane currently is a block plane, then a Stanley 5 or thereabouts should be the next on the list, right? I'm looking on eBay and seeing prices of $30 at the low end (for a visibly covered-in-rust specimen) to over $100 for restored planes. What's a "reasonable" amount to be paying? I can probably handle restoring one. Corrugation does not matter. I would recommend buying a plane from a known restorer rather than just shooting in the dark on eBay, doubly so if it is your first bench plane. I know you "can" restore a plane but that does not mean you'll "know" when you've done enough as you currently don't have anything to compare it to. I'd also widen your search to include the no6, it's additional length makes it passable as a jointer as well. If I only had one bench plane it would be a no 6 sized plane. I recommend the poster "tablesawtom" on woodnet for restored planes based on my personal experience, but there are lots of others who restore planes.
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Jan 1, 2017 18:45
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GEMorris posted:If you can find them, yes. But they are getting harder and harder to find "in the wild" and will often need resharpening, which is another relatively big step you have to take before you get them in working condition. Not saying it's a bad route but it's not nearly as easy as it was eight years ago or so. That's sort of what worries me about taking on more restoration projects - I've had enough trouble figuring out when my planes were restored 'properly' that I'd almost like to start with something I know is correct, and then add to it from there with items I can refurbish myself using the new saw as a comparison. quote:On what to get from lie Nielsen given what you already own: a router plane would top my list, if you want to buy new saws then the lie Nielsen panel saws are well regarded (and unlike the backsaws there isn't an equivalent quality option for a cheaper price). If you don't have enough marking tools Lie Nielsen has a fantastic selection, their panel gauge is pretty unique at its price point in the market, but they also carry tite-mark gauges and a whole range of starrett products. That's good to know and I had assumed the opposite, that a panel saw would be more cheaply purchased later on. I can stretch to cover the router plane and one of the two panel saws, rip or crosscut. If you picked one, is one easier to use for both uses? Thanks!
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Jan 1, 2017 19:07
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GEMorris posted:Corrugation does not matter. Thanks for the advice. Do you just lurk the Tool Swap'n'Sell subforum until he posts some planes, or what? As far as I can tell he doesn't have a storefront. Any other restorers you'd recommend?
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Jan 1, 2017 19:34
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I have this guy saved and plan to get some from him. He was recommended on lumberjocks. http://www.timetestedtools.net/2016/01/28/planes-for-sale/
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Jan 1, 2017 19:39
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