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foot posted:Any advice on small engine repair/maintenance? I have a chipper/shredder that I want to get running but it's been outside for 5 years or thereabout. Change oil, plug, change gas. The yank like you're 14 again with a blip of starter fluid. Pray to flathead jesus
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Jan 5, 2017 00:46
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Hey guys, I drive a 2004 Saturn L300 I inherited a couple years ago and I think it's grown incontinent in its advanced age. What's pictured: - Three shots of a neat new yellow-orange stain next to a big greasy stain that's caused by my car's constant trickle of leaking coolant. - Two shots of the engine wet with something that has the same luster as freshly leaked coolant. - One top-down shot of what sits over the stains. The yellow-orange one lines up somewhat well with the steering fluid tank, but there's plenty of tubing in that general area. The coolant leak isn't new, as should be evident from the size of the stain. I'm more alarmed by the orange one since that just showed up out of nowhere. Any idea what that's likely to be?
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Jan 5, 2017 01:15
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foot posted:Any advice on small engine repair/maintenance? I have a chipper/shredder that I want to get running but it's been outside for 5 years or thereabout. Dump the fuel, change the oil, get a new air filter and spark plug, clean or buy a new carb, probably replace all the rubber lines. Small engines are usually pretty simple beasts.
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Jan 5, 2017 01:18
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Meldonox posted:Hey guys, I drive a 2004 Saturn L300 I inherited a couple years ago and I think it's grown incontinent in its advanced age. It's probably your actual coolant. Your car likely has orange Dex-Cool. Edit: Well, had.
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Jan 5, 2017 05:18
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yamdankee posted:2002 Lexus IS300, sedan ~135k miles You didn't remove the wrong sensor, did you? Don't know what's up with that, I would have said it's the same sensor but then the bodies are different. Not familiar enough with Denso sensors to say whether or not the element/heater has changed. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=991978&cc=1387111 vs http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1607038&cc=1387111 Both are supposed to be downstream sensors so that's just weird. totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Jan 5, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 05:32
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yamdankee posted:2002 Lexus IS300, sedan ~135k miles You pulled the wrong sensor it seems. The middle bar is parallel to the clip on the bank 1 sensor, perpendicular on the bank two sensor Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Jan 5, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 05:38
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yamdankee posted:2002 Lexus IS300, sedan ~135k miles You removed the wrong sensor. I just double checked, you did order the correct sensor. The only difference in the bank 1 and 2 sensor 2 models is the plug, as porn popper said. Looking at some pictures, you need to remove the sensor that's behind the first catalytic converter (looking from the front of the car). It looks like you either removed the one from the behind the second catalytic converter, or removed sensor 1 instead of 2.
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Jan 5, 2017 06:26
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I think I did something stupid, so now for a stupid question. '96 miata, was replacing the slave cylinder and then I tried to bleed the clutch line via the gravity system plus helper (one person in the car pushing the clutch, my dumb rear end outside with the tubing connected to the bleeder) But I didn't actually have the loving clutch line connected to the slave cylinder. I think I filled the entire line with mostly air? Any suggestions on how I can fix my mistake? I tried bleeding it for about 20 minutes and it seemed to be doing literally nothing, no bubbles, and worse 0 clutch fluid was taken in. 1st_Panzer_Div. fucked around with this message at 07:13 on Jan 5, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 06:45
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1st_Panzer_Div. posted:I think I did something stupid, so now for a stupid question. '96 miata, was replacing the slave cylinder and then I tried to bleed the clutch line via the gravity system plus helper (one person in the car pushing the clutch, my dumb rear end outside with the tubing connected to the bleeder) Try bleeding the clutch master cylinder. It has an air clog that is preventing the fluid from leaving. I have seen this on brake systems for the same reasons.
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Jan 5, 2017 07:15
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When I had to replace the clutch master on my '99 Miata, I full on forgot to bench bleed the fucker  A Mityvac hooked up on the slave bleeder was able to get the job done.
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Jan 5, 2017 07:22
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I can definitely try the mityvac, this video is a good demonstration of what is not happening. When I press the clutch in, the clutch is not pressing against the cylinder as it does at 9 seconds here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mUXprlCxyg Glad to know I'm not alone on this
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Jan 5, 2017 07:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:When I had to replace the clutch master on my '99 Miata, I full on forgot to bench bleed the fucker It's often easy enough to "bench bleed" a clutch or brake master while it's in the vehicle (depending on how it's mounted), just disconnect the lines from it and a couple rags to catch spills. I saw some video a while back where a guy bled the clutch by moving the slave cylinder by hand (extending it to suck fluid down, compressing it to push fluid/air out). He said something like "this is how you do it if you're by yourself" and that it was just as good, but I'm not sure how well it actually worked in bleeding it.
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Jan 5, 2017 08:23
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carcinofuck posted:I have a 05 Accord, but I'm assuming this problem is not specific to any make or model: Nobody answered this? You have a float in the tank that goes up and down with the fuel level (the 'sender'). That sends a signal and that signal is interpreted via the ECU and used to control the gauge. Normally, wonky reading suggest a bad sender and you simply replace the entire unit inside the gas tank. However, if you have the reserve light coming on while the needle still shows the tank as part-full, I'd suggest that the gauge itself is knackered and you need to swap it out. (i.e.if the light and the needle are not in sync with each other, I'd suggest that the sender is working and the gauge is broke) spog fucked around with this message at 10:50 on Jan 5, 2017 |
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Jan 5, 2017 10:25
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totalnewbie, Cop Porn Popper, Yu-Gi-Ho! - you guys are awesome. Thank you very much!
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Jan 5, 2017 14:53
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Bought a used Ford Flex last year still under factory warranty, warranty is up in about 2k miles. Any worth into looking at getting a factory extended warranty? I can get a 8year/100k full coverage for about $2k. Our last flex had one major repair on the CD player which ran about $900 and was covered by the CPO warranty.
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Jan 5, 2017 17:21
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The thing with warranties is they exist to make money for whomever is selling the warranty. It's a gamble that usually works out in their favor. I don't think there is one 'correct' answer as to whether or not they are worth it unless you are dealing with an extraordinarily reliable or unreliable vehicle.
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Jan 5, 2017 17:44
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Michael Scott posted:The thing with warranties is they exist to make money for whomever is selling the warranty. It's a gamble that usually works out in their favor. Over a long time with a massive pool of buyers, correct, but it changes when dealing with the individual. If you have two buyers who paid $2k for a warranty and one had $3500 in repair and the other had no claims, the one with the repairs "saved" $1500. The other did not. For the individual with the repairs the warranty was a good value, for the other one not so much. My main concern is really with the infotainment stuff. When the CD player went out on my last Flex (may have been some change got jammed in there from the kids, they never said), the only way to fix it was to replace the entire infotainment system as it was all one integrated piece. We don't drive a lot of miles on this car, but if the touchscreen goes out or the power liftgate breaks then just the parts get to be pricey. I had a warranty on my Milan I never really had to use so I'm leaning towards no, but there's also a lot of more stuff on this one than the old car.
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Jan 5, 2017 18:43
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FCKGW posted:Over a long time with a massive pool of buyers, correct, but it changes when dealing with the individual. Find out how much an extended warranty will cost, take that money and put it into an interest bearing account. You'll come out ahead 90% of the time.
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Jan 5, 2017 19:16
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spog posted:Nobody answered this? Since it's shifted over to one side, I'm guessing that there's increased resistance somewhere (a connection? in the rheostat itself?) causing the gauge to read high. Cleaning connections might help, but like you said it might come down to just replacing one end or the other. If you can find a spec for the sending unit or gauge, you can probably figure out with a multimeter whether the sender is doing the right thing or not.
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Jan 5, 2017 23:53
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I'm with spog though - if the sender was hosed, the low fuel light should be equally inaccurate. I've never heard of anyone putting in separate sensors for the gauge and the warning light.
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Jan 6, 2017 01:25
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I believe 96 Cherokees have that, IoC, but 95% of vehicles do not, like you said.
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Jan 6, 2017 05:17
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I have 2016.5 Mazda cx-5, about 3 months since purchased with <1k on the odometer. When I took it to the grocery store yesterday it cranked kind of slow which I chalked up to the fact that it was -10F. It proceeded to run fine to and from the grocery store. This morning when I went to start it I could only get the starter relay to click a handful of times after which point it totally died*. What are the chances of having a dead battery on a car that's this new and not some other gremlin like the remote start they installed draining it? Are OEM batteries really that crappy at dealing with cold temps? *The sound of a starter failing to engage at 5:30 in the morning when it's -10F outside is probably one of the most depressing sounds ever.
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Jan 6, 2017 16:18
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Can we sperg about manual transmissions and how to approach stops and corners on public roads? Conversations I've found via Google drive me crazy with all sorts of people talking past each other and many giving bad information. I drive a Focus ST. 6 speed manual. When cruising at 40mph and above, I'm in 6th gear. At 40mph this is around 1400 RPM. Let's keep any notion of heel-toe shifting out of the conversation, I want to learn it some day but my pedals aren't set up well for it and I don't think it's in the common driver's daily practice anyhow. I like the idea of keeping the car in gear as much as possible, but I also try to keep things simple. Stepping down through each gear when slowing seems excessive, and constantly wears on the clutch as it tries to keep things in sync while decelerating (I see a lot of UK drivers recommend techniques like this but I think their gearing is much different than mine or they put up with a lot of jerkiness and/or clutch wear on these repetitive down shifts). With my foot on the brake, rev matching isn't really practical. 6th gear starts to bog the engine while the car is still too fast for my liking. So, given enough notice, I like to down shift to 3rd directly, with a rev match, which allows me to slow through about 15MPH before having to press the clutch pedal in and finish the stop. This seems adequate enough for me for most stops even from highway speeds (~4000RPM at 60MPH in 3rd). The big issue is if I need to make a turn at that particular intersection without stopping. 3rd isn't slow enough for a comfortable 90 degree turn. 2nd is a pretty big jump from faster speeds if I want to stay in the same gear during the entire deceleration. So what do I do here? My current practice is to slow as much as possible in 3rd, clutch in before bogging down just as I approach the turn, hold it as I enter the turn then shift into 2nd and clutch out after I let off the brake (so I can be back on the accelerator and match the revs up ever so slightly to catch 2nd). My only gripe with this is that I'm entering the intersection and making the turn "in between" gears, which seems like an improper time to not have the wheels connected to the engine. The only other option is to let off the brake at some point during the approach to change into 2nd earlier, but that halts my braking and throws smoothness out the window. I realize I'm sperging, I just like to talk this stuff out, though, because official guidance on this stuff is difficult to find online. Thanks.
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Jan 6, 2017 16:18
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Brake a little more aggressively and shift into 2nd.
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Jan 6, 2017 16:51
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KodiakRS posted:I have 2016.5 Mazda cx-5, about 3 months since purchased with <1k on the odometer. When I took it to the grocery store yesterday it cranked kind of slow which I chalked up to the fact that it was -10F. It proceeded to run fine to and from the grocery store. This morning when I went to start it I could only get the starter relay to click a handful of times after which point it totally died*. What are the chances of having a dead battery on a car that's this new and not some other gremlin like the remote start they installed draining it? Are OEM batteries really that crappy at dealing with cold temps? Chances are low that it's the battery itself and high that it's the remote start or other gremlin.
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Jan 6, 2017 17:26
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The Ferret King posted:Can we sperg about manual transmissions and how to approach stops and corners on public roads? Conversations I've found via Google drive me crazy with all sorts of people talking past each other and many giving bad information. Not that it matters for 99 percent of normal driving situations, but shift to the gear you will exit the turn in before you begin the turn and hold it throughout so that the car stays balanced. Then you can be on the power immediately after the apex and burn all those moms in their Nissan Quests. And yes, this is spergy as hell unless you're on the track. Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 17:51 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 17:48
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Also I wouldn't recommend driving around at 40mph in 6th gear in a turbo direct injected car
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Jan 6, 2017 17:56
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spog posted:However, if you have the reserve light coming on while the needle still shows the tank as part-full, I'd suggest that the gauge itself is knackered and you need to swap it out. (i.e.if the light and the needle are not in sync with each other, I'd suggest that the sender is working and the gauge is broke) Thanks. That was my guess as well; that the gauge / needle has just migrated over time due to some material breakdown. Because it still goes down normally from F to E, it's just offset towards the F by a few bars. Raluek posted:Since it's shifted over to one side, I'm guessing that there's increased resistance somewhere (a connection? in the rheostat itself?) causing the gauge to read high. Cleaning connections might help, but like you said it might come down to just replacing one end or the other. I found some video where the guy just opens up the dashboard, plucks out the needle and shifts it back over, haha. carcinofuck fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 18:18
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Christobevii3 posted:Also I wouldn't recommend driving around at 40mph in 6th gear in a turbo direct injected car What does this mean, why? This is a really stupid question thread and I don't know how to drive manual yet.
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Jan 6, 2017 18:33
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If you try to accelerate at a low rpm and the turbo starts building boost you risk detonation. If you don't ever floor it in that situation and only give a little accelerator or downshift to get in 3000rpm+ area you are OK.
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Jan 6, 2017 18:49
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kastein posted:I believe 96 Cherokees have that, IoC, but 95% of vehicles do not, like you said. Of course it would be a one-year Chrysler thing. Christobevii3 posted:If you try to accelerate at a low rpm and the turbo starts building boost you risk detonation. If you don't ever floor it in that situation and only give a little accelerator or downshift to get in 3000rpm+ area you are OK. Yep - this is an issue on the Mazdaspeed3 and a few other vehicles as well. One of the major theories I saw when I had one of those was that it's an edge case for variable valve timing and boost. They use VVT at higher RPMs to reduce cylinder pressures so that the relatively high static compression ratio doesn't cause problems when the turbo generates boost. In lower gears, even if you stomp on it at idle, the engine will still rev quickly enough that by the time the turbo makes any boost, VVT is effectively making it safe. In fifth/sixth, the turbo can spool and make boost before the VVT has a chance to do its job. There were more than a few MS3/MS6 engines that were grenaded from this type of behavior.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:03
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Yeah I know that's a recipe for kaboom city from my MS3 days. Sixth was reserved for highway speeds over 60-65.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:03
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Christobevii3 posted:Also I wouldn't recommend driving around at 40mph in 6th gear in a turbo direct injected car It's the correct gear for this car according to the manual and the internal computer. I can turn shift prompts off and just ignore them but I didn't see the point if it runs in 6th without bogging down. Kibbles n Shits posted:Not that it matters for 99 percent of normal driving situations, but shift to the gear you will exit the turn in before you begin the turn and hold it throughout so that the car stays balanced. Then you can be on the power immediately after the apex and burn all those moms in their Nissan Quests. And yes, this is spergy as hell unless you're on the track. Yeah so that is 2nd gear and that leads me to my conundrum of how to get to 2nd while braking if I don't want to shift directly into it before braking begins.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:09
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I mean cruising along in sixth is fine, but I'd definitely downshift before attempting any kind of large throttle inputs. Also this could not be an issue at all on the ST, again just speaking for the DISI in the MS3/6.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:11
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Definitely agree on downshifting prior to acceleration if I'm in 6th.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:13
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The Ferret King posted:It's the correct gear for this car according to the manual and the internal computer. I can turn shift prompts off and just ignore them but I didn't see the point if it runs in 6th without bogging down. I don't see what's so bad about braking to the correct speed -> downshifting -> entering the turn. I think you're over analyzing things just a bit. I also don't see whats bad about just lugging it a bit in 3rd through the turn and downshifting on the turn exit. In fact I fail to see any scenario in which it really matters how you take a low speed 90 degree turn on the streets, so long as you are at a safe speed. Ofc if you were on the track you'd be heel toe shifting to make optimum use of your time but doing that around town sounds like some tryhard bullshit to me. Is there a particular reason you are trying to optimize this?
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Jan 6, 2017 19:18
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The Ferret King posted:It's the correct gear for this car according to the manual and the internal computer. I can turn shift prompts off and just ignore them but I didn't see the point if it runs in 6th without bogging down. The shift light is programmed to save fuel, not keep you from lugging the engine. Cruising at 1400RPM is probably not that great for your engine.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:50
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Kibbles n Shits posted:I don't see what's so bad about braking to the correct speed -> downshifting -> entering the turn. I think you're over analyzing things just a bit. I also don't see whats bad about just lugging it a bit in 3rd through the turn and downshifting on the turn exit. In fact I fail to see any scenario in which it really matters how you take a low speed 90 degree turn on the streets, so long as you are at a safe speed. Ofc if you were on the track you'd be heel toe shifting to make optimum use of your time but doing that around town sounds like some tryhard bullshit to me. Definitely over analyzing things. Because I said from the start my intent was to sperg about it and I have no formal training on driving a manual. I'm having a hard time finding definitive guidance on manual driving in general. It's all down to asking my friends and trusting random people on the Internet until I finally go get some instruction on a track or something. EightBit posted:The shift light is programmed to save fuel, not keep you from lugging the engine. Cruising at 1400RPM is probably not that great for your engine. Bad for the engine? Ok I'll keep that in mind with my daily habits. I spend most of my time in 40mph - ish zones so it comes up a lot. The Ferret King fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 19:55
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A buddy of mine just managed to get "some oil" in his power steering fluid reservoir on a 2006 Honda Civic. How hosed is he? The car is blue if that matters.
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Jan 7, 2017 00:01
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EightBit posted:The shift light is programmed to save fuel, not keep you from lugging the engine. Cruising at 1400RPM is probably not that great for your engine.  4 and 5 speeds used to cruise at highway speed at 3k or higher.
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Jan 7, 2017 00:15
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