|
Fuel injection clamps. They have a band that goes all the way around, instead of a regular worm gear hose clamp that will have little raised portions.
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 06:34
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 00:22 |
|
|
I think you mean T-bolt clamps. Get stainless ones, not plated / galv if you live somewhere where they salt the roads.
|
|
#
?
Dec 29, 2016 22:00
|
|
|
Replaced the slide pins and boots for the front calipers The brake grease I used stinks like old coffee grounds.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 02:52
|
|
|
Thank you all. Learned a lot in regards to t-clamps. Briefly browsing around they don't offer them in small sizes. I'll keep you updated on the fix I go with. The front clamps aren't the easiest due to a crossmember in the way. Weird thing is the difference between 2003 and 2004. Radiator I bought has fittings on the radiator for transmission cooler. 2004 uses the AC condenser. Shoe horning the radiator back in was a tight fit. I needed to orientate the drain plug on the radiator to get the ears of it aligned vertical to clear while futzing around with the transmission hard lines. All told, only around 12 nuts and bolts is all it takes. That and the hood latch is flopping around.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 03:59
|
|
C-Bangin' it 
|
Weirdly I too need hose clamps that aren't poo poo. The ones that came with my lolChina hose kit are pap and I have a slowwwww leak that I'd like to stop.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 12:42
|
|
|
Olympic Mathlete posted:
Only if the mud grips get replaced by something wide and lo-profile-ish. 4x4 tires need 4X4 stance. Then it needs to climb a rock like that Crown Vic at Moab.
|
|
#
?
Dec 30, 2016 23:48
|
|
|
TrueChaos posted:I think you mean T-bolt clamps. Get stainless ones, not plated / galv if you live somewhere where they salt the roads. I thought T-bolt clamps weren't as good as some other kind of hose clamp? One of the tuners I know constantly complains about them causing boost leaks.
|
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2016 02:23
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I thought T-bolt clamps weren't as good as some other kind of hose clamp? One of the tuners I know constantly complains about them causing boost leaks. God drat t-bolt clamps... When they work, they work. But they have such a small adjustment range (in some cases ~0.25" diameter difference) that it's easy to have them not fit over the hose + barb on largest adjustment, or to have them bottom out without applying sufficient sealing pressure to the outside of the hose. Or they have a bolt sticking off tangential to the clamp in the way of nearby stuff/hoods/etc. T-bolt (adjusts from 2.06" - 2.31"): http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-06-in-to-2-31-in-t-bolt-hose-clamp/A-p8017013e Hose clamp (adjusts from 1.75" - 2.75"): http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-3-4-in-Stainless-Steel-Clamp-6736595/202309380 GrantC fucked around with this message at 03:01 on Dec 31, 2016 |
|
#
?
Dec 31, 2016 02:58
|
|
Darchangel posted:Only if the mud grips get replaced by something wide and lo-profile-ish. Mercedes did make 3.90 gears and a locker for my car's rear end...
|
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 06:48
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I thought T-bolt clamps weren't as good as some other kind of hose clamp? One of the tuners I know constantly complains about them causing boost leaks. I haven't had issues with regular gear clamps, but T-bolts are definitely better if you can find an appropriately sized one. If you can't get a T-bolt to seal you either don't have room for it or you're using the wrong size.
|
|
#
?
Jan 1, 2017 23:30
|
|
|
Changed oil on the girlfriends 323 protege and rain-x the windscreen in prep for a drive up to her parents place. It's doing this lovely thing where if you use too much throttle when Taking off from a stand still or very slow roll, it'll take FOREVER to start moving. I know it's a 1.6L on a slush box but god drat it was never this bad. Is it true that leaving too long between transmission fluid changes results in the transmission relying on all the friction material floating around in the fluid to work properly? Because I changed the fluid and it seems to have only become worse.
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 06:22
|
|
|
Laserface posted:Changed oil on the girlfriends 323 protege and rain-x the windscreen in prep for a drive up to her parents place. Could be fuel filter or fuel/air mix issues? I know bad fuel filters can cause sluggish acceleration but only under heavy load, such as a hard acceleration. What year is the protege?
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 06:32
|
|
|
Michael Scott posted:Could be fuel filter or fuel/air mix issues? I know bad fuel filters can cause sluggish acceleration but only under heavy load, such as a hard acceleration. What year is the protege? 1999. I have a feeling it's probably in need of a transmission filter replacement too, but the thought of removing the transmission sump and then having to make sure I seal it back on perfectly moved it to the too hard basket (along with not actually having a direct impact on the problem)
|
|
#
?
Jan 3, 2017 11:02
|
|
|
Changed out the front sway links on the G35. They were a little  so I'm hoping that fixes the front end clunk I've got. They are a pretty weird design and unique parts for each side. The top end that connects to the sway bar doesn't use an allen head on the stud like the bottom end, it has a tang on it that once tightened will lock onto the sway bar so the stud won't move and the nut can be tightened. Thought it was interesting yet stupid since the design probably cost more than just making the drat things universal for both sides and using the same tang or allen on both ends. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 04:26
|
|
|
Replaced the front strut mounts      
|
|
#
?
Jan 4, 2017 23:53
|
|
|
Tried replacing my starter. The last 13mm bolt needed to remove it started rounding itself off. The jaws of my open ended wrench spread open, closed end wouldn't sit properly and the flare nut wrench also started having the jaws flex out which was rounding the nut off. And of course you can't put a socket on it because the loving thermostat housing is in the way.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 03:10
|
|
|
Larrymer posted:Changed out the front sway links on the G35...I'm hoping that fixes the front end clunk I've got. Sure as hell didn't.  I'm pulling out the cheap compression rods and putting in some hopefully better ones. Let me explain: The compression arm is the rear half of the lower control arm on the front, as the suspension setup on G35s/350z up front is DUMB. Two halves of a control arm, 2 lower ball joints and one upper and the bushing on the compression arm is vertical instead of horizontal like you'd expect...who would have thought these would fail all the loving time.  It's clunking on both sides and wasn't doing it before I did this job but I assumed new parts wouldn't be lovely and figured I'd try the sway links first. I didn't own this car long before starting this job so I wasn't sure if it existed before doing the rods or not, but then remembered I was surprised it wasn't making noise with how torn the bushings were. I should have just replaced the drat bushing. They're $50 each for the whole rod (aftermarket) vs $180 for OEM and I don't have a press so it made sense at the time. Too bad I already took my OEM rods to the metal scrappers. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 03:45
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:Replaced the front strut mounts What spring compressor is that? I've had some crazy moments in my life working on stuff, but when one side of my spring compressor let lose while working on it that was definitely a change your underwear moment. drat things still scare me.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 04:24
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:What spring compressor is that? It's this one http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html I was going to get the cheaper two-piece compressor, but they were out of stock.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 04:58
|
|
|
Cop Porn Popper posted:Tried replacing my starter. The last 13mm bolt needed to remove it started rounding itself off. The jaws of my open ended wrench spread open, closed end wouldn't sit properly and the flare nut wrench also started having the jaws flex out which was rounding the nut off. And of course you can't put a socket on it because the loving thermostat housing is in the way. I sold coolant flushes with every Mazda 6 starter I did for this exact reason. So much less hassle pulling the thermostat first. Plus up here coolant needs to be changed more often due to the cold weather. I had many customers thank me for fixing there heat when I replaced the starter.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 05:17
|
|
|
I'm too pig headed to do that, so I'm going to round the gently caress outta that nut tomorrow with some borrowed flex head ratcheting wrenches, then be stuck pulling the thermo housing and hammering a 12mm socket onto it anyways.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 05:21
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:It's this one http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html Guess I'm getting old, I think someone was looking out for ya with the two piece out of stock. Past couple days, replaced transmission clamps on the WJ. I think mission success, temps in the teens (F) so I basically look at the ground underneath for leaks...spotted a drop but I think that is basically from "run off' of it leaking everywhere days before. The 42RE tranny is not happy at a qt low. Did a oil change on the 98 Expy. One of the few jobs that is a joy on the truck, takes around 10 minutes. Then an extra 20 minutes of drinking a beer while I mess with the used oil and filter. Next up, dicking around with a coolant change in the LT1 equipped wagon. Thought I did a halfway decent replacement a couple months ago but it is still is somewhat dirty. I can't get the knock sensors lose on the block to really drain it, so I try to flush what I can. Replaced the thermostat when I did it, doesn't want to come up to temp. So thinking tstat is clogged due to particulates and stuck open. Coolant tank was nasty, flushed what I could out of it last time. Flushed heater core, etc. Tank still kind of crummy. gently caress Dexcool.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 05:25
|
|
|
Cop Porn Popper posted:I'm too pig headed to do that, so I'm going to round the gently caress outta that nut tomorrow with some borrowed flex head ratcheting wrenches, then be stuck pulling the thermo housing and hammering a 12mm socket onto it anyways. Also try a half inch. Or get those sockets from craftsman or Irwin that are designed to grab chooched heads.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 06:55
|
|
|
I'm borrowing a long handled flex head ratcheting wrench from a coworker since 4 of the 6 points on the head are salvagable and will probably also borrow another set of wrenches specificly for extracting fuckered bolts like this. If all else fails, we sell the irwin socket set at work. Edit: flex head wrench broke it free without breaking a sweat and even with it stripped to hell, wouldn't let the the bolt go until I chucked it in the vise and tapped it out with an extension. Still can't manuever the starter out. I'm officially giving in and taking the thermostat off. 
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jan 5, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 07:23
|
|
|
Finally started doing the seat covers. They don't look professional , but I'm happy with it, and they are way better than the old ones  
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 22:08
|
|
|
Cop Porn Popper posted:I'm borrowing a long handled flex head ratcheting wrench from a coworker since 4 of the 6 points on the head are salvagable and will probably also borrow another set of wrenches specificly for extracting fuckered bolts like this. If all else fails, we sell the irwin socket set at work. Nearly every time I've tried to avoid taking something off that *might* be in the way, it's not been worth it. Just do it. SperginMcBadposter posted:It's this one http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html That actually looks quite interesting, and possibly a better idea than renting the two-piece ones from Autozone. Though I can't help but feel like I'd be willing to pay at least a little more to get an arguably safety-critical piece of equipment from someone that isn't HF.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 22:14
|
|
|
SperginMcBadposter posted:It's this one http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html That's pretty neat. Looks like it could do them on the car, since the bulky screw bits can poke out of the wheel opening. Also no alternating side to side like on the two piece model.
|
|
#
?
Jan 5, 2017 22:32
|
|
|
Part exchanged my Cooper S today. I pick up my new car in 4 hours.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2017 08:57
|
|
|
Got a cheap fish scale so I could adjust the parking brake the right way. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2017 22:39
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:What spring compressor is that? I had a loaner tool from Autozone shear at the thread and send a spring flying 2 stories into the gutter of the roof of my house. I was hosed because I loaned out my ladder to a friend, and the truck I used to transport it, was the truck whose spring was in the gutter.
|
|
#
?
Jan 6, 2017 22:43
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I had a loaner tool from Autozone shear at the thread and send a spring flying 2 stories into the gutter of the roof of my house. At Lincoln tech in the suspension class room there were springs in a wall and marks everywhere. It was scary to say the least. One day I was doing an alignment for a teacher and the rack was in front of the class room. Half way through I hear a loud scream and a scary boom. A student had the spring fly out because it wasn't secured properly and it thankfully shot towards the ceiling and not a student.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 02:06
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I had a loaner tool from Autozone shear at the thread and send a spring flying 2 stories into the gutter of the roof of my house. Please finish that story. The only thing more clapped out than a rental spring compressor from Autozone is the brake flare tool. The one I got looked like someone tried to plumb a drat locomotive with cast iron tubing.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 07:24
|
|
|
Now I'm properly scared of suspension springs. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 09:32
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:Now I'm properly scared of suspension springs. You probably should be. I had a little accident with some suicide sticks when I was testing them out. Somehow nothing hit anything expensive but the spring put a pretty interesting dent in the floor. I've looked through every supplier and catalog in Japan and all I can find here are suicide sticks or those expensive hydraulic pillar arrangements, I think next time I have to mess with springs I'll just order a set of those jaws from overseas.The hit on shipping will probably be worth it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 09:56
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:Please finish that story. I got onto the roof by going out my bedroom window onto the porch roof with a drywall sanding pole and vaulting onto the top roof above it (only about 5' but still, that's 30 feet in the air). I got the spring back on by using a hydraulic press and a fuckton of metal zip ties and duct tape. I put it in place, got the LCA bolted up, shocks, everything all set, lowered the truck, and then stabbed at the metal zip ties with a concrete breaker bar until they let go with a horrifying BANG and the left front of the truck bounced up. Autozone tried to charge me for the tool replacement until I went apeshit on a manager and explained what happened.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 10:50
|
|
|
RillAkBea posted:You probably should be. I had a little accident with some suicide sticks when I was testing them out. Somehow nothing hit anything expensive but the spring put a pretty interesting dent in the floor. Can you get these bad boys over there: http://www.sykes-pickavant.com/products/suspension-tools/coil-spring-compression/252 I've got one on long term loan from a mate. Least scary type of compressor I have used.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 11:15
|
|
|
GnarlyCharlie4u posted:It was the outer spring compressor tool so there were 2 parts. I was holding it by one of the shafts and went to set it on the ground. The bolt that I was not holding gave out and the spring shout out away from me with terrifying speed. I remember the force of the spring leaving my hand made my arm go numb. Sweet jabbers. I assume all these spring horror stories are involving strut springs, yeah? Makes me glad the Nova just has regular coils. Changed them without using compressors at all.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 16:43
|
|
|
Strut springs usually, but really it can be any car where there's not enough suspension droop to unload the coil spring before you unbolt whatever holds it in (strut mount, lower control arm, etc). My C10 is in that category. With the WJ I can get the spring fully unloaded, but I need to compress it to actually remove it. Thankfully not by much.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 17:33
|
|
|
Tomarse posted:Can you get these bad boys over there: Thanks for the heads up, found something very similar. Different design on the compressor screw but nearly identical plates. A bit expensive but it'll probably work out cheaper than shipping something in.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 18:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 00:22 |
|
|
Back in the day we would just put struts on the floor, aim the top hat at a wall and let it fly. Made for some interesting dodge ball type maneuvers when they came back at us.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 02:24
|
|
