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Enourmo posted:If full synthetic "makes" your engine leak, your seal(s) were already bad and it was a matter of time before whatever crud was blocking the leak got dislodged. I'll have you know that the current mineral oil loss via leaking seals and gaskets in all my classic vehicles is carefully calibrated and controlled.
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Jan 9, 2017 00:25
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Tomarse posted:I'll have you know that the current mineral oil loss via leaking seals and gaskets in all my classic vehicles is carefully calibrated and controlled. I think 2-strokes are neat, too!
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Jan 9, 2017 00:28
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Enourmo posted:I think 2-strokes are neat, too! British cars and Ford share one thing in common.
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Jan 9, 2017 00:38
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Tomarse posted:I'll have you know that the current mineral oil loss via leaking seals and gaskets in all my classic vehicles is carefully calibrated and controlled. How dare you leak shame me
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Jan 9, 2017 00:40
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Geoj posted:Sorry - what was your point beyond "you're doing it wrong"? Like I said I am not continuing this here to avoid pissing everyone off, but will pm you my thoughts (for what they are worth) when I am at a real computer instead of this godawful touchscreen abomination. If I don't do so by Tuesday night feel free to pm me to remind me. I've wandered all over the political map in the last 17 years or so and I try not to be a duck but it does happen sometimes.
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Jan 9, 2017 00:58
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NitroSpazzz posted:What are you possibly getting? I grew up on that stuff and without it I doubt I would be able to fix anything.  Chassis is built but I'm missing some electronics. Haven't touched the body yet, either. I'm not used to painting the inside of plastic vehicles.
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Jan 9, 2017 01:35
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Thanks for the kind words  Boaz MacPhereson posted:
I saw your post in the RC thread. I'll reply with some good info tomorrow on a real computer. Since I've been painting on the inside for over 20 years I have a hard time thinking the other way around. Just make sure you get polycarbonate compatible spray. Tamiya spray is the best stuff. You are in for a whole world of an obsession that you don't need. Like a meth habit.
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Jan 9, 2017 01:48
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Thanks for the kind words Yeah, Tamiya paint is about all I'll use for regular plastic models so I planned on picking up some PS cans. I think I've got a pretty good idea as to where a fat chunk of my Christmas bonus is going... Congrats on Jr. number 2!
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Jan 9, 2017 01:51
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Dad gave me a 1/2 HP Craftsman drillpress for the garage. Hooray!
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Jan 9, 2017 03:10
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Enourmo posted:Jokes on you, my engine is good because I replaced all the oil seals about 15k ago. Did you ever install those shifter bushings you bought from me?
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Jan 9, 2017 04:13
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stump posted:My eBay recent search list is a smorgasbord of terrible ideas I can't afford, and cars I can afford (which also terrible ideas). I just made a diagram of what my garage would look like with the different combinations of cars I'm interested in and holy poo poo I'm insane The most reasonable thing on the list is selling everything and getting a 997 blk fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 04:22
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Did you ever install those shifter bushings you bought from me? I've been so drat busy with school the last few years I haven't had time, and that's before the whole moving into an apartment thing; I have no workspace these days. They're still sitting in my toolbox, biding their time. God I miss having even a driveway.
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Jan 9, 2017 04:54
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Tomarse posted:I'll have you know that the current mineral oil loss via leaking seals and gaskets in all my classic vehicles is carefully calibrated and controlled. Oh god this is my future isn't it? I carry a 1l around with me at all times and top up the engine as and when. I think I've worked out the exact mileage number per litre... And this is why I shall be engine swapping the car this year hopefully.
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Jan 9, 2017 09:42
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meltie posted:What's the opinion on using FS in older engines that have lived their lives on Dino? On my old car, existing oil leaks got worse, valve cover in particular turned into an oil bukakke, but cold start rattles pretty much disappeared. I also noticed on that car that the oil pressure light would shut off while cranking after switching to synthetic, before the engine fired - with conventional (same weight), it would flicker a bit while cranking, flicker a couple of times after it fired, and finally shut off after it'd been running for a second or so. That car had 130k when I got it, almost 180k when I got rid of it. Also, on the first and second oil changes after the switch, chunks of nasty came out with the oil. I don't think the oil pressure sender works on my current car.  It comes on for the bulb check at key on, but turns off when the airbag, brake, etc lights turn off, even if I haven't started the engine. Also doesn't come on if I stall the engine. You can get away with running synthetic quite a bit longer vs conventional (assuming a fuel injected gasoline engine), which helps offset the cost. The price difference isn't that big if you do your own oil changes - 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 are $27 at Walmart here (one brand of synthetic is as low as $15 for 5 quarts in the same store, which is about the same price as a 5 quart jug of name brand conventional), and my oil filters run $6 for OEM (also carried by Walmart) or $3 for Walmart's store brand. Current car story: I got my current car with 60k on it. I assume it had been run on conventional its whole life by how it looked under the oil cap and the fact that GM has absolutely zero dealer maintenance records on it (aside from its original pre-purchase inspection). It now has 160k; I've been running synthetic since I bought it. It leaks a little from the valve cover (gasket is on my list of things to do next week), but even with the extended oil change intervals I run (9-10k, basically when the "change oil" message shows up), it only uses 1-2 quarts between oil changes. That amount of consumption is less than what car makers consider normal on a brand new car that's within warranty, and I don't exactly baby it. The 100k I've put on it are mostly delivery/courier miles, so it's seen a ton of city miles, lots of redline pulls to merge with highway traffic, and a lot of engine off/on cycles. I've sent oil samples in to Blackstone Labs 3 times now, and they always say the wear levels they see are along the lines of an engine with far less miles. After looking at the bottom of the oil filler cap, and inside the valve cover through the filler opening, I'm pretty sure the original owner didn't really think about oil changes much. It's nasty in there, but hasn't gotten any worse since I've owned it. Enourmo posted:If full synthetic "makes" your engine leak, your seal(s) were already bad and it was a matter of time before whatever crud was blocking the leak got dislodged. Also, this. Synthetic typically has more detergents than conventional oil (so I'm told), so it'll wash away stuff that's clogging a bad gasket. That gasket needed replacing anyway. spog posted:UK: In the US, Napa was selling store brand full synthetic for $3/quart in single quart bottles recently, which works out to roughly 4.75 litres if you get 5 quarts (my car takes 5 quarts, so I always buy the big bottles, then buy whatever is cheap to top it off if I need to). No idea on the currency conversion though. For comparison, I typically pay $27 for a 5 quart bottle of Mobil 1 high mileage synthetic, with individual quarts selling for $7 at the same store. Maybe they're selling it as a loss leader? As in, sell it at a loss to get people in the door, in hopes that they'll buy other stuff. It's very common to do that in the US to get people in the door, in hopes they'll buy other stuff. The Locator posted:MGS can provide more details, but in this area many of the big cities have the ambulance service as part of the fire department and are paid accordingly, but it's ridiculously competitive to land a job with one of those departments. I didn't want to give away the company or city MGS was in (even though it's fairly common knowledge in the chat thread), but... yeah. Rural/Metro doesn't pay worth poo poo, and at least from what I understand, I think the city he's in outsources most EMS services to R/M? The city I'm in pays police recruits $57k/year, and doesn't require a college degree, topping out at $79k/year. That's before overtime. Pay for EMS and fire is a bit harder to find, but it looks like a recruit FF/EMT-B starts at $51k before OT. From what I'm reading it sounds like you have to be cross trained as both a FF and a minimum EMT-B (at least, I can't find any pay info for just EMS - all EMS stuff is lumped under fire dept). The only education requirements in my city are a GED for police, and community college for FF/EMT. And I'm in a not-wealthy-at-all city - at one point they were broke enough that instead of repairing all of the maintaining and repairing all of the outdoor warning sirens (you know, tornados, etc), they just shut them all off for a few years until they could replace the entire system (they were down to <25% of sirens working). Dallas pays less, and requires at least 45 college credit hours for police.. and the city manager wonders why they can't keep cops. Looks like their fire and EMS positions pay less than the suburb I'm in too. Tomarse posted:I'll have you know that the current mineral oil loss via leaking seals and gaskets in all my classic vehicles is carefully calibrated and controlled.  British vehicle owner spottedOlympic Mathlete posted:Oh god this is my future isn't it? I carry a 1l around with me at all times and top up the engine as and when. I think I've worked out the exact mileage number per litre... And this is why I shall be engine swapping the car this year hopefully. My Integra used enough oil that I just assumed it needed a quart every time I filled up. And generally, I was right. I eventually wound up keeping either a case or 5 quart jug in the hatch with me, and if I didn't top off the oil when I filled up, I'd be greeted with a flickering oil light before I filled up again. The friend I wound up giving the car to said oil poured out of the cat once he yanked the engine and downpipe. I believe it, compression was barely into the double digits on 2 cylinders. Downshifting in that thing at highway speeds would give off a smoke screen that would make James Bond poo poo himself. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:26 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 10:23
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scuz posted:I don't know if this is a grass-is-greener argument but at least in programming I'll get to use some part of my creative side. I'm so bored and angry most of my days at the sysadmin desk because it's all so loving boring. My brain did not develop to "just get over it" so I just find ways to distract myself from work while it piles up. I made the swap from IT to Product Dev last year and it made me much happier. If you have an opportunity then take it since IT is soul destroying. Car related: http://www.reuters.com/article/us-fiatchrysler-usa-idUSKBN14S0WL FCA invest in a new Jeep plant. When questioned about the brands such as Dodge and Chrysler the spokesperson responded with "the what now?". BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 14:38
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So last night I got backed into in a parking lot by a guy who wasn't looking. Luckily he didn't shoot out of the space and he was to my left and had room to brake once I honked my wtf. Unfortunately, my car was completely unharmed except for a little bit of paint transfer on the rear driver's wheel well (that didn't even get bent). I am still not freed from the shackles of my Mazda 6. Basically I dodged right just enough for it to be a love tap, if I'd gotten over another inch or two, probably wouldn't have even hit. Other car has a small dent in the bumper but the other driver is at fault here so that's his problem not mine.
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Jan 9, 2017 14:38
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Re: synthetic oil prices. The 5qt jug of Mobil1 is regularly on sale for 15 bux-ish at Wal-Mart. Some weirdos on bobistheoilguy say it's a different formula but they are full of poo poo.
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Jan 9, 2017 15:54
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I've seen plenty of claims that Walmart oil is a different "less pure" formula but never a scrap of proof.
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Jan 9, 2017 17:56
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Rhyno posted:I've seen plenty of claims that Walmart oil is a different "less pure" formula but never a scrap of proof. Ok guys, we're doing the special Walmart run today, so go grab your piss-bottles. Make sure you don't mix up the indistinguishable jugs and cartons with that other lot we're sending to the dealers (DEALERS HAVE THE BEST OIL).
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Jan 9, 2017 18:16
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If it meets a certain spec it meets the spec. It is not like when a certain gold handed chain of automotive service centres put the wrong grade of oil in which caused the CEL to come on since the sensitive precious baby disabled the VVT if the oil was too thick.
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Jan 9, 2017 18:22
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok guys, we're doing the special Walmart run today, so go grab your piss-bottles. Make sure you don't mix up the indistinguishable jugs and cartons with that other lot we're sending to the dealers (DEALERS HAVE THE BEST OIL). The best was a guy who claimed to work for a MAJOR OIL MAKER and they stamped codes in UV ink on the bottles that identified it as destined for Walmart.
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Jan 9, 2017 18:39
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angryrobots posted:Re: synthetic oil prices. I've been buying m1 at Walmart for the last 3 years and haven't seen it on sale once, I guess I have terrible timing?
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Jan 9, 2017 18:44
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I buy my Mobil1 from Costco; that way the NWO can't track me.
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Jan 9, 2017 18:45
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Rhyno posted:The best was a guy who claimed to work for a MAJOR OIL MAKER and they stamped codes in UV ink on the bottles that identified it as destined for Walmart. That sounds like it would be real easy to verify.
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Jan 9, 2017 18:50
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Pham Nuwen posted:That sounds like it would be real easy to verify. Oh when called on it he claimed they wiped every bottle so it couldn't be tracked back. He was shortly kicked from the FB group this conversation happened in.
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Jan 9, 2017 18:51
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok guys, we're doing the special Walmart run today, so go grab your piss-bottles. Make sure you don't mix up the indistinguishable jugs and cartons with that other lot we're sending to the dealers (DEALERS HAVE THE BEST OIL). Most of the 5-quart jugs I've seen at Walmart are labeled "Recycle your oil at Walmart!" on the printed label, so.... it's possible? But it also seems like the expense of creating a separate formula (and losing economies of scale) would eat up the savings. I've never done a VOA but I've done plenty of UOAs on Walmart-sourced oil and it always comes out fine. Edit: That bottle label could be a Pennzoil-only thing, but here's an example: 
IOwnCalculus fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 18:53
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Modus Man posted:I've been buying m1 at Walmart for the last 3 years and haven't seen it on sale once, I guess I have terrible timing? I dunno, but it's not all the time. Also it may be on the endcap or somewhere else with the sale price, but the normal aisle location says regular price. Seen that too.
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Jan 9, 2017 18:54
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IOwnCalculus posted:Most of the 5-quart jugs I've seen at Walmart are labeled "Recycle your oil at Walmart!" on the printed label, so.... it's possible? But it also seems like the expense of creating a separate formula (and losing economies of scale) would eat up the savings. Walmart Canada used to have a great house brand of all-recycled oil. It was pretty dope because I bet you got some of the synthetics package of all the contributed oil for free, but even if not it was cheaper than hanging out behind the Mr. Lube and distracting them while you pumped out the used-oil dumpster into your filler neck. We had a beater at the time that went through about a gallon of oil per month, so getting said oil for $10 instead of $25-44 was a big help.
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Jan 9, 2017 18:56
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angryrobots posted:The 5qt jug of Mobil1 is regularly on sale for 15 bux-ish at Wal-Mart. Some weirdos on bobistheoilguy say it's a different formula but they are full of poo poo. I've never seen it for less than $19 there, and that was once - sales usually bring it down to $22-23 and change. You sure they're not talking about Mobil Super? angryrobots posted:Also it may be on the endcap or somewhere else with the sale price, but the normal aisle location says regular price. Seen that too. I saw the opposite last time I was there. Endcap price was $29. Shelf tags were $26. It rang up as $29 and they refused to even send someone to look at the shelf tag, so I walked out without anything. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 19:03
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I wouldn't put anything but the finest mobil1 in my precious 12 year old Yamaha motor my friend.  Naw I'm pretty sure it was 15-16 bucks. If I see it again I'll take a picture. Edit: maybe it's regional? Looks like our regular price is $25.47. angryrobots fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Jan 9, 2017 |
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Jan 9, 2017 19:13
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Re: different oil at Walmart, there is a possibility this is true. It's been well documented that as a result of Walmart dictating prices to suppliers (with a "do it or we'll find someone who will" threat attached) many of their suppliers have Walmart specific products that are either made to a lower spec reflecting the price, or in the case of big ticket items like TVs they'll deliberately ship sub-par products, like units with B-grade LCD panels installed. There isn't any database of known products like this (that I'm aware of) but it's certainly possible that the formulation of a given motor oil sold at Walmart is different - and if so, likely in a "for the worse" manner - from what you'd buy from a dealership, parts store or really any other retailer that isn't big enough to tell its suppliers what it will pay for a given product. Not saying if the above is true that the oil is going to grenade your engine, but it's certainly possible that the oil they sell is different.
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Jan 9, 2017 19:18
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The walmart items will have some clue like a different model number. They will have a different upc. If the upc is the same, it is probably the same.
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Jan 9, 2017 19:39
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nm posted:The walmart items will have some clue like a different model number. They will have a different upc. If the upc is the same, it is probably the same. I believe I saw someone compare the UPCs on name brand oils across Walmart, Meijer, Autozone and O'Reilly's and they were identical.
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Jan 9, 2017 19:42
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Any UK goons got home CCTV? I'm thinking of putting a Swann system up incase my neighbour escalates his dickheadery beyond passive-aggressive but I'm open to recommendations.
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Jan 9, 2017 19:44
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Massive muti-reply, incoming! (STR's not the only one who can do it!) Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:At least in TX, EMS is usually part of the city fire department if the city is large enough to have a paid fire department, and the ambulances are parked at the fire station in one of the bays. The firefighters are almost always cross trained to at least an EMT Basic level, and calling for an ambulance often gets a fire truck too. So I guess all the LifeStar and other private ambulance companies are just doing hospital/non-emergency transport? Because I see plenty of them abound the area. Pham Nuwen posted:I would like to clean my 'new' transmission a little bit before I install it. What's the best way to get old nasty grease off without making a huge mess / killing all my grass / etc? Purple Power and a rise? If I work on a concrete slab, will it stain the fucker? Purple Power is amazing, but be aware that it will darken aluminum and strip paint, if you care. The dissolved grease may or may not stain your concrete - it depends on porosity and the whims of Finagle. Get a cheap under-car drip pan to scrub it on. If you have a power washer, use that. They make things so much easier, even a cheap one. Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yes, it will stain the slab. I've done the carwash thing, too, before I had a power washer. I really need to find the low-pressure attachment for it so I can use the soap/additive tank (Task Force found free in someones trash. It's amazing what folks throw away. Same guy chucked a Dremel disk/belt sander, and an '80s Roland electric piano [with floppy drive!] that needed a little repair but works great!) Simple Green works well, too, though not as well as the purple stuff, but it doesn't strip paint, skin, etc., so safer to use around other stuff. Tomarse posted:I assume these are to join something post 1970 to the V8 engine block where some genius decided that rather than changing the machining to put a different hole and thread in the block they would instead create a special part in the form of an imperial metric bolt? Yeah, 3/8-16 = 3/8 UNC. poo poo, ask someone here (US.) We can probably go rip a hundred SAE bolts out of some '70s pickup or another in the wrecking yard, or any pre-90s American V8, I bet. 3/8-16, if that's what you need, is super common on GM engines. Or, I suppose we could buy new and ship. No idea if that would be any cheaper for you. meltie posted:What's the opinion on using FS in older engines that have lived their lives on Dino? I don't think there's a problem with that, though I don't know, with synthetic, if you need to worry so much about the ZDDP additive for flat-tappet cams. I prefer to run Rotella in my Cutlass, due to the flat-tappet cam, and detergents in the diesel oil. Enourmo posted:E: currently sitting at the tire shop getting 2 new tires, because the puncture was too close to the sidewall and the other tire was 5/3/4. Which is weird since I never over inflate them and I don't run sikk camber. If it's on the front, that just seems to happen with FWD, though a lot of the time they wear both edges. Tomarse posted:I'll have you know that the current mineral oil loss via leaking seals and gaskets in all my classic vehicles is carefully calibrated and controlled. Of course. It's metered carefully to prevent rust. CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:How dare you leak shame me The safeword is"Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate" Somewhat Heroic posted:I saw your post in the RC thread. I'll reply with some good info tomorrow on a real computer. Since I've been painting on the inside for over 20 years I have a hard time thinking the other way around. Just make sure you get polycarbonate compatible spray. Tamiya spray is the best stuff. You are in for a whole world of an obsession that you don't need. Like a meth habit. This is why I continue to look at RC stuff longingly, but don't commit. I can't afford another hobby, especially not that one. What makes it worse is my buddy owns an RC hobby shop. I love those Tamiya solid axle 4x4 chassis. The scale accuracy pleases the model nerd that I am. I've wanted one since they came out with the Toyota Hilux back in the '80s. Which also introduced me to the name the rest if the world knew those trucks by, too. Geoj posted:Re: different oil at Walmart, there is a possibility this is true. It's been well documented that as a result of Walmart dictating prices to suppliers (with a "do it or we'll find someone who will" threat attached) many of their suppliers have Walmart specific products that are either made to a lower spec reflecting the price, or in the case of big ticket items like TVs they'll deliberately ship sub-par products, like units with B-grade LCD panels installed. I knew about the Walmart-specific electronics, but I hadn't though about oil or other stuff like that. That would be a good thing to know, if true.
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Jan 9, 2017 19:49
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So in my repeat trips to Autozone this weekend, I noticed this being advertised: Seems like it's along the same lines as Seafoam Deep Creep. They're advertising it as something you can just tuck into the throttle body or just past the MAF. If it ends up being effective I'd make that something like an annual maintenance item next time I end up with a GDI engine.
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Jan 9, 2017 20:19
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A deposit has been placed  itshappening.gif This is going to be the longest ~2-3 weeks of my life.
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Jan 9, 2017 20:29
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drat, great choice. I see one just like that in town and I drool every time.
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Jan 9, 2017 20:31
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hell yeah boi
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Jan 9, 2017 20:32
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nm posted:The walmart items will have some clue like a different model number. They will have a different upc. If the upc is the same, it is probably the same. You would think this would be the case, but a friend of mine stumbled across the Walmart specific products thing completely by accident several years ago. He bought two bags of the same socks - one at Walmart, the other at a department store like Dillard's or Macy's and everything was identical between the two - UPC/SKU, product number on the bag, packaging was identical but the socks from Walmart were obviously more cheaply made than the ones from the department store. Granted this is anecdotal evidence, and things may have changed in the time that has passed but I would assume Walmart wouldn't want any obvious indication that the products they sell are any different from what gets sold at competitors.
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Jan 9, 2017 20:40
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