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It is going to be a permanent/semi-permanent piece in their studio. They have a studio for this, apparently.
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Jan 6, 2017 07:34
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mekilljoydammit posted:I guess that's my cue to get my rear end back in gear then. Here's keyboard keys in case you want to try that out too http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018014 Rotten Cookies posted:It is going to be a permanent/semi-permanent piece in their studio. 'Studio', yeah. That's the sort of product research you want to do in private browsing mode. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 09:35 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 09:33
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Rotten Cookies posted:It is going to be a permanent/semi-permanent piece in their studio. You might want to consider a design that bolts together then. That way you can assemble it, make sure it's sturdy enough, and then deliver it. Also makes painting easier if they want that. My biggest concern with a design like that is the bending of the horizontal beams from the load on the swing. What I would do is a quick test where I take the full length of the beam, support it on both ends, and then load it with whatever my target weight is. Stand on it or something and see how much it bends.
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Jan 6, 2017 13:53
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Don't forget that it'll be seeing dynamic loads. 
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Jan 6, 2017 18:46
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I love you guys 
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Jan 6, 2017 19:13
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One Legged Ninja posted:Don't forget that it'll be seeing dynamic loads. Fatigue might be an issue, what with the repetitive load cycle and all.
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Jan 6, 2017 19:19
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Something something vibration...
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Jan 6, 2017 19:35
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Volkerball posted:evidently you need coolant. As best I can tell, you need coolant because the material you're drilling into (ie living tissue) is super, super sensitive to heat. You don't want to cook the person's bones as you're drilling.
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Jan 6, 2017 20:34
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Magres posted:As best I can tell, you need coolant because the material you're drilling into (ie living tissue) is super, super sensitive to heat. You don't want to cook the person's bones as you're drilling. My dentist told me that it is the heat from drilling that causes the most discomfort even with just cavity/occlusion fillings. But cold water also bothers my teeth so gently caress living tissue I guess 
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Jan 6, 2017 22:01
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knowonecanknow posted:My dentist told me that it is the heat from drilling that causes the most discomfort even with just cavity/occlusion fillings. But cold water also bothers my teeth so gently caress living tissue I guess Embrace the synthetic 
Slung Blade fucked around with this message at 22:14 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 22:07
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But really though I think my dentist was a little frightened by how much spergy machinist interest I take in her tools. Especially the first time I saw an endo file tell me everything about these titanium 60 micron hand drills do you have an old catalog I can browse
shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Jan 6, 2017 |
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Jan 6, 2017 23:15
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Self-adjusting files is a general term for hollow, compressible files made of nickel-titanium that adapt three-dimensionally to the shape of a given root canal, including its cross section.[1] The files are operated with vibratory in-and-out motion, with continuous irrigation of disinfectant delivered by a peristaltic pump through the hollow file. A uniform layer of dentin is removed from the whole circumference of the root canal, thus achieving the main goals of root canal treatment while preserving the remaining root dentin. now that is just cool as heck
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Jan 6, 2017 23:28
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What takes it right over the top is all the manufacturers of those things love running the exact same "Trial 10 packs and get five free plus the toolholder!" specials insert companies do.
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Jan 6, 2017 23:37
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Magres posted:As best I can tell, you need coolant because the material you're drilling into (ie living tissue) is super, super sensitive to heat. You don't want to cook the person's bones as you're drilling. Why not? It should heat treat them and make them stronger. You could have a bionic mouth.
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Jan 7, 2017 00:41
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shame on an IGA posted:But really though I think my dentist was a little frightened by how much spergy machinist interest I take in her tools. Especially the first time I saw an endo file tell me everything about these titanium 60 micron hand drills do you have an old catalog I can browse Holy poo poo are you me? Especially because we do a lot of medical component work at our shop, I love seeing that stuff.
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Jan 7, 2017 00:56
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cleaning up in the garage and found lots of artifacts i forgot about making at some point, including this lovely h.r. giger-inspired foldformed cockring from a couple years back. iirc it was a "I like your work, surprise me with something for a dick" commission where payment never materialized. freakin, salud 
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Jan 10, 2017 01:38
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Ambrose Burnside posted:cleaning up in the garage and found lots of artifacts i forgot about making at some point, including this lovely h.r. giger-inspired foldformed cockring from a couple years back. iirc it was a "I like your work, surprise me with something for a dick" commission where payment never materialized. freakin, salud So, uh, how does one go about getting a Level 4 PPAP for a cock ring?
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Jan 10, 2017 02:27
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Muhuhahahaha... I think I've secured permission to sell cast versions of that Fury Road skull shifter. I have no idea how to price something like this though, so... uh, thing like that TBA? Or should I kick that over to an SA-MART thread, I'm really a newb at selling poo poo on forums or otherwise.
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Jan 11, 2017 15:26
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mekilljoydammit posted:Muhuhahahaha... I think I've secured permission to sell cast versions of that Fury Road skull shifter. I have no idea how to price something like this though, so... uh, thing like that TBA? Or should I kick that over to an SA-MART thread, I'm really a newb at selling poo poo on forums or otherwise. How the hell did you pull that off? Also, when can I buy it?
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Jan 11, 2017 15:59
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CBJamo posted:How the hell did you pull that off? I asked the guy who did that model and came to an arrangement? It's not official FR merch or anything and I'm going to have to be clear about the "inspired by" part because it's not quite right for the Gigahorse shift knob anyway and that's OK. I'm going to have to get the infrastructure setup a little and figure out the economics side. I'm thinking something like optimizing around doing batches of 6 at a time and going through SA-MART to start rather than the hassle of a storefront or something. Gimme a couple weeks to work up more productionized tooling and fix the foundry and stuff. I'm thinking something like $40-50 a pop at least to start out with, maybe more if I start getting tired of making them.
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Jan 11, 2017 16:49
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mekilljoydammit posted:I asked the guy who did that model and came to an arrangement? It's not official FR merch or anything and I'm going to have to be clear about the "inspired by" part because it's not quite right for the Gigahorse shift knob anyway and that's OK. I'm going to have to get the infrastructure setup a little and figure out the economics side. I'm thinking something like optimizing around doing batches of 6 at a time and going through SA-MART to start rather than the hassle of a storefront or something. Gimme a couple weeks to work up more productionized tooling and fix the foundry and stuff. Ah, I was under the impression that the model came from the movie. Still, make sure you post a link to the mart thread here, I'll buy the gently caress out of one.
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Jan 11, 2017 16:54
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mekilljoydammit posted:Muhuhahahaha... I think I've secured permission to sell cast versions of that Fury Road skull shifter. I have no idea how to price something like this though, so... uh, thing like that TBA? Or should I kick that over to an SA-MART thread, I'm really a newb at selling poo poo on forums or otherwise. I'd get an interest check, figure out your order volumes, and give a price range. From there you could do a few ways. Cost method : ((materials $ + labor $ + IP $) * (1+Profit Margin % ))/finished parts Rules of Thirds : 1/3 for Labor, 1/3 for Materials, 1/3 for Profit Or just look at comparable items on Amazon/Etsy and fall in the middle. You could also just pull a number out of your rear end and run with it. You'd be surprised how many fairly large businesses go with that. Edit : Count me in for one too, as long as the price isn't ridiculous. Yooper fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Jan 11, 2017 |
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Jan 11, 2017 17:12
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I was soaking some parts in white vinegar to remove rust and it looks like it was a little too aggressive and stripped the black oxide coating. These are the tilt and lift adjustments for the arbor on a table saw, so they will remain in a dry environment. The threaded studs are for the fence mounting on the table top. Should I look into stripping the rest of the coating and painting them, or just putting it back together as is?
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Jan 11, 2017 17:47
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Well I done hosed up today. Was melting some aluminum with my father and to be honest I have no idea what happened but all I remember was dodging some molten metal flying my way. I go spared but my glasses got hit and it melted the lens. Another 1/8 of an inch and my modeling career would have been over. On a positive note I've been looking at PPE now.
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Jan 12, 2017 03:14
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Holy poo poo that was lucky. Yeah if I were casting metal I'd be using a full face shield. Glad you're OK.
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Jan 12, 2017 20:45
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PREHEAT *clap* YOUR *clap* MOULDS
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Jan 12, 2017 21:25
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Slung Blade posted:Holy poo poo that was lucky. Ambrose Burnside posted:PREHEAT *clap* YOUR *clap* MOULDS A thousand times.
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Jan 13, 2017 03:27
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Spazz posted:I was soaking some parts in white vinegar to remove rust and it looks like it was a little too aggressive and stripped the black oxide coating. These are the tilt and lift adjustments for the arbor on a table saw, so they will remain in a dry environment. The threaded studs are for the fence mounting on the table top. You could also look into having them re-coated with black oxide. I used to work for a company that did that.
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Jan 13, 2017 19:29
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A hot caustic bluing setup shouldn't be too hard to set up at home. I've done it years ago.
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Jan 13, 2017 20:00
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Because I've got a friend who's interested in casting some aluminium and I've never done it, and hey, it's topical- is there much risk of greensand going pop and distributing the molten charge around the shop? My assumption would be that it's gonna be quite safe unless a bug crawls in there or some other weird vehicle for a bunch of non-sand-saturated moisture ends up in the mould.
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Jan 13, 2017 20:07
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Not sure if this belongs in metal or woodworking. It's mainly metalwork, but it's a woodworking tool, a small compass based on John Heisz' own design  
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Jan 13, 2017 21:57
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Someone came into our shop today and sold us some sheet metal tools. Usually people bring in junk they find from when their grandpa was a tool and die maker. Old swaging blocks, a starret mic so old Jesus used it, or a box of "expensive" HSS lathe bits. Once we got a 12 foot long boring bar, another time a hand made dividing head that is a work of art. I noticed some stamping on the tools, and saw this...  All of the blocks and bits all were originally for doing sheet metal on B17 bombers. How loving cool is that? They look ground on and such now, but it's a pretty sweet little collection.
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Jan 14, 2017 01:50
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Yooper posted:Someone came into our shop today and sold us some sheet metal tools. Usually people bring in junk they find from when their grandpa was a tool and die maker. Old swaging blocks, a starret mic so old Jesus used it, or a box of "expensive" HSS lathe bits. Once we got a 12 foot long boring bar, another time a hand made dividing head that is a work of art. How many of those do you have, and would you be willing to mail one to me? My grandpa was a bomber mechanic in the war.
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Jan 14, 2017 09:00
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Lemme look into it. Our maintenance supervisor bought them, if he'll part with one I'll snag it. This was the best looking of the tools, all of the others we're cut or notched or beat up in some odd way.
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Jan 14, 2017 12:48
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So, my dad got me a Harbor Frieght 80 Amp DC Stick Welder for Christmas, instead of the shoddy home made one I'd been playing with. Really like it, doesn't pop breakers, and I can actually carry a bead with it. Granted, I personally suck at it, but hopefully with practice I'll get good enough to do some exhaust repairs for my cars. Gotta find a way to ensure I'm not burning a hole in the metal. Been playing with different rods, want to try something in the 70xx range, right now I'm playing with 6011 and some old Sears Mild Steel rods. Need to invest in a proper auto-darkening helmet, right now I'm using a simple old style full fast mask with a flip down welding glass. 
CommieGIR fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jan 16, 2017 |
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Jan 14, 2017 23:14
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Because I've got a friend who's interested in casting some aluminium and I've never done it, and hey, it's topical- is there much risk of greensand going pop and distributing the molten charge around the shop? My assumption would be that it's gonna be quite safe unless a bug crawls in there or some other weird vehicle for a bunch of non-sand-saturated moisture ends up in the mould. Its ability to do so is just like you said, based on the moisture content. In addition to the green sand, ingots and scrap can get entrapped moisture as well. Lastly, spills on concrete that has entrapped moisture can do the same. Heres a video showing the last one: (@ about 7:30 though the whole video is interesting if you're not familiar with casting.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2FuvKTyRMQ
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Jan 15, 2017 14:11
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CarForumPoster posted:Its ability to do so is just like you said, based on the moisture content. In addition to the green sand, ingots and scrap can get entrapped moisture as well. Lastly, spills on concrete that has entrapped moisture can do the same. Preheat anything you're going to melt by placing it around the opening of the furnace, and then preheat any ingot molds by doing the same thing. Throw down a layer of sand over any surface you're pouring on.
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Jan 15, 2017 18:00
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I have some quenching questions. I've been working pretty steady these past few weeks on knifemaking, and this weekend I had three knives all break during the quench process somehow. What looks easy from the outside suddenly has a million details when you're doing it in person. First, how long should I hold the blade in the quenchant? Until it stops smoking / boiling? A certain amount of time? I know I should only move it in the axis of the blade, not side to side. Second, what do I do if it warps? That's really my problem. I have blades come out warped, and then they snap if you try and fix them. I tried heating and straightening one, and re quenching, and it came out with the exact same warp from the first time. I imagine I need to normalize it more? I've looked up solutions online and I think I will do better next time, but this thread is full of some smart people so I wanted to ask here. If anyone has any links to good discussions of quenching, I'd like to read them.
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Jan 16, 2017 13:11
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Pagan posted:I have some quenching questions. I've been working pretty steady these past few weeks on knifemaking, and this weekend I had three knives all break during the quench process somehow. What looks easy from the outside suddenly has a million details when you're doing it in person. I've not done blades, but I've hardened dressing masters which are a bit thicker. Did you normalize it? Is it a spring steel that may have retained memory? Keep it in the quenchant until it's normalized temps with the quenchant. This is probably overkill but time was never an issue for me. When it warps, temper, rest, temper-soak, and try to straighten it while still hot. Found this on bladeforums : quote:Learning simple straightening practices will help you remove warp. Learning basic HT metallurgy will help you know when you can remove it. There are times when you can easily straighten warp, times when it will laugh at you for trying, and times when it will make you cry.
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Jan 16, 2017 13:29
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Yooper posted:Good advice. In addition to the above, you should also make sure that the quenchant you're using is a) appropriate for the steel you're working with, and b) at a proper temperature. I'd suggest working with oil-quenching steels first to get the hang of things, as water quenches can be tricky even with a lot of practice. You'll want to get your oil up to around 120 degrees Fahrenheit before you quench your knife; the easiest way to do this is to heat up a chunk of rebar or whatever and dunk it first. If your quenchant is cold, stuff is much more likely to warp or crack.
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