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Is it possible to get "curb rash" without actually getting into contact with a curb? I just discovered some rash on my rear driver-side wheel and can't think of how I could have gotten it. It's a new car and I haven't parallel parked on that side yet. Could it be a pothole or road debris that caused it? vvv Thanks, makes me feel a bit better to think that I didn't cause it directly. Hikaki fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jan 14, 2017 |
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Jan 14, 2017 13:43
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Yes it could have. I managed curb rash on 2 wheels, and took a lot of paint off of the side skirts,from running over debris in the road.
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Jan 14, 2017 14:01
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GobiasIndustries posted:I have never done my own oil change, but want to start doing so. 2008 Pontiac G6. I've got a Pittsburgh socket wrench set, screwdrivers, a funnel and plenty of gloves/cloths. I know I'll need a pan to collect the old oil, and probably a jack + jack stands to prop the car up. Anything I'm missing? Did your g6 magically recover?
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Jan 14, 2017 14:23
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Memento posted:There's no probably about jack stands; never get under a car that is just supported on a jack. Oh yeah, the 'probably' was because I don't have a curb or anything I could pop one wheel up on to get space under the car (I'd still prefer the stands). big crush on Chad OMG posted:Did your g6 magically recover? Found a 2008 G6, 100k miles, owned by a mechanic who took it away from his son after his son got a DUI. Fantastic condition other other than tires which I've budgeted for, independent inspection at my mechanic came out clean and the guys at the shop seemed to be impressed with it, for whatever that's worth. GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Jan 14, 2017 |
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Jan 14, 2017 15:46
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How horrible a sin is it to mix CHF power steering fluid with ATF? I just swapped out the steering box on my 1990 Nissan truck, which meant I lost a bit of fluid. The manual says to use Dexron and the system was filled with some kind of ATF, but all I had on hand was a couple of leftover bottles of CHF, so I topped up with that. So now it's a mix of maybe 2/3rds ATF (red stuff) and 1/3rd CHF (green stuff). I haven't driven it as it is still on stands awaiting a steering knuckle, just started the engine and turned it back and forth a couple times to check things out. Googling around provides no significant truthiness. Apparently systems designed for CHF can be damaged by ATF (detergent damaging rubber seals or some such) but what about the opposite? Also, will there be some nasty gunk created by mixing the two types? I can drain and flush and replace with Dexron if need be, but if it doesn't matter (at least not short-term), meh.
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Jan 14, 2017 18:12
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I have a new to me 2007 Honda Accord 5 speed, 2.4l engine, 95k miles, which was purchased at a major dealership slightly less than a month ago. (no warranty, as-is) Since i've had it, the cold start performance after sitting overnight has seemed poor - symptoms that would seem like a weak battery At first I chalked this up to not knowing how long the car was sitting around at the dealer, and how extremely cold it's been lately, not knowing the vehicles history, blah blah blah. After that first start up, the car would start up like a champ until it sat overnight in the cold. I took some long drives and it kinda helped, but not enough, and it seemed particularly weak this morning. I went and looked at the battery terminals today, and there's this brown gunk on the terminals that was deliberately applied by someone. They definitely slathered it on the battery posts before putting the connectors on. Does anyone have any clue what this crap is? Should I clean this stuff off? Is this causing the poor cold start behavior? Should I replace the battery? Thanks, Click for huge  
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Jan 14, 2017 23:52
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Looks like anti-corrosion grease. It's not the source of your problem.
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Jan 14, 2017 23:55
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jan 15, 2017 00:37
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puberty worked me over posted:You need to charge the battery and then load test it to determine if it is working properly. Autozone (or similar) should do this for free, so if someone wants you to pay for it, don't.
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Jan 15, 2017 00:42
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A battery tender is a good investment.
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Jan 15, 2017 01:14
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Yeah, don't get a cheap one that just runs too. They like to overcharge batteries. Are those 25w panels you can throw on the dash any good at floating batteries?
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Jan 15, 2017 01:29
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Does Autozone actually do a load test or do they just put a multimeter on it and call it good enough? Also, I live in an apartment so charging the battery from the wall is not possible. I drove out to a garage that I am able to use for short jobs, and I'm going to clean the terminals, charge the battery for an hour, and use what I think is a more appropriate amount of terminal protector schmoo Will see how it does in the morning
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Jan 15, 2017 01:42
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When I took my dead battery in (when I lived in MI) they charged it then did a load test. I'd assume they all do but call ahead just in case.
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Jan 15, 2017 01:56
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They should have a solid state capacitor load tester to take to your car
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Jan 15, 2017 01:57
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Thanks... well after 15 minutes on the 10 amp setting, the meter on the charger says the battery is taking a touch less than 2 amps in
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Jan 15, 2017 02:05
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Autozone can definitely do a load test with the battery in the car, though their testers do tend to err on the side of replace. Any decent parts store should also be able to pull the battery and test it as well, though you may need the anti theft code for the stereo (if Honda is still doing that by 2007... my 2001 needed it, 07 may have it coded to the car).
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Jan 15, 2017 02:10
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What does a valve stem replacement run? I filled my tires up around 11am and my sensor noted that the back left one was a few psi lower than the rest later in the day. Went to manually check the pressure and heard the hissing as soon as I grabbed the stem to take off the cap. I definitely don't have the tools to take care of this myself.
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Jan 15, 2017 02:28
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You should be able to pull the core and replace it yourself with tire on the car unless the rubber is hosed.
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Jan 15, 2017 02:44
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Christobevii3 posted:You should be able to pull the core and replace it yourself with tire on the car unless the rubber is hosed. When I wiggle the stem I can hear the air coming out, wouldn't that be the rubber?
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Jan 15, 2017 02:47
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Probably dry rotted. Requires wheel off, tire off, and push a new stem from inside. Find the sketchiest tire shop in town with a spray painted sign. $15 to replace, chalk to not require balancing, and enjoy
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Jan 15, 2017 02:57
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Where did you get the tires? May try talking to them first and seeing if they'll handle it as goodwill. You don't want a sketchy shop loving around with anything with TPMS.
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Jan 15, 2017 03:08
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Where did you get the tires? May try talking to them first and seeing if they'll handle it as goodwill. Used car, private seller. The tires are a bit on the worn side which was already factored into the purchase price. The sensor seems to be working perfectly (same psi from the dash as from my digital gauge), does replacing the stem require replacing the sensor as well? e: I used to work in a scrap yard and part of my job was tearing out valve stems from rims, when did these things get so fancy? GobiasIndustries fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jan 15, 2017 |
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Jan 15, 2017 03:25
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Some TPMS sensors have the valve stem as part of the unit.
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Jan 15, 2017 05:04
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Query! I'm replacing the front/passenger side axle on an 05 Saab 9-2x which lived its life 10km from the ocean in eastern Canada (southerners avert your eyes). I figured I'd replace the ball joint while I was down there - there aren't any signs of trouble but the car is 12 years old with 150,000 km of rust on it so I thought "why not" (anyone who lives in a region with road salt knows drat well why not). So it happened, the horizontal bolt that keeps the ball joint in the knuckle twisted clean off (see carnage pics below) - my question now is, can I drive this safely? This is a beater I expect to drive for <1 year or so (it was mainly meant to be a project to learn wrenching on), presumably the forces of rusty hell which caused it to twist off in the first place will also hold it all together - thoughts?  
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Jan 15, 2017 18:01
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Nissan Almera shitheap 03 I've got a noise from the car which speeds up as I speed up, like a fairly gentle "chup chup chup" sound. Just had a bald tyre replaced, got alignment checked and got a nail fixed in the back tyre but the sound is still there. Both front bearings are a few months old, car doesn't seem to slow down when I'm just coasting and the track rod ends, ball joints and anti roll bars dont have any play to them. Disks also seem fine on the front and the back drums would have been recently removed and replaced when I had the handbrake cable fixed. The sound was there prior to the handbrake. Any ideas on what to check for? My only guess is one of the new bearings is already starting to go again. Cheers
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Jan 15, 2017 18:22
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Never trust rust.
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Jan 15, 2017 18:26
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Never trust rust. Yeah I know  I just wanted someone to tell me it was going to be ok.. Drill it out then can I use a bolt + nut (with generous loctite)? edit: drilled out relatively easily! disaster averted! noticed that the ball joint on my tie rod is ripped and covered in grease! poo poo! Niven fucked around with this message at 21:10 on Jan 15, 2017 |
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Jan 15, 2017 18:30
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A LOVELY LAD posted:Nissan Almera shitheap 03 Rotate your tires and see if the noise moves
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Jan 15, 2017 18:37
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Raluek posted:I'd suggest going the other way, if you don't mind (or prefer) the mantrans in traffic, if it's easier to retrofit the "offroad" bits with aftermarket. Easier to buy shocks and tires than do a trans swap. Thanks for everyone's advice, I kept flip flopping back and forth and hearing different opinions helped me figure things out. I definitely prefer manual so I went with this advice and ordered a manual sport edition. Gonna toss on tires and rims day one and can always start adding shocks and lockers down the road.
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Jan 15, 2017 19:50
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I have a 2014 Mazda 3 with 27,000 miles on it, and two front incredibly bald tires. I drive in well-paved suburbia that has gotten snow or ice maybe 3 times in the life of the car. Is this a known thing that manufacturer tires are crap and don't last long? I don't know much about cars, but everything I have googled has indicated that tires should last ~50k miles.
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Jan 16, 2017 15:33
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Rotate your tires. The front's take the bulk of the wear, and not rotating will result in bald fronts. I wouldn't be surprised if the front rims are also dark with brake dust too.
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Jan 16, 2017 15:40
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drat Bananas posted:I have a 2014 Mazda 3 with 27,000 miles on it, and two front incredibly bald tires. I drive in well-paved suburbia that has gotten snow or ice maybe 3 times in the life of the car. Is this a known thing that manufacturer tires are crap and don't last long? I don't know much about cars, but everything I have googled has indicated that tires should last ~50k miles. Did you ever rotate your tires? The tires on the front wheels wear at an accelerated rate, and if not rotated will wear out much sooner than they should while the rear tires will appear to be almost new. Also overall lifespan of tires varies depending on manufacturer, tread pattern and compound as well as how you drive. 50,000 miles is doable on low rolling resistance tires that have tread compound similar to a hockey puck. 30,000 miles out of the OEM supplied tires is fairly reasonable, especially if you never rotated them.
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Jan 16, 2017 15:45
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I was pretty sure we had them rotated about a year ago as part of one of those seasonal-checkup procedures where they do a big checklist of things for one coupon price. But... evidence seems to contradict that, so I guess not. So when I take it in to replace them, should I have them rotate the current back ones to the front, and put the new ones on back? Or just put new on front and be diligent with rotation schedule (7k miles says google)?
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Jan 16, 2017 16:02
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It depends on if the tires are uni or bidirectional. If there is a rotation arrow on the sidewall, then they go front to back only, otherwise they can usually go to opposite corners. The manual should dictate a best practice.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:06
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Okay, I will double check the manual when I get home. Thank you guys for your help!
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Jan 16, 2017 16:08
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drat Bananas posted:Okay, I will double check the manual when I get home. Thank you guys for your help! For front-wheel drive, I generally put the new ones on the front, since that's where I need the best traction. Radials should stay on the same side of the car once they've been driven - they develop a lie to the belts, and reversing them can cause wrinkling and buckling which ruins the tire. Bidirectional means the tread is symmetrical and it can go anywhere on the car and rotate either direction at installation, but once it's going one way it should stay that way.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:24
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Deteriorata posted:For front-wheel drive, I generally put the new ones on the front, since that's where I need the best traction. Radials should stay on the same side of the car once they've been driven - they develop a lie to the belts, and reversing them can cause wrinkling and buckling which ruins the tire. New tires go on the rear, regardless of which wheels do the driving.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:28
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EightBit posted:New tires go on the rear, regardless of which wheels do the driving. I have seen that recommended, to prevent the back end from losing traction in sudden stops, but I prefer better traction in front for better general driving. ABS is present on nearly all cars now and should prevent the rear end skidding out.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:32
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Deteriorata posted:I have seen that recommended, to prevent the back end from losing traction in sudden stops, but I prefer better traction in front for better general driving. ABS is present on nearly all cars now and should prevent the rear end skidding out. Nope. If you have more grip in the front under heavy braking, you can easily swing your rear end end around. ABS and traction control genies can't save your rear end from this simple physical reality. Do you want to stop, or have your computers wasting your grip trying to keep your front end in the front? http://www.tirerack.com/winter/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=52
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Jan 16, 2017 16:36
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Deteriorata posted:I have seen that recommended, to prevent the back end from losing traction in sudden stops, but I prefer better traction in front for better general driving. ABS is present on nearly all cars now and should prevent the rear end skidding out. You're wrong. Terribly, terribly, absolutely wrong. New tires go on the rear. They're the MOST IMPORTANT for control, even on FWD. ABS does nothing for rear skidding, as that's a sideways motion. The rear skids out only when enough of the car's inertia is going sideways. Stopping the wheels spinning doesn't really matter by that point. Please stop giving out wrong, bad information to people here.
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Jan 16, 2017 16:46
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