|
GobiasIndustries posted:Do USB 2.0 ports on a desktop PC provide a standard amperage? I've got 2 small devices that need ~200mA to run, I was wondering if I could power them off the ports of my desktop, it's a Phenom II X4 processor, not sure the exact motherboard right now. USB 2 should handle that fine. Typically most computers push 500mA down USB 2 without additional power.
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 21:54
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 15:17 |
|
|
GobiasIndustries posted:Do USB 2.0 ports on a desktop PC provide a standard amperage? I've got 2 small devices that need ~200mA to run, I was wondering if I could power them off the ports of my desktop, it's a Phenom II X4 processor, not sure the exact motherboard right now. Yeah, you can generally guarantee 500mA @ 5V from any USB port. Edit: but it might only allow 100mA without enumeration HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 10:10 on Jan 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 15, 2017 22:44
|
|
|
I guess it varies between different hardware, but is there an accepted number USB ports to hang from each motherboard header before you're gonna start seeing power delivery going down the pan? I'm thinking of those cheap multi-card readers with 4xUSB, an SD, microSD, memory stick etc etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 07:54
|
|
|
The USB specification only requires 100 mA to be delivered unless the device negotiates for more. Most USB ports these days will supply the full 500 mA, but don’t count on it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 07:59
|
|
|
Something like a card reader is tricky to predict precisely if it's taking power from the USB header, although I would hope and expect that it won't use a substantial amount unless actually accessing a card. Ports shouldn't use any power at all unless they are in use, and even a passive hub from a front bay that turns 2 ports into 4 wouldn't take much. If you start daisy-chaining unpowered hubs I expect that the voltage drop would cause issues before the passive power draw from the hub takes enough current to be noticeable. A lot of desktops and some more recent laptops have a feature to deliver more power from some or all of the ports than the 500mA allowed by USB1/2 spec or 900mA allowed by USB3, so I would definitely check into that if this is a practical and not academic query. For example, some recent NUCs have a yellow USB3 port that can provide up to 1500mA.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 08:07
|
|
|
My computer can't play witcher 3 Vaio unibody desktop SVL241290X Core i7 3630 2.4 ghz 16gb ram Can the CPU be upgraded or am I just SOL
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 16:21
|
|
|
FizFashizzle posted:My computer can't play witcher 3 Your CPU isn't the absolute latest, but it's not slow enough to be the problem; it'll almost certainly be lovely graphics that's the problem, and with an all-in-one, there's little hope of upgrading the GPU... Might want to find out what graphics actually are in the machine already though, just so we know. Try running Speccy, makes this easy.. HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Jan 16, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 16:25
|
|
|
Yeah I found a picture of the motherboard for that machine, and the CPU is socketed so in theory any CPU in the same family with a similar TDP should be fine. HalloKitty is right though: it's likely the graphics chip that'll hold you back. Just get a PS4 at that point.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 16:28
|
|
|
Sigh. Oh well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 16:31
|
|
|
My friend gave me his old RAM when he upgraded. My current RAM The RAM he gave me Can I combine this new RAM with the old and have a total of 24GB? or do I need to use just the ones he gave me and go to 16GB?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 19:09
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:My friend gave me his old RAM when he upgraded. You can use all 24GB but it'll run at 1600MHz by default.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 19:18
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:My friend gave me his old RAM when he upgraded. If you use all 24 GB at once, it will operate as slowly as the first 8 GB of sticks do. If you use just the newer 16 GB, you will be able to use their full speed. The faster speed would really help in many recent games like Fallout 4 and GTA V that benefit a lot from increased memory speeds, but if you're doing things that need a lot of RAM but aren't gaming, you might be fine with just having a whole 24 GB of RAM that operates slower.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 19:24
|
|
|
It's a gaming PC and not much else, so I think I'll just use the 16gb then. Thanks
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 20:21
|
|
|
I'm kinda bad at explaining, but here goes. I have 2x GTX980 in SLI and I use a projector as my computer screen. This projector wants (prefers maybe) a HDMI connection, the other day I got VR googles (Oculus) that also want the HDMI connection. I was hoping to have both things at the same time, so i popped the projector into the HDMI port on the second 980 with the VR in the first 980, but nothing happens then. Is there a way to do this with HDMI cables and have both at the same time? edit: OS is windows 10
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 11:57
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:It's a gaming PC and not much else, so I think I'll just use the 16gb then. Thanks What motherboard do you have? Your motherboard might not support the highest speed that the RAM your friend gave you is capable of, and will run at same speed of your original RAM, or only slightly faster.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 12:10
|
|
|
Dongattack posted:I'm kinda bad at explaining, but here goes. I assume your implication here is that you only have one HDMI port per card? I am pretty sure that you should be able to plug HDMI into the second card and have it work. I'm like 90% sure you can do it with DisplayPort at least, because I read that's how you do SLI Surround setups nowadays. Maybe it just wasn't recognizing it right, did you try a restart with it plugged in? Have you tried disabling SLI and seeing if it runs at the desktop? As far as I know, not too many VR games actually support SLI/CrossFire. Moving on to plan B: DVI is basically HDMI (minus some differences in resolution support at the bleeding edges), so you should be able to get a cheap DVI-to-HDMI adapter and plug your projector into that. Plan C: DisplayPort can also feed HDMI devices with a passive adapter. It's your choice either way but sometimes [edit:Dual-]Mode DisplayPort can be a little finicky about recognizing so I'd go with DVI first. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jan 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 15:36
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:I assume your implication here is that you only have one HDMI port per card? Yes! Thank you, I got it to work with the help of your post, I followed your suggestions in order: I tried restarting the computer with the projector plugged into the second SLI card, but nothing happened. Then I tried disabling SLI, but no dice. However while i was there i noticed a option that seemed like it was relevant, "Span displays with Surround". I set SLI to do that and the projector came alive, but in the end I couldn't get it to work right and went back to "Maximize 3D performance". When i did that the projector continues to work. I don't know why, feels like the second GPU needed a reminder of what it could do or something, but now it works at least.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2017 16:50
|
|
|
Stupid question: when you go to install a CPU, do you just gently place the processor on top of the socket and then close the latch and lock it into place? Or are you you supposed to place it on the socket then push it down, then secure it? I finally got the RMA for my motherboard that has been giving me issues for over a month. When I installed the CPU the first time I did the former -- just gently placed it "on top" of the socket, and now I've been wondering if I installed it wrong and damaged something the first time  Intel, if that makes a difference. I've never built an AMD computer. Sab669 fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Jan 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 01:01
|
|
|
Sab669 posted:Stupid question: when you go to install a CPU, do you just gently place the processor on top of the socket and then close the latch and lock it into place? Or are you you supposed to place it on the socket then push it down, then secure it? You just put it in the socket, no pushing down (the retention bracket closing will do that). Just make sure the keying is correct (little plastic nubs in the socket that prevent it from being out of place or in the wrong orientation). There's a triangle marked on the corner of the CPU that goes to the marked corner on the socket to help get the correct orientation as well.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 01:09
|
|
|
OK that's what I thought, but just one of those things where you doubt yourself and then will never remember  just been afraid that I might've damaged the CPU/Mobo and my claim wouldn't be covered by the warranty. Can't wait to go home and rebuild my computer. It's been way too long to go without one.Edit: Oh my god it feels so good to have everything back 
Sab669 fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jan 18, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 01:15
|
|
|
teagone posted:What motherboard do you have? Your motherboard might not support the highest speed that the RAM your friend gave you is capable of, and will run at same speed of your original RAM, or only slightly faster. ASRock H97M Pro4 Looks like it only supports up to 1600. Guess I'll use all 24gb then! Really wish I could afford to upgrade my PC 
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 05:03
|
|
|
Schroeder91 posted:ASRock H97M Pro4 Ehh, at least you have 24GB of DDR3 now! DDR3 RAM is relatively expensive to come by these days. I only have 8GB of DDR3 1600 I did upgrade my videocard to a GTX 1060 6GB though, and am still stuck with my Core i5 4570. If Ryzen turns out to be good and cheap, I might make the jump back to an AMD CPU/mainboard for my next upgrade.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 05:30
|
|
|
Rexxed posted:You just put it in the socket, no pushing down (the retention bracket closing will do that). Just make sure the keying is correct (little plastic nubs in the socket that prevent it from being out of place or in the wrong orientation). There's a triangle marked on the corner of the CPU that goes to the marked corner on the socket to help get the correct orientation as well. Does anyone else place the CPU into the socket and then give it a little 1mm lateral wiggle to make sure it's seated before closing the clasp? Am I alone in being a little wiggler??
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 07:08
|
|
|
I think that's my method, now that we've moved to LGA Used to be they'd just fall in the socket, but that hasn't been the case for a while now...unless you go AMD!
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 08:17
|
|
|
apropos man posted:Does anyone else place the CPU into the socket and then give it a little 1mm lateral wiggle to make sure it's seated before closing the clasp? Nope, I'm a wiggler as well, although I don't think there's 1mm of slop in the socket, maybe .5mm. Crossing my fingers, but I've never hosed up an LGA socket yet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 14:26
|
|
|
apropos man posted:Does anyone else place the CPU into the socket and then give it a little 1mm lateral wiggle to make sure it's seated before closing the clasp? I twist the heatsink a little once it is clamped on, to spread the thermal paste a bit more.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 18:23
|
|
|
I have an old Thinkpad that I want to add a (low profile) WiFi adapter to. Is there any problem with putting a modern adapter into what's probably USB 1.1 at best? Any problems with power delivery on USB 1.1 that might hurt transmit power? It'll be running under Linux. Is there a chipset that's better supported/more featured than others? Especially around things like promiscuous mode/etc.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 20:20
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:I have an old Thinkpad that I want to add a (low profile) WiFi adapter to. Is there any problem with putting a modern adapter into what's probably USB 1.1 at best? Any problems with power delivery on USB 1.1 that might hurt transmit power? Does your ThinkPad not have a PCMCIA slot? That'd be the way to go if it has one, there's tons of 802.11n cards out there and you won't need to worry about compatibility. Otherwise, many of those adapters won't function properly without a full USB 2.0 port. This can range from not operating at all, to unstable connections, to just having terrible signal transmit/receive. You'll probably need to research each individual device you're considering to try to figure out if it's compatible with USB 1.1
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2017 23:59
|
|
|
fishmech posted:Does your ThinkPad not have a PCMCIA slot? That'd be the way to go if it has one, there's tons of 802.11n cards out there and you won't need to worry about compatibility. It does, I was just hoping to avoid that. It'll be higher-profile, more expensive, and I worry about compatibility problems. But if USB isn't going to work, it isn't going to work. Oh well, I had suspicions it might not work well, thanks for saving me  .It's a model A21e, so it has a Type III slot that (thankfully) appears to support both 16-bit and 32-bit cards. I found an IBM 802.11 a/b/g card (FRU 31P9101) appears to be compatible ("PC Card Std slots: 1 Type I, 1 Type II, or 1 Type III / CardBus 32-bit / PCMCIA 2.1 / no Zoomed Video"), so I threw one on order. It cost almost as much as I've spent on the rest of the project to date. Sadly no option for an RP-SMA external, but I couldn't find any cards with that at all. It is an Atheros chipset of some kind, though, which are supposedly one of the better ones for Linux compatibility. Is there a technical difference between "32-bit PC Card/PCMCIA Type III" and "Cardbus"? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jan 19, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 03:18
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:It does, I was just hoping to avoid that. It'll be higher-profile, more expensive, and I worry about compatibility problems. But if USB isn't going to work, it isn't going to work. Oh well, I had suspicions it might not work well, thanks for saving me CardBus means its of pretty much the last common PCMCIA card type - 32 bit, 33 MHz PCI bus based. Older plain pre-version 5.0 PCMCIA cards used a modified 16 bit version of the ISA bus. Type II and Type III refer mainly to the size of the slots, CardBus/32 bit cards were available that were in either the smaller type II or larger type III size. A typical example of a Type III card would be those "realport" network cards that had a full size ethernet or modem port on the end, without need to stick out much or have a dongle attached. Usually the card bay can fit two Type II cards at once, or one Type III.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 03:33
|
|
|
I bought windows 8, OEM version, and upgraded to windows 10 free. If I get a new motherboard and CPU, am I going to have to buy windows again?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 05:21
|
|
|
Yeah. Windows will recognize the new mobo as a new computer.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 14:56
|
|
|
OEM just means you have no customer support and will have to register your license manually via Microsoft's telephone registration system.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 15:05
|
|
|
Orange Sunshine posted:I bought windows 8, OEM version, and upgraded to windows 10 free. However if you tie your digital license for Windows 10 to a Microsoft account now, transfer to a new computer should be possible through the activation troubleshooter later. A change of motherboard as well as having a digital license (formerly know as digital entitlement aka what you get from the free upgrade) are explicitly mentioned there.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 15:42
|
|
|
I have two hard drives in my current PC, one with Windows 8.1 and one for data. I'm going to build a new PC and put Windows 10 on a new drive in it. Is it at all straightforward to then attach the old Windows 8.1 drive to the new PC and treat it like a data drive, accessing files on it without booting from it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2017 04:20
|
|
|
unexplodable posted:I have two hard drives in my current PC, one with Windows 8.1 and one for data. I'm going to build a new PC and put Windows 10 on a new drive in it. Is it at all straightforward to then attach the old Windows 8.1 drive to the new PC and treat it like a data drive, accessing files on it without booting from it? Yes, simply attach it as you'd attach any other secondary drive, after you already set up Windows 10 on a new drive.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2017 04:31
|
|
|
fishmech posted:Yes, simply attach it as you'd attach any other secondary drive, after you already set up Windows 10 on a new drive. Great, thanks!
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2017 04:33
|
|
|
Eletriarnation posted:Get one that claims a sine wave or "pure" (not simulated) sine wave output. I use this one. Notice how it says 1000VA/600W; this is because power supplies without Active PFC (as well as some other appliances, I think laser printers are infamous for this) will draw more power from the lines than they actually consume, so the VA measurement indicates how much power can be drawn and the W measurement is how much can be consumed. With Active PFC, you don't really have to care about that because the numbers are within 1% or so of each other. But I guess I need to buy a new UPS anyways? I'm using a UPS because the electricity at my house is pretty unreliable and I was afraid that it would damage my PSU over time. So would buying this fix my problem? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_nPTEybD6K92C5?th=1 Automata 10 Pack fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jan 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2017 05:23
|
|
|
Yeah, the 750W is a limit and not a static value. If you have a 275W 980Ti, a 100W processor, and 75W of other poo poo in your computer on a 90% efficient supply then it will only draw 500W from the wall/UPS even if it's rated for twice that. If your current UPS is a simulated sine model and you plan on buying a new power supply with active PFC, then you should get something like that. You could maybe get away with a 600W model, but 900W will be less likely to crap out on you while you're redlining it playing games or something - especially since I assume you have at least one monitor plugged into it too. (e: That 810W model should be totally fine too, although it'll only save you $20.) Eletriarnation fucked around with this message at 05:52 on Jan 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2017 05:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 15:17 |
|
|
Wondering if anyone has ran into this issue. Background, I have two 16:10 Dell monitors daisy chained with display port. My PC boots fine I see the post screen then the windows logo and then my monitors lose signal right as windows loads. If I turn them both off and on again they start working. Any loving clue what is happening?
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2017 21:01
|
|