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DoLittle posted:It is not very good in freezing conditions because the heated air can only be directed trough two circular outlets on top of and/or below the dashboard. The air vents at the both ends of the dashboard are only for cold air and they are directly connected to the fresh air inlet in front of the windshield. There are these plastic flaps that can close the vents, but they always leak and there is no way to direct heated air to them. So it takes really long time to melt left and right edges of the windshield and the side windows. They also tend freeze again while driving if passengers speak or breath too much. Cool. My only hope is that they don't shoot up in prices while I sort out other things. Can't really justify getting one right now.
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Jan 16, 2017 09:37
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In my car there is no heat or noise insulation either, which makes it a bit worse.
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MrOnBicycle posted:Cool. My only hope is that they don't shoot up in prices while I sort out other things. Can't really justify getting one right now. A Group 4 Turbodelta style series 1 GTV with a turbo 4-cyl would be very cool in my opinion. I would even have a spare 75 Turbo engine for the purpose: 
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Jan 16, 2017 20:29
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I did truck stuff...
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Jan 16, 2017 21:03
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DoLittle posted:A Group 4 Turbodelta style series 1 GTV with a turbo 4-cyl would be very cool in my opinion. I would even have a spare 75 Turbo engine for the purpose:  
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Jan 16, 2017 21:06
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http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfa-romeo-cars-sale-wanted/549713-nice-1976-alfetta-gt.html + http://www.autodelta.info/product-page/ba1fa75c-c366-e965-8384-0b33dec56d40 +  + http://www.autodelta.info/product-page/690b276a-0872-d7d4-b76a-06ecb3deff4b Richard Melvin can also supply all the parts: http://www.artracing.co.uk/ It is his street "turbodelta" in my previous post. He also has genuine Group 2 Alfetta GTV and a Group A GTV6. DoLittle fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Jan 16, 2017 |
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Jan 16, 2017 21:25
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A buddy of mine helped me out with hinging the fenders on my trailer (they now hinge either direction or come off completely), and built a stand with a hitch receiver for my 12k HF winch. I am much excite! I can haul so much more junk now!
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Jan 16, 2017 22:26
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DoLittle posted:http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/alfa-romeo-cars-sale-wanted/549713-nice-1976-alfetta-gt.html  Holy poo poo. I knew I wanted an Alfa but I didn't know I wanted to build one of these.
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Jan 16, 2017 22:49
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DoLittle posted:A Group 4 Turbodelta style series 1 GTV with a turbo 4-cyl would be very cool in my opinion. I would even have a spare 75 Turbo engine for the purpose: So that's how they get me to buy a GTV. Very clever, Alfisti.
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Jan 17, 2017 04:48
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Cool as the 4-cyl can be, I have my heart set on the Busso V6 because my god does it sound great and I've never owned anything with more than 4 cylinders: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTqX0J6Dp5g
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Jan 17, 2017 10:04
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MrOnBicycle posted:Cool as the 4-cyl can be, I have my heart set on the Busso V6 because my god does it sound great and I've never owned anything with more than 4 cylinders: Better video by far man https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7nacFjssVo
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Jan 17, 2017 16:04
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For proper noise you should be looking at these: http://www.ahmotorsports.co.uk/product/ahm-v6-throttle-body-kit/ A local guy has a stock 3.2 24v V6, those and an aftermarket ecu. He claims 318 hp at crank. And a video of proper engine noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IE365Ns7C_0
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Jan 17, 2017 17:21
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NitroSpazzz posted:I did truck stuff... angryrobots posted:A buddy of mine helped me out with hinging the fenders on my trailer (they now hinge either direction or come off completely), and built a stand with a hitch receiver for my 12k HF winch.
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Jan 17, 2017 18:45
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ExecuDork posted:I'm honestly just curious: why do you need the ability to quickly get your trailer's fenders out of the way? I'm assuming you need to have fenders on your trailer because open wheels are prohibited, and to stop road grime from getting flung up onto whatever's on the trailer, but it's not obvious to me what problem you can solve by taking them off. I was kinda wondering that too. I'm guessing it will make pulling the wheels off (and thereby all other wheel related maintenance) that much less of a pain in the rear end by having the fenders not getting all up in your poo poo. Trailers I've seen usually have the fenders pretty close to the tops of the tires.
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Jan 17, 2017 18:54
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You can load wider stuff without worrying about bending the fenders up.
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Jan 17, 2017 21:15
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Also, if you put a car on the trailer, sometimes getting fenders out of the way will let you open the door on the car.
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Jan 17, 2017 21:35
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ExecuDork posted:I'm honestly just curious: why do you need the ability to quickly get your trailer's fenders out of the way? Hm, I suppose I should have explained it better, but the other replies pretty much covered it. Even something like a full size truck is close on the fenders, and if running wider wheels/tires it wouldn't fit between to load up. Being able to open a car door was another issue, but so far everything I've had on it did clear if barely. Basically I'm trying to do everything with one trailer. Most would get a deck-over, but then you have the problem of trying to load a small car, and it either can't get up the ramp without hitting up front, or high-centers on the dovetail. This trailer is rated relatively HD for a car trailer (10k lbs), but is low so I can haul a car, or now a wide truck or piece of equipment.
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Jan 18, 2017 05:17
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Broke 160k. Bought it a little over 60k. Not the highest mileage I've ever had on a car by a long shot. But it's the most miles I've put on a single car myself. Also the longest I've ever owned one car.
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Jan 18, 2017 07:30
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ExecuDork posted:Did those tie-down points on the outside of the bed come with the truck, or did you add them? I'd like to add something similar to my Ranger, I've tied a pile of somewhat-loose stuff down with a big cheap cargo net and there aren't that many good places to hook on to (rust holes notwithstanding). Those came on the truck, they were fairly common on older trucks and are amazingly useful. I'm not sure what the max load on the hooks are but they make tying things down fast and easy. I hadn't used a net until that picture but I'll be keeping at least one in the truck at all times from now on.
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Jan 18, 2017 12:30
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Changed the oil in the wife's Elantra. The C5 had been cranking slowly for a while, and was dead the other day after only being off the tender for 2 weeks. So I picked up a new battery. The PO put one in from Autozone with a 3 year warranty 2.5 years ago, but of course the warranty doesn't transfer. At least I had a 40% off code, so it wasn't too pricey. Need to pick up a second tender so I don't have to move it back and forth between the C5 and the bike during the winter.
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Jan 21, 2017 23:48
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I replaced a blown fuse. My '97 Ranger's windshield wiper fluid wasn't squirting, which I assumed was caused by frozen summer bugsquirt juice in the reservoir (pink slush). It's been unseasonably warm lately, above freezing, so I thought today would be a good day to test that idea. A bit of googling and I discovered there's a 10A fuse that is on the circuit for both the wiper fluid pump and the power windows - and I'd noticed my windows weren't even trying to go down, again thinking that had something to do with ice. I pulled every fuse I could find, in the power distribution box first (because I'm dumb and didn't think to look for the inside-the-cab fuse panel first) and checked each one individually. Sure enough, fuse #12 inside was popped. A quick trip to Crappy Tire and that problem is solved - and I can squirt the remaining summer bugsquirt out, though it shouldn't freeze now because my first 'attempt' at a fix for that issue was to dump in a bunch of winter -45 C fluid and it's certainly all mixed now. But, because I checked every fuse, a bunch of things got a bit confused. The "4LO" light is blinking in a set pattern, 6 times every 2 minutes, which google and various Ford forums tells me is a problem with the transfer case. And there's no clunk sound when I switch between drive modes, so I know it's not engaging 4WD in either HI or LO. Lots of stories of this issue online end with "it was the fuse" so I'm optimistic that all I need to do is re-check that one fuse - maybe I didn't push it in correctly when I was playing around under there? Or it blew because I'd handled it? Whatever, it's dark now and that's an easy thing to do tomorrow in the daylight.
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Jan 22, 2017 00:40
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On the new-to-me Fit: * Replaced the stupid skull shift knob with a plain black one with red engraved shift pattern * Replaced the PO's homemade SRI (  ) with a DC Sports SRI* Converted the dash to accept a DIN deck * Installed an Alpine non-disc / bluetooth receiver * Diagnosed an awful road-speed-related grinding / shaking that developed in the front end on my way home  3 of 4 lug nuts on the front driver's side wheel were missing I replaced all 16 lug nuts, hand-torqued them all twice. Might be the scariest thing I've ever seen on one of my own cars. 
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Jan 22, 2017 06:03
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Today's car poo poo: Not specifically my ride (tho it's fun to stand on the turntables). I'm so goddamn close to being able to do my own alignments...
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Jan 22, 2017 06:08
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Moved my engine watchdog temp sensor to an actually-contacting-coolant position instead just connecting it to the fan shroud bolt near the hot pipe. Changed oil and filter Changed coolant Went to change fuel filter and have no idea how they got the Phillips head driven hose clamp on the bottom barb fitting so I didn't bother. Broke some bolts that hold my tail lights in 
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Jan 22, 2017 08:01
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Straightened out the air drat. The center section was pushed in about 3 inches on the right, making it not line up with the right air dam. Pulled it off, looks like the PO rammed a parking block or something, the whole metal bracket was pretty mangled. Banged it back into straight enough shape to look good enough. Dunno if I'll bother getting a new one until this one gets worse, they are kind of sacrificial anyway.
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Jan 22, 2017 20:21
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Went out and looked for a vacuum leak in the A4 but it was -3C and loving every loving part looked brittle as only VAG parts go. Gave up instantly, I'm not going to spend time searching for leaks worrying about making more problems when its all going to turn to dust and shreds soon- I'm going to buy up some suitable hose and a bunch of check valves and go in with the intention of replacing the lot.
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Jan 22, 2017 20:49
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Beat the poo poo out of a wheel bearing getting it out on my rust belt truck yesterday. Sacrificed a 24mm CrMo impact socket (no press) to repeated hits with a hand sledge knocking the fucker out. I did the other front bearing a couple months ago and it left me exhausted just like this one. The socket is about a 1/2" shorter now than the smaller 22mm from the set.  Buy a press, kids. 
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Jan 22, 2017 22:07
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Larrymer posted:Beat the poo poo out of a wheel bearing getting it out on my rust belt truck yesterday. Sacrificed a 24mm CrMo impact socket (no press) to repeated hits with a hand sledge knocking the fucker out. I did the other front bearing a couple months ago and it left me exhausted just like this one. The socket is about a 1/2" shorter now than the smaller 22mm from the set. Or just use a chisel and hit the corners turning the wheel bearing till it's loose then repeat on another corner in the opposite direction. Or if you have an air hammer do the same and they come right out. I do this on rust belt plow chebys of the same era as that one. Works all the time. And if you are fighting that bearing out replace it. And I vastly choose the hammer and chisel method over air hammer. Mostly because it's easy to eat up the metal on the bearing housing.
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Jan 22, 2017 22:59
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clam ache posted:Or just use a chisel and hit the corners turning the wheel bearing till it's loose then repeat on another corner in the opposite direction. Or if you have an air hammer do the same and they come right out. I do this on rust belt plow chebys of the same era as that one. Works all the time. And if you are fighting that bearing out replace it. And I vastly choose the hammer and chisel method over air hammer. Mostly because it's easy to eat up the metal on the bearing housing. I have some air tools, but not the ones that count. The whole point of pulling that was to replace it. No way I'd put that bastard back in after the beating it took.
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Jan 23, 2017 14:17
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Got in a little fender bender, oops. Driving to work this morning and everyone gets on their brakes all at once. I thought for sure it was going to be a 10 car sandwich but somehow it was just me hitting the guy in front of me and two other separate cars hitting. Only visible damage was my hood wind deflector, which got a crack in it. Guy seemed was as cool as can be considering it was all 100% my fault. 
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Jan 23, 2017 15:25
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Larrymer posted:I have some air tools, but not the ones that count. Buy an air hammer. Because sitting for twenty mins waiting for the compressor to fill up is better than 20 minutes abusing your body. Also I always tell people to replace it. And still have people call me a week later asking why the bearing they used again is now howling. 
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Jan 23, 2017 15:46
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clam ache posted:Buy an air hammer. Because sitting for twenty mins waiting for the compressor to fill up is better than 20 minutes abusing your body. Also I always tell people to replace it. And still have people call me a week later asking why the bearing they used again is now howling. Why would you remove a bearing like that if not to replace it? There's nothing behind it other than the knuckle it's in, is there?
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Jan 23, 2017 15:58
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HandlingByJebus posted:On the new-to-me Fit: Are you saying 3 lugnuts were missing? Seriously
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Jan 23, 2017 17:26
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Larrymer posted:Beat the poo poo out of a wheel bearing getting it out on my rust belt truck yesterday. Sacrificed a 24mm CrMo impact socket (no press) to repeated hits with a hand sledge knocking the fucker out. I did the other front bearing a couple months ago and it left me exhausted just like this one. The socket is about a 1/2" shorter now than the smaller 22mm from the set. Can confirm, spent way too many hours trying to get them out of rotors. Will be buying one the second I buy a house.
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Jan 23, 2017 17:50
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Seminal Flu posted:Why would you remove a bearing like that if not to replace it? There's nothing behind it other than the knuckle it's in, is there? Nope. I like how easy to replace (relatively) the GM bearings are. 3-4 bolts and if not rusty they pop out pretty easily. Probably would have been easier to leave it attached to the control arms and pound out but I didn't want to gently caress up my new ball joints (since they're riveted in and hard to get out if damaged. I just did that job by replacing upper and lower control arms...) Originally there was a cap over the back of the bearing, but that sheet metal got bent after the first swing and pried off.
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Jan 23, 2017 17:58
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What was the cost of the whole assembly compared to the bearing? When I did my 2500HD it was only $66 off eBay with the bonus of a new abs sensor.
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Jan 23, 2017 18:18
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Seminal Flu posted:Why would you remove a bearing like that if not to replace it? There's nothing behind it other than the knuckle it's in, is there? I don't ask idiots why's there idiots most time. Just tell them to stop and why. Where they go from there is there choice. I work at a small local shop that has plenty of customers come in and ask me poo poo. I also am known at the two parts stores I frequent and get stopped by employees and shade tree mechanics with questions. So yes your correct but stupid is as stupid does. Edit: also this is the easy way to fix a chooched front axle on 4wd. Pull bearing pop axle install new axle and bearing. Or shade tree that poo poo and don't. I always sell a bearing with a busted axle. clam ache fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Jan 23, 2017 |
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Jan 23, 2017 21:02
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slothrop posted:Are you saying 3 lugnuts were missing? Seriously Yes. Seriously. I found splits in two others that hadn't come off. Replaced all 16 and have hand-torqued them three times now.
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Jan 23, 2017 21:19
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Im interested to know how you managed to inspect a car for purchase and miss that it has 3 missing lug nuts. or did they fall off at some point after purchase?
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Jan 24, 2017 00:18
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Laserface posted:Im interested to know how you managed to inspect a car for purchase and miss that it has 3 missing lug nuts. They were not missing when I bought the car. They were not missing when I took the wheels off and rotated the mismatched tire to the rear. They were not missing when I put the wheels back on. Looks like I managed to damage them when installing them? Because I torqued them to ~90 lbs-ft after taking the car off the lift. Like I said above, I found a couple with stress cracks in their bodies, so probably they weren't appropriate for the wheels or the car. They were some weirdo six-spline "tuner" (cheap as poo poo) lug nuts.
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Jan 24, 2017 00:34
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clam ache posted:Edit: also this is the easy way to fix a chooched front axle on 4wd. Pull bearing pop axle install new axle and bearing. Or shade tree that poo poo and don't. I always sell a bearing with a busted axle. Gotcha. I wasn't thinking about 4wd, and I would never think of re-using a bearing in that case. See, I like my cars.
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Jan 24, 2017 00:35
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