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signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting

JackMann posted:

In addition to weathering, you could cut out a rectangle of paper and fold it to look like a magazine or newspaper. Either freehand some stuff on it, or print something out in the right size before cutting it out. Wet it and then set it with some white glue and it should look about right.

Just normal printer paper? Would heavier stock work better?

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Broguts
Oct 16, 2014

signalnoise posted:

Just normal printer paper? Would heavier stock work better?

What you could do is water down some PVA glue and spread that on the paper. That will probably make it hold together a bit better and it will help the soggy magazine look.

JcDent
May 13, 2013

Give me a rifle, one round, and point me at Berlin!
So I might be painting Sigmarines soon. Can anyone advise me on an easy todo color scheme that's not Boring Official Sigmarine Gold, Silver Sigmarine or Pre-Heresy Deathguard? I'm getting a lot of mileage out of basecoat white, slather in sepia, highlight poo poo in white in DG and I wonder if there are similar easy options.

Our hobby store already has purplish Sigmarines and I don't think I can do red ones without looking like khornate stuff, even if Bluhd Ravens and Heresy Blood Angels look p. sweet.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Duct Tape posted:

Will that work for really small contact points? This is the set I'm working on (not my picture), and those legs are about 2-3 millimeters wide. That guy in the middle/front has an arm that's only about 1mm thick. Bit worried about accidentally punching a hole through their tiny, tiny legs.


I glue all of mine to the plain base, prime and paint them, and then when I'm done I snap them off and do the base and then glue them back together when it's done.

If those are plastic models just glue them straight, they're light enough that the glue will hold. If they're metal then fashion part of the bar holding the feet in place into a pin rather than trying to drill a tiny foot.

JackMann
Aug 11, 2010

Secure. Contain. Protect.
Fallen Rib

signalnoise posted:

Just normal printer paper? Would heavier stock work better?

It might look too thick to "sell" the illusion that it's newspaper. Some white glue and the paper should behave as you need, even with printer paper.

Thicker cardstock can work pretty well for cloth, though.



The banner on the front of this flag is made from a strip from a 3x5 card with a piece of printer paper glued to the front of it. It looks even better in person, because then you can see the frayed edges give it a more fabric-like texture.

Frobbe
Jan 19, 2007

Calm Down


My first lil' panzers! WIP shot, as all the more intricate detail is still to be done, but i like my camo. At first i had painted it way too "hard" but a drybrush of the base yellow fixed that right up!

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting
Followup for the painting workshop questions- Materials..

What brushes should I have available? Like, this is all coming out of a budget when it comes to brushes, but I was thinking 0,1,2 rounds made of something better than golden taklon, but cheap enough to throw away at the end of the day really. Anyone got any ideas for decent enough brushes I can buy in bulk in the US? I want something cheap enough to throw away but not frustrating to use.

As far as paint, I don't really know how I should go about that. I was thinking about buying a few sets of some basic colors, and putting them into tiny tiny dropper bottles that I could leave at the stations. Minitaire maybe? Has their stuff gotten any better?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

signalnoise posted:

Followup for the painting workshop questions- Materials..

What brushes should I have available? Like, this is all coming out of a budget when it comes to brushes, but I was thinking 0,1,2 rounds made of something better than golden taklon, but cheap enough to throw away at the end of the day really. Anyone got any ideas for decent enough brushes I can buy in bulk in the US? I want something cheap enough to throw away but not frustrating to use.

As far as paint, I don't really know how I should go about that. I was thinking about buying a few sets of some basic colors, and putting them into tiny tiny dropper bottles that I could leave at the stations. Minitaire maybe? Has their stuff gotten any better?

For brushes, these or these seem to have decent reviews. To be honest though, for a starter class, you might just want to consider dropping it to one brush, like a #1. It's big enough to paint a human figure, and small enough to get decent detail. You're just teaching the basics, right? You don't want to overwhelm people with a plethora of brushes.

As for paints, you might want to get one set and use palettes instead - it will reduce your costs significantly and will teach your students how to properly thin paints from the get go.

I don't know if you're charging for this, but you may want to consider one of the all-in-one starter paint sets like the Army Painter set, since they come with paints, a wash, and a brush. It's under $25, and your students can take everything home with them. You might be able to cut a deal with your local hobby store as well, since business should pick up for them after your class.

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting

berzerkmonkey posted:

I don't know if you're charging for this, but you may want to consider one of the all-in-one starter paint sets like the Army Painter set, since they come with paints, a wash, and a brush. It's under $25, and your students can take everything home with them. You might be able to cut a deal with your local hobby store as well, since business should pick up for them after your class.

I'm not sure if we're charging yet. This is still in formative stages. I'm gonna try talking with Reaper about a paint-and-take today and see what they have to say about it. Maybe they'll supply us with paint? who knows

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

signalnoise posted:

I'm not sure if we're charging yet. This is still in formative stages. I'm gonna try talking with Reaper about a paint-and-take today and see what they have to say about it. Maybe they'll supply us with paint? who knows

That might be a good idea, since they have the Bones paint sets as well. If nothing else, maybe they can give you a discount.

theroachman
Sep 1, 2006

You're never fully dressed without a smile...
Throwing all those brushes out after one day of use sounds like a waste. Take a little time to teach people how to properly care for their brush. Also I would personally like to have the option to buy and take home the stuff I used in the class, be it brushes, paint, miniatures or other materials.

vvvv Even better!

theroachman fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jan 19, 2017

signalnoise
Mar 7, 2008

i was told my old av was distracting
You're right, if I'm going to throw away anything I might as well let people take it home for free.

PantsOptional
Dec 27, 2012

All I wanna do is make you bounce

JcDent posted:

So I might be painting Sigmarines soon. Can anyone advise me on an easy todo color scheme that's not Boring Official Sigmarine Gold, Silver Sigmarine or Pre-Heresy Deathguard? I'm getting a lot of mileage out of basecoat white, slather in sepia, highlight poo poo in white in DG and I wonder if there are similar easy options.

Our hobby store already has purplish Sigmarines and I don't think I can do red ones without looking like khornate stuff, even if Bluhd Ravens and Heresy Blood Angels look p. sweet.

I'm somewhat partial to the Celestial Vindicators scheme laid out in the book, demonstrated here:

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



No, take everything from them including their painted mini and toss it all in a fire. Let them know that miniature painting is a fool's game.

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

PantsOptional posted:

I'm somewhat partial to the Celestial Vindicators scheme laid out in the book, demonstrated here:


That model looks so dumb

Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.

Cat Face Joe posted:

No, take everything from them including their painted mini and toss it all in a fire. Let them know that miniature painting is a fool's game.
^^^ This. It's too late for us, but they can still save themselves.

PantsOptional
Dec 27, 2012

All I wanna do is make you bounce

Phi230 posted:

That model looks so dumb

Oh, the model itself is totally stupid, but the paint scheme (dark teal with white and gold) is a welcome change from the gold-and-blue standard line.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~
I had a load of fun weathering up this Land Raider Armored Proteus, AKA the most World War I tank ever made after World War I:









I'm playing a game this weekend, and I found I was in need of more Fantasy-appropriate terrain, so I painted up a set of walls and fences! There's some State Troops in there for scale:




A cheeky little Gobbo:

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods
That all looks amazing, I'm super jealous of your tank weathering and the wood-grain on those trees and fences.

Cross posting Celestine:




Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
Super cool, is that a sister of battle or something? I don't play warhams

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang
Yeah she's from the Sisters of Battle army. She's a living saint.

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
Mind sharing how/what paints you used for your gold? I love that beaten gold look but have never really been able to replicate. Mine always comes out looks super metallic flakey and not good

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

Razzled posted:

Mind sharing how/what paints you used for your gold? I love that beaten gold look but have never really been able to replicate. Mine always comes out looks super metallic flakey and not good

Sure thing! Gold recipe was retributor armour basecoat, thinned reikland fleshshade gloss all over, then the same but not thinned into all the deepest recesses. Then a layer of auric armour gold over all avoiding the recesses, then liberator gold edge highlights, and finally stormhost silver edge highlights on the most prominent edges and corners.

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

That all looks amazing, I'm super jealous of your tank weathering and the wood-grain on those trees and fences.

Thanks man! It's pretty much all washes and drybrushes, with the use of some technical paints to get the goop in the treads. I painted up those fences and walls in a day while I was mostly on calls at work.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

SRM posted:

Thanks man! It's pretty much all washes and drybrushes, with the use of some technical paints to get the goop in the treads. I painted up those fences and walls in a day while I was mostly on calls at work.

You're a goddamn machine.

dr_ether
May 31, 2013

Finished Kingdom Death Lonely Tree.





Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

dr_ether posted:

Finished Kingdom Death Lonely Tree.







I love how a lot of KD miniatures are seemingly normal, mundane things at first glance - Until you take all the detail in, and you realize it's super hosed up. This one, and the gazelle-thing are particularly good.

theroachman
Sep 1, 2006

You're never fully dressed without a smile...

Geisladisk posted:

I love how a lot of KD miniatures are seemingly normal, mundane things at first glance - Until you take all the detail in, and you realize it's super hosed up. This one, and the gazelle-thing are particularly good.

Hmmm nice tree. There's some skulls in there, cool. Those branches look weird, they're like... insect legs or something, ewww. Wow it's on a pile of porcelain heads, weird. OH GOD THE HANDS, THE HANDS :gonk:

theroachman fucked around with this message at 09:19 on Jan 20, 2017

Hamshot
Feb 1, 2006
Fun Shoe
Those leaves, those are tongues right?

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Love all the Kingdom Death stuff, but I really can't stand how much "fan service" they do with most of their female models. Makes me just not want to buy any of their stuff :(

SRM
Jul 10, 2009

~*FeElIn' AweS0mE*~

Sab669 posted:

Love all the Kingdom Death stuff, but I really can't stand how much "fan service" they do with most of their female models. Makes me just not want to buy any of their stuff :(

That's my problem too. I like the Dark Souls/Berserk looking stuff, but they lose me with the pregnant dick demons and rape victim models.

dr_ether
May 31, 2013

Sab669 posted:

Love all the Kingdom Death stuff, but I really can't stand how much "fan service" they do with most of their female models. Makes me just not want to buy any of their stuff :(

Fortunately that is only the pinup models. The actual game models of survivors are in proper armour. And the pregnant dick monster is not even part of the game. As with most games you can choose not to buy the stuff you don't like. At least, unlike a vast amount of games, survivor models come in equal amounts of men and women and in game play operate the same. So there is proper diversity present in that form.

I will be posting photos next week of survivors I have painted from the armour White Lion, and Screaming Antelope armour kits, and some other things I have never posted to give a full range of examples.

dr_ether fucked around with this message at 19:18 on Jan 20, 2017

siggy2021
Mar 8, 2010
Finished painting my first pewter miniature last night.



It's atrocious compared to some of the poo poo I see, but I really like the way that it came out and when my players see him hit the table they will probably poo poo themselves. I just have to seal it, which I see most people saying to do with testors dullcote/glosscote. I'm assuming you should use the spray kind, but are there advantages to the paint on type?

I found the couple of bones miniatures I've painted before way easier overall, but they lack the detail these pewter ones have by miles. I've got a few more to do and I can't wait to finish them.

mango sentinel
Jan 5, 2001

by sebmojo

SRM posted:

That's my problem too. I like the Dark Souls/Berserk looking stuff, but they lose me with the pregnant dick demons and rape victim models.

So you mean the Berserk looking stuff?

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
Part of the Berserk storyline is just Guts murdering tons of normal humans! A small part...

TheFinalTuba
May 3, 2016

A moment of silence for a fallen shot glass :pray:

But honestly, nice stuff. Yeah the bones have some benefits, but detail is always nice to have. Keep it up!

Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

siggy2021 posted:

Finished painting my first pewter miniature last night.



It's atrocious compared to some of the poo poo I see, but I really like the way that it came out and when my players see him hit the table they will probably poo poo themselves. I just have to seal it, which I see most people saying to do with testors dullcote/glosscote. I'm assuming you should use the spray kind, but are there advantages to the paint on type?

I found the couple of bones miniatures I've painted before way easier overall, but they lack the detail these pewter ones have by miles. I've got a few more to do and I can't wait to finish them.

If you really want to keep that poo poo super safe, hit it with a coat or two of gloss, then a coat of matte. Gloss varnishes tend to be more actual varnish and thus are more of a protective layer, whereas matte varnishes need to have an additive to get it matte. As such, they end up thinning the actual varnish part of it to be less than ideal for any sort of long-term protection. I've used Krylon Gloss spray varnish with no ill effects, but Testor's Dullcote is constantly recommended as the matte varnish of choice, mostly because of being a lacquer varnish (and thus more resistant to wear and tear than an acrylic varnish). The cans are small, but if you use it as I recommend (i.e. the final coat after gloss varnishing), it'll last you a good amount of models.

A very important thing to note, on top of the usual spray-can warnings, is to let each coat fully cure before applying the next. It varies from brand to brand, but you should be looking at least 24 hours, if not longer, just to be 100% sure. If it's not fully dry and cured, the next spray coat will reactivate anything that hasn't cured, and often leads to clouding issues. Just take it slow, because you just spent however loving long on the model, and it'd suck to get impatient at the end and just gently caress it right up.

Neurolimal
Nov 3, 2012
Finished my mouslings; nothing impressive or anything, but I find them super cute and want to show them off :3:



I've also come to the realization that, while I'm mediocre both ways, I seem to be way less terrible painting backs than fronts :v:



In my defense, the front bones on the gnoll lass have like, no detail or prominent shape, and the breasts had weird squares I couldn't make heads or tails (:v:) of. It was a struggle figuring out what most of the front even was!

Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jan 21, 2017

thespaceinvader
Mar 30, 2011

The slightest touch from a Gol-Shogeg will result in Instant Death!

Phi230 posted:

That model looks so dumb

It looks even dumber when you turn it to the correct angle to realise that it's only barely possible for the guy to see over his stupid pauldron and sight on the head of his arrow...

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Injuryprone
Sep 26, 2007

Speak up, there's something in my ear.

Drake_263 posted:


-Standard brush, or what GW calls a Medium Layer. This is your catchall brush, thick enough to hold a good amount of paint, thin enough to do most basic painting things with. This is the AK-47 of basic painting, it might not be great for everything but it'll get the job done in a pinch. If you can only get one brush, get one of these. For non-GW lines, I like the Army Painter Regiment and/or Character brushes for this work - Regiment is a little bigger, Character smaller but more precise.
-A wash brush. GW's Medium Shade brush is a good size for your needs. A wash brush is big and soft and can hold lots of fluid while letting you spread it smoothly and evenly - exactly what you need for all those shades I mentioned earlier. This can honestly be almost any largish, soft brush, but a GW wash brush and Army Painter Regiment brushes are probably the best suited for this.
-A drybrush. This is useful for painting things like armor, stone, or metal - the GW 'small' drybrush should do fine for you. A drybrush is shorter, thicker, with more rigid bristles, and is used for dryubrush techniques; basically you get a little bit of paint on the brush, wipe most of the paint off on cloth or paper until the brush is almost dry, then rub the nearly-dry brush over the area. The idea is that paint only takes on the raised edges and details on the mini - it's perfect for quickly picking up textures like stone, metal, fur and armor. You'll mostly want this the swords Nurgle critters carry, along with picking out details on base materials like stone and dirt. Technically you can use any brush as a drybrush but it's going to get beat the hell up so don't get one of those super duper expensive brushes made out of weasel nutsack hair or whatever. Grab a dedicated drybrushing brush or use an old, worn-out brush you're not particularly fond of.
-A detail brush, like a GW Small Layer brush or a Detail brush from Army Painter. This is a small, pointy, high-precision brush you'll use for detail work like line highlighting, picking out eyes, pustules and teeth, and whatever. The Army Painter Character brush is also pretty okay at this, which makes it one of my favorite catchall brushes.


So I can get away with just using the Army Painter Regiment, Character, and a rando drybrush then? Sweet.

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